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With the possibility of at least three Trains-related sets through the BL Designer Program, I figured it deserved its own discussion thread! 2024 is shaping up to be a good year for ever-patient Trains fans. LEGO Bricklink Designer Program | Old Train Engine Shed Set number: NA Designation: Old Engine Train Shed Theme: Bricklink Designer Program - Series 1 Number of parts: 2,331 Minifigures: 6 Crowd Funding Start Date: February 7th, 2024 RRP: $229.99 US Fan-designer: Mind the Brick/Maria Kalaoglou 3,000 pre-orders required, 30,000 maximum produced. Limit of two per household. Update: FUNDED! Image: Official LEGO render Bricklink page: https://www.bricklink.com/v3/designer-program/series-1/224/Old-Train-Engine-Shed --- LEGO Bricklink Designer Program | Logging Railway Set number: NA Designation: Logging Railway Theme: Bricklink Designer Program - Series 2 Number of parts: 2,706 Minifigures: 3 Crowd Funding Start Date: June 2024 RRP: $209.99 Fan-designer: ties25 Note: Designed with motorization in mind 3,000 pre-orders required, 20,000 maximum produced. Limit of two per household. Image: Official LEGO Render Bricklink page: https://www.bricklink.com/v3/designer-program/series-2/642/Logging-Railway --- LEGO Bricklink Designer Program | Brick Cross Train Station Set number: NA Designation: Brick Cross Train Station Theme: Bricklink Designer Program - Series 2 Number of parts: 3,034 Minifigures: 8 Crowd Funding Start Date: June 2024 RRP: $279.99 Fan-designer: brickster 3,000 pre-orders required, 20,000 maximum produced. Limit of two per household. Image: Official LEGO Render Bricklink page: https://www.bricklink.com/v3/designer-program/series-2/728/Brick-Cross-Train-Station --- LEGO Bricklink Designer Program | Wild West Train Set number: 910044 Designation: Wild West Train Theme: Bricklink Designer Program - Series 4 Number of parts: 3,192 (was 2,760) Minifigures: 12 (was 6) Crowd Funding Start Date: February 4th 2025 RRP: $279.99 Fan-designer: llucky 3,000 pre-orders required, 30,000 maximum produced. Limit of two per household. Bricklink page: https://www.bricklink.com/v3/designer-program/series-4/1184/Wild-West-Train --- Series 5, Series 6 and Series 7 contain no accepted Trains-related sets. --- Series 8 will include "Brick Railroad Locomotive" an ATSF style locomotive. Bricklink page: https://www.bricklink.com/v3/designer-program/series-8/2739/Brick-Railroad-Locomotive Series 9 will include the "Woodbrick Freight Depot" a design from returning Trains designer Mind the Brick/Maria Kalaoglou. Bricklink page: https://www.bricklink.com/v3/designer-program/series-9/3131/WOODBRICK-FREIGHT-DEPOT Series 10 will include the "Wild West Train Station" from returning Trains designer llucky who brought us the Wild West Train. Bricklink page: https://www.bricklink.com/v3/designer-program/series-10/3681/Wild-West-Train-Station
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I had a whole stack of broken 12v light bricks where the bulb had gone. In particular they don't last that long when set in lamp posts. Sick of buying more so needed a way of replacing the bulb with a longer lasting LED. The first difficultly was finding the right LED with a built in resistor so they can run straight off the 12v power supply. I hadn't found 3mm white/clear LEDs before, just coloured ones, but found a supplier here for what I needed. These should also work fine for 9v. Then the other tricky bit was to open up the light brick without breaking it. This wasn't as difficult as I first thought, so here is the guide - no soldering and no glue! The tools used (almost common household items!) excluding the light brick and LED are : 1. A micro-screwdriver. 