Zerobricks

Buttons, speed controls and gearbox selectors will be supported on next release, we currently focused on basic driving (analog joysticks). I just tested it and it works okay on my end. May I recommend remaking the profile?

Agreed, we would probably need an even stronger load-bearing hub with a more secure attachment system than just 3 pins. Perhaps some perpendicular holes to the wheels and axles passing through them, so that the wheels can't get detached by any means. I used a similar technique using turtnatbles and custom wheels for Daytona motorization as original wheels kept falling off hubs.

I got the 42161 Lamborgini Tecnica as a reward for the previous TC and while the original build is okay, i wanted to give it more life. Lately the lifter supercars have been very popular, so why not modify this little set into one? The project is actually a spiritual succesur to the Mustang GTEX AWD mod but with several improvements: Improved front wheel bearing using the bigger, stronger CV joint Independent left and right wheel drive for skid steering ability Higher gear ratio for more torque Improved weight distribution by placing the BuWizz 3.0 in the front Easirer access to charging Of course, the original dimensions, interrior, seat placements, etc was preserved, but I did the following aesthetic modifications which reflect the Sterrato version: Lifted the entire body by half a stud Redesigned front with a skid plate, LED headlights on top of frunk Added a body kit using 3,2 mm cables Redesigned the rear bumper with a wider skid plate Reduced spoiler size and shape Added the engine covers Added a roof rack and air scoop So here's how the model looks in LDD: The AWD independent driveline was one of the biggest challenges, it has to be simple, reliable, yet compact enough to fit into the limited space The motors are geared down 5/3 from the slower outputs and than the drive is carried to the front via U joints and bevel gears. Also notice how the L motor for steering is squeezed between the both BuWizz motors, the packaging is very compact. And of course theory will only get you so far, so I also built the thing IRL, here's a WIP photo: And the finished Lamborghini Sterrato: Everything works as planned, the model has a lot of torque and can easily skid steer without issues. I'm also really proud of the aesthetics, it looks so much more rugged and agressive compared to the original. I will post better photos and a video in the coming days, so please stay tuned.

Thanks, a dedicated topic would be awesome and I got more to share soon. And remember more or less every new piece LEGO develops starts as a 3D printed part, you can even see them sometimes on pre-release photos like Bolide micro panels

How about create a polybag competition for next? Simple, fun, not many party needed and should be very open to anyone.

One question for the mods. Is talking about 3D printed parts okay here? I'm waiting to get my hands on the 24 tooth clutch gear and shorter gearbox shift rings, but meanwhile I just designed and printed my own versions for testing:

Well done, good idea using L motors and clutch gears instead of hard-to-find servo motor for steering. How would you rate performance compared to the PU one?

Glad you found it. I think it's also worth to mention that PS4 controller actually partially also works on the current beta app, might be worth a try for those who have it.

I don't understand what is a scroll bar in this context? I'd recommend just use L2/R2 for throttle and both joypads for steering, one for each steering slider?

You can mount a wheel directly on them for simpler, more accurate and more robust attachment/bearing.

The thing is, it's the battery protection which shuts down, it's not a command sent by the electronics board. Also undervoltage can casuse the protection to shut down too. I recommend lowering the current use for now.

Nice and simple. Good idea using tracks as tractor wheels.

Make sure you use the lastest app and firmware which already have implemented current limits, which you can also adjust individually.

I noticed the same, the straight 12 tooth gear CAN touch a 16 tooth clutch gear 2 studs apart and also had to use a bevel version for my project. Also clutch 16 tooth gears are every so slightly larger than normal 16 tooth gears, so there is such issue with a normal 16 tooth gear.

I think recoloring 3L pins to dark blue would be a compromise. There are also some things that can be confused in this system like example with 4519, 77765, 65249 all available in same, gray color.

Thank you. That explains the smaller diameter, there will probably be an application where such clearance is needed.

Since the new ring now has a smaller diameter than the normal 3L ring, can a 16 tooth gear spin next to the new ring when placed on a 3L beam? Can someone test?

Thank you for the praise Alex. Indeed, it was a pleasure, lots of fun and I also learned a lot. Hope to be able to visit again soon.

