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legolijntje

LDD Moderator
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Everything posted by legolijntje

  1. Looks very nice, especially for a first time What's gonna be the next model? Please take a look at LDCad before you start getting annoyed with MLCad. It's so much better (it also has part-snapping, but you have to turn it on). If you have any questions regarding making instructions, feel free to post here or PM me
  2. Very nice work Lucio and everyone who helped! To my surprise I already have 97% of the parts (altough with such a huge number of parts, I'm still missing a few hundered including some more expensive ones). Normally I'd skip these huge models because I'd have to spend a ridiculous amount of money, but this time I might consider it. Sounds like an interesting challenge: over 7000 parts
  3. Well, the building instructions were tested about 3 times with physicial parts... One of those times the issue with the front wheels came up, but in another one it didn't. We couldn't figure out why... Well, until someone else built the model and noticed the wrong wheels. I think, at some point you can almost dream the way the model has to go together that you start to look over any errors and just completely miss them. Thanks for the review though (btw, I have no idea why TeClem is pretty much absent in this topic now )
  4. Don't forget the behind the scenes, it showes much more of the machine And the 'main' video:
  5. Well, I'm not the creator of the model, just the instuctions so I can't really comment on if there are any design-thoughts behind certain choices. But, about the clutch gears: yes, in theory it would be better. I have no idea if it'll work as fine though. Especially for the outtriggers, when you're putting the outtriggers on the ground, it might be to much resistance for a clutch gear to really get a sturdy grip. If you know what I mean... But, after all it's Lego. Just try it and see what happens
  6. Well, that's weird. You are indeed right about the part that's missing there, but it actually is in the LDraw model and in one of the older test versions of the instructions, but not in the final instructions (also the reason it already is in the parts list) Yup, I believe someone else also reported this to TeClem, so it will probably be included in the errata. In case you're not sure where to put it, it's on the same axle as the tan gear, inside the DBG LA-holder-thing (so it's also on the wrong step, it should be step 8 instead of 10). Sounds very nice! Looking forward to a picture
  7. Oh, I see what you mean. I was looking at another part. Indeed it looks like there's a few pieces missing there. I have no idea where this error comes from (and it actually surprises me this one has never been found before). Looking at the 3d model, there's no harm in placing an extra reinforcement there like on the other side. So, I guess it's missing indeed.
  8. Looks very nice. Especially since my interest has been shifting a bit from Technic vehicles to Technic machines. A while ago I was planning to build my own Lego mechanical calculator, but in the end I did not start. Good luck with the rest of the calculator!
  9. And I just bought one for a 'normal' price. You suddenly made my purchase look much more expensive than it looked before
  10. I hope you don't mind it's me answering, but I've made the instructions, so I guess that's fine too It is not an error in the instructions, the not-reinforced side will house an M motor. So, there'll be no space for a black beam like that on that side. There are however a few other minor errors in the instructions, which were reported by other builders. TeClem was hoping to release the errata this week or next week I believe. Most of the errors are quite small, there are three I'd like to point out to you (hopefully still on time): On page 80 and 81: the front assembly is attached by 4 black pins with axle-holder. The two pins furthest to the front will rub against the wheels slightly when steering. You'll either have to move these two back 1 hole (which will make the model maybe a little less stable, not sure, never tested...), or get a little creative and replace them with standard 2L black pins. This was an oversight. On the originial model they were all 4 normal 2L black pins, but were replaced by the 4 longer ones for ease of installation. Apparently that wasn't a good idea On page 155/156: you should attached the installed module with 2 2L axles going through these parts on the long beam. If you know what I mean... On page 251, step 19: you should add a black 3L beam and two half-bushes on the 4L and 9L axles, under the tan gears.
  11. If you're looking for something large, datsville is a nice choice. It may not be world's prettiest model (personal opinion though), but it is very large
  12. Welcome, RabbiT_CZ, to EuroBricks and the LDraw-sets topic! Your entry seems perfectly fine, no problems whatsoever. Super!
  13. Looks cool! I have a MOGA Pro controller (1st edition), will it have native support for the MOGA controller or do I have to use the HID option on the controller?
