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pleegwat

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by pleegwat

  1. pleegwat
    The 3l diff is tricky enough to assemble. The 4l inline one is worse. And I think 9+ is a lower target age than usual? They may have wanted to introduce a preassembled diff to simplify the build.
  2. pleegwat
    I think it needs some colour in the back.
  3. pleegwat
    Doesn't look that bad to me. Can the superstructure be less wide?
  4. pleegwat
    I haven't encountered the problem myself, but you could look into moving the carriers at the top further towards the end of the track and/or including a tensioner (like in 42094A)
  5. pleegwat
    The up against the wall test has it tip at 72°
  6. pleegwat
    Could you replace that bush with a 3l beam fixed on both sides?
  7. pleegwat
    There was some disagreement whose photo moment this was. It works pretty well when using stickered pieces too.
  8. pleegwat
    Just built it. Didn't run into any problems, and it's working perfectly.
  9. pleegwat
    Haven't we previously also seen in X-rays that the new L and XL have near-identical internals?
  10. pleegwat
    Or at least not as many of them. It being about modelling also explains C'T's involvement - it's a computer magazine.
  11. pleegwat
    If you're going to be using hubs, why not jump directly to the planetary one? Note if you use a portal hub, then the final drive still moves through a normal axle with associated deformation risks. In the stock model, the final 12-36 and 28-36 gearings are reinforced with pins. A quick check does confirm you can snap a hub onto a track wheel.
  12. pleegwat
    When using rotary catches, the two sides of one selector are by necessity 180° apart, so you'd want 1 and 3 on one catch and 2 and 4 on the other. The pairing used here would be suitable if you wanted to make an 'H-shaped' manual gearbox, rather than a sequential one.
  13. pleegwat
    @Touc4nxThat's just the 2*sqrt(2) distance.
  14. pleegwat
    I used smooth pebbles with my BWE and it worked much better than the lego pieces, at least partially because pebbles are much less bouncy.
  15. pleegwat
    The cylinders work in pairs, and the pairs couild share tubes which would move the minimum down to 2 tubes per pair. Lego models with paired pneumatic cylinders typically do this in some fashion, but I expect any real machine would control them individually for improved stability control. Some GIS gives me the impression the actual machine uses four hoses per cylinder - two at the base, and two in the middle (where the narrow and wide part slide between each other). On some cylinders, the hose to the midpoint of the cylinder runs along the cylinder itself, so all four connect to the base of the cylinder first.
  16. pleegwat
    First we're afraid of not enough gears in this set, now we're complaining there's too many?
  17. pleegwat
    Could also be a complex pneumatic set.
  18. pleegwat
    Damn, how many 3x11 white panels are in that? I've only got 7.
  19. pleegwat
    Doing a mini engine style would be relatively easy since you just have to align the 2l beam which pushes up the cylinder. If you use the standard pulley wheel (with 6 holes at 60° separation) you could put it between cylinders and get 1.5 studs per cylinder for a slightly larger mini-engine. A full engine would be trickier since it needs to be rigid, and you need a full stud of axle for the piston to move on. All I can think of offhand (based on the tri-axle connector) quickly pushes you toward 3 or more studs per cylinder. And I think I only own two tri-axle connectors anyway.
  20. pleegwat
    @kbalage mentions in his video that the engine runs a bit irregular - I think that's probably unavoidable in a 6-cilinder micro engine as there is more load from the engine when it's pushing up a cylinder, and it's not pushing up cylinders at a constant rate (1, 1, 2, 2 or 1, 2, 1, 2 every 90°, rather than 2 every 120°). It would be interesting to see if we can come up with a fix for that.
  21. pleegwat
    I've certainly seen various brick sorting machines pass by on youtube over the years. Particularly sorting axles or beams on length is straightforward to do mechanically.
  22. pleegwat
    I think this is 13 studs? Designed for a daf YA-328 moc that never really got off the ground. I'm not too happy with it. The worm gear drive requires motorization to work at all which I'm not sure if I've got the room for, and since the connection between the two sides is an axle it sags all kinds of wrong. My solution for the front axle (not pictured) is even worse.
  23. pleegwat
    I hadn't even considered keeping it out entirely. I guess it may be giving some counter-force to keep the differential in place as it turns, but then why didn't they do the same at the front axle?
  24. pleegwat
    Looking into building the pimp up my bugatti version, I'm short a 20t clutch gear. Knowing the standard build and verifying in the pimped instructions, there is one next to the rear differential which can be easily freed up - it's sitting on a 3l non-friction pin, but I think that 3l frictionless pin can be replaced with a 2l axle on frictionless pin - the second unit of pin length isn't needed there. This is on book 1 page 7 step 3 of the pimped instructions. It might be worth including this change if a 1.6 version of the pimp up my bugatti is ever made, as the substituted parts are probably easier to source for most people.
  25. pleegwat
    Yes, I am indeed seeing the main work being cut off a bit. It's step 95 of the trailer. I was also surprised that this instruction manual was slightly smaller than all of my other ones.
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