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Found 23 results

  1. Hi everyone. As soon as I got the Buwizz I wanted to build a very powerfull, yet model powered by RC motors. At first i wanted to build a trophy truck which uses Claas's wheels, but I decided to put that project on halt, because I got a better inspiration. As everyone knows Tesla makes fully electric cars packed with all kinds of features and gadgets. I want to do the same, integrating the following features: All wheel drive with 6 RC motors (2 front and 4 in the rear) - I learned from my previous record breaking Buwizz powered RWD driven model that when it comes to braking you need front wheel drive too for motors to act as brakes. Spring supported pneumatic suspension - A combination of pneumatic and normal spring suspension which allows the ride height to be set at an optimum level to keep the drive axles as straight as possible, therebye removing any vibrations or losses Remoe controlled compressor - Using Sbrick order to adjust the suspension system of the model Detailed compact double wishbone suspension - Using the 5L suspension arms, new hubs and wheels I was able to make driven, steered suspesnion with brake calipers Working lights and blinkers - Using Sbrick I plan to make all the lights including blinkers work Motorized doors and trunk - This way I can remotely open the doors and trunk Central entertainment system - In my case I want to stick the speed computer in the center console to measure the speed of the model *Crash avodiance system - if I will be able to get an Sbrick plus and a couple of WeDo proximity sensors I can come up with an automatic steering and braking system for the model Detailed exterior and interrior - As name suggest the model is planned to be made in 1:8 scale with as much deatil as possible. And lastly performance - Since I plan to use a total of 6RC motors driving the Porshe wheels with 1:1 ratio from the outermost motor output, i expect the model even though it will be probably around 3kg heavy to perform very good. Special attention was given to the steering system in order to keep it as stiff as possible. I hope to see a top speed of 15 km/h I already started working on the front axle, I will post the picture tomorrow. Meanwhile here is the prototype made in LDD As you can see on one side of the suspension wishbones I am using a normal spring, while the other side uses a small pneumatic cylinder. Suspension geometry is set in such way the springs and cylinders end up as far away from the hub as possbile, since Porsche's wheels are just so deep. Also notice the 1x4 half width liftarms used to support the springs. I will post photographs of the WIP as I go along. Wish me luck
  2. I wanted to build something special for the rebrick LEGO Technic BMW motorcycle competition. The first idea I got was to try to make hubless wheels. After trying several wheel sizes approaches and techniques I decided to use the old 8880 soft tyres with a combiantion of 8 135 degree connectors and a nunch of smaller internal wheels: In order to make the bike look low and sleek I decided to ditch the normal handlebar steering system for a multi-link one, which gave the bike its distinctive front shape: Belly photo of the multilink steering system - notice the two 6L steering links which allow for suspension movement: Of course a bike like this also needs suspension which is hidden in the frame: And finally the bike was covered finished in blue trim, with BMW color detail in the front: And of course I just had to include the special 3L beam found in this year's sets: And here's a video to finish it all up: In the end of the day I am very proud of myself for building something out of the box, I learned how to make smoothly rotating hubless wheels and I managed to build something trully futuristic with all the weird angles, shapes and functions. If anyone is interested in rebuilding this beauty, there is also an LXF file of the model without the tyres here: BMW U2-P1A
  3. Hi! Two years ago, I did a motorizable cherry picker for a contest on the french forum TechLUG. So, I used the comments I had, and I decided to : - Use a more little scale - Better proportions - I did a better cab. In the first MOC, it was too heavy because of the battery box inside it. - The first cherry picker was motorizable by a M motor ; this one is only motorized, more simple and efficient. To summararise : Better proportions (I hope ^^) Only motorized I use inverted gearboxes for : - Outriggers - Arm - Turn table And the manual functions : - The steering (of course) - Extension of the arm So, here's the result: The simplest function is the steering. But there is the L motor over it. So, I used three 16t gears to turn the wheels directly by their axle of rotation. And now, the gearbox. It's an inverted gearbox : the "out gears" turn in the opposite sense. So, when you invert the position of the driving ring, you invert the rotation of a function. Here are screenshots: The outriggers can up the truck: the wheels don't touch the floor. To finish, the arm. It has a triple deformable quadrilateral. I needed so much time to do it, but it's nice to see in action. And the video :
