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Showing results for tags 'question'.
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Hello! I am a 22-year-old LEGO builder on the spectrum, I build mostly cars but I am also a fan of fantasy media and like building stuff from my favorite franchises. I only like fiction media where anything taking in the real world is relatively realistic (like The Office, with no superheroes, time machines, aliens, etc) and anything in a fictional high fantasy world (a closed fantasy world like Middle Earth, not something "isekai") can happen since it has no relation to the real world. Because of this, I feel like the only nerd who's only into a single fictional genre with very specific tastes. For example, 99% of Star Wars fans I see (something I like) are also into Marvel and superheroes (something I dislike), and whenever I see someone's LEGO MOC collection, it looks like they're practically into every movie/game series ever made! This had made it incredibly difficult for me to be myself and find friends who I can relate to, and has made the idea of attending a Comic-Con or anime convention seem impossible so I was wondering if anybody else here feels the same or know people that feel the same. Thanks. -
Whenever people see my collection they always comment on how large it is (even though I'll usually only have about 5% on display at any time due to space) and I'll usually correct them by saying that it's small compared to some people's. I have (as of right now) 466 sets and including lose pieces approximately 120,000 parts. I'd consider my collection to be small. I was just wondering what other people would consider to be a "large" collection? -
I know rock monster arms connect with the same tube system as minifigure arms- what other things can connect to minifigure torsos?
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Hello, I am looking for the part 4621555 but transparent. I want to change the two panels over the engine of the porsche gt3 rs so I can see it. Are there any panels like this? Greetings
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Hi, how are you doing? So... just as a future reference point, how do you feel about self-promoting your Ideas submissions on here? Are they allowed, and- more intriguing to me- do you respect them? Is it too desperate/low-brow to you? I've been debating whether I should put any and all my future Ideas submissions on here, I'm curious what you guys think about it? Thanks, I appreciate it!
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I'm selling some empty set boxes, and someone has asked if I can ship to them. Problem is, the boxes themselves are some of the larger UCS sized boxes. How would I go about shipping them?
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How does one get the "LDD Builder" tag? I build frequently in LDD and would love to know. Thanks in advance! VF-2187 -
With one of my recent MOCs, people have been asking for instructions and since I generally don't have a lot of time, it's been a doubtful case. However, I've considered making them and then selling them for this MOC (and other MOCs with hundreds of pieces that involve complex techniques) to justify the time taken (which will also help me fund such creations in the future). Now that someone has mentioned being willing to pay for them, I decided to do some research. As this is something I haven't done before, I was wondering if there are any guidelines to take into mind to start doing this. What people are generally willing to pay, the best way to distribute the instructions and any other things to potentially take in mind, such as the unwanted spreading of copies and all other things that may be involved. Knowing that there might be some people here who also deal in such trades and some who may just know a thing or two about it, I figured I'd just ask to help get me started in the best way possible. ~ GM
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I'm building a tow truck, and I'm running into a problem with the design of the functions. First, let's do an image of what we're talking about. As you see, it's a smaller-scale version of a tow truck similar to 8285, but with an extra axle. The wheels will be those from 42024 and other sets. Because of the scale, there is probably not enough room to add PF. So right now I'm aiming to have it manual. As far as I can see now, there will be the following functions: steering main boom raising/lowering main boom extension main boom winch car lifter raising/lowering car lifter fold out/in outriggers The steering is done and controlled by the gear on the roof. The car lifter fold in/out will be manual with a knob at the back. Remaining are 5 functions. The question I'm having now is, how to drive those. Of course, with the model being manual, I could just add a knob for every function. But this doesn't sound like the most technically challenging option, so I am thinking of adding some kind of switchbox. But, 5 functions is kind of an unwieldy number, ecause it requires 3 switches with 1 being half-used. Currently, the outriggers are driven by knobs on the side, and I could leave it that way and have 4 functions running from the switchbox, but this feels kind of incomplete as well. So I'm unsure about where to go from here. So I'm looking for some advice. What do you think? Are there other options? What would you do? -
Hi guys, can I damage PF Servo motor if I will force to turn it only 45° as you can see it on image bellow? Green axle will be connected to servo that will be fixed to red part: -
I'm programming my EV3 vehicle to be operated by an IR beacon remote. I've successfully got the car to be able to move, but I'm stuck on something else. My vehicle has a 4-speed transmission, and a medium motor shifts the gears. I used the remote's topmost button (the one that turns on the green light on the remote) for shifting the gearbox. But when I press it, something goes off. It's really hard to say, but what I know is that the topmost button isn't acting like a normal button. So the motor keeps on moving until the IR sensor realizes the green light is off. I really need help with the program because I just want the topmost button to act like a normal button so I can press it to make the medium motor shift one gear with a one second wait before shifting to the next one. I would love a very helpful response from someone that knows how to program the IR remote and if there is no way to get the topmost button to get the result I want, an alternative would be nice so I can be able to shift gears with the push of a button on the remote. -
Well, I've come back to Technic, but I need to get a set toadd some good pieces. Criteria: I can only spend up to $200 Canadian Dollar$ It need some nice wheels I don't mind buying from brucklink/Amazon/eBay, etc I'm wanting pnuematics, LAs, differential(s), frames, PF isn't required. Thanks for your future suggestions! -
Hi all, I am rebuilding all my sets to see if they are complete. Today i rebuild set 357 firestation. I do this with the help of bricklink to find all the correct pieces. Bricklink stated that there are 4 4-long en 1-wide bricks with a legoland engraving in the set. 1 in white and 3 in red. I know where the white one belongs in the set. But where do the red ones go? I can't figure it out.
