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SaperPL

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by SaperPL

  1. You can download the STL files for print here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4863373
  2. Making a small differential makes sense for builds that have small wheels or like you've shown when you want to place it inside such frame. I had the size issue with all my builds and had to use a rubber band as a washer in my crane to fit the diff... What I don't like about your solution is that it's custom pieces, but it's open. If lego does custom gearing that's not interchange'able, they close them up inside the piece as we can see with pull back motor, buggy motor, planetary gear etc. I really like how your axles look because they have the Technic aesthetic, it's "DNA", but that one diff you've made, it's completely different. I've iterated on mine, it's not entirely finished as I'm not fully satisfied with latches since they are hard to detach depending on print quality, but the rest works properly: Full gallery: https://imgur.com/a/5s4fLaJ I think if you have SLS printer, you could try making it a print-in-place that is completely closed up, obviously after prototyping with separate prints first. At this point I'm thinking whether my approach is actually useful - of course you can fit this in a frame, but why? It doesn't have clearance with 30.4 wheels, and with bigger ones you have more space. It also doesn't have clutching functionality obviously, so it's not about locking the differential.
  3. How about this? I don't have light grey filament to match the original diff colour though. It works the same as the original one - there's that bit of resistance/slowing the rotation when the one is new and it slowly gets faster. Not an easy piece to print so I made custom supports. Need a bit of cleaning the strings inside. I'm still not sure whether this should be the final design or not - the latches aren't perfect and depending on the print they may get hard to detach.
  4. That's a fair point and I'm also always agonising about the fat that this diff is just so close to the 30.4 wheels. Check out my models with those wheels, the diff always has to go up because of that. But you can't do much about it if you want to use original lego gears inside unless you want to cheat a bit by having less contact with the corresponding gear just to shave off those 2 mm of diameter, but that's still not that much of a clearance. I don't like the solution that uses custom made gears inside diff IF you are going to print that on FDM printer. Printing small gears for a diff looks like a risk of something cracking under load, so I prefer using those existing 12 tooth gears. I'm thinking about designing with a different approach though - I want to make a two piece that will resemble the new grey and red differential frame - this will make it so that the gears will be held in place and I want it to be more lego like.
  5. I've got the idea to make a 2 studs wide differential from someone on our local Lego fans forum. The challenge is that the gears inside the differential take up whole 2 studs of space already. I think the only way it can be done is making a differential frame with open sides. You can download the STL file for 3d print here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4860328 I thought this deserved a separate topic as this might be game changing for some model team builds.
  6. I wouldn't print the ball side of ball connector with 3d printer unless you have some strategy to reinforce during the print. The area between the base and the ball will be really brittle. Just make a pin socket in there where you can put the original moulded lego ball pin. I'll drop my model here as I believe this may be interesting and also if people will want it for purchase you may handle this through your shapeways (feel free to use the model): The files: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4860328
  7. Well, I am generally annoyed by a lot of pieces being fragile just to allow older gears being next to them - that's IMO why there's less material on universal joint axle connectors, bushings and those 2L and 3L axle-pin connectors. Everywhere where we have that cut on the side, the less amount of material is there so you can fit a gear next to it. But I have no idea why are there those cutouts - maybe those pieces were breaking apart even more without them? I'd really appreciate if Lego started making quality pieces that don't break so easily and maybe reduce the use of those pieces that allow space for gearing only to where they are necessary. But it's probably just a planned obsolescence for second hand sales of such parts.
  8. Really cool execution on the teeth detail and the way the body detaches so easily is also neat.
  9. That's a really good looking buggy, at least it's properly hiding the motors inside the body, but I think you should make a video showing how it works - the gearing matters, so it may be either really slow or won't be able to climb at all etc.
  10. I've got some CV-joints, but I don't really like their limited bend angle so I'm sticking to universal joints. I've made an improved version of my the custom 3d printed hub to be used with bigger wheels: In previous design the wheel axle was held just by universal joint which wasn't perfect. For bigger wheels, I had to improve it by adding some material to hold the axle properly. Without the rim tightly enclosing the hub, the bigger wheel will wobble a lot on the old hub. You can download the STL file for print here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4859345/files
  11. I've checked the library of pieces that is for microgame and it has Technics, but I don't know unity and I don't really want to use it. I know my Unreal and also ray tracing support may be useful for my project. I'll see if I can rip out those FBX files, but this is not a long term solution.