2. A bent curtain hook. 3. Some sharp nail scissors. https://savourous-eulah-autohypnotically.ngrok-free.dev/bulb/photo1.jpg Step 1. Using the screwdriver scrape off the plastic tab that helps hold into place the inner part of the light brick : https://savourous-eulah-autohypnotically.ngrok-free.dev/bulb/photo2.jpg Step 2. Using the holes for the plug as an anchor lever out the inner part of the light brick with the sharp end of the bent curtain hook until you can get under it : https://savourous-eulah-autohypnotically.ngrok-free.dev/bulb/photo3.jpg Step 3. If the inner part is still not loose rotate the other end of the curtain hook in the space made at the bottom : https://savourous-eulah-autohypnotically.ngrok-free.dev/bulb/photo4.jpg Step 4. Take out the inner part : https://savourous-eulah-autohypnotically.ngrok-free.dev/bulb/photo5.jpg Step 5. Use the micro srewdriver to remove the old bulb and contacts until the inner part is clear : https://savourous-eulah-autohypnotically.ngrok-free.dev/bulb/photo6.jpg Step 6. Throw away the old bulb and wiring and Insert the LED : https://savourous-eulah-autohypnotically.ngrok-free.dev/bulb/photo7.jpg Step 7. Bend the LED wires around the light brick making sure the LED is centred : https://savourous-eulah-autohypnotically.ngrok-free.dev/bulb/photo8.jpg Step 8. With the screwdriver continue to bend the LED wires into the plug contact holes : https://savourous-eulah-autohypnotically.ngrok-free.dev/bulb/photo9.jpg Step 9. Re-insert the metal contacts. This may take some force, but it will be this additional friction which means the removal of the plastic tab earlier doesn't matter : https://savourous-eulah-autohypnotically.ngrok-free.dev/bulb/photo10.jpg Step 10. Trim off the excess LED wires with the scissors : https://savourous-eulah-autohypnotically.ngrok-free.dev/bulb/photo11.jpg Step 11. Re-join the central part of the light brick with the cover (remember which way is up!) : https://savourous-eulah-autohypnotically.ngrok-free.dev/bulb/photo12.jpg Complete! Remember as it's an LED it won't work plugged in either way to the power supply, but that doesn't bother me in the slightest as you just turn the plug around / swap the pins if it doesn't work For train lights where the power will be reversed when you reverse the train I can recommend Janco's light bricks which are superb
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Hi everyone, I present to you my second version of the Renfe S-130 like Ferro-Friki did some time ago. I wanted to remake this train that I made first in 2018 with not the best result so I now made this version in 7 studs. LEGO Renfe S-130 DEF [MOC] by Imanol, en Flickr The set is heavily detailed even in the rear of the power cars and end cars LEGO Renfe S-130 Testeros Interiores [MOC] by Imanol, en Flickr I have made a reduced train set of only 7 cars instead of the 11 that has in real life but it has one of each of the different cars that form the real train with detailed interiors. First the "Preferente" end and "Preferente" LEGO Renfe S-130 Lateral Extremo Preferente [MOC] by Imanol, en Flickr LEGO Renfe S-130 Lateral Preferente [MOC] by Imanol, en Flickr The interiors of "Preferente" cars LEGO Renfe S-130 Interior Preferente [MOC] by Imanol, en Flickr The "Preferente" adapted car and it´s interior LEGO Renfe S-130 Lateral Preferente PMR [MOC] by Imanol, en Flickr LEGO Renfe S-130 Interior Preferente PMR [MOC] by Imanol, en Flickr The cafe car and it´s interior LEGO Renfe S-130 Lateral Cafeteria [MOC] by Imanol, en Flickr LEGO Renfe S-130 Interior cafeteria [MOC] by Imanol, en Flickr And the Turista cars which are the same as preferente but with 2+2 seating arrangement LEGO Renfe S-130 Lateral Remolques Turista [MOC] by Imanol, en Flickr LEGO Renfe S-130 Lateral Remolques Turista [MOC] by Imanol, en Flickr And now that I presented it I want to ask for help to build it as it will be my first lego train in real life. The car coupling mechanism that I have installed is only for aesthetical purposes and will not work in real life. Another problem is that i have seen many models in which all of the rear of the locomotive or power car pivots and I don´t know if it could be necesary to do in this case. Lastly I want to know how to motorize it, being so long I would suppose I would need the two power cars to provide power but I don´t know. Anyway, I hope you enjoy this project as much as I enjoyed designing it
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Hi guys, Here's my latest MOC - Grand Central Terminal! Hope you enjoy the detail jam-packed into this MOC. It's up on Ideas. Dozens of photos and a time lapse video here Grand Central Terminal on IDEAS. PS - Why is the max total size for an image upload set at 100KB??? At that limit, I can barely get one thumbnail in.
