Zerobricks

First time hearing about such issue. Your child broke all latches on all ports? The connectors are soldered to the PCB at 6 points, so replacing them is not easy... I think this question is better to be posted on support mail.

You can tune centering parameters in the center steering module, I would increase the deadbandout boost to help overcome the sticktion. You have to play around a bit with the settings sometimes.

Glad it works for you now. Those angular motors seem to need more power to start turning, which makes sense, as they are less efficient according to Philo's measuerments. If your BuWizz gets stuck in a bootloader mode (flashing or rtating red lights) try rebooting and updating again.

Try increasing the calibration power if the output isn't turning.

It does, but make sure to mechanically limit the axle movement for it to calibrate properly. Again, make sure to mechanically limit the axle movement for it to calibrate properly. The motor can't find a center position without end limits. The angle you are referring to is the reduction of the whole range once calibrated. I suggest you look at the user guide and support videos. The number of gears/positions is automatically calculated according to the end limits. If end limits are around 90 degrees, than 2 gears, 180 degrees 3 gears and 270 degrees 4 gears. The angle is 90 degrees, since the gearbox module is designed to work with a wave selector. I don't think there should be any affect on that, but it depends a lot on the mobile device.

I'm a bit late to reply, but what a unit of a model! How does the sliding gearbox setup work compared to using the usual shift rings? Are there no issues woth gears not aligning and jamming or crunching? I feel a couple of 7x11 frames might help you reinforce and clean up the axles. Whey are you not locking the differentials directly? How about uisng the ones from the Tiger 6x6? Their steering pivot point is a stud further offset, but they do use the wheel bearing which should improve the sagging. Also they can be modified to use the new larger CV joints instead of U joints for higher torque and steering angle. I think this is a good project, but I feel like the chassis/driveline can be done cleaner, stronger and more efficient and I'm willing to help you along if you want to. No criticism of the bodywork though, it's really smooth and I like the use of classic studded bricks at front sides for more detailing.

There should be a public beta avilable in the Google Play store, only Android for now.

Good news! There should be a public beta version of the app available over the weekend with the following updates: Firmware update for BuWizz 3.0 with current limiters - Fixing the issue with BuWizz shutting off when overloaded Gearbox module - Allows you to use any PU servo motor to control a wave selector for 2, 3 and 4 positions Improved Bluetooth library and connectivity - automatically recentering motors when loosing connection, etc... Added support for even more PU motors including the Mindstorms Robot Inventor medoum angular motor, Spike small angular motor, etc... Added support for multiple PU steering and gearbox motors More info will be available in the upcoming newsletter. Personally I've put in a lot of work, trial and error in order to find and set the default current and ramp settings. I had to find a balance between providing enough power to the motors while limiting the current and power spikes enough not to overload the BuWizz brick. The tests included all kinds of models varying from the AWD Mustang, Universal offroader, Wildcat 6x6 and 1:10 Acura NSX, 42099 with BuWizz motors MOD, Motorized 42054 FORD GT and more. Basically the models were driven forwards/backwards with full power with their currents being monitored. Usually the faster and heavier the model, the higher the current spikes produced. From these tests I carefully chose the default values for the PF ports of the BuWizz 3.0 as 2.0 A with a Ramp up/down time of 0,13 s and 1.0 A with 0 s ramp time for PU ports. The slight ramp/up down for PF ports time is needed since the current limiters take a few miliseconds to respond, but in real-life it's not really noticable. Of course the user can adjust the current limiters and ramp times as they please. I hope this update will resolve most of the issues with the BuWizz 3.0 and add more of the wanted functionality. Personally I'm really happy that now I can drive my models with full power without worrying about overloads.

That would be an illegal connection.

We are talking about tyres? Those are a bit trickier to print, but sure, I can see what I can do. Please send me a private message.

Here's a video tutorial on how to replace the BuWizz 3.0's battery/reset it: Regarding support I am the person providing tech support when possible and I have a good knowledge of what features are wanted and needed. I created detailed plans for features ranging from current limiters, connection loss behavior, advanced modules and controller support, constant speed modules, RPM and speed meters just to mention a few. I can post a full list when I return back from vacation.

Ain't she a beauty. Well done indeed, having a seperate body is simply icing on the cake. Btw, maybe you could do a raptor Bronco version which is much wider and could use independent front suspension, you might need an additional U joint or small cc joints for it though.

Exactly, a CV with a 1,5 stud axle would be so useful, you could use it to make suspension arms only 4 studs long. I have no idea why they didn't just make a half version and use an axle joiner. Seems like they didn't really think much ahead and were only looking at the current solution. Not to mention new wheels with a 1 stud deeper offset would negate the need for a new part alltogether and would probably look better than the current (2001) design.

It's like this one I 3D printed a couple of weeks ago:

There's a video available here. At 0:42 you can see the green 20 tooth straight clutch gear, which should be a welcome addition to the one from the Airbus. The driveline is basically same as the 42093.

They are in Dark Bluish gray, you can see them at the top at 2:19.. They are directly between seats and hold the engine in place.

Well done! I was sure these models were too small to be properly motorized, but you proved me wrong.

It's needed for the spoiler mechanism. Personally I'm going to wait for a proper review before giving my final opinion.

I was a bit distant lately due to personal issues and stress, but I always try to give a proper reply where possible. Thanks for seeing it from this point. Like I sad I've been trying to get these things fixed as much as I can, but utlimately I'm not the CEO. Only "advertising" I've been doing of lately was showcasing my own personal models which use BuWizz components. Exactly, people ask me all the time when things will move be fixed on Youtube, in personal messages, on Whatsapp, etc... and it's simply overwhelming. Please know that my role is to build models and give tech support. All the E-mails you sent, I forwarded and that's all I can do, since I'm not qualified to reply about business decisions. I personally tested it in Friday and it seems to be working really good. We also updated the Bluetooth library, app update should be in a week or two, I hope. Also, the new version supports mutiple steering motors, so I can't wait to build a monster truck or a telehandler or such. My apologizies if I left a bad impression. The product itself is objectively good, though it has shortcomings which can (and should have been already) fixed. I totally understand that people are (rightfully) pissed about the lack of updates. Trust me, I want the fixes too, I have to deal with them every day while using the products and replying to all the support tickets. For now I can give you recommendations and tips on how to reduce the probability of overloading the BuWizz 3.0 for example, by introducing a ramp time, slightly reducing the power in the power curves and by watching that the sum of currents doesn't go over 7A.

That's a known LDD issue when using custom parts. Even if the Building mode did work, it wouldn't be much help with such an interconnected build.

The axle joiner goes inside the ball joint. Regarding missplaced bricks, try opening the file with collisions disabled. More info here: https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/151152-ldd-developer-mode/

Also just finished mine and was pleasantly surprised at the complexity. So many odd techniques, half a stud offsets and celever solutions. Also almost none-existing color coding, can't remember the last set that had so many similar parts like 1x2, 1x3 and 1x4 liftarms in same colors. To sum it up, a very detailed and mature set.

Completely normal. Have a look at this video:

I noticed the same: I think it's due to the different lengths of suspension arms and steering linkage and the sheer grip of the tyres. Also, the massive lifted rear suspension stance pushes the front wheels to toe out even more.

Bit of a bump, but just realized that the Small Angular Motor actually has a safety clutch.