  4. This engine is modeled after the GE 44 ton switcher locomotive. Why 44 tons, you may ask? I give you the answer from the Wikipedia article on this loco type: This locomotive's specific 44-short ton weight was directly related to one of the efficiencies the new diesel locomotives offered compared to their steam counterparts: reduced labor intensity. In the 1940s, the steam to diesel transition was in its infancy in North America, and railroad unions were trying to protect the locomotive fireman jobs that were redundant with diesel units. One measure taken to this end was the 1937 so-called "90,000 Pound Rule" :[citation needed] a stipulation that locomotives weighing 90,000 pounds (41,000 kg) – 45 short tons – or more required a fireman in addition to an engineer on common carrier railroads. Industrial and military railroads had no such stipulation. The 44-ton locomotive was born to skirt this requirement. The loco is bi-directional, and doesn't have much to differentiate between the "front" or "rear" expect for the air horn and exhaust stack on one end in real life. My LEGO model lacks these, so it's only way to tell which is front is by the headlights: clear for front, red for rear. I am going to name this loco WFP number 7007. (WFP stands for Wabash Frisco & Pacific, which is the name of a 12 inch gauge ride-on railway in St. Louis, MO.) They don't have a real 44 toner there, but do have a Fairbanks Morse H10-44 (number 704) in the same color scheme, so I made this engine as a companion to the H10-44. In the spoiler tag below, you will find a real life picture of a 44-toner loco. (I got the picture from railpictures.net, It is NOT mine!) Just for comparison purposes, here is the H10-44 I was talking about. NOTE: The H10-44 is NOT included in the GE 44-ton's LDD file! The (updated) LDD file for the GE loco is available here. Build updated 3-14-17 with a better 44 ton GE unit, courtesy of Henry Durand over on Facebook's LEGO Train Fan Club. Thanks Henry! Comments, Questions, suggestions and complaints are always welcome!
  5. After some conversation in another thread I realized I haven't posted any of my more recent builds on here, including one of my boxcab electric locomotives. I figured I would put some details about both of my New Haven electric locomotives, since both fit this category. Many of you may have seen these on Flickr or at shows but I presume that many of you haven't seen them yet, though I could be wrong. First up is the newest one, my New York, New Haven & Hartford Railroad (NYNH&H) EF-1: The EF-1 class was built in 1912 by Baldwin-Westinghouse and remained in service until 1957 (outlasting their "successors," the EF-2's by 9 years). The were frequently used on the New York Connecting Railroad (a joint venture to connect the New Haven and Pennsylvania Railroads) hauling freight from New England to the Long Island Rail Road's transfer bridges in Brooklyn, NY. Due to the grades on this route they were typically operated in triple, and I've even seen a photo of four of them hauling a long freight over the Hell Gate Bridge. The model is equipped with two PF train motors which power the four large drivers, and Brickstuff lights in the main headlight and four front marker lights. Contrary to everything I've read on here, I've had no problems using large drivers on a PF train motor (well, none yet). My plan is to build freight cars until this can no longer haul any more, then build a second and repeat until I have three of them. My second (well, first) boxcab electric is my NYNH&H EP-3: The EP-3 class was built by General Electric in 1931, and featured both pantographs and third rail shoes so they could run into either Grand Central Terminal or Pennsylvania Station in New York. The EP-3s performed so well that the Pennsylvania railroad borrowed three of them for tests that resulted in the design of the world famous GG1. As with my EF-1 this uses two PF train motors powering eight of the large drivers, and was able to keep considerable speed at Brickworld this past summer with five heavy passenger cars in tow: New Haven Meet at Brickworld Chicago Also I'm working on a NYNH&H EP-2, which is still very much of a WIP: Cheers!
