MY1

the mechanism that you showed in the gif looks really cool. In terms of driving both the wheels and rotors, you could have an orange rotary catch linked in a 2:1 ratio to the axle, used to switch between modes. The orange rotary catch would be attached to a gearbox that switches the drive from the rotor to the wheels. I've noticed that on mini LAs if you turn the orange axle the extending part will spin freely. using this idea you can have an extendable drive axle that could connect to the rotors using a series of U joints

wtf thats a lot of torque

to have the wheels double as the rotors would probably be really weird-looking. I think having rotors that are hidden during car mode and come out might have a better appearance

what is the point of the differentials if they are always locked

Im surprised you managed to fit a whole V12 in there. Also looking at your 3rd pic it seems that there isn't any ground clearance

are those train wheels acting turbos? also are you using LAs to operate the doors?

I am very surprised at how well it looks and works, the hood opening mechanism and look is more realistic. I think that this is more of a thing for someone who wants to view the lego version as a very accurate, functional, and realistic model of the car.

I recall rebrickable mentioned that they were switching to a new sight or something but now I cant remember can someone give me some info

what an genius idea ive never seen that before. in fact it inspired me to try to ride a bike with no hands.

Very impressive that you managed to 5 different models out of that.

im surprised u were able to fit all the motors in the tractor itself. Did u you a BuWizz for power unit

what is the point of the gear on top the roof?

How do you change your profile pic

a little while ago I started making a Pagani Zonda c12 in 1:10 scale here are some pictures on brick safe bc I can't figure out how to put large-sized pictures in here https://bricksafe.com/pages/MY1/pagani-zonda-c12. anyways it has a modified version of @Leviathan's 5+r manual gearbox, the one in his Jannarelly design one. independent suspension on all four wheels and I plan on implementing openable doors and rear clamshell bonnet. suspension is inspired from Legos recent 42115. I am planning on using the standard lego wheel 15038 in the back and the new Land Rover wheels in the front bc I think it gives the car a subtle wide to less wide look. I have not figured out how to do a shifting mechanism yet but I'm thinking about going with a ball joint lever similar to @Gray Gear's cars

I have finally finished. I am quite happy with how it turned out however there were some minor stepbacks along the way. At first, I called this a Pagani Zonda C12 but then I realized that literally, every single Pagani is custom made and there isn't really a standard Pagani Zonda so this is my version of a Pagani Zonda. Overall the car features: 5+r speed manual gearbox with safe shift mechanism from @Gray Gear and slightly modified gearbox from @Leviathan modular chassis Ackerman steering geometry Working steering wheel and Hand Of God steering full independent suspension opening doors opening rear Clamshell opening front Bonnet/hood multicolored Gear Ratios are as follows: 5:1 3:1 2.4:1 1.4:1 1.8:1 The Gearbox was quite a challenge because at first, I had planned on doing a 6-speed gearbox in the central column, I quickly realized that that was waaay too wide for a 1:10 scale car. I also found out that older models of the Zonda were built with 5-speed gearboxes and I wanted the car to be as realistic as possible and that was by making a 5+r gearbox. I stumbled upon Gray Gears shifting mechanism for a 6-speed transmission and safe shift mechanism which was a lot slimmer and allowed me to put the gearbox under the engine which saved tons of space. The shifting linkage for 2nd and 3rd gear or the white parts below really proved quite a challenge because I had routed the drive axle from the differential to the bottom of the car, of course, the only way to move the "middle" clutch is by having a lever under it. this meant that the middle shifting lever was already below the entire car and it still needed to be supported underneath so it wouldn't fall out. my solution was to attach an axle which the middle lever slides upon. the orange ball in the below pic shows where the axle connects with the rest of the chassis. to my surprise, this solution is sturdy and hasn't failed once. It also only lessens the suspension travel by one stud. The safe shift mechanism sticks out a bit but it keeps the "driver" from accidentally engaging more than one gear. It also allowed the clutches to use the non-ribbed connectors. The ribbed connectors made it too hard to shift gears due to the extra force needed to "snap" the clutch piece into the desired position. This also means that while "driving" it is recommended to keep your hand on the gear lever otherwise the car could slip out of gear. Here is a picture of the gearbox and linkages for shifting gears. Green is the safe shift mechanism. red controls gears 4 and 5. White controls gears 2 and 3. Blue controls gears 1 and reverse. Like the real car, I decided to build my Zonda in separate stages or better known as modular building. just like all Lego instructions, I tried to build back to front starting with the rear axle then the central column and gearbox and lastly the front axle. Most supercars and hypercars the Zonda included are built starting with the monocoque but at the start of the build, I didn't know that so my modular chassis does not really have a monocoque. Each section comes together very nicely requiring only a few pins. I tried to build the bodywork modularly as well but that just wasn't really working. the bodywork though is very sturdy though and altogether you can pick the car up by the roof or the back or the front. Similar to the real car, at least what I think, the steering wheel lock to lock is about 3 turns. Due to complications in space, I extended the wheel hub to give the car steering in which the inner wheel turns more than the outer wheel. I didn't do the triangle thing to see if it actually met the specifics of Ackerman steering geometry but it's close enough you get the idea. here is a before and after pic of what I mean The Real Zonda does not feature a frunk but yet for some reason unknown to me Pagani made the car have an opening bonnet/hood. And of course, it has a rear clamshell which reveals the v12 along with some storage compartments on the side. I decided not to include those side storage compartments because they ended up being too small and as a result looked really stupid when the clamshell was open. Anyways here are some more photos most of these pics are a 3d model of the car because some people don't seem to like multicolored cars. I do plan on eventually buying pieces in the correct color so that I can have a non-multicolored car but right now buying pieces from Lego is really slow, probably because of the pandemic. But I kinda like the 3d model though because it doesn't look super fake and you can also have pieces in chrome whereas you would have to go through a 3rd party to get chrome pieces. Let me know what you think. Also, how do you change your profile pic?

nice design. Im very interested to see how the ride height adjustment will work. do the beams in the back actually provide a lot of structual support as they do in the real car

Nice build, crazy amount of details and functions. I think the front hood looks disproportionately large compared to the rest of the car. Also, on the front suspension, you mentioned that the spring just twists when the car is being steered, won't that mess up the spring eventually?

ah I see what u mean I would recommend having a thinner area of black then

did u run out of neon green panels for the hood bc the black looks super ugly? especially the birds-eye view just makes it look like a giant gap

I have practically completed the car here are some pics front views, a look from the rear window under the front bonnet rear clamshell rear view what the rear end should look like so ya the car is practically done. from the last post, I added the front bonnet, rear wings, HOG steering, front end. I changed the Dash and front a lot. rn I'm working on fine details and trying to fill up some ugly gaps. I have to admit tho I think the car is kinda losing the shape of the real car.pls let me know what you think, any changes I should make

interesting design I don't think I've ever seen a trophy truck with so much camber, the bodywork looks a little crude, but I think the real question is how good is it at off roading

the other day I was trying to create create a rear axle for a moc that I'm working on and then I ran out of steering rods and I also didn't have any of those weird ball joint connector things that the Sian has but then I came up with a solution that I think is sturdier than either: I've never seen anyone else do this before so I just wanted to share my idea. Let me know what you think it's also ALOT easier to put into LDD or Mecabricks or whater

ok i tinkered around with the previous idea and I got this. i don't think it has any problems it also has all the same benefits as the previous design pls let me know what you think

i built it irl too and it seems to work perfectly fine could u explain what u mean

that looks super cool