legolijntje

The thing is, you can't use buffer exchange through multiple (sub)models right? You can't buffer A in submodel 1 and then retrieve A in the main model. As far as I know

Ah, that's an interesting one. I believe someone on the LDraw forums had a nice solution for something like that that consisted of a bunch of LPUB meta commands. I'll see if I can find it. Btw, when creating instructions, I can really recommend to keep 1 'vanilla' file which just consists of the model and nothing more. And 1 file for the instructions which includes things like buffer exchange, ghosting, lpub commands etc. That clean file makes it easier (and less chances for errors) when creating renders and parts lists etc. EDIT: here you go. I've never tried it myself and I'm not 100% it's what you need, but it's worth a try

Very nice model! You've captured the curves from the dashboard quite well. :thumbup: Also, I can see where you need that one LDraw part for

At first I though 'What? They don't show up for me!?', but then I realized there are multiple ways in LDCad to look at the contents of the file. All this time I was just using the first option. I've never realized that for over a year

You probably just removed the part from the model and not from the file. I don't know if you're familiar with .mpd files (how they're structured), but essentially when you add a flexible part, you add it just like another submodel: as a submodel (or maybe 'subpart' if you will). That means that when you remove the part from the model, the actual submodel isn't removed. I've had this 'problem' myselves too in the past, but actually forgot about it. It would be a nice addition/'fix' for LDCad 1.6. With normal submodels (you've made yourselves) you can go to Model > Delete this subfile. However, the flexible parts (and other parts if there are any in the .mpd) are not shown in the .mpd contents in the part bin. So once you've removed the part from the model, there's no way to access the part to remove it from the actual file. When you remove on, you either have to double click the flexible part to enter the 'submodel' then remove it using Model > Delete this subfile and after that remove the actual useage of the part in the model (which is difficult now because it's not visible anymore because you deleted it). Or, remove it from the model (like you did) and then open up a text editor and look for the part and remove it manually. Phew, I hope that makes a bit of sense Btw: I really recommend using 1.5 if you're making instructions. The new source editor is really nice for that

I've never had any problems with Marktplaats, but I read about these scams every now and then. It's annoying and sad, but there's not a lot to do about it. The fact that Marktplaats.nl doesn't have any feedback system like ebay has is not helping either.

42038 Arctic Truck for €25. Not a really great set imho, but a great parts pack. Especially for that price

31038 - Changing Seasons - Model A [Creator] Errors: 1 minifigure head print is missing. The long brown hair is a super-unofficial part. It's a direct LDD export without any modifications. Download link 31038 - Changing Seasons - Model B [Creator] Errors: 1 minifigure head print is missing. The long brown hair is a super-unofficial part. It's a direct LDD export without any modifications. Download link 31038 - Changing Seasons - Model C [Creator] Errors: 1 minifigure head print is missing. The long brown hair is a super-unofficial part. It's a direct LDD export without any modifications. Download link

That's weird. You could try ask Trevor here (the author of LPub3D) if it could be a bug. Because LPub wasn't maintained for a long time, when Trevor started updating everything a bunch of things broke (which most of which are fixed already).

I don't exactly understand what you mean. Could you maybe give an example?

I think you'll have more succes if you post requests like this here.

Well, it can be both. In the core, .dat files, .ldr files and .mpd files all are the same except the file extension. You can rename a .ldr to .mpd and it would work fine etc. (although it depends how much the software depends on the file extension). I don't recommend it though .dat files are part files which consist of lines, triangles etc. .ldr files are LDraw models consisting of multiple .dat files. These .dat files can either be stored somewhere else (which is most often the case) or can be inlined in the .ldr file*. .mpd files are LDraw models consisiting of multiple .ldr (and .dat if needed) files. Just as with the example above, you can either put .ldr files inside the .mpd file are put them in a seperate location. You can view a .mpd as a LDraw model but instead of having .dat files, it houses .ldr files (which in turn have .dat files). In 99% of the cases the seperate models in an mpd file (the seperate .ldr files) are stored within the .mpd file itself to make it easy to share and open (you only need 1 file). Pretty much all LDraw software nowadays does it this way. I hope this little explanation is a bit clear. *Technicially speaking, when a .ldr files includes .dat files in the same file, it's questionable if it's still a .ldr or a .mpd

Well, it's just a matter of how you spent it. Yes, I could've spend it on Lego, or on food, or on electronics, or gave it to you, or whatever, but I choose this and I'm happy with it. Sorting and organizing stuff is, idk, quite relaxing for me. I've recently bought a wireless headphone (I got crazy of those wires ) and it's very enjoyable and relaxing to put up some music and then sort stuff, or experiment a bit with parts or just build someone else's model (which is more often the case ).

31039 - Blue Power Jet - Model A Errors: - None Download here. 31039 - Blue Power Jet - Model B Errors: - None Download here. 31039 - Blue Power Jet - Model C Errors: - None Download here.