  6. Confession: I have been wanting to build a Bipolar for a long time, about four years. Longer than the Daylight or my Aerotrain models have been around, even on my computer, and longer than most of my 80+ strong fleet. Now, after years of waiting and thinking, designing and red developing: it is here! But first, here is what it's based on: The Real life inspiration: (Photo from Wikipedia) Real life inspiration: From 1919 to 1962, the Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific Railroad (known as the Milwaukee Road) had these five General Electric-made behemoths pulling trains under the wires from Chicago to Seattle. They were called the Bipolar's for each of the locomotive's 12 motors had only two field poles, mounted directly to the locomotive frame beside the axle. The motor armature was mounted directly on the axle, providing an entirely gear-less design. These locos were so powerful they could out-pull modern steam locos, and what used to take two steamers took just one bipolar. However, after a disastrous 1953 rebuilding by the railroad's company shops (who had no clue how to work on a electric loco) the engines were prone to failures and even fire. And so, in 1962, four of them were scrapped with the lone survivor, numbered E-2, towed to the Museum of Transportation in St. Louis Missouri, where it has sat silent even since. LEGO Model: This model was inspired by a 1999 version of the engine built by user legosteveb. I recreated the actual orange, red and black color scheme used on the loco when it emerged from that 1953 modernization program, but it was too expensive. So, after looking around I decided to use the paint scheme the Milwaukee Road used when the engine was donated. This yellow and red scheme was inspired by the Union Pacific and was adopted very late in the engine's career (mid-50's). Also, the number board in front (and rear) should say "E2" in printed 1 x 1 tiles. The loco is split in three sections as per the original engine. The front and rear section can pivot slightly to make the engine go around curves. The wheels are jointed to the frame at the three wheel segments, with a center section all by itself. The swinging three axle design is by Anthony Sava. Here is Steve's original model from 1999. ...and here is my ldd file: LDD file for the electric loco Comments, Questions and complaints welcome! EDITED 10/16/16: Added new pictures and updated ldd file to the main post.
  7. Hi everyone. This is my version of the SBB CE 6/8 Electric Locomotive, called the Swiss Crocodile. I try to represent it as much realistic and detailed as i can. By now it's only a digital project. I hope i can build it really in future. It is also a Lego Ideas project, so if you really like it you can support following the link. https://ideas.lego.com/projects/97696 Your support on this project and your comments would be greatly appreciated. Thanks to all.
  8. The GG-1 was a class of electric locomotives built for the Pennsylvania Railroad (PRR) for use in the northeastern United States. 139 GG-1s were constructed by General Electric and PRR's Altoona Works from 1934 to 1943, although mine is used by Brick Railway Systems on the New York - Chicago route. The real GG-1"s never traveled that far west in service, due to the overhead wires ending at Harrisburg, Pennsylvania. The GG-1's served under the PRR, then Penn Central, and onto Conrail and Amtrak, until finally a few went to New Jersey Transit, with some of these units served from 1935 on the PRR to to retiring with NJ transit in 1983. The model seen here is painted in this fictional Brick Railway Systems blue and red color scheme. This means the engine will be pulling some stretched 1980's style passenger car painted like the ones in sets 7715 / 7718. Unlike my previous model of a GG-1, this one has no interior details. The engine features moving panto-graphs for picking up (imaginary) electricity from the overhead wires. They are both in the raised position here, though normally the one opposite the direction of travel would be used. The exception to