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Zerobricks

Eurobricks Archdukes
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Everything posted by Zerobricks

  1. Zerobricks
    Well, the price would be more acceptable for 150 cm. Also such height does warrant the development of new pieces, but can't say the same for only 100 cm.
  2. Zerobricks
    The module automatically calculates number of gear positions according to the calibration angle. 90 degrees 2 positions 180 3 positions, 270 4 positions. Just make sure that the motor drives the wave selector as direct as possible, any gears and offsets can make it work less accurate.
  3. Zerobricks
    This is a known issue, but it's not quite known what causes it, it's very random. For me what helps is usually turning the motor by 90 degrees or simply remaking the profile. Also current limits help in such cases, so if you're only using a motor to turn the wave selector you can go as low as some 100 mA.
  4. Zerobricks
    The bug with gauges showing weird values is known and we're working on a fix. Meanwhile we fixed the issue with medium angular motors, so now they can draw the needed current to work properly. Next step is iOS version and a full release.
  5. Zerobricks
    The new A-arm frame is available in reddish brown in the 71799 Ninjango City Markets, as a bridge support.
  6. Zerobricks
    I agree, Audi would be a better fit too IMO. I see no sense of using adder mechanism for any model, it's very inefficient and unrealistic. Back to topic, I think the model uses a stronger CV joint instead of a U joint inside the articulation point.
  7. Zerobricks
    Small update. I actually built a model that uses this motor for center steering and also noticed an issue, which I will of course be forwarding to the dev to have it fixed. This motor needs a lot of current just to start turning let alone do some useful work (over 75% PWM). There is something limiting the current the BuWizz can put out (it's not the current limiters) in the beta version to a maximum of 400 mA in the center steering module. I'm glad this issue was found and will be fixed.
  8. Zerobricks
    I see the reason, they used the yellow, stronger diff. The front axle does not use the usual 5x7 frame to hold the diff and gear in place and without it a normal diff would probably skip if overloaded. Also the A frames are exactly 16 modules long, I think the flip flop beam is just attached in the bottom and uses a half pin somewhere to keep it centered on the A frame's... frame.
  9. Zerobricks
    Also features differential-based suspension. I think it should be able to partially fold too.
  10. Zerobricks
    Been thinking a bit more about this project and connecting the 2 rear axles will be tricky and a weak point, since the propshafts can slide out when the axles move up and down. How about using a bit of an unusual solution, independent rear suspension with new CV joints and both axles connected like leaf suspension? When one wheel goes up, the other goes down in tandem. This would give you an emulation of a solid axle without having to worry about driveaxles popping out. And you can have the rear axles locked without a diff in order to have suspension arms as long as possible. I don't think steering would be major issue as long as you have a central and front differential with lockers.
  11. Zerobricks
    Also I suggest you orient the motors longitudally on the axles and use the red diff with a combination of 28 gears to drive the planetary hubs. Also a diff lock activated via wave selector. To lock diffs you can use a centralized system which locks them all, or use a motor for it's own axle like I did with my Wildcat's 6x6 gearbox motors. Might be a good idea to have seperate axle and central lock, sometimes you just need a central lock to help climb up without losing the mobility of whole axle locks.
  12. Zerobricks
    Thanks. Yes, 3 XL is doable, but nothing more that for now (FW update with current limits is in the works).
  13. Zerobricks
    Personally i would connect the rear axles fixed together on let's say rear drive-axle. Than I'd use a differential to connect the front and rear drive-axles to drive the fake engine. And you can lock the same diff so the rear and front axles can help each other. Just my 2 cents.
  14. Zerobricks
    I suggest using Bricksafe, or Youtube.
  15. Zerobricks
    Nice MOD. Only thing I would suggeest is to try to move the basket attachment point so it's more centered and balanced.
  16. Zerobricks
    You really outdid yourself (yet again), Milan! It's so refreshing to see a motorized non-vehicular and a dynamic, even poseable large-scale action figure! Also love how the well the rotors simply just fit! If you got an UV lamp, you could make those eyes really glow, just my 2 cents!
  17. Zerobricks
    This reminds me of the leaked Zetros photo (white and green one) which was just a quckly thrown together 6x6 prototype and the final release was very much different. Wait for official media before you pick up pitchforks and torches, people!
  18. Zerobricks
    Could be a bug with importing. Try reimporting or in worst case remaking the affected profile.
  19. Zerobricks
    I did some comparison between the shape of 64448, 64449 city crane lattices and they don't really match the shapes of the structure on the crane. So I'm hoping for new parts which hopefully have a better way of connecting than axles. EDIT: Anyone else notices the 1:5 motorcycle front shock absorbers being used as cylinders in the back? Also the red details look like red 5x7 frames to me, which means new lattices are 7 studs wide.
  20. Zerobricks
    You can still make it a 6x6 with 3 motors, one per axle and you can connect them together via locks so they can help each other and also drive a possible fake engine.
  21. Zerobricks
    What about using the planetary hubs with Defender's rims? That should give you a nice low scrub radius and you can use old 6,5 L suspension arms on top and 6L ones on bottom angled up to get a very high ground clearance.
  22. Zerobricks
    Also what's keeping your shock absorbers from sliding off the axles?
  23. Zerobricks
    Looking good, but I wouldn't trust the U-joints to switch on diffs so directly, I would give it a higher ratio or use wave selectors.
  24. Zerobricks
    How about taking the rear axle apart and rebuilding it?
  25. Zerobricks
    Like I said in the previous post, I'd use the brick-built portal axles to get the steering pivot closer to the wheels. Also use the 7x11 frames and contain the differential inside them along with the lock. If you are worried about the differential slippoing, I'd suggest using a 28 tooth gear to drive it, or the ones from the Daytona. I would also use the new 12 tooth straight gears for steering, since t hey have less slack. Also use big CV joints instead of U-joints which may fail at high torque.
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