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About kurigan

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    Fresh Pirate
  • Birthday 06/16/1981

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    Classic Pirates
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    Ship in a Bottle - 21313

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  1. kurigan

    [WIP] Building a new hull frigate

    Why the window frames in side the gun ports?
  2. kurigan

    General MOC-Discussion, WIP-Help, and Teaser Thread

    Thanks for not calling-out the misspelling so i could go back and edit as to look like less of a dope later . I imagine such a thing would really change boarding actions too. Don't gotta tell me about dragging projects out.
  3. kurigan

    General MOC-Discussion, WIP-Help, and Teaser Thread

    You mean for the likes of masts and spars? Dowel, from the craft store. Have a bunch from years ago, so I haven't even had to buy any yet, though that will change if I ever get to finishing anything. I know some other builders have tried more purest solutions, like stages of bars or flex tube, but found the wanting and troublesome as there's a certain trade-off in stability. But perhaps you mean something else and I'm just being dense. A puckle gun maybe?
  4. I am always on, checking in to Facebook several times a day.
  5. @Capt Wolf Thanks and you're most welcomed . On the other thing though: Bit off topic but we can expand the conversation to include other deck furniture, why not? Yeah the long and the short of it is, that I tried a lot of Lego parts, including the truncheon, but nothing quite worked how I needed it to. The hand turned ones are a throw back all the way to Ramcat. When I tore her down to build Reckless, I was on a dead line and wanted to keep part of her in the new version anyway, so I made the several more I was lacking for the new rig and kept her that way. After Ramcat I started working on 3D printed pins, that kind of worked out. The first run went on Nonesuch, but the second run didn't fit as well. I never yet ordered more, since Shapeways prices went up and it stopped being economical. As I need them again in the future I'll reach out find someone to trade a favor with, who can print them with more care.
  6. I see a lot of builders still using the old panel of 4070 (headlight bricks) on their side, to cover hatch ways. It works, I suppose, but it's limiting and not quite the thing, honestly. There is a much simpler method that looks more realistic and opens up a lot of options for including other elements, that I've used for years now and wanted to share. I've seen a few pick-up on this, or something like it, but I don't think I've seen any one break it down yet. Keep in mind; this is not so much "look what I've done" as it is "Look what you can do!" While I invite you all to add to this list with your own innovations, I have to say: If you're only chiming in to "show me up" or "tell me off" you can go start your own thread, where you can sit atop your hill and be king all by yourself . What I'm offering here, obviously, is adapted, specifically to my own MOCs, as I took the images right off my various constructions on display in my office, in different states of completion. That doesn't mean that there aren't myriad ways to apply any of it to you're own builds. For instance, if you're not OK with gravity connections you can google methods for stud flipping and enjoy a feast of clever ideas. Let's quickly cover the terminology and then I'll get to showing you what I've got to offer. Those large holes in the deck which allow passage between levels are called hatch ways. Often, they can be covered with a hatch, which is a hinged or removable plank(s) that close them off. There can also be a number of different constructions, like skylights. Most commonly modeled, especially on men-o-war, are gratings which are a latticework of wooden bars which allow light and air to pass through, but still provide a platform so the deck space is not lost to the void. Around these hatch ways is a frame that called a coaming, which discourages water on the deck, from flowing through the hole to the deck below. These can also support such handy accessories as hand rails and shot garlands which are boards with carved depressions that hold cannon balls so they are ready and near by the guns. Ok, first, a really basic set, the likes of which I think you could work into most any kind of MOC. These are on Reckless and are made up mostly of 3005 on a plate(s) with a few 4070s and 87087s to hold tiles that make that coamings. These just plop down in the hatch way and rest on the frame below. Again, there are a number of ways you could flip studs to lock these in place, or prop them up the keep the removable, depending on your own build. This one is on the current iteration of Scorpion and is similar but needed to be tiles on the bottom so the coamings make up part of the structure. The all black looks neat in context, but makes it hard to see the detail of what parts were used, how. Tan or brown are definitely better and would look more realistic. These are on Snake, which I'm modeling on the historic HMS Snake. Here I changed up the coamings to include some 4865s and such which now act as shot garlands. You can also see how I used a combination of 4070s and 87087 to divide the forward hatch between a companion way and the open hatch, though which the chimney passes. The shot are actually air soft pellets I painted black. At 6mm they're a little over sized for a 3062b barrel, but what ever, they look neat. The little slip of card stock just props it up to be more level with the sloping deck. These are on a MOC I haven't revealed yet and go a step farther with alternative parts. The spacing of the deck precluded the usual tiles, so I used the 4856s as shot garlands again but to complete the coaming I slipped some rubber bands around each. They are Lego rubber bands but the shot are pin heads, I blacked with a Sharpie. So that's what I have so far, what have you got to offer? I know I'm not the only one to use this method, nor is it necessarily best, so let's make it a conversation. Add your clever solutions to the hive mind. Cheers! Dave P.S. Sorry for the dust and poor lighting. I had this idea and literally, just went around the room, snapping pictures with my phone where the ships lie as they are. There's definitely a dust problem down here
  7. Here's a link which might be helpful (inkscape is on there). I use Illustrator, and at home print from there with no problem. When I want a really fine print I take my files to Staples. I give them PDFs and everything comes out high-rez and true to size. I get my sizing by, literally, measuring the bricks/minifig parts and making my own templates in Illustrator. Hope this helps. Dave
  8. kurigan