this was if the rear panto-graph was knocked off or damaged by overhanging debris, which the engine would then have it's lead panto-graph raised in order to limp the the repair shop. The loco features Anthony Sava's sliding middle axle design. This means the middle axle out of the three on the bogie closest to the middle of the loco slide laterally back and forth to allow the engine over switches and curves that would be normally to tight to maneuver. These special bogies are used twice of course: one for each half of the loco. The two outer wheels closest to each end are connected to the inner bogies via cup-and-ball parts. This allows them to swing freely and not bind up while still representing the right amount of wheels for a GG-1 loco. The coaches this engine will pull are inspired by train sets 7715 / 7718 from the 4.5 Volt era in the early to mid 1980's. The doors should be printed like these: http://alpha.brickli...Color=5#T=C&C=5 and http://alpha.brickli...e?P=4182p05#T=C I already have 75% of the parts for this model, including all but one door. Here is the LDD file for the engine by itself: http://www.moc-pages...1461783587m.lxf ...and here is one with the coaches and engine: http://www.moc-pages...1461783797m.lxf According to a Facebook comment made to my post on the LEGO Train Fan Club page, the engine I built look similar to this bi-centennial Conrail-era unit: Comments, complaints and questions are always welcome! (This page will be revised again when the cars are built In Real Life.) Recently, I discovered this neat website on the GG-1's, called the GG-1 homepage, which was last updated in 2002. It features some cool stuff and hard to find info though so here is the link: http://www.spikesys.com/GG1/
  9. Hi train lovers. I open this topic to present to You and promote my Italian locomotive E326. Italian Locomotive Class E326 by Cristiano Grassi, su Flickr More than one year ago I launched it on Lego Ideas (here is the link if You want to support the project https://ideas.lego.com/projects/134535) as a digital project. It ends its first year with 279 supports. Bad result. But during this year I was ordering the parts from Bricklink to build the locomotive. So I decided to relaunch the project. It takes 252 supports in 15 days. A better start. I build it with some changes because some parts are very difficult to find and some don't exist in the colors that I need. And yes, I've Painted the Windows because I want this type on the locomotive. Lego Ideas allows submitting existing parts in new colors. I normally don't paint Lego. (And this is an opportunity to have them in reddish brown) My english is not good, so here are some photos.. Italian Locomotive Class E326 by Cristiano Grassi, su Flickr Italian Locomotive Class E326 by Cristiano Grassi, su Flickr Italian Locomotive Class E326 by Cristiano Grassi, su Flickr Italian Locomotive Class E326 by Cristiano Grassi, su Flickr Italian Locomotive Class E326 by Cristiano Grassi, su Flickr Italian Locomotive Class E326 by Cristiano Grassi, su Flickr Italian Locomotive Class E326 by Cristiano Grassi, su Flickr The locomotive is made with 670 parts. It runs good on curves, but it's not motorized. I know I'm a beginner with trains and surely not an expert like the most on this forum, but I've try to do my best here. And I know Ideas probably will never produce a locomotive, but many supports can encourage Lego to produce new locomotives. You can see complete photo gallery here https://www.flickr.c...s/vedosololego/ I hope You like and support this and my other projects on Ideas. Thanks
  10. After a few years off from MOC building I can finally present another creation. This is one complete set of the new 4000 class commuter trains used in Adelaide, South Australia. The A unit is powered by one power functions train motor. LEGO A-City 4000 Class EMU MOC by Lego Engineer, on Flickr The 4000 class are the latest addition to Adelaide's commuter rail system. They are also the first electric trains on the network. Introduced in 2014, each one is comprised of three-car semi-permanently coupled sets. A-City 4000 Class EMU by Lego Engineer, on Flickr A-City 4000 Class EMU by Lego Engineer, on Flickr
