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SaperPL

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by SaperPL

  1. SaperPL
    Cool idea, I should probably try this. I assume this is along a big portion of the tooth? I've tried printing ball connector once and it snapped right away, so my assumption is you'd have to have it long to have some strength. Tolerances on this may be a pain, but at the same time this should hold it together properly.
  2. SaperPL
    I get what you mean, but I think you don't get the issue here - the lower blade/panel of the loader bucket needs to be slim/thin/low if you want to pick up bricks or beans or whatever from the floor. If you make the room for pin sockets, you're going up from something like 3mm off the floor to 8~9 mm as the stud thickness is 8mm and you will have it a bit off the ground if you want to show off the teeth on the other side a bit. Take a look at how the side connection looks because I had to use axles there - even there I had to figure out a way to not make it bulky as both bottom and sides are supposed to be slim.
  3. SaperPL
    The issue is that small structures made with 3d printing might be brittle depending on how the printing will go. We are operating at really small scale here in comparison to what people generally print in 3D when it comes to mechanical parts. The best way is to use existing lego pieces like pins and 3L bars because those are moulded and really rigid with some flexibility. If you can fit the connection on one side, then the other is not a problem anymore and we could even have detachable teeth from such blade, but one way or another it's going further away from "the Lego way" of connecting things. EDIT: Here are the STL files on thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4839259 Note that this is designed with bridge overhang tolerances and needs to be printed in specific orientation for the pin sockets to fit nicely with the side panels.
  4. SaperPL
    The issue is that if you want to connect them side by side, then you find yourself in a place you need to make teeth big enough or the surface thick enough to fit some kind of connection mechanism, so you either end up with the surface that is supposed to be flat being 1L thick or you end up with a tooth being 2L wide and 1L tall. I thought about using the 3L Bars for connection, but with 3d printing I think they would be unreliable for firm grip of keeping the pieces between themselves.
  5. SaperPL
    That depends on how you look at it - If they would decide to make a bucket from actual technic panels, this could mean making panels with some unique angles that could be used elsewhere. Not exactly made like I did it, but consider panels that are matching the aesthetic of existing flat and curved panels. The only piece that would be somewhat unusable in every other build would be lower surface with teeth because it needs to be in one long piece and thin to not look completely bad, but I can see something like an open garbage container on a truck using it if they maybe decided to make it without the teeth but with a straight blade. The challange would be to design the sides and curved panels in a way that they are useful in other builds.
  6. SaperPL
    11 is pretty easy, I've done a lot of builds that are 11 studs wide. Making truck with motors at 11 studs for 2 stud wide wheels is doable and then you have to think about where you want to put the hub/battery box. At 11 you can still fit a lot of details into the cab as well: Check out my channel, there's a ton of builds that are 11 studs wide there. Also some of them have free instructions on rebrickable. I'm thinking about going even smaller with 1 stud wide wheels and slim battery box, but I need to know that the i'll be able to make this steering mechanism reliable. Anyway I have a working prototype now, so I can start figuring this out in studio. Thanks!
  7. SaperPL
    I feel like this may interest you efferman - I've designed a modular loader bucket for 3d printing, that doesn't need to be printed as a whole one big piece and has a feature of adjusting mounting points thanks to being modular. It should be roughly the same size and clearances at the back as the volvo bucket as long as the studio model has reliable proportions. I will be releasing the files for printing soon, but I need to figure out how to handle printing tolerances. Maybe you could iterate more on this idea and make a definite finished product that is available for everyone at shapeways.
  8. SaperPL
    Probably not this build as it's a bit junky, but if I figure out a way for the steering to perform reliably, I'll make sure to make instructions for it. I probably need a smaller powered up hub for this, the one shaped like buwizz etc.
  9. SaperPL
    Not sure if this fits here, but for the record - steering with a string and rubber bands: Full build video:
  10. SaperPL
    Another small RC truck build:
  11. SaperPL
    Hello again guys Here's my most recent small-scale build, even smaller than usually and it's RC! It has pretty unique steering and drive mechanisms.