Decided to make longer video than usual, going into details of each model, showing how well they performed and what I learned form this competition. There's also a bonus, fifth model showcased which was built before the rules were finalized. LDD fles of all the models can be downloaded here: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Zblj/rtxp-2023

The motors are only a stud offset and they are mostly compensated by the steering mechanism and wheel being on the other side. No issues with alignment. Drifter was deisgned with more weight in front, I think it's around 60:40 or so. Yeah... Many people steal without credit, I also find many youtube video ID matches, but I can't really dispute them without giving YouTube all of my private information.

Thank you for the heads-up! And no, that is not my account, so it's obviously stolen without any credit...

Thanks for the praise. Regarding the Small Angular Motor, it works great for this model due to the very low weight and large steering arms. The motor has it's own internal clutch gear to keep it from overload which is triggered if blocked at full power. But since I'm using a Center Steering Module with a Light preset, there have been no issues so far. Also it's usually the current that kills motors, not the voltage and that can easily be limited in the app.

It came out really great! Congratulations, hope to see it in real lifr one day, Also I see you flipped the tyres, is there any difference in performance?

I guess I will continue the Rolug theme and showcase my models that I built for the 2023 Rolug summer competition: First model is a mini racer built for the... well mini racers competition, Features: - Rear wheel drive driven by 2x PF L motors - Steering controlled by a PU L motor - Powered by a BuWizz 3.0 - Brick-build fake V8 engine - Opening doors - Built out of 530 pieces I placed the BuWizz in the front to try keep the weight evenly spaced on both axles, but unfortunately, the car keps oversteering and spinning out under power in the slippery corners. Placing weight more towards back might help, but I suspect it would cause it to underteer a lot. In the future I will make such racers AWD for best possible traction. Second model is a mini trial truck, in this case a 4x4 pickup with pendular front suspension. I managed to cram everything into a really compact and robust form factor, thanks to the use of the Mini Angular Motor for front steering Features: - All Wheel Drive driven by a single PF L motor - Steering controlled by a PF small angular motor - Pendular front suspension - The sides can easily be opened to access the BuWizz 3.0 which powers the model - Built out of 339 pieces I'm really happy with the performance with this one, it's fast, robust and quite manueverable. I also learned that it seems balloon tyres migth be more suitable on hard surfaces comapred to these small and hard tractor tyres. Third model is a utility Terrain Vehicle with AWD, suspension, working steering wheel, fake engine, and manually tiltable bed. Features: - All Wheel Drive powered by 2 PF L motors - Steering powered by a PF servo motor - Fake inline 3 cylinder engine powered by the rear PF L motor - Steering wheel connected to the steering mechanism - Independent suspension on all wheels - The rear bed can be opened and tlted to dump - Powered by the LiPo battery and controlled by a PF V2 receiver - Built out of 777 pieces I'm really happy how well it performed, especially the fact it's powered by the LEGO 8778 LiPo battery box, which has very low power output comapred to the BuWizz. And finally the 1:12 scale 90's Japanese style inspired drift car Features: - Rear Wheel Drive powered by 2x BuWizz motors - Steering controlled by a PU L motors - Fake V6 engine powered by 2x BuWizz motors - Steering wheel connected to the steering mechanism - Independent suspension on all wheels - Openable gullwing doors - Powered by a BuWizz 3.0 positioned in the very front - Built out of 1027 pieces Unfortunately simillar to the mini racer, the model turned out to eb too hard to control on slippery floor, so next time I will probably upgrade to AWD with independent motors for front and rear drive for best control. All the model files can be downloaded here, but you need to use the community updated LDD with collisions disabled: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Zblj/rtxp-2023 As for the competition I somehow ended up second, which is much better than expected. But what matters to me most was to spend a very good time with my Romanian friends, to learn and to be active in this awesome community.

Thanks for the tip, I will probably procure some. As far as I know, not it does make sense, since the controller is an input. For now I'd say increase sleep time. You can trigger same slider with any digital or analog butons. And each slider can control multiple outputs at once. I don't think that's possible, since the PF powered motors have no feedback - how will you know if the vegicle is really stopped?