Sure. I'll add a little background info too while I'm at it. It's the workspace topic after all and not the "Here's-a-picture-of-a-drawer-system" topic Here is the workspace in all it's 'glory': The 3 on the most-left all contain beams and liftarms, then there's 1 with axles and then 1 with all kinds of connectors. The one around the corner (with a lamp on top) is for all the pins and the one at the right of that one for all gears and misc. stuff. The last 6 are for bricks, plates and slopes. Note that I have a lot of the older version the VarioPlus. At one point I wanted to buy a few more when I saw they updated their VarioPlus system (the current version). Luckily they are compatible with each other. 16L beams only fit in the 'medium' drawers: I bought 1 drawer-thingy with 4 big, open drawers. They are big and easily accessible (open front) which makes them perfect for the often-needed pins: Note that that the one with pins is a little higher than the standard version. This is the only drawback I can find so far with the VarioPlus series: they have a lot of different layouts, but they don't all have the same dimensions, which makes it a little difficult to mix them. So, that's a very basic overview of my storage system. There's a lot more going on (for example the 2 small boxes under the beams drawers and there's a bunch more not on any of the images), but I don't have the time to give a full overview and I'm not very good in writing anyway I plan on changing the system a bit though. I've bought quite a lot Lego lately (and planning on buying some more this year) and the focus is mainly on Technic. So, I'm planning on buying a few more of these VarioPlus drawers and put the bricks, plates and slopes in here. I don't use them very often and it creates more space for Technic parts. As you can see I'm very organized. That's also a bit part of my personality, I guess I kinda like organizing things (not only Lego!). It's almost a seperate part of the Lego hobby I like on its own. All images are here (altough most of them are also posted above).

I can really recommend the VarioPlus series which you can buy here. They're relatively cheap (the non-metal versions), they ship very fast to The Netherlands (from Germany I believe) and they're certainly not bad. I currently have 17 (most of which are the standard cheapest layout) and I'm actually planning to buy a few more next week or so. I can take a few pictures if you want

I can't really help you, I don't know very much about Pov-Ray, but this topic contains some information that might be useful.

I'm not too sure if it's cancelled. It could also be delayed. A Dutch webshop brickshop.nl says it's delayed until January 2017. Of course I don't know if that's for sure, but that particular webshop very often has future sets correctly listed early on.

Wow, you're right! That's interesting. That makes it one of the very few applications that works with the triggers in HID mode. That makes me actually wonder why all those other applications didn't work... Maybe they did, but also with swapped triggers and I never noticed that. Ah well, that's off-topic Thanks for the tip

Today, I've tried this app for the first time and it worked pretty well. I wanted to use a trigger as the drive-forward button but that didn't work. That's probably not your fault though. There's this annoying thing with the originial MOGA Pro where the triggers almost always don't work in HID mode. Not on my phone and not on my PC. I believe I encountered 1 program on my PC where they did work in HID mode, but I'm not sure (long time ago) and that would've probably been custom-made, the triggers don't seem to work natively. Ah well, it's an 'old' controller already (I mean, it's the originial MOGA Pro, its webpage doesn't even exist anymore) and the other buttons work perfectly. Nice work! Btw, any chances you'll put this on the Play Store, or do you keep it as a seperate .apk?

That's interesting. I wouldn't have expected such an old (and relatively 'simple' I think) part to be missing from the LDraw library.

I think you can use Rebrickable. Create a new private MOC at Rebrickable. Import the parts from the Bricklink order and then export again to a bricklink xml (or whatever other format you want).

Well, I don't use the 3d viewer in LPub3D a lot either. But that's just one of the many things it has more than the originial LPub. Don't let the 3D in the name fool you, it's not the only new thing But, the biggest reason for me to use LPub3D over LPub is that it's faster. The difference seems to be different for a lot of people (because the originial LPub was really slow for some like me, while it was less slow for other people). I can really recommend to make the pneumatic tubing using LDCad's flexible parts generator. It's soooo much easier to work with the flexible parts in real time and in 3D as opposed to LSynth. It takes a little time to understand how it works (I recommend Roland's youtube video's and the manual), but it's so much faster and easier (in my opinion/experience at least). And, it works fine in LPub, even though it isn't LSynth

Well, it doesn't matter how many tips you get or how experienced you are, creating instructions (especially Technic instructions) will always just take a lot of time. If I understand your question correctly, you're looking for tips to build a digital copy which would make it easier to eventually create instructions (if ever), right? Well, I think it's better to just create the model and the instructions later, than create some kind of half instructions. Altough, something that could be very useful is to make very good use of submodels. Put everything that can be assembled seperately and put onto the main model in submodels. Don't be afraid to use a lot of submodels, nested submodels and even more submodels. Really, submodels are the key to create good instructions Regarding tools: I'd recommend LDcad instead of MLCad. I can build waay faster (and better) in LDCad than in MLCad. It's also relatively easy to reorder STEP commands (ROTSTEPS aren't possible yet, probably in a future version). And try to switch from LPub to LPub3D. It's a continuation of LPub, but from a new author. On my PC it's also waaay faster than the original LPub, and it has some nice little features. If you have any questions regarding making instructions, feel free to ask or PM me

I use my laptop. But I guess I'm cheating a bit, because I have one of those convertibles So I just turn the laptop in 'tent-mode', standing like this: /\ with the screen facing forward. Small footprint and a large(ish) screen. But, aside from that, I'll probably choose a laptop over a tablet anyway, no idea why though, that's just what I'm used to I guess.