brunojj1

The given chassis of the manual version had to be adapted for RC and this solution seemed to be suitable regarding available space, since the bodywork and coresponding attachment points should stay. You argument about the V2 is valid. I really had no intention to mislead people. However - I have changed the iventory to V2, although a normal one will work fine as well. Moreover TLC has updated V1 recently and most people buy it from there, although I don´t know how its performance has been improved exactly. A good (not equal of course) replacement for the darn expensive wheel covers would be these 3D - printed wheel covers from sevenstuds, which I´m using too as alternatives.

Thanks to you all for the positive feedback, guys! You make my day . I made that decision too at some time when some lava orange car came around the corner ... We will see what the future will bring. Thanks man, it means a lot! You have found at least one more creative way to use these panels. Yeah, unfortunately you will barely see it from above, even if you remove the easily detachable engine hood (attached only by 4x 4L axles with stop). From the side, looking through the wheel house, you can see the pistons moving though. Yes, you can choose any of the bodies to mount on top of one of both chassis. I don´t know if somebody tried to couple XL and L motors before, at least I did it already in a few models so far. If you mix the gear reductions addequately, such as 3:1 (XL) and 5:3 (L), you come to the right torque equivalent and both motors support each other in a nice way. I had to install a pole reverser though between one of the motors, because both motors are connected to the same channel - otherwise the outputs would turn in opposing directions. Thanks Jeroen, I appreciate your critique about the "aerodynamic" scoops , although I still think they fit rather properly than look messy. The bodywork cannot be called really modular, but I tried to use as few subassemblies as possible. Would be a very nice challenge to try a complete detachable body some day. As far as I know, V2 receivers have become very rare. The rechargeable accumulator has been replaced by a cheaper battery as well, to not scare off some people about the estimated total parts cost ... Thanks, Maté! I´m sorry, this never will happen, I have some other projects in the (long) queue. I have big respect for your Audi - it is good as it is, otherwise you wouldn´t have been invited to the track and to the real Audi staff. Let others compare the cars in the lineup, we both don´t need to do it IMO .

In 2017 the AMG company is celebrating its 50th jubilee - congratulations on this occasion! Now here is my tribute, although it wasn´t the main intention to build for that purpose. Back in 2015 we´ve had a fun project, the BMW M4 DTM which was echoed by fellows around here far more than I expected and it opened many opportunities for cooperation with other specialists to round up the MOC. Together with Lipko´s Audi RS5 DTM a Mercedes still was missing in the line-up of some collectors though. One of them, our dear EB fellow filus followed the idea strongly and thanks to his accompaniment we elaborated the AMG C63 DTM racecar of the 2015 season. The whole project turned out to generate more fun (and challenges) as assumed. To make everything more interesting, a lot more time has been invested than planned first and more diversity was created resulting in 2 different chassis – manual and PF. On top 2 different exchangeable liveries. The quality of the model was on priority and can be considered as far better than the quality of e.g. the BMW M4 DTM. Parts rarely fall off when the car meets bumps and walls. You can even lift the car by the roof without damaging anything. Testing both models with kids of all ages between 2 and 10 years showed some robustness and reliability above average. Thanks to all participants involved in the process! Custom stickers were provided by Jaap (Jaap Technic) again, who did a fabulous job, and these really made up the icing on the cake. Thorsten Spelz produced extraordinary detailed separate instructions for both chassis and both liveries which allows to choose the desired individual setup and color scheme. Sorry in advance that these can´t be offered for free, because too many careful efforts, costly parts and countless hours of work have gone into the project. Manual chassis: Most of the development has gone into the manual chassis. I had to try it once and I´m glad I managed to make a “simple” but fool proof shifting mechanism which relies on shock springs only. No rubber bands used and the shifting parts itself retract by gravity only (which doesn´t allow 10 shifts per second though, who cares). Especially the beautiful engine sound is a nice feature – btw it´s also a kind of gear indicator – after some time playing you can distinguish the actual selected gear by the different sound and resistance while pushing the car. A white 24-teeth gear has been installed between differential and gearbox, preventing gears from damage when pushed too hard – a bit similar to the 42056 Porsche setup ;-). - dimensions in studs (L/W): 61/25 - independent wheel suspension - 4 – speed gearbox - 2 manual shifters (up and down) and steering in comfortable position above the rear axle - working steering wheel - mini fake V8 engine RC chassis: Nothing special and no new big achievements here probably. Anyway I´m very satisfied how good all together works. The XL motor geared down 3:1 works flawlessly together with the L motor geared down by 5:3 ratio – absolutely no grinding at the differential between both motors which is another good indicator of efficiency. As you can see in the video, the cars´ speed is reasonable for indoor and is almost the same compared to the BMW (stronger) equipment. Comparison here: BMW is driven by 2 XL motors; gear reduction 3:1. - dimensions in studs (L/W): 61/25 - independent wheel suspension - remote driving and steering - LED lights - PF equipment: 1 XL motor + 1 L motor for drive, 1 servo motor for steering, 1 pole reverser, 3 LED pairs (2 front, 1 rear), 1 extension wire, 1 battery, 1 IR V2 receiver, 1 IR remote - SBrick compatible (replaces receiver, remote and pole reverser) Bodywork dimensions in studs: length 61 studs (without rear spoiler); width 25 studs (without mirrors); height 15,5 studs - openable doors - easily removable rear spoiler and engine hood - custom stickers corresponding the looks of the real cars - roll cage under the roof - Technic panels count: 51 “Silberpfeil” livery - #6 Robert Wickens The new orange parts from the 42056 set allowed replicating the distinguished color scheme of this nice livery. I like especially that the round shaped roof could be made using the 13x3 bowed panels. Unfortunately Silver beams and panels are not really available, so these parts have been made in white. The stickers with the particular energy tin make it very special IMO. “AMG” livery - #3 Paul di Resta The white/black color combo may seem nothing spectacular nowadays, but with the slight red accents and the stickers in particular it makes an equal counterpart to the other variant. The roof couldn´t be built the same way and its shape turned out a bit different, unfortunately the new 13x3 bowed panels, to be released in 2H in black color, were too far on the horizon during the design process. Anyway the overall parts availability is great and I guess this version will be the preferred option for most who want to rebuild it. And here the mandatory videos: More pictures can be seen at my bricksafe. Instructions and stickers are available. Enjoy and have fun !

