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LDD/MLCad 15D The Black Pearl Project - A joint venture by Courleciel and Papacharly EDIT April 1st 2015: Black Pearl mpd-file is available now. Please also note the relevant post #15 below! End of last year I had been invited by Courleciel to join a project he already started. The goal of this project was to virtually build the Black Pearl from the Lego video game “Pirates of the Caribbean” and, in a second step, to “make great renderings”. At this time the ship had already been built by Courleciel in real bricks. Starting point for this project was an “old” lxf-file (Lego Digital Designer) by captainjack. The virtual model was significantly optimized by Courleciel so as to make it more accurate and complete. A lot of parts have been repainted, some new elements were added (such as anchors, bell, grating, cannons...), and some were adjusted or rebuilt (like the capstan, figurehead, lanterns, masts...). After the model was nearly completed, the LDD file was converted to the LDraw format and my job started. According to Courleciels conceptual work I added rigging, rails, ropes and strings by using SR3D Builder and MLCad/LSynth. Sails were directly created in povray. Additionally it was necessary to manipulate some original LDraw parts (e.g. # x1609 batarang, see stern) to make them authentic with regard to the video game. Finally we decided on all setups for being rendered. All renders have status “as rendered”. There was no “photoshopping” applied, aside from scaling down and anti-aliasing. I have not counted all the hours I spent working on this project. But doing all the work Courleciel and me had a lot of fun. So we hope that you also will enjoy our work and have some fun too. High resolution “technical renders” showing the conceptual work of Courleciel can be found here. For high resolution images of the movie scenes click here. And here is the outcome of our project:: First we have some technical renders of the Black Pearl. Then we show some movie scene remakes. For all those which are not familiar with “Pirates of the Carribean”, please find the original movie scene respectively an original video game screenshot below each rendering. Here comes a remake of a video game screenshot: Two movie scenes from part 1 "The Curse of the Black Pearl": Movie scene “Pantano River” from part 2 "Dead Man’s Chest" Two movie scenes “Locker” from part 3 "At World’s End" Last but not least we have an atmospheric and maybe kitschy sunset render which is not related to any movie scene.
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I love the aircraft builds of Jon Hall, as well as I highly appreciate that he shares instructions. So I am able to virtually rebuild his aircraft and use it for rendering. Many thanks to Jon! Here please find some LDraw files of his aircraft models: E-11 Liberator Crimson Storm Skyhammer Patriot Scarlet Fury E-73 Wyvern In this context I proudly present my latest render: A group of E-11 Liberator getting attacked by some Crimson Storm. Please note: This is not a real air fight. It’s an airshow! So definitely no Lego Minifig was harmed or even killed while being engaged in this “air combat”. Pov-Ray render. Props, muzzle flash and smoke, as well as sky and fog also generated with Pov-Ray (no “photoshoping”). Aircraft built with SR3D Builder. High Resolution Image of "Great shot, Blondie!" Have fun! Papacharly -
Hello! My first Lego mech. Light construction adapted to work in M-Tron complexes. Easy to configure - there is a possibility to quick change kind of arms. There is a number and type of machine on left arm - LM63 - Light Mech, number 63. I had a lot of issues during rendering, flex element was invisible after render, so I decided to remove that element and use other solution. I hope you enjoy it :) M-Tron Light Mech by Ryszard Bosiak, on Flickr M-Tron Light Mech by Ryszard Bosiak, on Flickr M-Tron Light Mech by Ryszard Bosiak, on Flickr M-Tron Light Mech by Ryszard Bosiak, on Flickr M-Tron Light Mech by Ryszard Bosiak, on Flickr M-Tron Light Mech by Ryszard Bosiak, on Flickr M-Tron Light Mech by Ryszard Bosiak, on Flickr M-Tron Light Mech by Ryszard Bosiak, on Flickr M-Tron Light Mech by Ryszard Bosiak, on Flickr M-Tron Light Mech by Ryszard Bosiak, on Flickr
