42083 Bugatti Chiron - MODs and Improvements

[SheldonF]

Agreed. I wish there was a nice place to keep the key. That being said, since it's simple axle rotation it should be easy to move that rotation to the interior. I bought mine and will begin build in about 4 hours when I'm home. 

[Victor Imaginator]

Making similar looking (or at least similar sized) W16 driven by single crankshaft will be good improvement. Even replacing W16 with simple V8 looks more technically correct for me. At least for technic set... Triple crankshaft... Unbelievable!

[Vectormatic]

2 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

Going by the available images, my impression is that the 24t gears in the W16-engine sit too tight. LDD confirms this. I think this will give a lot of friction to the engine and could explain the 24t slip gear between engine and DNR.

 

Wow, that would be amazingly poor design, not only is the tri-crank rather ridiculous, the setup also causes excessive friction?

 

Honestly, With the amount of issues in the porsche you'd expect lego to take things seriously the second time around, and yet we are faced with similar issues, sagging suspension, too much driveline friction, very low feature count on a 3600 part set...

[Appie]

2 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

Going by the available images, my impression is that the 24t gears in the W16-engine sit too tight. LDD confirms this. I think this will give a lot of friction to the engine and could explain the 24t slip gear between engine and DNR.

(image)

So that's where they put the 24T white clutch gear eh? Just between the fake engine and the DNR? I am glad it isn't in the gearbox, but this still feels kind of weird.

[Erik Leppen]

2 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

Going by the available images, my impression is that the 24t gears in the W16-engine sit too tight. LDD confirms this. I think this will give a lot of friction to the engine and could explain the 24t slip gear between engine and DNR.

 

The 24t gears should be an exact  fit, if this is the geometry used. The angles in the engine block piece are the same as in the 4x6 bent liftarms, which implies that the distance between the axles is exactly 3 studs. (One could imagine a 3x3 T beam placed parallel to the existing one, moved 3 studs to the top, so the that the "bottom" hole of the T is the upper crankshaft. This should be an exact fit.)

If the gears are too tight, I would say it's a problem in the parts, not in the design. Because the design seems fine.

[Paul Boratko]

2 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

Going by the available images, my impression is that the 24t gears in the W16-engine sit too tight. LDD confirms this. I think this will give a lot of friction to the engine and could explain the 24t slip gear between engine and DNR.

 

These are the types of things that only experienced Technic builders will understand and not be seen in many reviews... It's not that it's "Too tight" it is just a lot of extra friction in general...

Any time that you add a fake engine, you are also adding extra friction that can possibly make your gearbox skip... This 16 cylinder engine has quite a bit of extra friction in it...

Edited June 1, 2018 by Paul Boratko

[Victor Imaginator]

Not the best idea, but this will fit in given size somehow)

P.s. No, it will not fit, but it's more technically correct as i think. I just need find better solution.

Edited June 1, 2018 by Victor Imaginator
thinking twice ;)

[Didumos69]

56 minutes ago, Erik Leppen said:

The 24t gears should be an exact  fit, if this is the geometry used. The angles in the engine block piece are the same as in the 4x6 bent liftarms, which implies that the distance between the axles is exactly 3 studs. (One could imagine a 3x3 T beam placed parallel to the existing one, moved 3 studs to the top, so the that the "bottom" hole of the T is the upper crankshaft. This should be an exact fit.)

If the gears are too tight, I would say it's a problem in the parts, not in the design. Because the design seems fine.

You are quite right @Erik Leppen. I should have been able to draw the same conclusion.

54 minutes ago, Paul Boratko said:

These are the types of things that only experienced Technic builders will understand and not be seen in many reviews... It's not that it's "Too tight" it is just a lot of extra friction in general...

Any time that you add a fake engine, you are also adding extra friction that can possibly make your gearbox skip... This 16 cylinder engine has quite a bit of extra friction in it...