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At our Flickr page you can view the photos of our visit at Lego World 2016 in Utrecht: https://flic.kr/s/aHskMd9EAj. A video is also available: Enjoy, Hans -
Hi, so my LUG is considering building a new train layout for a train museum that hosts us. The Layout we have their now uses 9v Tracks, because we have set it up so that the tracks are powered for X amount of time by a button press. However, the 9v Tracks are ancient, and the trains we have on them struggle to pull even two cars. I don't know if it's because of the layout's size, as it is quite large. (20'x8' or so) So, I suggested we switch to RC track, and use some sort of power functions trains. My LUG though, isn't convinced about this, as they're worried about the batteries wearing out, and having it so that a button can be pressed to start the trains. So my questions are the following: Say we use Power functions trains. How long do the batteries last, if the train is running for a while? We come to the museum every weekend, but the museum is open all week. With power functions, is there a way to set it up so a button can be pressed to run the trains for X amount of time? I'm thinking Mindstorms, or something, but I don't know. We're also not purists, if that helps. Does anyone have examples of such a layout? If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask below. Thanks!
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This is my DIY LED lights on a budget. White 5mm LEDs are 2 cents each and resistors are 4 cents each on eBay. A large spool of wire-wrap wire costs around $5-7. Do-It-Yourself LEGO LED Light by dr_spock_888, on Flickr I tapped into the 9V and GND lines of the IR Receiver for power. Note this will void your warranty. Do so at your own risk. I fed the wires through the pin holes on the receiver. No drilling or cutting needed. I sandwiched the LED between two Technic 1x2 bricks. The 5mm sized LEDs fit right in the Technic hole. I decided to try wire-wrapping instead of soldering. It might be easier to disassemble later on. The LED turns on when the battery pack is turned on. It makes a good reminder to turn off the battery pack when done playing. Little Yellow Locomotive by dr_spock_888, on Flickr The hard part was calculating what size resistor to use to limit the current to the LED. Too much current will blow the LED. Tools used were small Philip head (+) screwdriver, wire cutter & stripper, soldering iron, wire-wrap tool, and tweezers. Plus a multimeter to verify polarity.
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Hiya, I'm assembling my 2 x 10027 Train Engine Sheds ready to sell and I've run into an odd problem. Brickset's inventory says it contains the new stone greys while Peeron says it's the old greys. I tried to narrow it down by assessing whether I had the correct baseplates, tracks and other unique parts in the right colours which lead me to believe Peeron is correct and this 2003 set was on the cusp of 'greygate' but if someone could check their set and confirm which greys it uses, I'd be very grateful. Were there any sets that contained a mix of both out of interest? Thanks, Alex
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Hello All, I am looking for 12v trains that are 100% complete along with track and transformers to start my 12v collection. I am in the U.S. so I have had a hard time finding any 12v trains for a decent price. Please comment here or PM me with information if you are willing to sell any Thanks, -Cameron Muir
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Hey guys! I've been playing with the idea of implementing a terminus station into my layout. This would mean that trains need to reverse out of the station and in the best case drive around normally in reverse with a cab at the non-powered control car at the end. See this picture for explanation: I've noticed that by pushing, the Lego train engines seem to struggle a bit more with higher loads than while pulling. I don't understand why this is the case though. Physically, the forces should be the same, no? Maybe I'm missing something. Obviously I could just put an engine at either end of the train but I'm trying not to in order to have more independent trains running around. A push-pull train is very common in Germany for example (where I live). That's where I got the idea from.