I love that hatchback- its neat appearance, the speed, the clever designed drivetrain and caster angle at the front axle. Too bad the performance of the steering is affected as much... Anyway, I think you don´t really need that trophy !

I didn´t know the colors are as much differentiated. The right color coding would be helpful especially at this part to determine their hardness. Instead we get a new hard shock absorber e.g. in the Porsche in red color. Moreover I have noticed they are even a bit harder than the yellow hard shocks. Confusing...

Looks very good already ! Nice to see the rollover mechanism working, not covered by the bodywork. I agree with the black seats too, they would look great on the chassis without bodywork, giving contrast to the LBG/DBG frame. Á propos contrast - your pictures need a bit more of that to match the brightness of those colorful renders .

Very nice color scheme, I like it way more than the orange ! My son immediately said "cool!" when he saw this picture. Concerning third party discussion - TLC could do something about the copycats and simply make available the parts in more colors very soon. Many people would close both eyes and buy these panels at BL or whatever in white or red, since their quality seems to be equal. And this would be a neutral AFOL standpoint IMHO without "celebrating" anything.

@Thorsten50: Great job on the instructions as always ! I´m actually a bit confused because I thought that James Tilson is the original designer of this great car ... No offense - I´m just curious - how was my friend Rishab involved into the work?

The resemblance to the 8880 on these pictures is really stunnung and surprised me, although you have said it earlier! That shows clearly that you successfully followed in the basic conceptional steps of the ultimate supercar of our childhood . Did you use the 8th letter in the alphabet for that reason to "mark" it ? The old one delivers 2 more functions such as rear wheel steering and pop-up headlights, but no offense to you . Yours looks much more sporty and for sure is much more rigid and resilient. Btw a few weeks ago I gathered all the old parts, including the yellowed white parts, and rebuilt mine 8880, which I probably won´t disassemble ever again. I have to admit that compared to modern studless models it looks quite bulky, unproportional and "unfiinished" and the bodywork is fragile (e.g. secured by 1/2 bushes on the outside), but the nostalgy is worth to have it always on display.

Congrats, good job as always! How do you manage to make so many nice supercars in short time ?.. I like especially the very clever geometry behind the convertible roof construction ! Anyway - some critique points I have to issue about this build: the doors should open much further and the front wheel arch could be more consistent. But of course I know how much it costs to develop these. Moreover nobody will pay all efforts to create "perfection". Edit: I´ve noticed that there is this 3 stud red piece missing under the door on the right side if you compare the video shot and the picture above (?...)

I´ve built it from spare parts, thanks TLC for uploading the building instructions! My kids and I were surprised about the very good performance and enjoy this fun vehicle ! L motors are not designed for V2 receivers, but simply are more power hungry - stalled current 1.300mA each compared to 850mA in a M motor (according to Philo). V2 receivers have a higher current limit though and are better of course and more expensive since not being available on the official platform as far as I know. What does he say? Please quote such relevant information here since not everybody likes to use Fakeboost or something. Thanks in advance!

Other than that: MOC (in your title) means My Own Creation and this is not your creation.

