Zerobricks

This model (and it's prototypes) are a result of the following topics: Basically the idea behind this project is to make an offroader capable of driving on all kinds of terrain with a simillar perofrmance as the Wildcat 6x6 but having a lower weight So, why would I want to reduce the weight? While the wildcat 6x6 works great most of the time, it's high weight of 2,5-3 kg has some drawbacks: The model requires a lot of expensive electronics (12 BuWizz motors, 6 BuWizz 3.0 bricks) High part count (1869 pieces) Tendecy of front wheels falling off at hard landings High wear and tear of the individual components, which lead to premature failure - planetary hubs, CV joints And lastly high wear and tear of the handler due to it's heavy weight Of course decreasing the weight also means decreasing the power to weight ratio, since there will always be components which are needed regardless of the number od drive motors like wheels, hubs, steering system, suspension and frame. The first protoype, which I simply call Light 4x4 used only 2 BuWizz motors coupled to a 2 speed gearbox: While the model worked good in low gear, the high gear proved much trickier. The single gearbox put a lof of strain on the drive axle in high gear, causing it to melt, even with lubrication. Another issue was the high load of the motors in high gear, resulting in them overheating, while the motor could not even remotely apporach the 15 km/h top speed of the Wildcat 6x6. But not all was bad, I really liked the free-moving front suspension which acts like a suspended pendular axle, while having a much lower unspring weight. While I could make the rear suspension act like a pendular axle instead off front, i decided agaisnt it, since most of the weight is shifted back when crawling and I wanted to keep the rear stable. With that knowledge, I went back to the drawing board and decided to up the power for the next version... Medium 4x4 prototype: This version used 4 BuWizz motors coupled in a manner simillar to my 1:10 Acura NSX which negates the sideways load on the output axle of the gearbox. As you can see, this version was quite bigger and it used the reinforced differentials. The increased power drastically improved the performance, the top speed and overall power being simillar to the Wildcat 6x6. BUT the model had a few problems, main being the exposed gearbox which would get clogged and jam while driving outside. This version was aslo wider compared to the first prototype. Medium version prototype 2: This is another concept where the entire front axle is designed to pivot, but I ultimately decided to go agaisnt it due to the higher center of gravity and higher unspring mass. The final, universal 4x4 model: I have built and tested the model, but have yet to make any media, that's why I'm using LDD photos for now. I had to way to make the model more ingress resistant and narrower. This is where I came up with the idea of using the new, reinforced differentials as 28 tooth clutch gears for the high gear of the gearbox: This way the gearbox's output axle was moved a stud lower, allowing me to cover the bottom of the model with panels which prevent the dirt from getting into the gearbox without sacrificing ground clearance: The model inherited the front axle from the prototypes which acts like a free pendular axle. This keeps the weight even on both side of the suspension sosimple open differentials sufficed without a need for lockers. The gear ratios are a bit of a compromise comapred to the Wildcat 6x6, with low gear being 0,89x the ratio and high gear being 0,83x the ratio. Even with these differences, the model still reaches a very simillar speed in high gear, probably due to lower friction losses and lower rolling resistance. All in all I think this is a worthy successur to the Wildcat 6x6, even though it may not be as flashy, massive or functional (no skid steering). Final part count is 774 pieces which is 41% od the Wildcat 6x6 and the weight has been reduced to around 1,4 kg - around half of the Wildcat 6x6. I will be creating a proper in-depth video about the finished models and the protoypes, so I suggest you to watch this space for more upcoming details.

So after a year of driving the model on the snow, in the dust, grass, rocks, at the BuWizz camp and finally at the Bricking Bavaria, this happened while powersliding in high gear: After a close inspection another hub showed signs of imminent failure: So what seems to happen is that the edge holding the hub inside the casing wears down over time enough for it to simply pop out. Now you have to keep in mind that these hubs are from 2019 and have been used in much higher speeds, loads than they were designed for, not to mention dirty environments. What do you think? Should I get some new hubs and keep the model assembled or retire it? What's certain is that I will be focusing on lighter models in the future which will stress the individual components less.

I'm sorry, I have yet to get a reply, wish there was more I could do...

Wow, that was really quick! I imagine the small triangle panels just required a bit of trimming, and the angular panel could be stitched by 2 normal ones. But the fender looks a bit more tricky. Any way to get these parts into LDD pack before the end of the year?

I could have printed some custom wheels for you too. Well done regardless!

It's a full W16, you can see another row of cylinders behind. Seems like most of the new panels are simillar to the new ones in the new Ferrari's, just in smaller scale, 1x3 instead of 1x5 size. Also I think the angled panel has the same angle as #2 connector, 22,5 degrees. All in all a great little set, though having AWD like the real one would make it even better!

I tested it again, the parts fit loose, but quite deep together, so there should be no risk of skipping. The only thing you have to watch out for is not breaking the 18587 or letting it slip out. I will be at Bricking Bavaria and I can bring a 18587 part with me.

I suggest you use 16 tooth gears insetad of 24 and 8, it will run much smoother that way.

Wow, looks really good. Can't wait to see how it performs!

Impressive indeed. What's the wheel diameter and the current weight?

Yes. For example orange 3x11 panel was used in the Raptor, but also reused the AT-AT walker. It's all about logistics and manufacturing optimization.

Yes, a single BuWizz 2.0 can only run a single BuWizz motor in fast/ludicrous mode.

Some 64 stud long axles could be useful for foosball

Thank you for the nice words, it really made my day I think you did an awesome job with the model and I see you put a lot of effort to explain about it's functionality in the YouTube video. Regarding the forum content, I suggest you add a few photos of the model and a bit of description, since people here appreciate to see more details before checking the videos.

I'd say enough to spin all the wheels under it's weight on a normal ground or to climb at least 45 degrees up a hill.. Anything more is a waste and anything less might be too litte.

Sorry, don't know, but you can write a ticket and I will forward it.

BuWizz 1.0 and 2.0 do indeed have different antennas, but I don't know the specifics. The one one the photo is 1.0.

BuWizz 2.0 has a small wire for antenna and 3.0 has antenna from metal.

From my experience the PU XL motors are hughly prone to dying. It seems the electric motors no longer use carbon brushes and are therefore more sensitive to overload.

Yes, ecactly.

I suggest you add something to stop the 3L axles with stop from sliding out of the portal hubs.

That's massive indeed. Hope to see more photos, especially the hub assembly. I'd assume you are using large turntables to hold the wheels?

Yes, but not fully through.

You can connect motors driving left side to one channel, motors driving the right side to second channel, steering to third and you have a channel free.

Agreed, a proper V6 or inline 4 would look more realistic and would probably work smoother. Otherwise it's a very good and unique set and a very pleasent building experience.