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pleegwat

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by pleegwat

  1. It would make some sense if the C+ smart hub was a straight drop-in replacement for the simple technic battery box.
  2. Alternative to handrails would probably be rods and tubes instead of axles, but I'm only aware of a limited inventory of similarly slim connectors for these. I also think the base of the LAs is too large, and this contributes to me getting the feeling the wheelbase is too short.
  3. Would clash with the panel above it.That gap isn't 2 studs high, it's about 1.5 studs.
  4. It looks to me like he used motorcycle rims without tires. If playability was an objective, this would probably need to be redesigned to work on standard lego tracks. I don't think the hand-build track style used could accommodate corners. That said, it looks awesome.
  5. I can't imagine the brake disk not being coupled to the axle, and if it is a clutch connection doesn't make sense.
  6. Obviously, you'd have to pick an appropriate distance. This is a 2¼ studs between axles setup with 6 speeds, if you swapped in all the appropriate clutch gears. Sure, it's long, but I don't think it actually uses more volume than they're expending on gearboxes currently. (And a 7th gear needs a 4z or 32z gearwheel. Or a more complex setup.)
  7. As the 'real sian' sketch shows, you don't really need 8z or 12z clutch gears if you can instead clutch on the 20z or 24z gears on the other side. Rather, you'd probably want to add a 28z clutch gear in addition to a 24z one to make 7 ratios. And then the next size up is 32z which AFAIK doesn't exist even in non-clutch version.
  8. I'm pretty sure the lever mechanism in the base model is asymmetric that way.
  9. It would reduce or remove the friction between the two. Whether that speeds up the already-rotating worm gear depends on the nature of the motor rotating it - if that source manages its RPM to a constant rate and has plenty of power, the worm gear probably won't speed up.
  10. Lego compressor pumps take in outside air, and air escapes through the three-way valves if they are not in the center position. I think I read once (during my dark age) of someone who ran fluid in lego pneumatics, and that was difficult because of those two points of outside interaction. He basically had to submerse the compressor pump's intake valve in a liquid bath, and make sure all three-way switches were in or above that bath as well. You could set up a closed loop system if you don't use compressors or valves, but then all you'd be able to do is synchronise the movement of two or more cylinders. That probably does have applications.
  11. Regular cars with four-wheel steering are pretty uncommon in the real world too.
  12. The actuator location is a tradeoff. Putting the base of the actuator further forward limits the maximum boom elevation the actuator can reach. Using the new XL LA allows the base of the actuator to be further forward and still reach the same boom elevation.
  13. The nice thing about using a belt rather than a plate for the sequence is that the sequence can loop. Though I guess it would be possible to implement a 'rewind' mechanism.
  14. There is an exception to that in the old crown gear: A crown gear can mesh with a spur gear at 90°. https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=3650b#T=C
  15. I don't like the way the lower end of the LA is mounted, but I must admit I can't come up with an alternative offhand.
  16. It probably depends a lot on the size of your collection, and how well you keep it sorted. Also by necessity the parts don't come very well-sorted in the original box. I'm pretty sure I've seen people here mention they sort parts by originating set. This also limits how much other sorting you can do.
  17. 42061's kind of off-scale though. I want to say 42094 but I think it's too wide. 42079 maybe? That's wheeled, but doesn't look like the kind of vehicle that would drive long-distance under its own power.
  18. Barely. Distance would be 1.5 studs center-to-center. Additionally lego worm gears don't lend themselves to being back-driven very well; they tend to move on their axles instead. Maybe, instead of using worm gears, it might be possible to use normal gears on blue friction axle-pins instead?
  19. Obviously, the pivot point would have to be between the ball joints, or you need extra pivots in the axle which seems undesirable.
  20. You'll also note that the yellow 20 teeth gear driving each differential is in the back. The main drive axle runs above the rear differential and connects down the back. Normally, the 'differentials the other way around' rule applies because one differential is driven from the front, while the other is driven from the back.
  21. He did state it looks the same from the other side. It's also possible the pins are not full pins, but half pins. In that case the 6x1 beams would barely be kept in place and easily pulled out. EDIT: Yup, that can definitely be assembled. And is tricky to pull apart, because the stud side has a better friction lock than the pin side.
  22. That'd move the 6x1's closer together, not further apart. I'd bet at one of the 4x1's actually being 2 2x1's.
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