  14. Nice to see the marble run in real bricks and working!
  15. Bandizip works too (I can recommend Bandizip in general too, nice piece of software). Anyway, make sure that both the zip file and the z01 file are located in the same folder. Then open the zip file. It's a split zip file, so you need both parts together.
  16. There's a new LPub3D update (you might have already receiver an update notification in LPub3D itself ;) ) which fixes a bunch of crashes. Maybe it fixed (some of) your crashes too?
  17. Very nice work! Are you going to build them with real bricks? Any chance that you'll be making a tower from The Netherlands?
  18. I believe Roland (LDcad's author) would like to make a mac-version, but he doesn't have a Mac or something like that. You should ask him about the details. Sergio (author of SR3D) his family said that they would rather not give away the source. Maybe in the future... But at the moment, it's basicly dead. As for LDCad's open source: I remember that Roland said something about that on the LDraw forums. Can't remember exactly what, but I believe it was something along the lines of he'd rather keep it his project and he'll open it up when he loses interest. Again, don't qoute me on it
  19. Well, here's the LDraw file for the Marble Run as in the .A few notes: As said before, the two hoses are just two really long hoses in the file. In the real model, you connect all hoses using a lot of 60470. Those are not in the LDraw file. According to LDCad, both hoses 5679 mm long. So, 11358 mm or 11.358 meter in total. I have no idea if that's right. It sounds like quite a lot The start at the top is a little different than in the video, because in the video it's attached to the module before it. The file has some (basic) STEP commands. No full instructions or ROTSTEPS. The ldraw file has quite a large filesize because of the 2 hoses
  20. Well, SR3D Builder has had it for years. Sadly, the author passed away and it isn't being updated anymore. I can also really recommend LDCad, it also has automatic-brick snapping like in LDD (altough not on all parts, but on most parts). The GUI might look a bit strange, but it works perfectly fine. If you try LDCad and you're coming from LDD, I can really recommend these settings to make it more LDD-like: in the lower-left square with the 3 colored-arrows, click the red GS text so it turns into green PS text to turn it part-snapping (it is off by default...). in the same lower-left square, press the white TBL text to set it on SPN-mode. TBL is trackball mode and SPN is spin-mode. It changes how you can rotate the model you're working on. I highly prefer SPN mode, it's also the same way LDD works. Also, for a higher quality, you can turn on Anti-Aliassing in top menu > Prefs > LDraw > Use AA on edges. It might take a little time to get used to LDCad (also read the manual ), but it's by far not as difficult as MLCad and once you know all the little tips and tricks, it's an (imo) amazing piece of software
  21. Maybe you can PM (private message) me your file so I can take a look at it? If you want of course. EDIT: you have less then 10 posts, so you can't PM
  22. Well, you can save preference sets in preferences > preference sets. So, you could create one called "Instructions - High quality" and one called "Lines only" for example. As far as I know you can't give LPub a specifc preference set to use (it just uses the currently selected settings in LDview), but manually switching preference sets isn't as much work as manually switcing all settings There might be a little 'hack' to give LPub it's own preference sets, by installing 2 different versions of LDview. Keep in mind that I've never tried this and I have no idea if works or if it leads to unstable things. You can install a 64bit version and a 32bit version of 4.2beta (or 4.2beta and 4.1) and choose one as the default for opening an LDraw file and choose the other in LPub's settings to use as a renderer.
  23. That's indeed kinda werid If you aren't using LPub's successor LPub3D yet, you can give that one a try. Also, I would recommend to use LDview as a renderer (maybe you're already using LDview, but it's just a tip )
  24. MLCad is pretty old. It's not bad, but old and outdated. Personally, I find it very annoying to work with. LDCad is a very good alternative. It also has brick-snapping like in LDD (although no sound ), but you have to turn it on. If you need any help with creating the building instructions (or using any LDraw related software), feel free to post any questions here or PM me if you don't like putting all the details in public.
  25. LDcad can give an (estimated?) length of the flexible parts, so a total length is on the way
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