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Found 6 results

  1. This MOC is almost one year old and was made to participate in Moscow BrickFest 2019 Trophy&Trial competition. According to rules of competition, models need to have differential on both axles. I wanted to make a model with independent suspension and decent drive ability and that is the main reason for engineering solutions in this model, including old differentials being shifted towards the middle of the chassis. The drivetrains are organized with swinging gear meshing which are acting like inner CV-joint. - 2 L-motors for propulsion - Servo-motor for steering - Li-Po battery block - SBrick for control Front suspension is independent and based on McPherson strut suspension. Front wheel are supported with strut and lower arms. Rubbers bands on lower arms are used as springing elements. Lower arms are made of thin liftarms to make driven axle possible with good clearance. All three motors are integrated in front suspension, being as low as possible to ensure low center of gravity and enough space in chassis for shifted differentials. Rear suspension is just another classic double wishbone suspension with pretty long travel. On the rear I used planetary hubs from 42099 set to ensure that CV-joint won't break under the load. Wheels rotation speed is synchronized via gear ratios, drivetrains to front and rear axles are separated and each one uses its own motor. Suspension is quite soft and sink a little under it own weight but keeps about middle position during driving. Overall design was inspired by Safari editions of classic Porsche 911. And some WIP-photos: WIP-photos with first prototype of strut, that was broken by rubber bands tension : And some boastful photo of suspension travel I think of this model as of unfinished, but I don't have neither time or will to finish it, especially regarding the exterior. I have plans for another iteration of "Porsche-like" offroader with another unusual drivetrain. Thank you for you attention! I will appreciate any comments.
  2. Hi all, I present you my finished MOC of a 7-seater familycar with full functions: DETAILED PDF INSTRUCTIONS NOW AVAILABLE HERE, REBRICKABLE ENTRY HERE Separate PDF instructions for the roof implement available HERE, Rebrickable entry HERE I got the idea for building a family car about 3 years ago, when looking for a bigger car IRL for my own family. I was intrigued by the fancy seat folding mechanisms seen on these type of cars and wanted to reproduce that. For the model, I took inspiration from the Ford S-Max, which in my opinion combines good looks with all familycar requirements. It also comes in some fast versions, so it is fun to drive as well (unfortunately, IRL this car is well above my budget... Ah well...): It was clear to me early on that I would not be able to reproduce the exact looks (I'm not that good a scale model builder), but I wanted to stay as close to a real life car as I could in terms of mechanical features and looks on both interior and exterior. Meanwhile I wanted it to be structurally sound as well, based on modern "box structure" car frames. I built numerous iterations, starting in 1:8 scale, and later switching to 1:10 scale after having to much trouble with the larger scale when it comes to chassis stiffness. I have worked on this on and off for over 2 years, finally resulting in this build. The model has: 5+ R gearbox with linkage control: full suspension (independent McPherson with drive in front, dead trailing arm axle in the rear): 4-in-line transversally mounted fake engine in the front: rigid box structure chassis full interior with adjustable/folding seats on all rows: Folding the seats movie opening doors (with lock), boot and hood: parking brake (transmission lock) I wanted the maximum available interior space for this car (that's what a family car is all about after all...), so I set myself some goals: no supports from bottom to roof inside interior space: center console should be no wider than 5 studs: front wheel drive with front engine and gearbox: I wanted to create a rigid chassis, which would not bend and is self supporting. Because I wanted as much interior space as possible, the bottom structure is only 2-3 studs high. I couldn't fit vertical frames in there (as they are 5studs high), so in the end the roof became an active part of the structure of the chassis. It is very strong and stiff, when one wheel is lifted, there is hardly any bending in the chassis, instead the opposite wheel suspension is compressed: The whole car can be lifted safely with only one finger, from the midsection on the roof and by the B-pillars and C-pillars: Here are some more pics: For a full gallery and all WIP photo's, check my bricksafe folder. ============================ Below and further in this topic is all the WIP progress of making this car from July 1st onwards: Pic of current chassis WIP with parking break (back yellow knob), gearstick (in front of parking brake) and linkage (beneath and in front of gearstick), and start of gearbox mounting and front suspension (McPherson with drive from Sheepo's MPS)