  11. Hello everyone! It's me again and I'm coming with a new project :) Great Ball Contraption has been always fascinating to me. And few weeks ago I decided to start building my own layout. In this topic I will be showing you the progress on my GBC. Here is the first module - the elevator: Watch the video to see how it works: I'm now working on another module with NXT :)
  12. This is a tutorial detailing how to modify a LEGO 9V train motor so that it may be powered independently of the track. This effort is part of a larger project inspired by Thorsten Benter’s article in Railbricks Issue 7 titled “PF and 9V Trains: The Best of Both Worlds”. Step 1) Open the 9V motor. This has been covered elsewhere, so it should suffice to say you carefully remove the 12 tabs holding the bottom cover on with an xacto blade or something similar. There is enough friction to hold the bottom cover in place later even without the tabs. Step 2) Remove all internal parts. Ignore the fact that I took this photo after completing step 3. Step 3) Use a rotary tool with a cutoff disk to bisect the metal strips in the top of the motor enclosure. These strips are exposed in the top studs, and we will later use them to pull power from the track and apply power to the motor. Very important: Be sure to apply NO PRESSURE when using the rotary tool. Instead, just lightly touch the spinning cutoff disk against the metal strip, and let the tool do the work. It will take some time, so be patient and careful. If you apply pressure, the metal strips will heat up and deform the plastic. If the plastic deforms, it will be impossible to interface with LEGO bricks and PCB adapters (like the one in the upper-right corner of the picture). Keep it light and easy. You will thank yourself later when you haven’t ruined your motor’s plastic housing. Step 4) Desolder the metal pieces from the electric motor. I don’t have a picture of this exact step because I used the electric motor from a Power Functions train motor. If replacing the 9V motor with a Power Functions motor, open up the PF train motor using a T6 bit, remove the electric motor, and desolder it from the wires. Step 5) Solder a short length of wire to each tab on the electric motor (do this outside the housing to avoid accidently melting it). I used 32 gauge DCC decoder wire, but you can use whatever you have that will fit inside the motor. Reassemble the motor with exception of the wheels and the bottom cover. Step 6) Attach the wires to the outermost halves of the metal strips; the innermost halves are connected to the wheels through the wipers. I used a silver epoxy for this. I chose silver epoxy for two reasons: 1) I didn’t want to risk melting the studs by soldering the wires to the metal strips, and 2) silver epoxy has a lower resistance than graphite epoxy. Step 7) Reinstall the wheels and make sure everything is running smoothly. This would also be a good time to lubricate the gears if you want to. Make sure you don’t get any lubricant on the electrical parts! Press the bottom cover onto what remains of the tabs, and you’re done! If you ever want to run the motor directly from track power, simply use a PCB adapter with a loopback connector or connect a LEGO wire (9V or light gray end of PF). This is what a PCB adapter looks like when installed on the motor. (I’ve updated the design since taking the previous photo.) And here is a connector leading up to the electronics (currently just a Power Functions battery box, soon to include a Bluetooth receiver) in my Horizon Express. The connector plugs into the PCB adapter. The PCB adapter is attached to the electrical studs on the motor. And the motor is pinned to the bottom plate of the locomotive. Now I can charge the battery in my train without taking it off the track, run it indefinitely on a mixed metal and plastic layout, and have non-line-of-sight control when I add the Bluetooth receiver. It really is the best of both worlds!