Yes, moving 3 crankshafts and 16 pistons and having 3 gears meshing, all in one engine, will give a lot of friction. That might still be the reason for the white slip gear between engine and DNR.

Edited June 1, 2018 by Didumos69

[Permo]

In a video I saw the break callipers moving ?

Are these brakes functional ? ... if not, could they be made functional ?

 

[zux]

2 hours ago, Permo said:

In a video I saw the break callipers moving ?

Are these brakes functional ? ... if not, could they be made functional ?

 

Brakes are fake.

[Paknaloid]

7 hours ago, Bartybum said:

 

@Didumos69 I want to see you put in your version of the W16.

 

+1

my next highest priority request is sturdier doors, with locking mechanism. 

[Paknaloid]

Would it be worth spray-painting the front grille grey tube and side c grey tubes silver, or do you think that’d be sacrilege and/or inaccurate?

[Aman]

8 hours ago, tripletschiee said:

In real life the Chiron needs a separate key to reach his top-speed.

That was taken over by the designer creating this smal grey key, that makes the spoiler/air-break lift up and down.

I think it is a big pitty, that it cannot be placed somewhere in the car..

So I would try to find a place to store it.

Apparently that key thing goes in the front storage area. 

[Bublehead]

If so I want to know where? There is no room at the inn I am afraid.

Edited June 2, 2018 by Bublehead
Typo

[Ngoc Nguyen]

I'd like to see a mod in which the line in the bottom of the door is made of the same pipe / hose / tube with the big C curve. 

It kinda grinds my gear to see such a magnificent curve made of one thing in the body and another in the door +.+

Also I'd like to see a stopper for the gear shifting. It's curious how it would be made too. The stopper in the Porsche only allows the knob to rotate 270 degrees instead of a full revolution. If that is to be replicated here, we would need to make an axle rotate 270/8 degrees for each gear I guess?

Edited June 2, 2018 by Ngoc Nguyen

[DugaldIC]

Lox and I just finished building and there isn't any concerns with friction in the W16. It's surprisingly smooth... quite friction less, despite what LDD tells you. My only real issue is the unnecessary/unrealistic 3 drive shafts. Definitely a lot of minor bodywork tweaks could be done, but not much is possible with given pieces. HOG steering would be great, it seems like there might be a straight forward solution directly below the dash and bring it up through. I can also confirm that the front suspension, despite dual shocks is weak and needs adjustment. Ackerman steering might be difficult due to the steering assembly at the front and not the rear of the front axle. Besides all of that though I much prefer this build to the porsche. It's really well thought out and there were a few times where I actually stopped for a second and went ohhhh that's actually pretty clever. Soo looks like they've (AKA TLG) have definitely improved since the release of the Porsche. Also I'm super happy about the new clutch gear and gear selector.... It will make gearboxes so much more simplistic and compact! 

Oh and also due to the 20 tooth blue clutch gear and the 24 tooth gear not meshing properly in the gearbox, Motorizing this set and maintaining the gearbox is probably not functional. Not to mention I feel like the rear drive axles being out of line with the control arms/friction pins is a huge weakpoint?! Anyways just my two cents from a day one build. Hopefully this all helps.

Edited June 2, 2018 by DugaldIC

[ShowsOn]

If the W16 engine was made on a smaller scale, e.g. like the Mack Anthem engine, could it have more realistic details, only a single crank shaft, and save space that could be used to add other functions?

[Omikron]

16 hours ago, Aventador2004 said:

The real wing does:

Up flat, up turned, returns to bottom horizontal, then up.

It is 100% correct.

 

Yeah except that under the wheel huge crank activation part

Edited June 2, 2018 by Omikron

[Ldon13]

On 6/2/2018 at 10:05 AM, Aman said:

Apparently that key thing goes in the front storage area. 

 

On 6/2/2018 at 10:45 AM, Bublehead said:

If so I want to know where? There is no room at the inn I am afraid.

