Rudivdk

Got the additional question and answered it. Not a big issue and if it helps against those spam messages I would even fill out a list of 10. Good luck admins with your efforts in cleaning the forum. Whatever you come up with, I'm with you guys!

Well, I for one wasn't able to finish my ride in time. Might finish it at some point nontheless, but not as TC14 entry... Anyway, I'm curious to see all entries, gonna check it out later today. Indeed a cool contest!

What technique is that for the body panelling...? Very cool shaping, and the use of actuators to actually create the curves and put the tension on the bodywork. Brilliant engineering! And that drill is indeed genius

@Aventador2004You forgot 1... Dunno if I can finish it in time, but I haven't withdrawn yet

I happen to see one driving by IRL yesterday (around the same time you posted this, coincidence...?) and I must say your rendition looks spot on to me. Very beautiful build. I was thinking of moving to smaller scale in the future (I'm currently working in 1:10 mainly), but seeing this in 1:8 makes me doubt again...

Hmm, what happened to the red slicing blade from the prelims... If they wanted to reduce 'technicolor', I'm sure they could've picked some other red elements to recolor... The blade looked cool in red... And that 'hanging' large green panel in the rear looks somewhat weird. On the other side a green beam was used to fill the gap to the white beam and upper panel. I can see the bb-switch sits there, but a 5l or 7l beam green wouldn't be in the way right? Not to start all negativity again, just noticed these 'oddities'... EDIT: that valve really looks interesting, might pick the set up for just those...

In theory adding a longer (or second) rope with extra pulley works to increase lifting height. Not sure how well it fits in real model though. Anyone care to try?

Maybe I missed, but what about the lifting height? And would my MOD to increase lifting heigh by making a longer (double) rope solution actually work? (Or should I just sit back and wait for the reviews to be published on August 1st? Thats also fine with me)

Probably yes, but it will also increase the weight of the chains drastically. Anyway, who doesn't like some extra power...

Testrun: Lots of work still to be done: - most important: brace all gearing to prevent the cracking... - hook up a second set of XL motors on the other side to increase torque and make the motion smoother (and perhaps a bit faster) - redesign the pods to balance them out and make them spin everywhere while the wheel is turning. - create raising/lowering boarding ramp beneath the pods for easy entry. - decoration

I use LDCad as well for some time now and as Jeroen says, I do not want to go back to anything else. What really helped getting me started were the tutorial movies on Youtube by Roland Melkert himself, especially those on flexible parts editing. Just copy-build the stuff he does to figure out how it works, and after a few tries it will feel natural. It is really worth the effort in the end!

Pure 100% oldfashion eyeballing for me

I think I get the idea. If you pull this off it will really be something else! Good luck

That is also a nice name. I've read about that part, the manufacturer actually slowed down the rotation rpm by almost half after some of the accidents. I'm still in doubt whether to gear it down to 'safe' speed or go all crazy... What do you guys think: safe rotation speed or 'ludicrous' speed?

Thanx Erik! The motor is actually fitted 'in system' completely. The tool I used was mentioned in this topic (in which you actually commented about the tool yourself...): I'm quite happy with the red frames folding myself, took some time to figure it all out but its actually fully copied from the original machine. They are more pronounced in my model because of the size of technic beams compared to the scale and the bright color. I have made the endparts of the arm extendible with springs to have an automatic tensioner on the chain. With the chain on it, the springs are about half compressed, to stretch out the chain and provide minimum slack and sagging as possible while also preventing too much strain on the parts (mostly the 12l axle through the rims and the electric motor itself). I found that it was not possible to make it like this with a solid built arm (either too much sagging or to much stress/bending of axles). The red gearrack housings give the most stability for a sliding piece because of their length, create a rigid backbone to the arm themselves, are lightweight compared to their structural integrity and they happened to be the correct color for my intended colorscheme.