  13. A couple of weeks ago, I was browsing eBay and noticed several knock off Lego trains by a company called Ausini, some with wagons or coachs very clearly based on old Lego designs, some with random new design coachs, all with locomotives that are different to existing Lego designs. One in particular actually looked rather good, and being very cheap (£25 inc postage), I thought why not? I received the set, and was happy to see that, while the bricks were far from Lego quality, they were more than good enough to blend in with proper Lego, and that the set was a fun build. It wasn't, however, perfect. The main problems were the asymmetrical cabs, naff under loco detail, stunted pantagraphs, doors that were too far inset and lack of motive power. I briefly mulled over just using what I had, but I knew I'd need a lot more of certain green and blue bits, and that proper Lego versions would stand out for not being the same shade. So, I decided to buy a second set (irritatingly, it had gone up £5... but still a bargain, considering I was getting another couple of wagons too, oddly enough, I looked after I ordered, and sure enough, it had gone up again by £5... strange strategy by the seller). I already had most of the general Lego pieces I needed to add, and the PF battery box and receiver, but needed a couple of motor bogies (which I duly ordered). Before. Cheating! I like my locos to have 2 motors because I like big heavy trains. Unfortunately, I have yet to pluck up the courage to open up the motors and reverse the polarity, so have generally had to resort to having one end riding on it's wire, causing the loco to wobble at speed. I decided to try something different... I cheated! I left a gap in the floor of the slight overhang the cab is built on at one end, and cut a bit of plastic off of the middle of the end of the (not-Lego) trainplate, to allow the wire to pass into the loco without anything resting on it. Other than that, the construction was a fun and easy process that happily took up an otherwise rather useless morning. The Finished Loco. Notice the use of dark transparent studs to indicate lights that aren't lit, both on the cab ends, and next to the currently not in use pantagraph. I also needed to come up with a way to fit in the sensor and the on button into the roof, which took some modifying of the original design (a shame because I liked it). I fashioned a free floating block of Lego with the round and rounded upside down plate at the bottom to act as the switch.
  14. Hi guys I was experimenting with my RC motors (I don't have power functions yet) and well, the motors are going crazy. I saw a topic mentioning putting 2 motors under one baseplate that whould be impossible as the motors would work against each other. But if im putting 2 wires on the battery box the motor that is connected to the top wire is driving backwards! Does someone know what is happening?
  15. New MOC! This is the first model of an electric locomotive I've built. The Pennsylvania Railroad used these odd-looking twin-unit electric locomotives starting in the 1910s. Each half of the locomotive was powered by a single large electric motor in the body, connected to the driving wheels via a jackshaft and side rods, resulting in an effective wheel arrangement of 4-4-0+0-4-4 (2'B+B2' in UIC notation). To me, the jackshaft-and-side-rods drive system is a key part of the DD1's appearance. Consequently, the first thing I did was to figure out how to replicate the mechanism as faithfully as possible within the width of the model. By SNOT-ing the sides of the locomotive, I was able to make the bodywork only 1 plate thick in places, allowing me to pass a technic half-beam behind them. As a side benefit, the studs on the side line up nicely with the rivet lines on the prototype. After figuring out the mechanicals, I designed the bodywork in LDD, then placed a whole bunch of BrickLink orders with Commander Wolf to acquire all the windows, 1x3 tiles, and the giant pile of brackets required for the SNOTwork. I actually finished the model a couple weeks ago, but the soggy weather and other commitments prevented me from taking photos until now. I also took some video: Brickshelf gallery Let me know what you think!
  16. Hi Everyone! I've been lurking around the forums for quite a while now, posting every now and again, but haven't really introduced myself. Well, I'm an AFOL currently studying for a Ph.D. in computer science and have been playing with lego since I was a small child. In my early teens my family could finally afford to get us some lego trains and I fell in love with them immediately. I currently live in the UK, but I spent most of my life in Canada and was born in Poland. I also studied in Poland, where I used to take the trains daily to my university. You can see where I'm going with this :) I love the old Polish locomotives that are still in use today, especially when they contrast against modern carriages. I've designed an EU07 locomotive in LDD and wanted to share it with everyone. I'd very much welcome any comments and criticisms - I'd like to make any changes to the designs before I actually order the bricks (although I'm still undecided whether to order the pieces for this locomotive or 2 Horizon Express sets). The end result with carriages that I'm going for is something like this: http://www.bahnbilde...-als-12231.html (I've always wanted double-decker cars!). The livery and exact model of the locomotive that I'm building, however, are based on this: http://www.bbajko.fr.../EU07-368-2.jpg Well, here's the locomotive, I hope you like it! It's my first real MOC and the first train I've ever built in 8-wide. Please don't mind the pantographs - I intend to cut the tubing down to size, which I unfortunately cannot do in LDD. I would also like to credit markervip from the LUGPol forums for the idea to make the front windshield! His original post (in Polish) is available here: http://www.lugpol.pl/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14701