  3. Hello all! I know, there already exists a topic about 42110 MODs. But, considering I plan to rebuild the whole car (except exterior) - it really would be better to separate my posts in a new topic (I agree with @Nazgarot). So, for now, I just copy what I posted in 42110 - Land Rover Defender - MODs and Improvements. The actual progress is: - completed front part of the frame (it's stiff enough even without any other part of the body attached): - McPherson suspension and front differential module mounts on that frame and is easily detachable (also McPherson struts include new cv-joints from 42099): - front suspension is built with caster and KPI angles: - engine is built from 4 PF XL-motors coupled together (output gear ratio is 20:36), also it's equipped with one-way clutch (it's built years ago by @nicjasno): - given that drive shaft of the engine has half-stud offset in vertical direction, here is an "offset remover": All modules assembled look like this: And, of course, a video of the short test: This module has some little issues (at first, I need to improve stiffness of the suspension's struts - under load they bend a little bit inward, but it doesn't affect all the process of a drive), but it has a really stiff frame and it's a good start point. You can find more photos on Flickr. About the question why I decided to use XL-motors: XL-s have the biggest torque among all Lego motors (according to the @Philo's page). Buggy-motor has higher rpms, but lower torque (and it's much more expensive and bigger than XL). It's not good choice for heavy vehicles. L-motors are more compact, but, again, if you compare torque/rpm ratio among all of the motors - XLs are the best imho. I tested this setup (4 XLs) two years ago at local fest: This model hadn't any gearbox and was pretty heavy. But, as you can see, the car accelerated easily, than acceleration stopped and speed was constant - only because of low max RPMs of the XLs. Theese motors have very good potential even without gearbox. L-motors are too weak for such acceleration of heavy models. Considering I plan to add a gearbox to this rebuilt Defender - it has to be fast and powerfull))
  4. It's only photos, but it is a design I've been working on for quite a while now. It will work with the standard 7 long steering beam and Track Rod 6mm, it even gives you Ackerman Steering. 17.5mm, 34mm diamiter rims. So that should cover all 1:10 scale models. You can swap the large spring for a smaller and uses these parts at the top one with parts x1 "Tube with double Ø4.85", x1 "Cross Block/form 2 x 2 x 2", x1 "3 with arch with Knob & Shaft Ø3.2", x2 "Technic Lever 2m" and x2 "Axle 3mm with Stoppers". I have only shown instructions for one side, it should be self explanatory on how to make the opposite side Please find photos Here! Lego McPherson Suspension Enjoy.
  5. kinda bumped into this by accident but i thought it would be worth sharing. Its a small mcpherson design with adjustable toe in/out and caster, steering works fine regardless. wheelbase is pretty much unaffected. srry for the crappy pics.
  6. !!PROJECT IS ABANDONED AND DISCONTINUED!! Hi everyone! I'd like to present to you my WIP Land Rover Defender 90. First, some explanations. The goal was to make pretty accurate car with two live axles, 2 gears (slow and fast) and 2 differential locks (middle and rear). I started from scrolling throug Unimog instruction to get some inspiration. The first try at building chassis was successful, but the steering tended to break and gears slipped (PF Servo in the middle of chassis, PF XL on front). Both differential locks, based on Sariels minimalistic differential lock, worked correctly (sorry, no photos). So I rebuilded everything with Servo on front axle on two PF L in the middle. Still I wasn't satisfied with front and gears slipped . Then came the third version with PF XL on the back, good gears design and front independent suspension (differential locks were ditched in the process). But... The basic TLG double whishbone suspension (3 and 5 studs high) tend to be wobbly if assembled poorly (read: assembled by me ), especially with big wheels. I got pissed of and in result dug the internet in search for something good. Finally I ended up with nicjasnos' McPherson suspension. It works perfectly btw . To summarize this a bit long introduction, Land Rover now has front independend McPherson suspension, live axle on back, 2 gears and 4WD with PF XL motor, no differential locks. Without the locks it's pretty unusable in terrain, but runs smoothly on flat. And now the meat part, photos! The plan is to make the bodywork detachable in case I want to improve both cassis and body separately. Also it'd be great to make front live axle with portal axle and correct kingpin inclination and positive caster angle, and both differential locks switched with PF M motors. Please write any suggestions and comments!