The speed key is stored between the drivers seat and the door in the real Bugatti, I haven’t looked at much photos of the drivetrain but it would be nice to relocate the speed key slot to where it is in the real Bugatti instead of under the back wheel. 

Right hand conversion is on my todo list  (Already done on the Porsche)

 

 

Edited July 3, 2018 by Ldon13

[technic_addict]

1 hour ago, DugaldIC said:

Lox and I just finished building and there isn't any concerns with friction in the W16. It's surprisingly smooth... quite friction less, despite what LDD tells you. My only real issue is the unnecessary/unrealistic 3 drive shafts. Definitely a lot of minor bodywork tweaks could be done, but not much is possible with given pieces. HOG steering would be great, it seems like there might be a straight forward solution directly below the dash and bring it up through. I can also confirm that the front suspension, despite dual shocks is weak and needs adjustment. Ackerman steering might be difficult due to the steering assembly at the front and not the rear of the front axle. Besides all of that though I much prefer this build to the porsche. It's really well thought out and there were a few times where I actually stopped for a second and went ohhhh that's actually pretty clever. Soo looks like they've (AKA TLG) have definitely improved since the release of the Porsche. Also I'm super happy about the new clutch gear and gear selector.... It will make gearboxes so much more simplistic and compact! 

Oh and also due to the 20 tooth blue clutch gear and the 24 tooth gear not meshing properly in the gearbox, Motorizing this set and maintaining the gearbox is probably not functional. Not to mention I feel like the rear drive axles being out of line with the control arms/friction pins is a huge weakpoint?! Anyways just my two cents from a day one build. Hopefully this all helps.

Thanks for your input Dugald.  Do you believe the front suspension is a geometry issue or is two hard springs / side not enough?

[Kumbbl]

37 minutes ago, technic_addict said:

Thanks for your input Dugald.  Do you believe the front suspension is a geometry issue or is two hard springs / side not enough?

With reasonable geometry and not too much friction 2 hard shocks per wheel are in each and every case enough for such a car... if not then there is a design fault 

Edited June 2, 2018 by Kumbbl

[Didumos69]

@DugaldIC, thanks for your report! It's more valuable to me than all review videos I've seen sofar. One question. What is the white slip gear for?

[chox]

My first mod.

 

[Seasider]

Hi everyone,

You do all realise that the Chiron is only available in LHD.

also the engine is meant to be exposed, it doesn’t have a glass cover like a Ferrari or a Lambo 

as to MODs, I don’t care about HOG as it’s not a play model, but a fix to the potentially sagging suspension and a better W16 option would be nice.

i think I’ll end up keeping mine stock though

[Musikfreak]

@Didumos69: If I'm also allowed to answer:

It's to prevent gears breaking due to the friction of the engine. It's actually located directly before the engine.

The gearbox is always running in the selected gear, but it's output is only connected to the W16 when drive is selected. If Reverse is selected the whole box is circumevented and a constant ratio is going to the engine.

The thing I found so far (currently I have a "rolling chassis" shortly after the marriage) in my build:

The gear change works nicely most of the time. When the engine is disconnected the gearbox has very little resistance. When the engine is connected however, the resistance can get so high, that the slip gear actually engages and the engine does not move. There is also a huge backlash in a few gears. You would have to push the car almost a meter after a gear change to get the engine to move.

The sequence actually looks ok to me. I have not measured it precisely, but I see a constant change in speed until you reach the big jump from first to last gear.

 

I'm currently trying to optimise the performance. The engine itself is running smoothly but I guess the sheer amount of gears and clutches (the power has to go through both clutches at any time) is causing this behaviour. I have to say that I'm very diligent when building my models and check every bit while building for minimum friction and so on (e.g. my porsche was running completely smooth after build) but still have problems here. The marriage process, while cool considering how the real car is made, is not helping this. Because the way it's build it's hard to actually check all the functions beforehand and then once it's all together it's already hard to reach the parts in the center. However even with these limitations I'm quite impressed with gearbox and it's density.

Edited June 2, 2018 by Musikfreak