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Does anyone here know of any sets that in the instructions ask you to cut 3mm rigid hose? I know that old Technic sets asked you to cut 4mm pneumatic hose, but was it the same way with 3mm ever? Maybe one of the people who has been in the hobby longer than I have could answer this. Thanks in advance.
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Hello everyone, I am fairly new to this forum and noticed that there are many "guilds" that run the place. I was wondering if this forum is used to support the worlds and story lines that have been set before me, or if it is encouraged to bring in original story lines. Excuse my noobery, -Deme
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Personally, I'd like to visit the UK. For one thing, I'm part-British, and I also have a lot of friends from the UK, including one of my best friend's girlfriend.. whom he hasn't seen in months, sadly.
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I have an idea to build lift cabin on the side of a modular building. Who can help to build or give a link for mechanism that can lift the cabin up, then stop (or without pause), and then go down. And repeat this cycle. Up-down-up-down... Thank you for your attention
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Hello! I have noticed recently that I can't buy any Lego from any other amazon site than my home country. I am curious why this is? Also since I cannot buy Lego internationally anymore from amazon, does anyone know of other shops from the UK or Europe that ship to the U.S. internationally they can recommend. All suggestions appreciated -RailCo
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Hey guys! As my Techtroners LEGO SPACE pseudo subtheme becomes more and more known (and maybe even popular in a way) I am starting to think about some real important changes to the way I am designing my MOCs which would have really strong visual effect on my future builds...and yet would be pretty challenging too for me to design them in that way I guess! Many times some of you kind of "complain" (OK, I know it is not the best description of the matter but I am unable describe it differently...anyway I mean it really in a good manner ) that my MOCs may look fine but there is one thing that somehow ruins it all a bit: as I am basically "prototyping" new bricks' colors it is quite often not possible building such design for real because such brick colors simply do not exist, of course. Some other "complain" from time to time is also the fact that some of my MOCs look too complex = too many bricks needed for their construction with real LEGO bricks (in fact I was always adoring those older TLG designers - mainly those form 80's - that were able doing so much and big looking stuff with just "a few" bricks used like <400 for a big space station compared, for example, to my own designs...wow!) - my "normal" brick count is actually somewhere around 1000 +/-. So my question is: - do you think I should go the way of designing my future Techtroners MOCs FROM EXISTING BRICK COLORS ONLY AND NOT THAT COMPLEX (like, let's say, 500 pcs as maximum thus making my MOCs looking not that too many bricks and fancy anymore)? - or should I STAY WITH MY CURRENT APPROACH (thus making it looking somewhat amazing still BUT ppl would not be able build it in a designed way)? Please, show me your opinion in my poll if you may - I would be very thankful to you if you do! P.S.: this would have effect on all of my newly designed MOCs from 2016 onward but would not be taken to consideration to MOCs that are already designed but not publicly released yet (one can very easily tell when was one designed by my numbering: just look at the middle two digits of MOC's respective number - it is the year it designed! ). regards bublible
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At the bottom of a lot of people's replies, I notice a little area where they have personal info/pictures/messages. I was wondering how you get that little box? (EDIT) I see now that they are called signatures, but I don't see an option in my account preferences about signatures.
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Not really, but I found out that the motors in my GX EV3 peform better in IR Control mode than how they do in my program, and I believe that it is because the motor power is different. Each block in the EV3 programming software that moves the motors has a digit for how much power each motor should have. I'm wondering what this digit is in IR Control mode, because the motors act much better in this mode than how the do in the program. If anyone here knows the power of the motors when the EV3 brick is in this mode, please reply as soon as possible. It would be very appreciated.
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I'm back with one last issue in my GX EV3 build. I just got done finishing the doors, side panels, rear trunk door, hood, and some part of the roof. But the vehicle was so heavy that when I drove it around, it kept on doing the same thing. The diffs were clicking and the car had very much difficulty moving. Here is a picture of the bottom of the vehicle. Most of the clicking seems to be coming from the rear diff when I move the wheels by hand. I can either do two things. 1. Reinforce the rear diff somehow. 2. Improve it's off-road performance and stop the clicking somewhat by replacing the diffs with knob gears. But this will come at the cost of independent moving between the wheels. What should I do? Please give me the best response you can so the clicking will stop and I could finally take this AWD machine through some rough terrain like a real SUV. I really appreciate any advice.
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I have only been building my creations with EV3 but for a long time now I thought about getting a BuWizz. It's a good price right now. I'm really interested in how amazing this product is and I would be excited to make the transition to PF/BuWizz powered cars, so I have to get a servo motor and a few L motors to go with it. What is your opinion on buying a BuWizz 2.0? What PF parts should I buy to go with it to make car MOCs? Thank you for your feedback.
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I thought for some bit about getting 42110. As a car enthusiast and MOC builder, I have always loved the Technic manufacturer cars, owning the Arocs, Porsche, Bugatti, and even the Corvette. All those sets wielded me some very useful pieces to make future MOCs with. However, the Land Rover set doesn't seem like a good buy for me... I have a lot of Lego already. It's expensive. I'm not into Land Rover, even though I think the new Defender is cool. The pieces. The lockable differential and the new wheels are the only pieces that I can find use with, and there's not many good ideas I have for green MOCs. I thought about getting the Porsche 911 RSR instead because of its white pieces, but the fenders have prints. So I guess I'll take a pass on both cars, what is your opinion on the new Defender set?
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I have a small IT class project for school where I have to program an EV3 robot through the small basic extension. I want the robot to play a sound file (a short rsf file) but I don't have access to all of the folders nor do I have access to the EV3 software... The sound file I want to play was made at home using the EV3 software but I can't use the exported rsf in my code for some reason. I have tried several things but without access to all the folders (I can reach several folders but not through the root so I can't reach the sounds folder) and the EV3 software I'm stuck... Can anyone help me with the rsf without saving it in the sounds folder?
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