I really enjoyed this review, especially after having seen the Moby Dick movie “In the heart of the sea” in the evening! And then the “can it float?” test which I somehow have expected + “play theme sinking ship“ comment hahaha ... Seriously – it´s a great set, mainly because it´s aimed to the younger clientele, fortunately many of the new sets do so. Kids probably won´t care so much if it doesn´t look as good as the bricked counterparts or being not perfectly in scale for minifugures (as long as they fit somehow) and in general I like the fact that pieces don´t fall off as quickly from robust Technic models & fly around in the children´s room. I see some fun potential in the set, let the ship drive around over the bathtubs´ edge if it can´t float

First of all - welcome to EB and a happy New Year to everybody! To your "problem" : You shouldn´t be worried at all and if you want him develop further, I would say let him rather disassemble a few sets and do what he wants to do finding out for himself. If he could develop such skills at this age already asking "what´s next?" - he should try to do something new out of his own mind. I wish my 7 year old son had this passion and making such efforts ... And by the way - he should find the needed parts himself as well !

I think it´s impossible. IMO the only way to shift by one input only by the following scheme: 1. FOR - 2. FOF - 3. ORR - 4. ORF - 5. ROR - 6. ROF

It´s not impossible, even if this is a very delicate task though. You need 2 driving rings changing position F-O-R-O-F each and a third driving ring which has a F-R-F sequence. This way it can be shifted by 1 input only. Good luck with it and keep the topic updated with any progress !

Looks very sporty already - reminds me more of the good old 8865 than 8880 ! Yes, why not go your own style in the old "traditional" way - having a clear concept is more important than using panels at whatever cost. Working with bigger panels requires to work at the real model, using your immagination of the shapes and trying to fit them filling big surfaces and design everything else around them. For me it would be impossible to do it in LDD.

Nice build, thanks for sharing! I like the color scheme and angled body lines very much ! Although this was probably not your biggest challenge so far, you could have implemented some interesting AWD mode in this vehicle. The air ride function is neat though. What are those chromed exhaust pipes - same parts as in your Hennessey?

You are right, this has nothing to do with Mercedes. Currently I'm building a Silberpfeil of another kind, so maybe that's why I have confused this one .. Different story with the Ferrari sets anyway which are licensed indeed.

I kind of disagree to call the Racers line non-Technic only because of the different tags on them. Especially when it comes to the beginning of the studless era in which the most of them were produced. For example if we compare 2 of the Formula 1 sets – the 8458 “Silver Champion” released in 2000 which has the “Technic” tag and the 8461 “Williams F1 racer” released 2 years later but marked as a “Racers” set, I can´t see any other major difference in classification. Therefore we could consider them both as “licenced” Technic sets, in line with the 8674 Ferrari F1 in the same scale, then the smaller 8386 F1 set and of course the 8145 Fiorano and 8653 Enzo sets. I´d rather draw the border to the 8157 – another Ferrari F1 set which is brick built only.

The pole reverser is a very useful element I´m having a lot of fun with. The redundant black polarity switch on the pole reverser doesn´t make a lot of sense to implement in the product from the beginning. What really doesn´t make any sense to me in this case is the statement because removing the polarity switch doesn´t save development costs or contribute to customers satisfaction, rather seems to create even more confusion...

I will follow some speed build then even if it´s not as interesting for my son (7 years old), but thank you guys ! Anyway, can´t understand why instructions aren´t online on pair with the other new sets.

Being able to build this set from spare parts for my kids (in other colors), unfortunately I can´t find any online instructions for it, neither at the official Lego.com instructions website, nor does the new app contain it, although this set is released already. Can anybody help?

I was actually thinking the red Porsche springs are new unique type (and specified by the red color) which indeed are harder than the "normal" yellow springs . You are using red springs while saying they have the "normal" hardness?... Is it good or bad? Does your emoji tell us that you are not completely satisfied with it?.. Another odd question: is it allowed now to embed huge pictures of bigger size than 1000 pixels? EDIT: it looks great! (although the LDD tires substitus are disgusting)

Hehe, sometimes I am, thanks ! Looks beautiful, thanks also for disclosing the rear view ! The slope tiles look a bit out of place though, but sure you will fit them either. Yeah, I like those games on the almost subconscious level, just marginal but they make the essential difference on the final look. The roof seems a bit too high as it is now, even if the total height matches your blueprints, the line would look better slowly descending towards the rear like in the real model. I know, you can´t do anything about the grey flex axles´ length variations, they kind of decide the roof curve. At my current MOC I´m using the same 3x13 round panels for the roof. The trick how to move the peak or the main „knot“ near to the A-pillar could be to tilt the panels horizontal line some 5-10 degrees backwards.