  12. SaperPL
    This prototype belongs here :)
  13. SaperPL
    Congrats on getting featured on TLCB: https://thelegocarblog.com/2021/04/05/man-ic-monday/
  14. SaperPL
    This time I'm revisiting my Mini American Semi Truck with some additional explanation how trailer motorised functions should be connected to the tractor with an example lowboy trailer that has steering:
  15. SaperPL
    Understandable :D Anyway make sure to check out my other instructions :)
  16. SaperPL
    This is cool as well, but I feel like the dozer is a bit better. In this model you've had to compromise on few of those features because of the lack of parts (like for example blade angle lock only in one direction), but I understand wanting to have those features. Still a cool model :)
  17. SaperPL
    Those are really cool :D Okay, I promised I'll show off my crane when it's done: Thread: MajklSpajkl already built it in red :D Meanwhile an example trailer for my American Semi:
  18. SaperPL
    I just posted this thread, but you probably saw the renders in the trucks thread. Coming to thing of it, I should post it there as well. Well, initially I thought I had to have that gearing for the steering knobs/lights at the front so I couldn't put the engine there, but after I've added the steering knob at the back, it made less sense to have those two at the front being used. It's weird for me, but for this kind of vehicle/chassis, its better to control it at the back. I might revisit this model after some time to move the engine, rework cabin to add some interior details and maybe even doors, and to check if maybe I could make it without the rare steering elements. Might also improve some stuff around the crane arm and counterweight. I did use those pieces already in my Front Engine Roadster, it's just a perfected version of that crankshaft :)
  19. SaperPL
    Since I've been noted here, some more of my mini engine constructions: The one above originates from this engine that I made for a Front Engine Roadster build, I needed to make mini V6 take less space vertically and the crankshaft is what takes 3 studs in mini V6 etc, so I used flower heads At this point in time, my connection to the crankshaft wasn't reliable, but it is perfected in the Mini Mobile Crane build. As for more classical mini fake piston engine, I believe using frames is what wastes a lot of space and thus recommend taking a look at my rear-mounted V10 assembly, where the engine frame is also frame for the differential, wheels and body around, that I used in my Cyber Cruiser and Mini Formula Race Car. Also just for the lulz, here's my multibank engine design (can't lay the bottom row flat without shenanigans pushing pistons back though) I'm not 100% sure it'll work out as I haven't built it yet - I'll build this once I've solved all other construction pieces required for the build using this engine.
  20. SaperPL
    That some gourmet stuff here. I need to start challenging myself with C-models if stuff like this is doable :D Good job/congrats on another great C-model!
  21. SaperPL
    Amazing little build - great work! I love how you used those 1x2 rubber pieces for suspension - at the beginning of the video I was curious whether the wheels will hit the body when pressed down. Also the scenes where it goes through the whole view look like it's RC which is really cool :D
  22. SaperPL
    Awesome, thanks! It really looks good with red pieces. Are planning perhaps some kind of video with it ? You've got a quite a lot of subscribers, that would help my channel a lot :D Anyway, since you liked the build and I can see you've got a ton of various bricks - check out my other instructions, especially make sure to build the Cyber Cruiser - I know it has weird suicide doors and front lights/bumper area isn't perfect, but just do it. It's worth it :)
  23. SaperPL
    I'm not so sure that the issue with cables would be that big if they could be guided, unless the bike tips over at speed which isn't good for cables, I think. Overall because of the motors length and battery box height the thing would be longer, but since you get same L-motor on the side, the construction could be symmetrical which may simplify things.
  24. SaperPL
    This is really cool. You could figure out a way to submit it to Lego Ideas (would it work with PF IR and lego battery box?) unless you want to sell instructions for it. This is really something fresh and this could be actual entry level RC kit.
  25. SaperPL
    Thanks guys! By the way, someone has notified my on my local forum that my crane was featured on TLCB: https://thelegocarblog.com/2021/04/02/mini-mechanics/
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