Zerobricks

Thanks for the replies guys, though I expected a bit more feedback TBH. Anyway I wanted to update the model with a special LA setup which allows the actuators to pull and push with massive amounts of force, more than what the internal clutch allows. After experimenting a bit with the LA setup before installing it and trying to lift a load of 2 kilograms the linear actuators started to spin the rams around the plastic bit... Here's what I found on a close examination: So NEVER EVER use such a setup, or else you will ruin your LA's. Thankfully these were the old, unlubricated design. I am going to start working on a video and better pictures as soon as the weather clears up.

Like I said split the model in smaller modules/files.

Guess you overdid it... Did you split the model into smaller ones as suggested?

You are getting close to where LDD starts to get unstable, around 20k is the upper limit as far as I know

UPDATE. You can delete all IR receivers and use any kind of PF/NXT wire to change colors, just keep adding wires until you found the color you like. Keep that wire and delete all others.

How many pieces you have? I suggest you to lower all gaphical settinsg to minimum and split the file into several small ones in order to keep the program stable. You dont want a large corrupted file, trust me.

Playing in LDD I managed to use a bugged color to create a file which in the shown example changes the colors randomly. The colors are taken from hundreds of PF receiver outputs. Here are just a few examples of the hundreds possible colors that can be generated Before you use the file mare sure your shader match as following: After opening the file with correct settings just move over the car and it will change color to a random one. Click here to download the random color generator file

11 studs long axle has been added to LDD today, so in short.... 11 M axle confirmed!

63037 flex cable 88mm bugs out when used with flex tool.

One seat, coming up! Now I used a lower angle than that suggested on the pictures. Only 2 parts are not interconnected, but the seat as a whole is connected. Download: www.bricksafe.com/files/Zblj/Misc/madocca%20supercar%20seat.lxf

PF L and Servo motor are missing the wire plugs.

Well done, but someone forgot the plugs for the L and servo motor?

DrJB need LDD help? Please share the file and a picture of parts that wont fit.

First of all thanks to everyone who watched me building, total build time was over 16 hours. So the end result (besides bleeding fingers) is this baby. I will try to take better pictures during the week , but this thing is really massive (85cm), so I will try outdoor. Side 3/4 view. Some colors were changed compared to LDD due to lack of needed colors. Rear view. Notice the large clearance under wheels. The loading arm ready to lift the pallete. Sadly it cannot lift very heavy objects, but it works. Lifting power is provided by two autopumps, which you can see here: One of the biggest headaches while building this model were the two X24 engines, since they are really hard to build and keep from falling apart. Each is powered by one drive side. The interrior is nice and full. There are 3 seats, steering wheek, gearbox handle and some lights: And a photo showign off lights: And lastly the underside of the beast: So final thoughts? ITS MASSIVE. Due to the interconnected structure, you have to build the model in a very specific order, or else it will not go together. The chassis is a bit softer than expected, but it has no problems supporting the weight of 42030 with power puller wheels while driving over obstacles. Drivelines works okay if you dont lock the wheels. Doing that will cause the red catchover rings to break their dogteeth and differentials will meet the same faith. But this only happened twice while holding wheels, pushing against a wall and spinning all 10 wheels is not a problem. Gearbox was redesigned with worm gears to keep the driverings in gears, The suspension has a lot of travel (5+ studs) and really takes abuse, especially in the front where most weight is (when unloaded). The whole model is surprisingly fast in high gear, yet powerfull enough to clear quite high obstacles. In low gear the truck can skid steer but that puts a lot of strain on the driveline. Due to 8 steered wheels the model is quite maneuverable for its size, you can disable rear wheel steering via a PF switch to reduce power consumption for outdoor use. Power consumption is quite high though, 6L motors, 2 servos and 3M motors consume a lot of current from the two battery boxes. All in all it I am very pleased with it, there are some small faults, but thats what you can expect when building from digital to real world. I may change the LDD file to match the real version, but if anyone will try to remake one, expect to think 10 steps ahead while building, since as before mentioned the model is so interconnected. As mentioned before expect better pictures and a video soon.