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Hey Guys, I have been working on a very small set-up that would both allow a number of modulars and some city prices as well as my TRAINS! While I have all the trains powered at this point many will not see any action but I am very happy with how it has turned out and already planning my next modular buy! Lego Train/Town Set Up by Ernie Darby, on Flickr Lego Train/Town Set Up (Left) by Ernie Darby, on Flickr Lego Train/Town Set Up (Right) by Ernie Darby, on Flickr
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Hello all, I'm trying to find a way to create a power/data coupling between train cars that can be connected/disconnected like the car coupling magnets. Has anyone done anything like this? Background: This is so that I can supply power and control to LED lights (and maybe other devices) in the cars being pulled behind the engine, which will provide the power and control unit (Arduino based MCU) I've tried using a micro USB magnetic connector, but they are too bulky and don't flex easily enough for this. I'd love to find out if anyone has engineered anything similar. Thanks in advance! Arlo -
Greetings all. Recently, I have decided to make the painful decision of selling my 9V collection. It hurts a bit to sell all these wonderful things, but for the last year they haven't done much except sit in a drawer. They deserve better than that. Listing: Basically, what I did was took the lowest BrickLink price for any given article and cut a bit more off. I'm not interested in making a massive profit off of these. I'll settle for an even 3,400.00 EUR, shipping costs on me. Trains would be shipped worldwide via FedEx, UPS, DHL, or any courier of your choice available in Poland or the UK (pickup also available in these two countries). Not everything on the pictures is listed, but everything in the picture (LEGO-wise) is included. Additionally, as I'm cleaning the room in which the LEGO are in (it's quite a big room, about 45-50 square meters, and it's filled with stuff so it won't take a short while), I'm more than willing to send free-of-charge anything else I can find from my collection (I'm pretty sure there were about 5 9V motors lying around somewhere). I am also including a folder with this collection. The folder contains instruction booklets in EXCELLENT condition for most of the models. All the instruction booklets for the Santa Fe sets are in there in mint condition, as well as the certificate of authenticity for the limited edition (please note that the other one is not limited edition). The folder also contains all the spare parts from the Santa Fe car sets, so conversions are possible. Feel free to email message me about any inquiries regarding this collection. If you want I can put it up for a private auction on eBay (I'd rather avoid doing so because of the fees). *Note - the Metroliner is counted as 2 sets, but one is incomplete. As you can see from the picture, what I have is the Metroliner and 2 additional cars. The cars came from 2 incomplete Metroliner sets (one contained the engine and the car, the other contained an incomplete engine and the car, only the incomplete engine survived and is seen on the picture). I've basically listed the Metroliner and 2 incomplete sets as 2 complete sets (2 engines, 3 cars). *Note - one of the cargo train locomotives is a custom. I ordered it by accident from BrickLink (didn't read the description). It's a bit shorter than the original, and it doesn't have the undercarriage mechanics, although this is easy to add. It still comes with a working 9V motor.
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After many years of dreams, reflections, planning (starting Winter 2011/12), testing (starting fall 2013) and finally building (starting spring 2014), this project has finally crossed the finish line - probably one of the world's most extreme and most challenging layouts for Lego Train 9V! An indescribable feeling, great satisfaction and relief - and what a fantastic experience! First some introductory remarks: This is not a "usual" but rather a conceptual layout with analogue power supply and -management, without landscapes and buildings (except one train station). A particularly sophisticated construction with four themes: a one-track vertical climb, two double-track climbing spirales, a double-track high-level track 2.16 m above floor level and a rail yard. The layout is intended for Lego trains equipped with standard Lego 9V train engines. It is built with standard Lego 9V rails and points, some of which are modified. So are all four 9V Train Speed Regulators. With the help of points, the layout can be segmented into four sections (Loop A - D) which make it possible to run four trains simultaneously, independent of each other, with up to ten engines each. However, this requires more hands... To avoid/prevent spontaneous decoupling, all my trains are equipped with super magnets. I also would like to take this opportunity and thank all of you who have contributed with support, valuable advice, and encouragement during all these years. Without all this help, this project would have remained just a dream. And this is how it looks like: More pictures, facts and videos will be added to the first entry of this thread Addendum # 1: Technical Data and Details: Track lengths: Total track length (incl.sidings and dead-ends): approx. 173 m Total "Tour" length (from start to start): approx. 105 m Loop A (High-level track 1/High-speed track): approx. 32 m Loop B (High-level track 2): approx. 29 m Loop C (Climbing-wall from level 85 to traverse on level 175): approx. 46 m Loop D (Level 50 and level 85): approx. 21 m Rails: 949 straight, 263 curved and 37 modified (4, 8, 10 and 12 straight) Points: 13 standard points (whereof 3 are operated electrically) 6 crossover points (4) 11 half-curve points (1) Track Design Program: Track Designer Application (R) version 2.0 by Matthew D. Bates (Matt's LEGO (R) Train Depot) Electrics/Electronics: 1 Power Supply Unit VOLTCRAFT EP-925, 3-15 V(DC), max. 25A 4 modified Train Speed Regulators (4548) with LM350T regulators, 3A diodes, outside heatsinks (with a thermal resistance of 1.9 K/W), mini-fans and digital thermometers to measure temperatures inside the boxes 4 Control-boxes to operate 12 points electrically. The boxes are equipped with "memory-sticks" to memorize the position of each point since these are out of reach and sight. 12 PF Medium engines mounted on the electrically operated points 52 Power connections to rails 1 Control-box to selectively turn on/turn off 11 power connections Approximately 1000 m cable whereof approx. 850 m RK cable 1.5 square mm Märklin pins and sleeves 1 LED strand (4 m) with dimmer 1 IR-thermometer to measure heatsink temperatures Construction: 7 levels: Rail yard level (50 cm above floor level) Train station level (85) U-curve level 1 (115) U-curve level 2 (145) U-curve level 3 (175) Eaves level (195) Top-level (216) Max. gradient: 83 per thousand (The gradients are built in such a way that all trains can manage to get uphill and downhill with adhesion, i.e. without cogwheels). Min. clearance: approx. 12 cm Train shelves: Shelf system: Algot (IKEA) 15 train shelves type A (102x11x1.6 cm), 8 straight/shelf 27 train shelves type B (166x11x2 cm), 13 straight/shelf 12 train shelves type C (217x11x2 cm), 17 straight/shelf all train shelves are strengthened with 22x45 mm wood strips All in all 54 train shelves with a total length of 86 m (678 straight) and 108 railway buffers 2 "Trains-in-Transit" (TIT) Trolleys (Algot) Room dimensions: 5.5 x 7.3 m Occupied floor space (incl. train shelves): approx. 9 square m Construction materials: Wood (45x45 mm) and wood strips (22x42 mm) MDF boards (6 and 10 mm) Glass shelves (6 mm) Polycarbonate strips (3 mm) and rivets Cable conduits Steel cords (3 mm) with wire locks Perforated plates and angle irons Cable ditches and cabling towards cable terminal Cable terminal Power supply unit and cable terminal box Control center Addendum # 2: More pictures with some of my MOCs Glacier Express with Matterhorn in the background Trans Europ Express (TEE) "Rheingold" and TEE-VT 11.5 in alpine environment Swiss "Crocodile" (10183) with heavy RhB cargo transport in the steepest part of the entire track - a gradient of 83 permille! "Uppsalapendeln" in the midst of the Swiss Alps - imagine if this were for real .... Emerald Night on its way up to the mountains Track Cleaning Train at Knivsta Station - ready for new missions Track Maintenance Train on its way for a new mission Addendum #2A: Train shelves "Trains-in-Transit" (TIT) Trolleys with two Maersk and one TTX Train section(s) ready for transit Addendum #3: Videos https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=47CqLOQKGLM&t=10s
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Hi, you like trains? This is the review for you. Small, cute trains. Enjoy! Overview 31015 Name: Emerald Express Theme: LEGO Creator 3 in 1 Year: 2014 Pieces: 56 pieces Minifigures: 0 Price: £4.99 / $4.99 / 4.99€ / RM19.90 31054 Name: Blue Express Theme: LEGO Creator 3 in 1 Year: 2017 Pieces: 71 pieces Minifigures: 0 Price: £4.99 / $4.99 / 4.99€ / RM24.90 Introduction 31015 and 31054 are both creator three in one trains designed at their smallest boxed sets. I came across these affordable sets and bought three sets each to complete the three designs and connect them together. The Boxes 'One does not simply buy ONLY one creator three in one sets.' The box art with borders are new designs of 2017 sets. Emerald express looked like it was set in arctic background and blue express in some green scenery. At the back of the box you can see all three designs are presented. Both with the head of the train, the carriage and the tail. Here you can compare that the 2014 set has a larger box and wheel compared to the 2017 set. Pieces count increased but the size of the pieces became smaller. Cutting cost? The Build Lets start with the older set. Emerald Express The build was overall easy. Here you can see the head of the train looked like a small cart, with a curve black roof and 2x2 trans clear brick acting as windows. I liked how the dark green rounded bricks matches with the red and trans yellow headlight and the 'chimney' is very nicely placed. The carriage. I see it as the middle part of the train. You can actually buy a lot of sets and make a lot of these carriage to elongate your train. This four wheeled carriage is very nice with curve ends on both sides, and it will be attached via the ball joint at the front and back of the carriage. This is the rear end of the train. The 'chimney' part become the tail of the train with yellow light. There is a compartment for passengers with trans clear 1x2 as window, two large wheels and one small wheel as support. This is a very nice and beautiful train when you connect them together via the ball joints I've mentioned earlier. The windows are very beautiful with those trans clear pieces, and its design of head and rear are very distinct where you can easily differentiate which direction the train is moving. Blue Express The building technique for this new 2017 set is some kind of modular. The parts are connected to each other via a red technic pin. You can actually detach and combine them with compartments from other sets in this series for more creative vehicles, and more fun! This is a classic blue train which reminds me of Thomas the train. How nice if LEGO adds a smiley face at the front of the train! The head of the train was decorated with a rather small 'chimney' and there are three pairs of small wheels. The size of the wheels are uniform towards the end. This is the center part of the train built with second set. The wheels are the same, this time added two red piece at the passenger seat area to add in to some details for this part. It is quite symmetrical if you view from any side of the compartment. This is the rear end of the train. Three pairs of small wheels, a round tile with a stud at the center without the trans clear 1x1 round plate distinguished it with the front. I like the blue dome part making it looks more curvy. The new 1x2 wedge also adds some details at the tail of the train. This is the whole 'Thomas train'! Not bad for a train and the blue and black color match is quite nice. I think LEGO can add a printed number plate at the front of the train to make it much worthy to buy. These are the extra parts from all three sets. Comparison In this picture the length of both train are almost the same. Color wise both are very nicely matched. Design wise I prefer the Emerald Express for a much detailed train compared to a 'symmetrical' looking train. Blue Express vs Emerald Express. Which one will you board? Summary review Playability: 6/10 (No play features for both sets, however kids can move the train with the wheels) Design: 9/10 (The design of the train was very nice and elegant. You can really feel like you are going to show your ticket and get into the train. But I still prefers the Emerald.) Price: 9/10 (What more do you ask for a 56/71 pcs set?) Overall: 8/10 (I think Emerald Express looks more like a real train. Blue Express looks a bit toy-ish. Both are very nice when displayed together, so I would suggest you get all six boxes for a complete train.
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Did a random search for Creator sets and stumbled onto Mini Trains. I like it, it's cheap and the suggested models are distinct from each other. So I got to thinking, how do I take these old-timey trains and turn them into something more hi-tech? I went with the obvious answer of course, turn the train into a wireless hydroelectric power station! Hydroelectric Power Station (4837-1 Mini Trains Alt Model) by Henchmen4Hire I hope it's more or less clear how it supposedly works lol. The two metal towers are some kind of generators, the clips could be antennas or a place to lash cables from the generators. Power is stored in the black tanks, which are connected to the, uh, transceiver? and then shot out into the open so devices can use the free wireless energy. Original set: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=4837-1#T=P
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I need help with making a signature. I know where the little trains come from. -
I have always thought about certain trains in lego. These are some I haven't seen. images are glitchy. Cnj g3 pacific Southern 630 prr turbine feel free to comment. I would love to see others you know of.