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Hello! Do you remember Rock Raiders series? In my opinion that theme had a big potential. This time I'm glad to present you my variation of Rock Raiders crew's mining mech. That mech is bigger than last one. Needs more power and weight to mine all important minerals. Rock Raiders Mining Mech by Ryszard Bosiak, on Flickr Rock Raiders Mining Mech by Ryszard Bosiak, on Flickr Rock Raiders Mining Mech by Ryszard Bosiak, on Flickr Rock Raiders Mining Mech by Ryszard Bosiak, on Flickr Rock Raiders Mining Mech by Ryszard Bosiak, on Flickr Rock Raiders Mining Mech by Ryszard Bosiak, on Flickr Rock Raiders Mining Mech by Ryszard Bosiak, on Flickr Rock Raiders Mining Mech by Ryszard Bosiak, on Flickr Rock Raiders Mining Mech by Ryszard Bosiak, on Flickr Rock Raiders Mining Mech by Ryszard Bosiak, on Flickr
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This is a former project of mine, which I wanted to do irl, but found the design very fragile. It's a cruiser from the video game 'Imperium Galactica'. I used Bluerender to render the LDD file, which is also attached. I hope you like it. imperium_galactica_ship.lxf
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wassup guys I have build some 'nice' locos on LDD last days that i want to show you! as you can see at the picture the trains are based of the ALCO PA. my favorite diesel locomotive and one of the most iconic in history. Fans deemed the PA one of the most beautiful diesels and an "Honorary Steam Locomotive,Even the late, noted train artist Howard Fogg, a big steam aficionado, once called the PA "a nice looking locomotive". What else needs to be said? ALCO PA SQUAD gonna post it soon on eurobricks! by therizingrize, on Flickr as you can see on the pictures (finally the BB codes are working) i have build 3 locos, Delaware and Hudson, Santa Fe and Union pacific. a few months ago i build an Santa Fe in real bricks but it turned out very bad so i decided that i would build one in LDD to see if I was really my terrible building. but luckily it was the lack of bricks . ALCO SQUAD 2 by therizingrize, on Flickr I didn't make a picture of the Union Pacific but i have a picture of all! ALCO SQUAD 5 by therizingrize, on Flickr Santa Fe ALCO SQUAD 3 by therizingrize, on Flickr Delaware and Hudson and the Album link is also here! https://www.flickr.c...5528@N04/5813CJ One problem is that the bogies are shorter in scale that shortened the model so it's looking higher. When i buy the models I assume i would build my own brick build bogies that are powered by LEGO M motors or some.
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Hello all! While 75915 is an excellent set, the helicopter is not quite accurate enough for me. I then set about creating an accurate version in LDD. I used msx80's wonderful program Bluerender to create the image. Movie Accurate JW Helicopter I hope to Bricklink the parts to build this for real someday. It seats three, two in the cockpit and one in the gunner's seat. I hope you enjoyed my simple LDD MOC. Comments and criticism welcome!
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Found a fun way to make huge lego classic simcity style rendering image. All we have to do is render every modules with same light and iso camera setting without background. Each module have to be render 4 times for 4 directions (N/S/W/E). Than just combine things together using image software. vean 's lxf 10246-1 - iso view render test (4k) by Nachapon S., on Flickr lego iso view render test by Nachapon S., on Flickr Modular Buildings lxf source 10182 - Cafe Corner - by Vee - 10185 - Green Grocer - by Man with a hat - 10190 - Market Street - by Johnnhiszippy3 - 10197 - Fire Brigade - by Man with a hat - 10211 - Grand Emporium - by Johnnhiszippy3 - 10218 - Pet Shop - by P4trickvH - 10224 - Town Hall - by Sjuip - 10232 - Palace Cinema - by Stephan - 10243 Parisian Restaurant by kcoon -
Hi, If you have blue & red 3D glasses, have a look to this fabulous model. This is a cuusoo model of Cornwaille. If you like, support it! His Tie Bomber is also great... If some are interested, I could write a note concerning the stereo renders.