    Working Rudder Design

    ... Just saying...
  9. kurigan

    General MOC-Discussion, WIP-Help, and Teaser Thread

    @Sebeus I Thanks! I think you might be too hard Beatrix. Yeah, she's a bit too narrow, but she was a successful proof-of-concept and much loved at the time. If it were up to me, I'd put her back together and keep her for the memories. Now that red one, she may have the same problem as a SotL but what if you razed her down to a frigate? Dave
  10. @Edmund Babbington Yes it's a great start. you have many of the elements accounted for. going forward it's really a question of proportioning. You'll find that, the smaller the vessel, the less exaggerated things, like foscls and quarterdecks tend to me. Google "Schooner Sultana" to see what I mean. You can go with a two mast rig, to balance things out, like a schooner or ketch, you could also make what you have bigger. Put a taller mast closer to center and spread those two head sails out. you'll need a larger main sail, but it's just another way to go. @Wellesley That is awesome. I really don't have any notes, as I don't know the type but from paintings and film, but I find it convincing enough to recognize what she is right away. I tried something like this a while back, but just couldn't get it stable, so color me impressed on that front as well. Dave
  11. kurigan

    Custom Hull Tutorial

    Are you asking me? I don't know. Perhaps I misunderstand, but I never did any work in this style. My own stuff is rather different. @Kolonialbeamter is your guy for making this technique work IRL. My own bows aren't very dissimilar, but only need a couple points of contact due to the tension exerted by the rest of the hull. Dave
  12. I've never had any trouble, just measuring a torso and making my own templates. all the measurements fall on common fractions of an inch, so that they are system standard. Worst case, get a design with the elements you want, and trace over it. The jackets and coats I make for my figures, started with the cape template you can still find on Classic Castle. I traced over their old GIF in Illustrator and start redesigning from there. @MAB I don't know how well printing holds up under the arms, but I've found that there's enough tolerance to pop arms off, fit a paper coat over the balls and pop 'em back in the socket. Everything fits pretty well and I've made extensive use of this technique. I'd imagine, that if the ink were not too thick, printing would work as well. Cheers! Dave
  13. kurigan

    Is it Lawful? (Question)

    I just want to chime in here and applaud your concern. I missed the thread when it was new, but the main point has been well covered by higher authorities than me. What impresses me is the level of consideration you've given to the idea of "fair credit" and the sensibilities of the original builder. It's a laudable attitude, I see too often abandoned or never considered at all, in the Lego enthusiasts community. Indeed the prevailing attitude seems to be that sharing one's work is tantamount to surrendering it to public domain. To be sure, those of us who do share, understand and even encourage, others to take our work and inspirational, even informative. It is true that in our chosen medium there really are only so many combinations, and there is little harm in counting studs as to recreate another's design for your own purposes. In a community where names are know and designs are distinct, however, it is nothing less than respectful to give credit, where credit is due. Kudos to you, good sir, and welcome aboard! Dave
  14. kurigan

    [LDD] HMS Saber

    Well it's unmistakably a brig now . Where you wanna take her from here is up to you, dono what else to offer. Could keep her as is if you like, could keep developing her too. That is a nice gun design. Shame I don't have any of those fezs around. I think you mean swivel guns, BTW. The pickle gun was a thing but to my knowledge, not a naval one. It was one of the first repeating gun designs. If it had worked better, I'm sure they woukd have found their way aboard though . Never mind that they smack of innovation, they'd be a great way to clear decks and respell boarders. Cheers Dave
  15. kurigan

    [LDD] HMS Saber

    I think what you're seeing is all superficial and not related to the rig with regard to schooner vs brig. There's no gaff on the main mast, instead she's clearly rigged with a fore course. She does lack top masts and topsails, but I think that our new builder just isn't that far in their reckoning and we'd see them included on later iterations Also the low angle bowsprit isn't specific to schooners, but it just a way some ships manage to fit more and/or bigger head sails. In fact, I guessed correctly upon opening the thread at the inspirational vessel, which indeed does have a very long and low angle bowsprit, which brings us to: @Comrade_funny Interesting first showing. before I scrolled to read your write-up I though to my self "huh, Niagara?" So, she's recognizable and that's something. I mentioned the low bow sprit, but yours is down right horizontal. To be more like Niagara, you'll want to figure out a way to mount it so that it rises up at least a few degrees. Also think about adding top masts and topsails. That being said you haven't told us much about your goals for the build or your values as a builder/modeler so it's hard to give more specific advice. If you're trying to model Niagara or make more realistic model like builds, then I may be helpful. If you're more on the Lego ship end of the spectrum, I'm not your guy so much, but there are a lot of great builders around here who are. Why not do another iteration and share a little more with us in those regards? For now, I see nothing, in particular, that needs "correcting" on your ship, just things that could be adjusted and that's pretty significant. It's rare to see first efforts that don't suffer from common misconceptions, so kudos to you on that! Thanks for sharing! Dave