  12. I'm posting this here as I've found few similar threads about file format conversion in this section, but I haven't found a tool that would fit my requirements. I'm looking for a way to batch convert whole library of parts into FBX or OBJ so the parts can be imported into the Unreal Engine 4 project. I don't want to import whole models, I want to import whole library of parts. I have implemented parser that can interpret the ldr file format, build the model structure of parts with transforms and partially draw those parts, but there are some issues with rotation in the transform (and I'm not a graphics/engine programmer), but more importantly this approach is a bit heavy on the performance. From the legal side of things, I need a way to distribute my projects without the parts, but there needs to be a way for the user to put the ldraw files there on his own. The closest thing that could be useful is this: https://github.com/Pomax/WebGLdraw but that's from 2012 and I've seen some basic shapes defined in 2016 so It might not be the best choice to invest into making a batch converter based on this. Any thoughts on how would you approach such issue?
  13. The MOC has landed on Build-A-MOC store as a set for purchase: https://buildamoc.com/products/mini-mobile-crane This is my first time trying to allow people to get my MOC as a kit, because so far while people do like them, the entry barrier is that I use a lot of unique pieces that not everyone has and not everyone is willing to gather specific pieces through bricklink, I suppose. The instructions are still available for free on rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-72143 The platform is an interesting option if you want to let people get your MOC as a whole set.
  14. Another truck build: not entirely Technic build, more like model team approach at minifig scale, but the video is about some challenges when it comes to making something this small with RC. Not a complete success, but the video should be interesting to watch
  15. Not entirely Technic build, more like model team approach at minifig scale, but the video is about some challenges when it comes to making something this small with RC. Not a complete success, but the video should be interesting to watch
  16. Yeah, that too, just saying that I wish there was a chance for builds like this to become lego sets :)
  17. Awesome modernisation. Also this is a perfect example of how much Lego Ideas is loosing by not accepting MOCs that are too close to the sets they have or had in the past. This could be a sure winner for nostalgic Technic fans :)
  18. Really cool model. It's funny that the photo of the model looks more real than reference photo of the truck which seems like a render. I wonder though why is there a cut/blend/morph at 2:50 where you raise the tipper. Seems like each axle has its own independent buggy motor.
  19. Really neat model, I like this kind of steering, will have to try building something with this kind of steering some day :)
  20. It shows FW: 1.1.2.0 and HW 0.1.0.0 I didn't really have such issues with big hub. The two main issues so far for me with the overall use is that albeit my phone should be able to handle up to 4 bt devices at the same time, the input signal seems to die or freeze quite often and when disconnecting and reconnecting to tweak things in the profile, I often have it working only on every second connection (first connection after reconnect hangs indefinitely). So it might be something wrong with my phone's bt module after all. But the steering through servo isn't behaving so unstably on the bigger hub.
  21. That's a great tip there - thanks. It actually needed to pull the update to flash the firmware to newer version and now it works in brick controller 2. Now I have the issue that it behaves really weird as the servo is a bit unstable when going to specific position, like it was unsure if that's the actual signal. I don't have this on big hub.
  22. I just got the 88009 / HUB NO.4 and while it connects, the L and XL motors don't seem to work on it, I don't have other PoweredUP motors. There is no reaction on sliders in Devices list nor when I use the profile. I have no such issues with big technic hub. Is there something specific I should know about this hub or another way I can test whether this is an issue with the hub or with the app?
  23. I've been 3d printing some parts recently and I get the idea of filling in the gaps where Lego doesn't make a specific piece, but making a huge detailed piece that's tailored for single car is just wrong. Stuff like excavator/loader buckets, shaped mudguards etc made in a Lego kind of way that can be repurposed in various builds are cool if you can make them to look good and actually work properly, but this is just wrong and I'm standing here with a torch and pitchfork :P
  24. One additional note from me - I would put all pin sockets at the back - hide them in some ribs maybe. If you do it this way and make curved back panels symmetric vertically, they could be reversible as well. This could enable more modularity as you could have attachment points on different angles as well.
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