Zerobricks

Exactly, half a pin wide arm would just break off. I think the general shape is the same as the normal CV hub, albeit with fixed pins. The towballs seems to be offset by half a stud at the hub, due to the use of those weird parts, hope it doesn't affect the steering system too much... Also, I think description is meant to say new wheel hub element, not just a new wheel element. Also there's no mention of AWD in description,even though it's one of the most important features...

Not (yet?)

Here's the third and last video regarding this project, the official handover:

Here's to hoping. They will probably be a different color though to differentiate from the current ones with a 3 studded axle.

Just hope they didn't use the older, weaker CV joints for inboard ones... Though I doubt they would last well long especially with heavy acceleration/reversing at speed.

I think there also has to be a new, shorter version of the new "female" CV joint, since there is only 7 studs between suspension arms. EDIT: I also think the front shock absorbers are connected with a liftarm that can swing freely. This way the front suspension acts like a pivoted axle, simillar to my Universal 4x4 off-roader

They are using new CV joints, you can see on the photo if you increase exposure. I think it will be a simple 16:16 tooth gear to the diff and onto the wheels.

Are those new hubs?

Thanks for all the praise to everyone. Unfortunately, I can't share the LDD file, but if anyone wants more photos of certain details, let me know! Regarding frames, yes, due to the molding limitations, they have a slight difference in the upper and lower side, which is what I exploited in order to fit the 24 tooth gear of the differentials without rubbing. I'm really happy you noticed this, @shroomzofdoom and thank you for the encouraging words.

Indeed and it's a normal one, you can even make out the Z16 text.

I always wonder how some people manage to get their hands on sets almost 3 months before release? Judging from review, Lego has to again baby-step the differential assembly and orientation and put additional bricks to prevent incorrect placement.

I will ask if it's okay to share the LDD file. Regarding instructions, I doubt many people would actually be interested in the model as it is, since it's a very specific, part-intensive, expensive and complicated build.

Personally I mostly prefer high-travel independent suspension, especially in the front for fast vehicles where stability is important. Independent suspension allows you to build a much lower and stable frame, and the steering system tends to be more responsive than linking the power to a live axle. Also there's less chance of drivelines popping out under stress. Independent suspension is generally much more responsive and smoother since there's no weird perpendicular conenctors needed to connect 9L shock absorbers at non-axial mounting points. Having said that a live axle with integrated drive and steering motors is a good way to go too, but than again you need a high, stiff frame to hold it all together, increasing center of gravity. I think a compromise with Independent front suspension and live axle in the back might be a good way to too.

Talk about mods, managed to motorize it using 6 drive motors, which is the most I ever crammed in a 1:10 car. 4 motors are used for rear wheel drive, 2 for the front and they all use brick-built CV joints to drive the wheels. Top speed has yet to be tested, but should be around 25 km/h. Here's a small teaser:

Remember that you can get the 42114's and 42110's wheel arches also in white which might be an easier color to work with.

Sure, go ahead, that's why I share my builds, to inspire others! Can't wait to see your F350, will it be in the same scale?

Difflocks work as they should, so far no issues with them. Regarding instructions, I doubt since this was a one-off project.

Agreed, the adventure park seems to use more interesting and varied mechanics than the usual 1:10 scale cars. Heck, can't remember the last time I saw a Technic set use so many different and varied mechanism in a single build. You have axles and bevel gears in all directions, rotational movement, U joints, various oscilating functions such as waves and pirate ship movements, seems more of an essence of what Technic is really about. Edit: Also, a function going through the small turntable!

Thank you! They can swivel in the rear since they extend when compressed. The rubber bands hold the brake caliper holder represented by handles 30031.

From my experience, the PF and PU XL motors are the quite quiet thanks to the low internal friction and low output speed. Also the old 9V block motor, 43362 was very quiet too:

If you're using a solid axle, why not just use a 1x6 half beam? Or such?