  17. After much preparation I am proud to present the instructions for my Skid Steer Loader, based on the New Holland LS160; It's driven by two electric motors, steers differentially, and the boom and bucket are pneumatic. Check it out moving about on .Control is by a tethered hand controller with built in automatic pneumatic pump - instructions are included for this. There's also a chapter describing the building techniques I used, loads of photos of the model and real machine, and instructions for an optional pneumatic grab attachment. You can buy the instructions from my website and MOCplans for a small charge of $12 - these are rendered by Eric Albrecht, so you know you are buying quality. I've listed the model on Rebrickable, so it should be easy to figure out if you have the parts you need to build it! Enjoy, and please let me know what you think :-) Jennifer
  18. My PRR B1 has reproduced itself into a PRR Class BB1. When PRR bought the first batch of the units, they came in BB1 configuration. The units were semi-permanently joined together. Only later on in life did PRR separated them into single B1 units and ordered further units as B1. PRR Class BB1 by dr_spock_888, on Flickr As a BB1 model, there is room to add Power Functions. An XL-motor can replace the M-motor if more power is needed. I had to add tires to the drive wheels to give it more traction around curves. I find the 0-6-0 wheel configration fascinating in these electrics. YouTube video: More pics on my BrickShelf: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=539207
  19. Presenting my little Pennsylvania Railroad B1 electric boxcab switcher. The B1 was a 700HP switcher used on the PRR. It had an interesting looking 0-6-0 wheel arrangement. They were built between 1926 and 1935. Originally they were operated in semi-permanent pairs as the BB1 class. They were splitted into single B1 units later on. I built this engine as it was a cute little boxcab and to learn to make stickers with Avery labels. It was also a good use of the wheel set from the LEGO Monster Fighter's Ghost Train. In order to motorize it, I may have to build another one to make a BB1 unit. The B1 currently doesn't have enough room to fit in the battery box, IR receiver and motor. That's a project for another day.
  20. I thought that I recalled reading somewhere on the internet a long time ago that Power Functions motors have no internal gearing. What the? Well, it looks like that wasn't true. Now that I think of it, I think that I have heard the noise of the internal planetary gears when I run my Emerald Night. I'm just used to the sound, and I may have mistaken it for the buzz of the electric motor. But I question if it's really a good idea to include internal gearing. Couldn't they have a smaller assembly if there was no internal gearing? Or they could have a larger electric motor inside with more total power-output. I would also expect the motor to be cheaper because of the simpler preassembly. Yes, I am aware of the basic fact that the gears are used to trade speed for strength. Wouldn't it be better if they just let us build that with our Technic gear pieces? Because Technic gears would take more space, maybe a separate preassembled planetary gearbox? I think that there are more Technic models that use gears to increase the speed of the motor than decrease it. It would probably be better if they at-least reduced it to one lair of planetary gears. I only know the basics of how an electric motor works. But I don't know exactly what determines all the specifications. Is there a way to adjust the balance of speed and strength while the motor is being built? I would expect there to be some way.
  21. A powerful AI enforcer created after the fall of Toa Oxell at the hands of his at-the-time psychotic partner Toa Ramnux. Blindvolt wants to prove he's more than a machine. His first emotionless action once put online was to put Ramnux out of his misery, which (now that he has developed a personality) is a decision that Blindvolt has come to completely regret. His name stems from the fact that justice is blind- and from his electric weaponry as well- though this title is merely poetic and Blindvolt himself is far from sightless. ^ CLICK THE IMAGE ABOVE TO VIEW THE MOCPAGES GALLERY . ^ This MOC was made in March 2013. Feedback is appreciated.
  22. Hello, I´m new to the forum, but I like lego trains. I have some plans to bring this model of milwaukee roads little joe locomotive to life. I wonder which the best way to buy separate bricks are