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Lately, there have been surfacing some great mini models here. Please take your time to accept my micro (not just mini!) models here as well. Because finally, after half a year of sweating, I can proudly present these micro ships to you . I've been wanting to make these guys ever since my A-wing, to expand my lines of micro SW ships. But it didn"t proove to be easy. [MOC] micro B-wing & Y-wing by Bert.VR, on Flickr I had already built a Y-wing with 5 pieces, but didn't consider that as what I really wanted . So I sat down again to play with all kinds of pieces. The idea of using Technic axles for the columns was what sparked the Y-wing. It also offered a chance to use my favorite part, the wrench. It may look a bit skinny, but at least a sence of greebling is there. The hardest part was the head of the fighter. I really wanted that sloping form, and it had to be thicker than the body (that wonderful SNOT brick). I came up with the frogman's foot inserted in a claw piece. And tada, a 15 part Y-wing is born (16 parts if you would like to add a minifig hand on top to simulate a cannon)! In my opinion, it's much better than the version from the advent calendar... [MOC] micro B-wing & Y-wing by Bert.VR, on Flickr A B-wing had never been featured in the advent calendar (the scale I aim for), and pretty soon I discovered why. To make it look good in this scale, it has to be as thin as a single plate, and studs would completely ruin the model . So I was left with all those specialty pieces. I scrolled through the whole part inventory of LDD multiple times, only to find nothing. The B-wing remained unbuilt for several months. Do you know that feeling when after a very long time, you finally find what you are looking for? Well, imagine the feeling I experienced when, completely out of the blue, I stumbled across THE piece for my B-wing . Recognized it already? The piece that makes the central wing of the B-wing is... It had everything (apart from not being produced in grey) to make my B-wing look good. Some claw pieces, and my favorite wrench part soon snapped into place. The wings were a bit tricky, but I'm satisfied with the minifig neck pieces. The hole in it can be assumed to be that logo on the wings. They're not foldable, but can be swapped out easily with normal 1x1 plates to go to landing mode. The B-wing is my smallest model yet, with only 8 (!) pieces . I hope you can enjoy it nonetheless. It's not buildable in real life, unless you want to paint a Buzz wing. The Y-wing is buildable (hurray!), if you go with regular yellow instead of cool yellow, and pick the technic axles in dark grey. so in fact, you could put it next to my x-wing, or any other micro's you might have. [MOC] micro B-wing & Y-wing - exploded by Bert.VR, on Flickr I hope you like it. Comments are always welcome, as well as suggestions for further micro's. Because Size matters not. Judge me by my size, do you ?
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Hi, Here is another MOD of this faboulous model (#60053): LLD file will be shared when brickshelf.com will be operational. Just have a look on this stereo render (if you have 3D glasses of course) If some are interested, I could then write a note to realize this kind of pics.
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Hello!! After seeing the Technic Set 41999 in which I found aesthetically very beautiful, I decided to make a replica of it in minifig scale :) is actually a Dodge Charger 1970 with big wheels :) I will build the same physically, there are these renderings This MOC its also on Cuusoo http://lego.cuusoo.com/ideas/view/51928 Full resolutions http://www.flickr.co...in/photostream/ http://www.flickr.co...in/photostream/
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Another charming digital creation- this time high-res renders of all the current and upcoming Iron Men from TLG, based off official figures. For fans, the shot on Flickr is suitable for an HD desktop, and an Iron Patriot one is forthcoming. As always, comments and criticism are more than welcome!
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Based on a reallife building in my hometown. Actually the outcome has almost no similarity with it.. Made with LDD and LDDtoPOVray.
