kurigan

Eurobricks Knights
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About kurigan

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    Fresh Pirate
  • Birthday 06/16/1981

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    New Jersey
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    Send me a message and get to know me, I’m a pretty nice guy.

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  1. kurigan

    HMS Argonaut, 38 gun frigate, WIP

    Not sure exactly to which part you’re referring so I put the terms which apply in bold so you can look them up. The outer most part to which the figurehead is attached and where the head rails terminate is called the beakhead. Below that the portion of the prow or stem which counter curves to break the surface tension is a cutwater. Further down, below the water line, the forefoot curves back under the hull to meet the keel; which is essentially the spine of the ship, running the rest of the length to the stern post. The entire forward part of the ship, which meets the sea, it called the bow. Those basket like railings are called head rails and form a kind of toilet seat for use by the common seaman. Larger ships, with enough space to afford to them would also augment or replace the old fashioned railings with seats of ease. The lower most portion of the mast which protrudes out ahead of the hull is the bowsprit. Attached to that, extending it further, are the jib booms. The first vertical mast is the foremast and the portion of the ship’s hull which makes a wall for preventing the sea from washing over the decks is the breakwater. From what I see here it seems to me that your figure head is too big and the beakhead is much more structure than needed to support it. Historically, most figureheads were carved to be simple without a lot of extended limbs to break of in the ocean. Often they were placed to be the very end of the beakhead, so that there was nothing more above them to interfere with the bowsprit. They were rarely of life size except on the largest ships and not all were anthropomorphic, taking the shape of an animal, crest or abstract decoration instead. Legostone’s image of Essex shows well what I’m referring to here. The figure’s head is above the beakhead and only slightly higher than the deck of the focsle allowing the bowsprit to sit at a low 30 degree angle (which would allow her to carry more and/or larger head sails between the bowsprit and fore mast). On my own models I rarely have any decoration on the prow, simply because I don’t warrant them large enough to accommodate any, in reference both to the fashion of their type in history and in the physical size of their construction in Lego. What I have used as decoration has been small of the 1 X 1 variety, like a parrot in one instance or a flower in another. Keep in mind, that though the scales of our respective works are different they are similar in size. Even my tiny sloops are wider than pre-fab hull sections by several studs. There you go, lots of free information, do with it as you will.
  2. kurigan

    MOC - French Sloop

    Indeed...
  3. kurigan

    Dead eye help needed.

    "He" did indeed do some bit of a tutorial, but it turned out to be a lot more work than it seemed worth. I only ever got so far before I had to stop but you can start here.
  4. kurigan

    "The making of" our Spanish Imperial Galleon

    Though we do appreciate your interest and enthusiasm we do ask that you refrain from bumping old topics. For your edification please revisit the Site Guidelines as well as this topic on Bumping Old Topics. Thank you for understanding.
  5. I'm done. I quit. I'm out.
  6. @Bregir Alright then: I like this one too. May I suggest a few things though? First, I appreciate the sand green lower portion; looks like oxidized copper. If you used a combination of plates on end and those same slopes in a manner similar to what I did on Bumblebee, you could make the curves match, in theory. I've wanted to do something like this, with the sand green on my own ships, but never come across enough sand green, anything. Also, if you use more than one fulcrum you can make the bows bluffer than the stern. From my experience with this style, it doesn't appear you've gone beyond the natural tolerance built into the bricks, not even close really. You could get much more curve without damaging the bricks which would help up forward. On that note, using the brick-bricks to look like planking was clever. With a bluffer bow you can also shrink the cutwater to a single stud wide, which IMHO would just look better. If you do get those top-down views I'd love to see your gun and how it's mounted. I might have an idea or two for ya there too.
  7. kurigan

    Ranks and positions in the pirates theme.

    Here's another great site worth checking out: https://www.historicnavalfiction.com/general-hnf-info
  8. @Bregir I would love this design, more as a schooner than a brig, of not for those pre-fabs. They're just so unnecessary here and they just brings the waterline down too low. She looks as though she got hung up on a sand bar at high tide and has wait for it to come back in. Where your chain plate is now, is about where the waterline should be... Ah who am I kidding! You don't care. Have fun mate!
  9. kurigan

    General MOC-Discussion, WIP-Help, and Teaser Thread

    I can haz joining bounty? As has become my wont, I've been keeping my current projects under wraps but this was just too perfect, so enjoy a sneak peak, courtesy of my ridiculous cat!
  10. kurigan

    [OL-FB] An old two-decker

    Yeah, pretty much what he said
  11. kurigan

    [MOC] Blow, Harry, Blow!