I don't usually post my work projects here, but every so often there is a special one that I really want to showcase more in detail. Today I want to show you one of my all-time favourite projects, which is packed both full of functionality and a very high level of detail. Before we go into the details, lets' first let's talk about the idea behind it. We (the BuWizz team) have been cooperating with Slovenian AMZS (Slovenian Automobile Association) for a while now and they are the ones who allow us to record the various speed breaking and such events on their polygon. An idea emerged for a project to design and loose replica of their existing Tow Truck which is to be used for education purposes. Here's how one of their tow truck looks like: I decided to use this specific model as an inspiration of my representation and here were the basic starting functions and features: 1:10 scale Capable of lifting and towing an actual 1:10 model like 42125 All Wheel drive Working gearbox Realistic suspension Highly detailed As with most of my projects, i first started working in LDD and this is what the first prototype looked like: I took some liberty with the shape, notably I removed the crew compartment in order to better the lift arm details. As the project progressed, so did the amount of functions, features and details until I ended up with this long list: Motorized with 11 motors Powered by 2 BuWizz 3.0 Pro bricks All wheel drive powered by 4 BuWizz motors Working gearbox with a high and low gear 3 differential locks Independent suspension in the front Solid rear axle in the back which uses 3x13 curved panels as leaf springs Working V8 engine connected to the drive motors Functioning steering wheel linked to the steering rack Motorized lift which can unfold, raise and lock onto thr wheels of the towed vehicle A motorized winch in the rear Working front LED lights Opening doors, hood and compartments Detailed engine bay with battery, air filter and washer fluid Compartments filled with details such as fuel canisters and various tools Other details include cones and fire extinguishers 3D printed braking discs in the front for show Total piece count is around 3060 parts Just over 3 kilograms 51 cm x 24 cm x 22 cm when folded excluding mirrors Capable of lifting and towing a 1:10 scale car like 42125 even up a steep hill Top speed of 10 km/h Here's an overview of the model and the basic mechanical functions: Driveline is powered by 4 BuWizz motors. The motors drive a 2 speed gearbox and a fake V8 engine: Gearbox is powered by a PU M motor and uses 2 mini linear actuators to switch between low, neutral and high gear: Each of the 3 differentials has it's own lock, actuated by a wave selector and powered by a PU M motor: Steering system is powered by a PU L motor and uses two steering racks in order to both steer the wheels and turn the steering wheel: Finally, there are several more PU M motors used to power the rear arm. The main actuators lift the whole arm and are powered by 1 PU M motor: Another PU M motor is used to unfold the lower part of the lift arm using 2 mini linear actuators: Finally another PU L motor is used to lock the wheels with two more mini linear actuators. The driveline is designed in such way that the arm can swing a bit while cornering: The lifting arm had to be designed to be as strong as possible, yet thin enough to slide under the car we want to tow. The final version was under 2 studs high and capable of lifting a 2 kilogram heavy model with ease: With all the details finalized and the parts omptimized in the LDD version, it was time to build the real deal: As mentioned above, the model is full of details that can be accessed by opening the various compartments: The rear view showing the folded tow arm and the 2 large actuators used to lift it: Few more pictures of the model next to the real deal: Of course no Technic photoshoot wouldn't be complete with the most important photo of them all, the underside: The underside was left open and exposed intentionally, so that the gearbox, the differential locks and steering system can be observed. Of course as with all the projects, this one also had some issues, the biggest being the use of 3x11 curved panels as the rear leaf springs. Originally only a single pair was used to support the weight in the rear and the additional load of a towing vehicle, but it soon proved too much for them and over time they ended up breaking. That is why for the final fix, they were doubled, to increase the stiffness and durabilty of the rear axle: Other than this, there were no other major issues with the model. The driveline has yet to skip a gear, the joints are holding (even the small CV joint used in the front left side) and the model ended up being robust enough for some really rough driving. As mentioned at the start of the topic, this is one of my best models to date, I'm really happy with the amount of sheer functionality, features and details I managed to cram in it and it will forever hold a special place in my heart. To wrap up this already long topic, here's a couple of videos of it in action:

Agreed. I would use a 2x4 L arm liftarm or a perpendicular connector with a towball pin (like 42099's steering arm) to raise the point of the steering arms and to give the steering system extra leverage and stiffness. Remember, the longer the steering arms, the more stable the system and less slack which can cause issues or overload the steering motor. If possible also use double steering racks, that's what I do with my 1:10 and 1:8 cars where there's simply no space to for longer steering arms.

Another awesome mini trial truck! Well done inded. The only negative side I see is that due to the very low axle gearing (actually 1:1) you have some serious effect of the driveline on the suspension. The only way to avoid that would be to have motors mounted on the axle themselves, or to power them from another angle such as from the top.

Can you post some photos? It's really hard to respond from plain text.