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Presenting a Dutch version of my DSB Litra MK - thanks to UrbanErwin for giving me this idea NedTrain Vossloh G 400 B My model: Scale: 1:45 Length: 27 studs Width: 8 studs Bricks: 640 Locomotion: 1 x M-motor (PF) Gear ratio: 1:1 Power: 1 x 9v battery with 1 x PF custom adapter Control: SBrick Designed: 2020 (Slightly) updated: 2023 Very high setting render from Stud.io with custom decals done in the PartDesigner tool. Left: Central coupling arm on without any wagons. Right: Central coupling arm replaced with a coupling magnet when pulling or pusing wagons. Interior with placement of the SBrick, M-motor and 9v battery: On a tableau at exhibitions: The railing can only be made in Dark Green using BlueBrixx parts for now. Change all Dark Green to Dark Turquoise and the railing can be made using genuine LEGO parts.
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Okay, I know this has been brought up before, but I've tried LDraw, Bluerender, Pov-Ray, Blender, and none of them work on my mac. Any advice?
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Hello, Eurobricks Technic, Mindstorms and Model Team! I have been without internet for some time, and just logged into Eurobricks again. I cannot embed an image, so here is the image location on postimage org: I am Kieran Chamberlain, and I present to you a rendering of a Harley Davidson custom designed using LDD that I will be building soon. It is my first LDD to POVRAY rendering, and uses the default render settings. The tyres in the render are for representation only, the real model will have tyres synthesized from pnuematic tubing, etc. 98% complete, It comprises a heady 3000+ parts at 65cm length, with the following functional features: -45 degree single cam V-twin engine with two pushrod operated valves per cylinder -Front and rear brakes with hand and foot controls -Springer front suspension -Foot gearshifter with nuetral and first gear -9v motor in gearbox, battery pack disguised as oil tank -Steering Enjoy! -
Hello any renderers, I know I could probably do this myself but even after reading countless tutorials and trying to download the right software I just can't do it. I have an Ideas project that I'd really like rendered because the transparent pieces look awful with LDD's screenshots example: Sorry if it's any trouble but it'd really be a big help if someone could render my project. If you are interested, that's awesome and I'll send you the lxf! -
An occasionally updated thread, where I post pictures of various Space settings and locations. With lots of lighting. Lots. Oh, and the guy in the suit is a Neotron astronaut. Just for reference. *WICP - Work In Continual Progress.
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Mini TrialTruck Big step deciding to show you my w.i.p, my two small sons have been helping out currently trying to keep it down to 200 parts and less studful...(its over by a couple of pieces, including the minifigs) Got to throw some minifigs in there too... Features: Pendular rear suspension in two axes... Forward/back, left/right Progressive steering on the front two axles, front wheels steer more than the next set behind. HOG steering in the tailpipe, flip open front. All done from my 'spares' box - for some reason I do not have any right-angled connector elements in Black... not even in current models We'll see how this evolves and whether it will enter the competition or not (my sons want it to) but I know It ain't gonna win prizes but that is not the point in entering.... LXF file here -> TrialTruck_v3.2.lxf Please use, improve....and most importantly share, I want to see 20 variations of these in the competition -
You may have encountered it: you built a nice model in LDD, but it looks surreal because it lacks decorations on e.g. the minifigs. This tutorial is here to help you with that. In this little tutorial, I will try to explain how you can enhance the POV-Ray renders of your LDD models with custom decorations. You can design entirely new figures for example, or you can apply the decorations that aren’t available in LDD. My example in this tutorial will be a stormtrooper minifig. This figure lacks all decoration in LDD, and is commonly used in digital Star Wars builds. It gives me the opportunity to explain how to decorate surfaces that aren’t directly accessible in LDD, how to fit custom decals and explain the general principles. This method doesn’t involve any hacking and doesn’t require any sick programming skills (although the custom decorations might need your artistic talents…). And the best of all: all programs I use here are entirely free! I’ll be using Lego Digital Designer, LDD2POV-Ray, POV-Ray and Inkscape. So let’s get started! Decorate the target pieces in LDD LDD2POV-Ray, the program that will eventually place your custom decorations, can only