    This, is incredible. Sorry I took so long to get around to saying so, but I do love everything about this. The design, the execution, the scenario, it's all just too much fun. Thanks for sharing !
  12. kurigan

    Brig "Aurora"

    @Cousarmy0001 Alright, I'll chime in... As for guns, I agree with Cousarmy. For size and scale brick built is the way to go. Handily enough, there's a link in my signature to a few purist friendly designs which may be of use. Check out The Foundry. It's very incomplete and needs a lot of work, but it's start. There's also the ones I put on Reckless and if you really like those and ask real nice, I can show you some I've come up with which no one has yet seen. My initial impression of Aurora was "oh, like Moshulu" She's a ship turned restaurant in Philadelphia where, incidentally, I had my wedding reception. This likening I based on both the setting and her hull shape. I'll expound; brace your selves! I don't think you owe any one credit in particular for any technique used, not that I can think of. In fact, I think you've invented a new one with the flex tube and flags. It’s really quite clever and looks great. You've achieved a complex shape at the bow which thus far has seemed like something of a chimera. I also like GeoBrick's idea and think it might work out if you tried it. Perhaps it's the color scheme or the thickness of the bulwarks, but I just didn't see a wooden hull, until I forced myself to look for it. She struck me right off as an iron or steel hull, something from the late 19th or early 20th century, and I don't think that's bad place to be. A lot more late-period metal hulls survive today than wooden hulls anyway. As a museum ship on a trendy waterfront, like Philly's own Penn's Landing, that makes a lot more sense to me. If you go that route, loose the cabin and round your stem into a fantail. You can use the same technique as on the bow. Also lose the guns outright, save the trouble, and give her a more benign back story, why not? OK now is where my advice gets... unpopular. While I realize the whole point was to play around with the pre-fab hulls, my best advice is to strike em. They are a handicap and a crutch at the same time, IMHO. You put Sirius at the top yourself. I shouldn't need to offer any more encouragement than that to convince you that you're a better builder, no? OK, then let me put it like this: These are to car design what pre-fabs are to ship building. You'll do as you will, but I don't see why you can't use something like Sirius' technique in combination with the flags and tubes to make a truly remarkable, unique and innovative design. Sorry all, but the "bad guy" shtick isn't over just yet. Rigging. Insist on purism here if you must, but Lego was never intended to simulate anything like a ship's rigging in anyway and always falls short. Short of truly looking the part or offering even token support to a ship model's upper works. It is my considered opinion, that in such cases, where there are simply no Lego pieces to do the job, it should be OK, even by purist standards, to introduce non-Lego elements. After all you're just substituting one piece of string for another. If difficulty and time consumption are your worry, take it from me, it's unfounded. Though it's not a task for the faint of heart, string rigging is nowhere near as challenging as it would seem most believe it to be. If you wish to give it a shot, reach out to me and I can do a lot to get you started. One more thing and again I'm repeating myself here but, ah... research, research, research. You don't need to be a "book worm" to run a few Google searches, but being able to say "This! I am definitely making one of these." is invaluable. Just like you did with Sirius, you saw a shape you liked and worked to recreate that. Alright, finally, my standard disclosure. When wondering in what tone to take my words, air in favor of benevolence rather than animosity. Though I may seem heavily critical, that I even bothered should be seen as encouragement, not discouragement. Plenty of builds go by and I say nothing. It takes time to compose all this, so take or leave my advice, but don't do so lightly. She's a great build so far. I say; keep building and thanks for sharing! edit: 1 "offering even token support to a ship model's upper works" may he too bold of a statement. Those Classic Pirate shrouds offer quite a nit of support being rigid plastic. 2 I remembered HM Bark Endeavor after I shut everything down to finally go to bed. She uses a similar technique and you may find her an interesting bit of inspiration.
  13. ...making me do stuff... grumble-grumble...:angry:

  14. kurigan

    Custom Black Pearl

    Welcome aboard mate! I see that this is your first and only post. There is a place for conversations of this sort, where you may find better luck, the Buy, Sell, Trade forum (BST), check it out. While you're taking a tour of the site, you might as well brush up on the Site Guidelines; never hurts . Also, are you aware of sites like bricklink.com or brickowl.com, where you can buy specific bricks in specific quantities? You can even take that parts list and make it a wanted list so the site can find the best store(s) for you. One more thing, you'll find it's in good form, and likely to generate more cooperation (and garner less attention from the staff) if you make some sort of introduction for yourself. You could share some of your own MOCs or tell us all a little about your self here. Cheers!