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Everything posted by Aurorasaurus
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I always like the way you present your videos, they make me smile. And my two cents about the tank thing: somewhere I heard that when the british were developing tanks, they put it under the guise of new water tanks, hence the name. But I have no source for this and would agree its probably just a story someone told me as a kid.
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If you want to build cars, I think the 42160 Audi is a good parts pack as it has good wheel hubs and differentials. As for the different electronics, C+/Powered Up motors all have built in rotation sensors and as such can be used as servos, or as regular motors, which is quite powerful. But C+ has some disadvantages, you cannot stack the motors plugs so you are limited in the amount of motors you can use. Power functions has the advantage of smaller motors and stackable plugs, but because its discontinued now PF motors are more expensive. Also, the PF servo is rare and the clone PF servos don't have proportional control. Mindstorms is a different beast, which I haven't experimented with. The official Lego options for controlling and powering your models are not very good. You can use the brickcontroller 2 app for a better way to control your models, and Buwizz is a premium option for getting more power in a smaller footprint. As for buying parts, bricklink is a good place to go for real lego parts, but if you're on a tight budget clone parts have got remarkably good recently.
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This blows me away, I'm really impressed, and can't wait to see the end result. Meanwhile, I've come up with what I consider a more desirable way to get caster angle in driven front suspension. I think it's better than what I was doing before because its simpler. And with some more work should prove to be stronger as well, as it uses mini turntables for wheel hubs. I got the idea to use mini turntables and 3d printed rims from the buwizz daytona mod. https://bricksafe.com/pages/Aurorasaurus/miscellaneous/turntable-hubs This is just a proof of concept for now, but it's exciting me. I'll probably use longer suspension arms and the slow output tomorrow night.
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https://bricksafe.com/pages/Aurorasaurus/cada-servo-internals I cant make heads or tails of it, as I know nothing about electronics, really. Hopefully someone who knows more can compare it to a real lego one, or at least photos of one. I dont quite want ro risk breaking my real lego one just yet. Sorry for not embedding photos like I usually do, I'm on writing this on my phone. Additionally, I tried the stacking some non branded fake servos on a buwizz motor plug and didnt get proportional results like I found with the cada motor.
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Well, I got the motors now. Sadly the servo doesnt seem proportional with buwizz 2.0, at least fully, but the replacement buggy motors seem pretty good. Oddly, when I connect the servo on top of a lego PF extension lead connected to a buggy motor the servo behaves as though it has proportional control, so long as the buggy motor is running. I'm using brick troller 2 app. Same thing when connected on top of a cada buggy motor. When connected under a cada buggy motor, the servo gains an extra spot at ~45°. Under a lego buggy motor it behaves fully proportionally. When connected on top of a real Lego servo, neither work proportionally, while the Lego servo normally does work proportionally. I also found the same results using the buwizz app.
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I'd think at that scale with 2x buwizz motors you could gear up the buwizz motors rather than down..
- 9 replies
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- hoonitruck
- lego
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Well, I've put a few hours on some more of them and (admittedly it was going 26km/h sometimes) the wheel hub seems to have gained more wobble, like the old two part ones. I was using extra lubrication, as well. I'm talking about the side to side wobble of the wheel attachment points relative to the rest of the hub. But that's, IMO, a huge improvement over the old hubs which would have just melted or come apart, like they did in the buwizz peugeot 9x8 mod.
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Its hardly a world record breaker lol, the buwizz team got 60km/h... As for the weight of the tires, in my hands they feel lighter than the same diameter lego ones. They're from a chinese manufacturer called "Injora" if anyone's curious, I found them at a great bargain on aliexpress. Anyway, thanks for the praise!
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Well, I finally built a bodywork I don't absolutely hate for my 26km/h car: So while I don't actively despise it, looking at it from above is not pleasant. But at this point I'm just happy to have not torn the rear suspension apart and turned it into a trophy truck. I suppose that'll be next. It doesn't need the rubber bands on the suspension, but I like the extra bounce they give it. Any thoughts, comments, suggestions, are most welcome and appreciated.
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Hmm, I could try other things in the future, but at the moment for the time and money it costs it seems just buying original lego tires is better value. As for the 3d printed mould, thats not really the issue so much as filling it consistently. The high weight comes from the walls being very thick, so It would be easier to remove the inside of the mould. The part that would be in contact with the surface is 4.6mm thick, and doesnt feel as strong as I'd like. Thicker is simply too heavy. The tire also smells like silicone, which I'm not enjoying. Your method is an awful lot of work, but it seems to be turning out better. Also, I didnt realise other people on yt were making tires the way I am, I just kinda thought about it for a bit lol. How heavy and large is that tire? Lego rim for comparison?
- 706 replies
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- wheels 3rd party
- 8110
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