I spent few days to sort some of my pieces and improvised a double story shelf on which I can put the sorting boxes. Who says old bionicle cylinders and plastic cubs aint useful On the top shelf, there are mostly beams, pins and axles sorted by size and shape. Going lower, there are mostly bigger elements like panels, piston elements, suspension parts and gears. And lastly on the floor there is a sliding box with wheels containing all the parts I havent sorted yet and parts that are too big to fit in the sorting trays: And to keep the shelf from accidentally toppling there are some beams wedged between the upper plank and the wall: I know it may not be the prettiest solution, but hey if its stupid and it works, its not stupid!

I dont understand your first question. I think you can see the way power is transfered via CV joint? EDIT: Oh I think what you mean, main power to the diff. Siple use another U joint and transfer power as you would to a live axle. POC stands for proof of concept, a moderator or admin, shortened the title.

Also, I tink using any other battery box, but the AA one for technic would seem....not technic style, if you get my drift. The smaller battery boxes are all studded and in not-odd sizes, so they dont fit so well in modern studdles, odd-numbered technic system. Also as long as TLG doesnt do too many exclusive parts (like pre-2000's) for a specific set I dont mind it. But its nice if the parts are rerelased in other sets later on (like tumbler wheels, or portal hubs, ball joints and springs in the unimog). Having said that I am still waiting for a set to use the Mobile crane MKII's sliding red 8 tooth gears, Volvo's showel and the Arocs's sliding parts (which IMO could be used nicely on the new Xerion's arm).

Paste the video URL and remove the S from https://www.youtube......

After watching some youtube videos I noticed some trucks had some weird suspension on them... It looked something like this: So naturally I started investigating and found that this is a type of setup called a twin beam suspension. So I tried to replicate one in Lego. To explain the concept behind this hybrid, here's a series of stages leading from live axle suspension to the double beam setup: In order: Yellow setup is a live axle Red setup represent the change from dependent suspesnion to independent suspension By extending the half axle lengths (blue) we get a lower change in wheel angle relative to the drive surface (camber) And finally by extending the swing arms PASS the center point we get a double beam suspension And here's a version with drive and steering: So what are the advantages compared to the live axle? - Its independent, which as name suggest aloows the wheel to work independent from each other - Lower unsprung weight - Less moving parts - to keep a live axle in place you need several linkages. Here the axle pivots around one central point And disadvantages? - Complex design, the axles have to be made to travel pass each other without interfering. - A need for a CV joint which needs to allow the axle to slide in and out - Not as robust - Hard to implement portal gears without making the wheels slide sideways excessively - Camber changes are still present I also made a video explanation of the principe. You can skip to 4:30 to see the final version in action: So the final question. Is it useful? Fo me as far as the Lego version goes....no. The disadvantages outweigh any possible advantages. Also lately I have been working a lot on long travel double wishbone suspension which outperform any other previous suspension system in almost all categories. The only usefulness in this design I see is realism, if you are building a replica of a truck that has such suspnesion. Because I want to hear your opinion, here's the LDD link to the suspension, so you can try to make your version and improve upon my prototype: Download prototype here

I also built the AMG 6x6 model, here's the topic: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=81548&st=0 and the video:

Try using the larger version of joints, the one with 3L diameter.

I think this mechanism would be a great add-on for multi-axled machines such as cranes where wheels can steer either in normal or crab fashion and where you cant afford slack/desynchronisations between axles. I'd like to see an 8 wheel version of this. Kudos to Barman.

If you are going to use all axle steering than you need to decide where the steering point will be. I would suggest you to leave the second axle unsteered to simplify design. Than just use it as the line where the steering point will be located.

You simply offset steering point away from the wheel of the front hubs until you get an angle needed. Trial and error. But in most models I made I neglected ackermann geometry, or just used a slight ratio, which happens when using steering links. You dont have a serious advantage, especially if you have locked differentials. IMO its better to do a sturdy non-ackermann steering than a complex-easy-to break perfect ackermann steering... Depends on the use too, will you take the model offroad? Also here's an example for 8x8:

First draw a point where you want to turn around. Usualy that point is located on a line parallel to the rear axle (if unsteered). Now steer the wheels in such a manner that their imaginary perpedicular lines all point in the same point. Here's an example picture: Also, here's also a picture on how to set the steering arms: