pleegwat

It is a cascading series of differentials. Each 'bit' has the same structure: A switch, which either connects the axle to the motor or fixes it. A differential, with one side connecting to the switch, and the other to that 'bit' output The 'case' or 'barrel' of the differential is connected 1:1 to the next higher bit's output (so bit 2 output connects to bit 1 differential, bit 4 output connects to bit 2 differential, etc The final 'sign' bit does not have a differential, and connects to the previous bit's differential directly. All axles on the input side turn in the same direction. Each differential barrel turns in the same direction as the connected output. So use an intermediate gear or axle in both cases. The video shows a reasonable image at around 8:30. It's really all just one layer - the rest of the structure merely holds the switches in place.

I am, and on closer inspection even the label on the wall wart indicates it's AC. See my edit.

I have an official lego one, and what do you know - 11.8V. Alternating. EDIT: Did a further check, since this is an original control centre II from the 90s, I'm betting the wall wart is a simple coil transformer and nothing else - they probably put all the electronics including the regulator inside the device. Motor output is 9.3 volts without a motor connected, and a good 9.0 with one motor.

In a soccer ball, every vertex borders two hexagons and a pentagon. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Truncated_icosahedron

Wouldn't the steering axle obstruct the pendular suspension anyway? Have you considered using lever-based steering instead?

Having a tank between the pump and the switch would allow raising the suspension more quickly on demand. As you mention, probably not too useful. Having a tank between the switch and the working cylinders would increase the working volume of the suspension, making it weaker. Hence probably the suggestion to use one (or more) large cylinders instead of an air tank: you can couple these with a manual control and compressing the control cylinders would reduce the working volume, hardening the suspension. The ratio between minimum and maximum volume would also affect the force curve exerted by the working cylinders. The amount of force needed to compress the cylinder changes as the cylinder compresses, and the shape of that curve stays the same with increased pressure but changes if the volume changes. I'm not quite sure how noticeable that would be in practice though - I'm working off high school physics only.

You would just have a single communicating network between the cylinder bottoms, the compressor, and the relief valve. The tops of the suspension cylinders would be left open, since you won't be using the compressor to pull the wheels in. I suspect you'd run into the pressure limits of lego pneumatics rather than have this do anything useful, but I couldn't say for sure.

I checked and see you are indeed right - 4 Z14s is significantly more than a stud, though I don't think it's as much as 1.5. I don't know why I thought otherwise. I still think you need a quarter stud in that configuration ideally, since that matches the known good meshes with z24 or z8 straight gears.

Okay, taking a shot: For the left, starting from the left flag along the left side, 24:8:8 and 24:24 means the flag making a full rotation down means the orbit makes three full turns up. Along the right side, 28:12:28 means the flag making a full rotation down means the carrier also makes a full turn down. Googling a planetary gear calculator and putting the numbers in, this indeed gives me 13 turns on the sun. For the right, again starting at the left flag, 24:8, 24:8, 28:12:28 gives the flag making a full rotation down causes the differential case to make 9 full turns down. This means the average of the left and right differential inputs must also be 9 full turns down. The left side is fixed at one full turn down, so the right must make 17 turns down for the average to work out. Understanding the right-hand side makes it rather easy to adapt it into a 19:1 ratio: Simply invert the direction between the left flag and the left differential input while leaving the other ratios and directions the same.

I'm having trouble parsing the structure, let alone calculate the ratio, but I suspect the gear next to the big turntable in the 1:13 is a Z28 turntable connected to the carrier of the planetary system, the right crank is connected to the sun, and the left axle is connected to the orbit. The rest of the geartrain locks the carrier and the orbit in a fixed ratio. So the planetary system is not a simple 1:4 ratio which IIRC is what you'd get if the orbit was fixed.

I just checked - crown gear to z12 can be done in a 5x7 frame if you space the crown gear with an old z14 bevel gear since those are a quarter stud thick. The z12 then needs a simple half-stud of padding. This runs very smooth for me in an unloaded test.

The size is probably mostly in the AA batteries. I'm not overly surprised they're not using AAA batteries for technic, since I don't think they've ever done so in the past.

I expect since there are no gears with multiple of 11 teeth 11:1 can only be done using a differential. Same for all other further primes - they'll all need at least one differential.

This is an I6 I've actually built quite a while ago for a MOC that never really went anywhere. 1.5 studs per cylinder using the belt wheel: Excluding mounting brackets it's 9.5 studs long. It runs about as well as the regular small fake engine, since the key parts are the same.

That only divides the circle in 16, so the best you'd do is 5/5/6 division.

The hulls are a bit short on mounting options near the front. I suspect TLG would use L motors instead of buggy ones (probably lighter) and a technic or C+ BB (heavier than buwizz) so that'd help move the centre of mass forward. Also any amount of superstructure would allow to move the battery box further forward.

What we think of as spares is intended not just in case you lose one, but also in case the packing machine miscounts the number of items added to the bag. And you could easily send one flying into a corner during your initial build. As such it makes sense for the spare to be in an early bag, rather than a late one.

That error is in the BI. It never instructs you to incline the hood properly. https://www.lego.com/biassets/bi/6306674.pdf#page=51

How about one of these https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=2711#T=C https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32124#T=C press the studs into the liftarm.

Still fits in the new 7x11 frames. And since it's far less prone to having the inner gears fall out when you remove the wheel axle, you can skip the extra axle connector on the non-locking side (3l saving). Anyway the old bevelled diff didn't allow locking. Only the linear diff did, and that one is a stud longer.

Wheel hubs maybe?

Maybe the mail service provider is blocking the attachment?

I'd expect so, because otherwise what would you do if you'd clipped the red gear onto the housing without putting the 12t bevel gears in first?

Have you checked the Claas B model blade?

Reminds me of 8053, which I do not own but built from my collection this spring. In red, because I was short too many yellow pieces.