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Aurorasaurus

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by Aurorasaurus

  1. Recently I've been feeling cautiously curious about experimenting with hobby grade rc electronics in Lego builds, and I wanted to ask some questions just to make sure I'm not too far wrong with my understanding. From what I've read/seen other people using, a2212 seems to be the most common motor size people are using? As for receivers/controllers, I think I saw people talking about dumborc, so would that be worth looking into as a beginner wanting to get the right thing the first time? In terms of parts with bearings to avoid melting Lego, I have CAD and I'm not afraid to use it :D As for the ESC, do I just need to match the current values to the expected draw from my motor + a safety factor? I somewhat understand battery specifications, so I want to go with a 3s lipo. I hope this is enough information for someone to steer me in the right direction, thanks for reading!
  2. So that beginners can build the sets without paying much attention. Personally I think the sacrifice is well worth it.
  3. About this- the sixth port is used for an m motor which drives the fake engine. but you can easily replace it with a powered up version or use an adaptor cable. As for 2 buwizz 2s or 1, if you read the Greyhound WIP topic you can see that RacingBrick did some tests for didumos which showed that 4 L motors on 2 buwizz 2's was the most effective way to power it. I think you should go with a buwizz 3, as it'll be more versatile for future builds.
  4. Wow, your exploded view looks awesome. What a cool project!
  5. Does the flicking get faster when you try to connect to it? If so, yours is in an overloaded or whatever it is state where it just wont work. Dont charge it; let the battery completely drain, you'll have to turn it back on a few times, but once its completely dead charge it up again and it should be fine until you seriously overload it again :)
  6. What an adorable little car! Also, I really like your photos, especially the one with the leaves in the background.
  7. Thank you! Your measurements are very helpful, I will buy some cada shock absorbers now. Thanks to everyone else who helped out, too.
  8. Does anyone know if the 9l shock absorbers available in the parts section of the website are the same stiffness as 9398 shock absorbers? All my no name clone ones have springs that are too big and cause the shock to come apart, so I'm looking for something better.
  9. Firstly, the way the calibration works in brickcontroller is it picks a point at 90 degrees thats closest to the middle. So your steering axle needs to be in line correctly with your steering rack centered. Failing that, it's possible you simply got a faulty motor. I have 2 42160s for the motors and parts in them, and I haven't had any issues with those motors. I hope you can get this resolved!
  10. Personally, I prefer fully studless technic, because IME its a lot more sturdy than anything with studs. The little boxes on top of 42069, the roof box on the defender, the weird pillars on the ford ranger, they all feel like they come off too easily. But I fully agree that when it comes to accuracy, they're simply superior. Ultimately, I think system pieces can go on display sets, but not play sets. I agree with this completely. But I also wonder, how much is reasonable to expect of TLG? I think that might be the next big question for the community.. Anyway, sorry for my rambling and unclear post, its just my thoughts as they come.
  11. I think the rear looks good, the general shape feels right, and using those pins as tail lights is a nice touch. But I dont like the front so much, it looks a bit like a tractor IMO. Nice work making a video showing it driving, too. But good work anyhow, its probably better than what I could do with the set, so go you!
  12. I think it would have to match the scale of Dom's charger. I also think that it could realistically be motorised with the new hub from the Porsche. I dont usually pay attention to piece count vs price so I couldnt say which one it is from this list, but maybe its not even a 1h technic set?
  13. I think I like the Cayman better, but they both look good! The spoiler on the Cayman just fits perfectly IMO.
  14. I love it! It looks great and performs great. The video was also good, you found some really good locations to film at and put a lot of effort into the video and it shows. One thing I noticed was the subtitles describing the model were on screen barely long enough for me to read. The footage of the studio model spinning around also felt a bit quick. But overall, I think you've done a wonderful job!
  15. Me too, thats been my favourite thing after switching to android. But to get back onto topic, no, you cant download and install apk files on IOS, this is changing in the EU soon though, hopefully. As for @Boathill's problem, my number one solution would be brickcontroller 2. Best of luck!
  16. Perhaps they motorised the doors or something...
  17. Voted! I didn't follow this competition all that closely, but all of the entries look really good. Nice work everybody!
  18. You can use an image hosting site like bricksafe or flickr, then copy the link to the individual photos and paste it inside your post. It should embed and display the image for you. As for displaying your cars, maybe you could do all the cars in a series (1:8, F1) in one column of a shelving unit?
  19. Thats awesome, I really like the version with the wide track width, it looks exactly like what comes to mind when you call it "Dune Basher". I think it has some sort of childish joy in it, and that's really special.
  20. A space shuttle is a pretty generic shape, so it's going to be hard for anyone to be truly unique after the first one, IMO.
  21. Heya! Firstly, thank you to everyone who's worked on keeping LDD functional! Now on to my problem.. I cant find This Part in LDD, I've tried searching for peg, bar, pin, and then (perhaps not carefully enough) checking all the categories, using extended mode. I also made sure I updated my LDD today, just in case. Thank you for your time! Edit: Part #61184 3 w.arch w.knob and shaft 3.2, I found it.
  22. The problem is that Buwizz 2.0 cuts power if your motors are under high load, which I think is likely given your motor setup and aforementioned "not careful" driving. But I wish you the best of luck, whichever you choose.
  23. Yes, but only if you drive very carefully. The 3.0 really is the better option, you just need to use a C+ L motor to steer instead of a servo.
  24. I have used them outdoors, but I dont think I ever took any vehicles with planetary hubs in sand. It totally could be that though. I'm going to put them through the washing machine and I will update this if they get better.
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