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This past week, the local LUG, Cactus Brick, put on a display at the Phoenix Comicon. The display contained a new pirate section, a large town with an enhanced railway system, and a large Star Wars collection. Here is a video highlighting the various builds. -
hi i would like to do a swiss train moc as my first moc where can you get the essential pieces for train
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This is for discussion of train storage systems (or lack thereof if you are unlucky). I'll start with my storage / transport solution: If anyone has wondered how I get my trains to and fro all over the place, here is my secret: cardboard paper boxes. Fourteen (14) of them from all different places and companies. I tried asking for the empty ones at the Office Max / Office Depot stores (They are all owned by the Staples company now, believe it or not!) but they can't sell or give them away due to some corporate policy. I had been getting them from my dad's work, and more recently, different offices I have been to / worked at. They are them cut-down by Xacto knife and hot glued back together with opening lid and section dividers, which allows for me to store trains a number of different combinations. Most of the passenger cars are 24 studs long, with 1 studs of overhang over each coupler. However, the Spirit of Legoredo is an older 28 stud long design, and most steam locos are longer than 30 studs. Nevertheless, I have maximized space whenever possible. Below you will see several variations on these boxes, and maybe they will help you with your train storage problems. Forgotten GS-6 Daylight 4-8-4 and Meramec river Runner passenger train Alco FA / FB (not shown) and Spirit of Legoredo passenger train Generic six car freight train (not shown - on display on my layout) Mikado 2-8-2 steam freight loco and EMD E-unit cab + booster units American 4-4-0 and early passenger train Now how do YOU store or transport your trains?!?
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Hello again, after so many requests to show some wagons for my GHH G7.1 - finally, here they are! Both wagons are in 1:33 scale. They feature detachable roofs and detailed interior. Although LEGO's large drive wheels are identical in diameter, I used BBB L drivers once again, as the counterweight on the LEGO wheels made them inappropriate for the use on cars. The first one is a third-class passenger car for the GHH pitmen: The interior: A rendering of the interior, showing the... eh... "silent little place", as we say in German: Furthermore, I built an old-fashioned little passenger car with brakeman's cab. I modeled this one after a photo I happened to see on ebay, showing a GHH G7.1 pulling such a wagon, and I have to say that I am quite proud of the result. Sadly, I didn't manage to get the mentioned photo, so I can't show it here. Another rendering: As usual, you can find larger versions of the images here. Last but not least, here is a video link showing the whole train running. Hope you liked it, best regards Sven
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Just found out that the 8866 Train Motor is now a retired product by LEGO. Does this mean that LEGO is coming up with something new to power engines in their Train Sets (like 60051, 60052, 60098, Yellow Cargo, Maersk, etc.)? My bad - confused 88002 with this product. Sorry. Perhaps, a thread with retired parts/sets is not a bad idea. If mods do not think so, please delete.
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Hello everyone, Here is my entry into the Winter Village competition. Because of the new Winter Village train, we need a station so there is somewhere for the train to stop! I used this train station in my own Winter Village display this year, so I took extra care to make sure the scale of the building matched the other buildings from Lego's official Winter Village sets. This was not as easy as it sounds. There is a tendency for me (and many others, I think) to make our MOCs large and grande. It is difficult to be restrained in the size of our builds. IMG_0511-001 by James Altland, on Flickr For some reason, the system will not allow more photos to be posted. So I will post this one for now, and perhaps more later. Thank you for looking! Okay, I'm new to posting photos on this site. So I'm trying to add a few more photos, even though they may be too late for consideration in the Winter Village competition. IMG_0504 by James Altland, on Flickr IMG_0506-001 by James Altland, on Flickr IMG_0489 by James Altland, on Flickr
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I haven't seen a thread for 2017 trains (mods please feel free to merge/delete if I missed it) and thought it was high time we started one. We currently have 3 non-duplo train sets on sale: 60051: High Speed Passenger Train (2014) 60052: Cargo Train (2014) 60098: Heavy Haul Train (2015) Plus 2 track packs (one of which is the much maligned flexible & straight track pack) I found out today that the only train "building" to have been sold in the past two years (60050 - train station) has also now been retired. Now I don't know about the rest of you, but I'm not feeling much love as a Lego Train fan - it's pretty slim pickings at the moment... I have a couple of mod/moc projects to keep me going but would really appreciate a decent official set (or two) this year. What are the chances of that happening? Surely they have to replace one of the 2014 sets and at least get a replacement station out in 2017?