replace already applied decorations. So firstly, you need to give the pieces you want to decorate a replacement decoration in LDD. Make sure to use different decorations for each surface, so that you later can keep track of which filler to replace with which substitute. Also, taking a screenshot for reference is not a bad idea to support your memory. But wait a minute… Some parts don’t allow for any decorations at all in LDD! Minifig torso’s are not a problem at all, but things like helmets are a whole different story. But luckily, there is an easy way to apply decorations that will work in most cases (no guarantees though!). You have to export your .lxf file to the LXFML format (File -> Export Model). This .lxfml file is actually a textual representation of your model. Among others, it contains a list with the placed parts, including their color(s) and decoration(s). To find your part, use the search function (Ctrl + F / Cmd + F) and type in: in which you replace 30408 (the designID of the storm trooper helmet in this example) with the designID of the part you desperately want to decorate. You can find this ID by clicking on the part in LDD and looking at the bottom left corner. If multiple of these parts are available, you can give the specific part a different color and check for the one that says materials=”26” in which you replace 26 with the number of the color you used (you can find this number by hovering over the color in the color menu in LDD). The key part is then to change the part that says decorations=”0,0,0” in which the amount of zeros dictates the amount of surfaces that you can decorate. If the line isn’t present at all, you’re out of luck and won’t be able to decorate your part. Otherwise, replace the zeros with valid decoration ID’s. It’s best to take decorations that are square and detailed (I will explain why later), so I suggest using the decorations of the 2x2 flat tiles. You can find these ID’s by placing some of these decorated tiles in your model, and check in the LXFML file what number is filled in in the decorations line of those parts. To make it easier for you, here are some handy decoration ID’s you can use: 73023, 63708, 99825, 55350, 63404, 601245 Then, save your file, and open it with LDD. You’ll see your parts are looking very ugly with those random decorations, but you’ll be happy to have decorations. You can copy these parts to a ‘normal’ .lxf file, and get rid of the parts you used to find the decoration numbers. Now we can move on to step 2! 2. Open your model with LDD2POV-Ray LDD2POV-Ray is a program that converts your LDD model into a file that can be rendered with POV-Ray, a ray tracer that simulates the behaviour of real light to simulate a realistic effect. You can set lighting etc, but more importantly, you can set your own decorations. To do this, go to the “Decorations” tab, and check the box “Use custom decorations”. A list will appear at the bottom, showing all the decorations you used. Clicking on them will reveal a thumbnail. Now you’ll be happy that you used different decorations to know which is which. You’ll notice that the decorations (unless they are square) are a bit stretched out. That’s because the program only accepts square decorations. So to load your own decorations, you’ll have to make sure they are square. Otherwise, they won’t cover the whole area you intended. If you already have your decorations (you found them on one of the indexes of the customisation forum here, for example), you can skip to step 4. Otherwise, I’ll give a brief account on how to make your own decorations in step 3. 3. Create your own decorations Personally, I make my decorations with Inkscape. It’s an easy to use vector based program. That means you can easily create very clean, smooth and crisp shapes. I’ll leave it to others to educate you in this nice software, but I’ll show you some general strategies to make accurate decorations. When working on complex curved shapes, like the storm trooper helmet, you won’t know for certain how your image will be mapped to the surface. That’s when the screenshot you took comes in handily. Because you have used decorations with a lot of detail (if you’ve been following properly!), you can easily see how the image is deformed and placed on the surface. You can identify the regions where you want your details to come, look to what part of the placed decoration it corresponds, see what it looks like in its flat state (you can see this in the thumbnail in LDD2POV-Ray), and place your detail in the according place. So in the example of the storm trooper helmet, you can see that the mouth should somewhere at the center of the graph. LDD2POV-Ray shows that that graph is a bit above the, so now you know you have to place the mouth around the center of your decal. When you’ve finished your decoration, you have to make sure your decoration is