Zerobricks

Very original. Well done!

I meant the curvature- radius, not length. I know the length doesn't fit at all, it's only 9 studs long and panel is 13-2.

I think it should fit the curvature of the 3x13 curved panel.

Oh, wow, nice find! They do look a bit like counterweights!

Nice braces

Thank you for these updates, in my opinion this is one of the better modern sets and I enjoy reliving it through your perspective.

Or you can use cam pieces, which are literally designed for such applications.

Having a generator and a bunch of LED lights would be the best showcase of electric power in my opinion.

As promised: 0x38 Set current limits Setups current limits for the motors. By default, the current limits are configured to default values of 1.5 A (for PU ports 1-4) and 3.0 A (for PF ports 5-6) on every BLE connection start. If the motor current is above the current limit, the PWM duty cycle of the affected motor is reduced until the current falls below the limit. PWM duty cycle will increase if the motor load is reduced. Byte Function / value 0 (command) 0x38 - Set current limit data 1-6 Current limit in steps of 30 mA No response is generated

That's why it's a test and beta update, originally we thought 3 A and 1,5 A would be good enough, but real life testing showed we needed to lower them. I'm not sure if there will be another FW version just to have lowered default values, when it's really easy to just set them to any value with a single command. I'm not totally sure, but I think you have to disable LUT for limiters to work, but the FW remembers the value regardless. PF servo motor uses PWM lines only to get positions and is actually powered by the other 2 PF lines just like the PF receiver which have a direct power supply only. That is why you will not see any current usage when using a PF servo. Yes, I already requested it to be updated and uploaded to support site before the public release. But to speed up the developing, tomorrow I can look up the command and put it here

Current limits are saved in the app profile. There are also default current limits implemented in FW, but they are higher - set at 3,0 A for PF and 1,5 a for PU. Edit: FW does remember the current limits, but you have to disable LUT (Look Up Table for PF servo positions).

Yes, it's possible at 1:8 scale, but the Peugeot is 1:10 scale, so there's much less space. I'm not saying it's impossible, but you also have to take into considiration the space needed for differential, steering, the very low bodywork, etc... Also the final result has to be durable, reliable and easy to build.

If you look at the real suspension in more detail, you will see standard shock absorbers won't work, because one the shock absorbers has to deal with pushing AND pulling, depending on which side the car tilts. I tried a setup like this a while ago and it's really massive, too big for a 1:10 car: I think the designer did an excellent work given the limitations, the setup looks very close to the original.

From what I was able to gather BuWizz 3.0 indeed uses Bluetooth 5.4 and we will look into the requested lower level commands for an even higher control distance. Regarding Center steering and gearbox parameters I can choose the parameters I usually change from my experience (Kp, DeadBandOut, DeadBandOutBoost and Reference Limit) and add aditional description for them. Others can be left hidden for custom. Regarding motor detection and presets, yes the BuWizz does know what device is connected to it (there's an idea to have a photo of the devices connected shown in the app), but creating centering presets for each motor is really difficult if we don't know what's attached to it. I would kindly like to ask for feedback regarding current limiters, did anyone have any more issues with BuWizz 3.0 shutting off when driving and reversing at full power? That was one of the biggest complaints and I trully hope it's resolved now.

I'd say 7x11 frame. It's good to see some new innovation with the front suspnsion and AWD. But I'm afraid there is no functioning suspension in the rear?

Well done! It looks straight from the show. Do you have photos of the physical build too?

Took a few hours to create a showcase my biggest, heaviest and most functional battlebot that was made for the 2023 ROLUG winter competition named Octan(e). Since the rules placed the mimimum weight at 2 kg, I saw an opportunity to fill the bot with as much power and functionality as possible. In the end I gave it not only a motorized ramp, but rotating wheels which are used to transfer the opponent's weight onto my bot, thereby giving me a traction advantage in the battle ring. Since the super soft drive wheels and tyres from 8448 are the tallest point of the bot, it can drive even when flipped over. Finally the bot is made to be mechanically as strong as possible, utilizing a lot of interconnected frames and simillar building techniques. Even though the entire model is built out of only 1395 pieces (slightly less than the 42154 Ford GT), it still ended up measuring a massive 40,5 x 32,0 x 8,0 cm and weighing a bit over 2 kilograms. More info in the video below:

While it looks good, i think any brick-built version at 1:10 scale is going to be really heavy. Just look at how heavy the current lineup of Creator Expert models is and they are only 1:17 scale. I think this will be another fun model to motorize, I'm planning to give it AWD of it has none originally.

As far as I remember the Daytona's rear suspension arms are 5L long which means that they should have used a in universal joint with a combination of a normal CV joint to have them 5L long. But since the suspension angles are really low, haivng them 6L long in a 5L assembly doesn't matter much. Yes, the diff is still a mystery to me too, maybe it was for a cencelled project? I heard rumors the planetary hubs had a simillar story, being designed for Defender originally and than repurposed for other models. And yes, the new hub would have to be like the planetary hub, though the axle hole for steering could be a bit different. Having a crosshole is great to mount brake pads and such, but having a double one like the planetary ones can limit the suspension travel of the steering link. If there only was a way to have an ungeared hub that accepts the new CV but in this size: It's not possible, new CV joint head is 8 mm compared to the 5 mm of the old one, no space for the bearing. Back on topic regarding the set, I see the designers heard the "Rally Ferrari" criticism and gave this model really low suspension travel, especially the front looks like about half a stud. I don't understand why they are using the normal wheels instead of Defender ones though, I know neither is a perfect fit, but I'd prefer the Defender ones because of their deeper mounting point. I think aesthetically the best wheels would be from 42056, but those are a bit too big for 1:10 scale.

Any chance to see the new technic panels, wheel arches and the double-headed CV joint? 2509: 3538: 2438: 2442: 2405: I would really like to complete my motorized version of the 42054

Except that the Daytona did actually use the new CV type for the inner joint along with the super strong diff. A gear-less wheel hub with new CV joints would not only be stronger than normal, but allow higher steering angles, since the new type of CV can go all the way up to 40 degrees compared to 25 of the normal one. One can dream though...

I know, no worries As for your question I'm the only person doing such tests and it's not so simple, since each use case is very different. That is why I made the 3 default center steering presets. For example a PU XL motor has very low internal friction and needs much less power to turn than the medium angular motor. Also the way the motors are used in the models matters a lot: Are they using a direct gearing to the gear rack or is there additional gearing down? What size is the gear controlling the steering rack? How long are the steering arms, since they act as levers? What's the weight of the model, the more weight, the higher force you need? What's the weight of the wheel and their intertia so that the system doesn't fall into the a positive feedback loop and starts oscilating? Even if we look at the official 42114 model it had problems with the steering oscilating and that model's profile was fine tunded to that very model.

Indeed, second photo shows more details. The model seems to be 25 studs wide and uses the older style rims which have no inner offset. Unfortunately seems like the new 5L double CV axle will not be needed in this model unless it's actually 23 studs side. It's nice we get more pieces in neutral colors such as fenders and panels. Also notice the double rounded plane-nose type panel used for the roof on all 4 corners. Also 3x5 curved panel in same color used behind the cabin. And of course the 3x2 angled panel used in front. Lots of useful recolors.

That explains the recent reintroduction of the 4L bar that glows in the dark. I do wonder if it will have proper AWD though.

I understand your just want to plug in and play. But on the other hand we also have people asking for more complex functionality and programming options like the gearbox module going 1000+ degrees for each gear above. Can't and never will be able to please everyone, no matter how much I try.