Zerobricks

Using CV joints from 42099 and ball joints you can easily build a proper scale live axle suspension with drive and steering.

It looks very good indeed! Maybe you could use the planetary hubs from 42099 to give it more climbing power?

Use a one-way clutch to spin wave selectors when motor is rotating in one direction. And use another one-way clutch to spin the selected output.

Just copy paste the video link, no embedding necessary.

The red gear might slip if you don't have anything pushing it inside. That is why I'm using a combination of a worm gear and 8 tooth gear so the switching lever can't be pushed out. I omitted the central differential because it would reduce the offroad performance. As requested here is the driveline of the vehicle: Actually, the wheels are from Unimog, it's a 1:10 scale. I do hope Held gets it eventually!

Awesome model and renders, Mike. A couplke of suggestions. Moving the front shock absorbers in the center of the suspension arm, or having 2 on each side will make the suspesnion work MUCH MUCH smoother. I would also use a proper live axle to prevent the rear suspension from trying to jacknife and lift the rear, but of course that would add complexity. Regarding LDD It has been updated by fans, check the topic here: You can find RC motors, BuWizz, etc there.

I'd prefer an already used color like purple instead of making another one. It was used in only 2 technic sets and abandoned

Most of the offroad scenes were recorded in low gear, high gear was used when driving on flat sand though. The gear ratios are quite close, only being 1,67 apart. Originally I wanted to have more gearing down in the gerabox and less gearing on the axles, but it proved too much for the gearbox, so I had to redesign the driveline. Any more gearing up than 1,67 could cause the axles to start melting under such high RPM.

And I spotted another new panel. the edge of the Jeep's hood and the blue panel which is the middle of Sienna's bodywork and also acts like an airscoop. Seems to be a 2x3 panel with a cross hole and an edge.

Is that a blue 3x7 panel as a hood in the buggy?

I was planning to build an improved and updated version of my old 6x6 from 2013 when i got an offer for cooperation from Mouldking which gave me an additional motiviation to design this model. I decided to go with a 1:10 scale, which would be perfect for the Unimog tyres. The final model dimensions are 60 x 22 x 24 cm Thanks to the all the amazing work done by fans updating the LDD, I was able to design the model as a modular build made out of a total of over 3100 pieces: A high number of pieces was needed to made this as detailed representation of the real model as possible. Starting under the hood, there is a detailed working V8 engine connected to the 2 drive motors: Inside the cabin there is a working steering wheel connected to the servo motor along with a detailed center console: Rear seats and the console between them can be folded to access the BuWizz bricks from the inside: Or you can simlpy fold down the rear wall inside the bed: The rear suspension and axles have been designed in such a way to maximize the volume of the bed, which is 15 studs wide, 20 studs long and 6 studs deep, making it my biggest truck bed to date: As you can see all the doors, hood and tailgate can be opened. The front doors even feature limiters: Now going from the aesthetics to functionality: The model features a 6x6 drive which can be powered by a pair of RC, Monster or upcoming BuWizz motors. Power is transfered to all the axles via a 2 speed gearbox. Each axle has a 1:12,6 gear ratio, allowing the 3kg heavy model to crawl over larger obstacles with ease. Low gear has a 1:12,6 gear ratiom while the high gear is overdrive, featuring a gear ratio of 1:7,56, allowing for higher speeds. Just like the real vehicle, the model uses live axle suspension with different spring rates. First and second axles use hard shock absorbers while the rear-most axle uses the soft version. Each axle uses a panhard rod with the rear axles uses two for even greater robustness Of course, I can't forget the most important photo: And finally here's a video of the model in action:

So it's been a quick mash-up and a PhotoShop edit for a concept. Self-driving car would be awesome though.

jaaay, the violet color is back!

Brilliant idea using the drum as a silos!

Thank you, I reported the issue. In the future, please use the contact form on the page to report any issues, it's much faster.

The LDD file has all the pieces, please refer to it.

There are photos of the WIP build on the previous page.

Few things bother me with that "leak" How are lights shining if none are included? Even if they used the sensor bricks, it means they have to use 2 and they need 7 ports in total. How is Porsche logo printed on wheel nuts, when they are rounded? What are 4 motor used for? For drive and steering 2 or 3 are enough. On the other hand the graphics behind the model do look quite accurate and well designed... either it's a real concept, hastly desigend together like they did with those LED add-ons, or someone trying really hard to make a fake model. EDIT: on second inspection, the graphics are from the original set, they were NOT updated to include the ultrasound sensor. I'm leaning more towards fake.

It can be ither the front or rear differential, which leaves you only 2 points in instructions.

I built a mech a loooong time ago. Maybe it can help you:

Wow, ain't she a beauty! Did you wire the LEDs yourselvf or did you use an exisiting product?

The independent axle don't shift at once, either of them shifts to low gear, depending on the motor direction.

I managed to VASTLY improve the design so now the flywheels i no longer needed and the gearbox now works in both directions. Of course I built the gearbox from real bricks and it works much better than first evrsion. If you look at the internals, the high gear is powered directly on the lower axle. The low gears take the longer route on the sides (bypass) and meet up at the yellow output shaft with a 1:3 gear ratio. Because I used 2 shafts for the low gear, the gerabox can switch regardless of the direction the motor is rotating. By modfiyng the design, the gearbox can be upgraded to several options: a 3 speed bidirectional version by allowing the wave selector to turn additional 90 degrees and adding an even higher low gear above the selector a 3 or 4 speed monodirectional gearbox where each of the bypass axles allows for a different gear ratio I will create a video of the real gearbox in action as soon as I find some time. I'm actually very proud of this baby, it's my best automatic gearbox as of yet!

That's also a very good idea. Remember to give your electronic gearbox some hysterises and delay time so it wont shift too often or oscilate.

Yes, it could easily be expanded to 4 speed. I think using several motors to give us more shifting power and weight would allow to use a smaller maybe geared-up flyweight.