square. This will most certainly occur when you’re designing decorations for minifig torsos. If you leave it in its actual proportions and plug it in LDD2POV-Ray, you’ll see that the image doesn’t fill the whole area, compared to the stretched out decoration you have to replace. So you resize your decoration. In Inkscape, simply go to the top, where you can enter dimensions. Then you go to File -> Export Bitmap and a dialogue box will pop up. Make sure to select ‘from selection’, and that the amount of pixels of your image is high enough. Otherwise it will look pixelated in the render. Finally, chose .png as file format, and remove the background color of your decoration. Because it might look like the right color in Inkscape, but in your render it will look like the decal has a different color than the body, which isn’t what you wanted. So now you have your parts temporarily decorated, and you got your custom decorations ready. So time to replace them and render them. 4. Render your decorated model Firstly, you have to load your new decorations in LDD2POV-Ray. There are multiple ways to do this, but the easiest method is to select the decoration you want to replace and then click on the empty canvas. A window will pop up to allow you to select your decoration. Just select it. Repeat for the other decorations, making sure you replace the right decoration with the right replacement (that screenshot will come in handy now, especially since you can’t have both LDD and LDD2POV-Ray open at the same time at this moment!). Then you can fiddle around with different settings like lighting etc. For test renders I suggest to place in the first tab the slider on the lowest positions: ‘LDD geometry’. This will result in slightly less good, but much faster renders, allowing you to quickly get feedback about your decorations, so that you can adjust placement and proportions. For flat parts this won’t be necessary, but it can help for curved parts. That’s why I included the TIE pilot in the render. You can see the ensignas are slightly deformed. That’s not my intention, but I already predeformed the circles in the decal, so that it looks more or less round on the surface. You’ll have to experiment a lot with these ones. Anyway, when you're satisfied and feel the need for a more glamorous render, you can turn 'render with visible bevels' on in the slider bar, and wait for some time. You'll get something like this. Hopefully now you know all about rendering your custom minifigs, making your models more realistic. I hope to see some around! Anyway: happy rendering of your minifigs! If anyone is interested in downloading the decorations I designed for the stormtrooper (for now without back printing) and the TIE pilot (torso printing already present in LDD), have a look at this page. Hope you've found this useful.
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Sledgeshot by yigitkoroglu by The Mugbearer, on Flickr Sledgeshot is an all-terrain scouting vehicle with ability to transform it's front legs into sleds for better speed in snowy regions where this machine is used the most. The original design belongs to yigitkoroglu from DeviantArt and I post this model with his permission and his logo built with bricks. You can find Sledgeshot's concept art here: http://yigitkoroglu....eshot-404878544 Don't forget to pay him a visit and check out his works for if it wasn't him, I wasn't able to construct this model. He gave me a great deal of inspiration.
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I've been lurking here for a while but have never been satisfied with any of my MOCs enough to post them here. The nearest I came was an MLRS that worked well but looked rubbish :P Anyway, I'm in the process of designing a Grave Digger monster truck replica (approx 1:15 ish scale). Features: - 4 wheel drive - 4 wheel steering - Steering modes: 2-wheel, 4-wheel, crab - 4-link, very long travel suspension - Suspension travel is also to scale. Almost. - All motors contained in the chassis (no servo-on-axle affairs) - SBrick control - Tyres from a Tamiya Lunchbox I'm designing this in Sketchup and rendering with the Twilight Render (free) plugin. Note that I've drawn all the pieces myself, and they're all drawn to have a low polygon count so that my machine doesn't croak to a halt. Some of the pieces aren't very accurate atm (e.g. the XL motors). So far, I think I've got the chassis designed: And here's a couple of closeups: Issues I can foresee so far: - Friction from so many knob wheels - Bump steer (but I don't want to sacrifice suspension travel by putting the servo on the axle) - Not sure whether having the steering upside down like that will have any negative effects. - Not sure if I can get all of the parts in green that I want Can anyone see any other potential issues with this design (before I start putting in BL orders)? Thanks
