Aurorasaurus

Is it a really complicated winch? Whats the big custom track for?

6x6 with 1BW motor per wheel and planetary hubs is guaranteed fun. Though when I built one it felt a bit slower than I'd liked. If speed is important you'll want a gearbox. Either way, I'm excited to see what you come up with next!

Honestly, its an excuse to use olive green parts. And yep, audi tires. I might mess around with putting one on the hood and one on the roof later too, if it looks good I'll send a photo

4 PF L motors for drive, 1 PF L motor for pneumatic diff locks, 1 PF servo for steering. Its fairly quick for what it is, an offroader, but I dont like it much. It also has awful approach and depart angles, I placed it on that rock. But it can climb 45 degrees no problem. If anyone wants more photos in the next day or two I will probably still have the model assembled.

I've seen a lot if your videos on youtube, and I'd agree this is one of your best. Keep up the good work!

No worries :D Some things I'd warn about with a system like this: 4 or 6 motors already provides plenty of torque. But also, using the fast output and gearing for more torque will get you a lower speed than the slow output. The internal ratio of the buggy motors is 17:23, 1:1.352. With lego gears that I assume one might use, you can get 20:28, 1:1.4, or 12:20, 1:1.66. So both times you're slower than the slow output, the torque gain is marginal and unnecessary, and the extra complexity from these gearings adds another failure point. I dont think they brace as nicely as 28:28. 20:28 certainly doesnt, and 12:20 does, but the pieces are physically too weak to deal with the power 2 motors. However, thinking like this might be wrong, If you're able, doing things is the best way to learn, IMO. So go, try push that magic pole a little further. Best of luck.

3 motors on one axle isn't something I've tried, it might work. Something to think about is that the weakest link will always break first. So for my model that was the 12t gears, until I changed them. If you're using CV or U joints with differentials, the easiest point to break will usually be the cv joints popping or slipping out of the diff. If you can combat that, then you can worry about melting stuff.

From my experience, 2 buggy motors on one axle is safe, 4 melts things. I only broke parts when I crashed, this time. The chassis is 4x4 from the slow outputs. The DBG differential that take 3 inner gears isnt really built for that much stress, I'd advise against using it if you have other options. If you scroll up a bit, I was using 12t gears earlier. Unfortunately, because I'm not using planetary hubs, the gears are handling a lot of torque. The 12t gears skipped a lot, and melted parts since skipping teeth forced the gear to places it shouldnt be. Handling has been a long term thorn in my side when using 1BW motor per fromt wheel, so figuring out a way to get the caster angle is really what really reignited the flame for this project. Thanks for the praise.

https://bricksafe.com/pages/Aurorasaurus/42077-max/v4/v4-wip# 26km/h on asphalt and astroturf, 17.1km/h on grass and dirt. I'm finally satisfied.

Well, a good two weeks have passed. The first try with the original mould didnt work at all. It was too hard to get the mould apart and the tire wasnt fully set. So I made a new mould, and let the silicone cure for longer. The new mould was much easier to take apart. The tire however, is still imperfect. The surface is ugly, and the tire weighs 105 grams. I think this will be the end of this project, for me.

Looks awesome! It reminds me of a Rimac, though I cant really say why.. In other news, I used literally every single one of my olive green liftarms... Not sure if I'll build a chassis for this, though I did make sure it was wide enough to accommodate diff locks with independent suspension, so maybe you'll see some updates on this soon. Hi-res at my bricksafe

An update on my 6 motor rally chassis: V2 chassis is what I'd call done. I fixed the front steering so there's barely any bump steer or toe in/out. I also swapped from 12t to 28t gears in the rear, so now nothing should break. https://bricksafe.com/pages/Aurorasaurus/42077-max/v4/v4-wip More photos on bricksafe, if you want to reverse engineer it or something. If I actually finish a build with this I'll make instructions for it. I did a short test, nothing broke, and it was driving about the same speed as V1. My next challenge after I test this more is building it digitally, and fitting it inside 42077. Perhaps this will be a track version, as it's lower. Or maybe I give up the whole putting too many motors in 42077 thing.

Space garbage truck? That looks pretty interesting, anyway!

Sadly I fear you're correct. The only things I'm holding out for is more parts in an actually useful color like purple or olive green, or decent tires.

I made a 7x9 frame for this, and you just use a 28t gear to drive the diff, and it's centered. It's 7x9 to fit a diff lock length-ways rather than vertically.

I can't think why not! Also, that's a pretty neat contraption :)

Well, firstly I'd like to say thanks! And now I present the latest result of my foolish obsession with making the best rally chassis I can: This one is gone now, I'm trying to get the front axle to have less resistance, as it was made like this: This lead to a lot of resistance since the angle part thing was bent a little in order for the driveshaft to go through it. The rear drivetrain was also flawed, believe it or not, 12 tooth bevel gears cant handle the full power of two BW motors! So then, the latest version I'm working on has me using 28t gears for the rear, as they've been strong enough in the past, and I came up with a narrower front end, by 2 studs.

Its big, yes. You could cut down the pieces but then it kinda defeats the point...

You can use a small pen spring and a 5.5m axle with the new extendable cv on one end, so the pen spring pushes against the extendable cv and the circular part on the 5.5m axle. This applies a bit of force to keep the axle falling out. So it's doable, at least in regards to the driveshaft.

You're a madman, and I love it. 11x15 frames inside the wheels is just ridiculous. Did your wheels ever come off?

I love it! Those custom wheels are amazing, do you know their diameter? It's good to see you back making videos, I hope it continues!

I believe those are from the CADA F1, but I may be wrong

Hello! I feel I should poke my head in here, but I dont actually have anything to add, since Jim did a great job saying everything I would have :) An example of something I'd post here, admittedly more finished than most things I work on: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Aurorasaurus/42077-max A few more images, and .lxf and .io files available on bricksafe. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XCdn9qIAc-kskz-6HoapZjxRXMcUALHg/view?usp=drivesdk Instructions available here This was a 42077 mod I made to use 4 buwizz motors. It reached 19.1 km/h, with offroad tires. But because it didnt have caster angle, and probably a few other things like the ride height, it was too unstable to drive safely. It was fast and fun, but ultimately a failure as it wouldn't go where you tried to make it go. Because of this, I decided to mark the project as a failure and not make a video.

Not sure, I think I'll try plain silicone first. If it's not strong enough then I'll try add cornflour. Casting polyurethane is interesting, I'd like to hear how that goes.

I wonder why it wasnt going up the slope