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Found 428 results

  1. Hi guys, I currently have a small city/train layout. It is currently getting to small for my trains and modulars. (if you are interested you can find it here: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=554588). This made me think over a redesign of the layout where I have more space for the trains and the modulars, and where I have more "track-space" to move the trains on the layout (with the current design I can move 4 trains independently on the layout). I have now to describe what you can see in the image above: First you see the whole visible track of the layout. You can also see that it consist of three levels: gray baseplates = level 0 green baseplates = level 1 (20cm above level 0) tan baseplates = level 2 (only streets and houses, 20cm above level 1) All blue baseplates are placeholders for modular houses. You can also see, that this layout only works with modified points. The tracks on the red baseplates are the ramp where the train can go from level 0 to level 1. In the picture above you can also find the dimensions of the layout. In the pictures below, you can find the track layout of each single level (for reference the track ramp is shown in all thee pictures): Level 0: Level 1: Level 2: Now my Questions are: What do you think in general of my layout? What would you change/ what didn't you like? Do you think the given ramp is doable with PF-Trains (height difference = 20cm) BR, Guenther
  2. Another one fictional loco. Retrofuturistic locomotive by Sunder_59, on Flickr
  3. This is the "historic version" of my previous moc:
  4. I went to look at the selection of Lego trains recently, and I noticed the heavy haul train is a similar remake to the cargo train, and I noticed the passenger train appears to be a remake of the 2007 one. What is going on?
  5. Dear all, I'm selling the Red cargo train (3677) + Switches. Everything is in super condition and the train is complete (including the minifigures). Only the original box is missing. If you are interested, please drop me a note. Regards, Hans Odenthal
  6. Hello everyone, for those who do not know me, I'm a big fan of trains and especially Lego Train. I finally have a space to create a Layout finally worthy of the name. My approach comes a little more of the model in the sense that I like to see a train pass over another, to automate the network, make realistic through light signals, station stops, etc. ... I started this project in February 2016 in my basement where I made by myself, furniture and shelf for storing SET Lego but also to design the layout. I was already well advanced when an incident occurred: the flooding of the basement end in May 2016 .... Then in August, the discovery of a leak in the water supply of the house forced me to completely dismantle this first try of a Layout to access the water inlet pipe ..... I come back now in force therefore with a first experience, many tests on the possibility for our pretty trains to climb slopes (straight or curved) to optimize the best of my available space and create a nice layout ! ;-) Due to financial limits, this layout will be not made with 100% of Lego, I will use wood and homemade stickers, custom electronic to make it. Here are the first shots (or I should say the nth plan because with Bluebrick, we never stop to change those plans) to my future Layout (so different from the first that I had designed and unfinished) WMLTL - v5 - Level 0 by LegoLow, sur Flickr Corresponds to trainyard + walkway + a brief passage of the 12V track WMLTL - v5 - Level 1 by LegoLow, sur Flickr Ground level with his future main station WMLTL - v5 - Level 2 by LegoLow, sur Flickr First level of the "mountain" : secondary station and then, possibility to climb in the mountain or to go back to the main level WMLTL - v5 - Level 3 by LegoLow, sur Flickr WMLTL - v5 - Level 4 by LegoLow, sur Flickr WMLTL - v5 - Level 5 by LegoLow, sur Flickr Top of the mountain.... Finally a view (done quickly, I will improving later), global superimposed, giving the idea of what will be hidden, visible .... WMLTL Project - v5 by LegoLow, sur Flickr Following probably next week with the start of the implementation of Level 0. It's a big challenge for me because this project is made of mixing differents things : LEGO, electronics, electricity problematics, Priority management on a network, etc.... Hope you will find that interesting to !
  7. My seventh alternate of Lance's Mecha Horse 70312. The train features working pushrods, detachable car, can fit all three minifigures and has enough storage space for all their weapons. Tutorial available here
  8. I just need some tips to build a steam loco. what parts would look good? also, would a single axle front truck, unflanged driver unflanged driver flanged driver unflanged driver config work?
  9. I am just curious, how long does blokbricks take to ship to the us? Are they any good? I've been thinking about the class 99.
  10. This model was originally a ALCO MRS-1 built by Anthony Sava, but has been so severely modified that it no longer looks like the prototype loco. So I went searching And found another ALCO locomotive, a RSD-12 that looks like my loco. Both my model and the prototype have the six wheels, and the same basic hood and cab design, plus the curved ends match the RSD-12 better than the sharp-ended MRS-1. ..and here is my Lego model of it, as Brick Railway Systems loco number 7924. I even thought about putting two of this part under the headlights at both ends, but I think the model looks better the way it is now. NOTE: The printed letter tiles with the railroad's initials "BRS" will go on the long hood. I misplaced the two letter "R" tiles, and need to order some more, but the rest of the letters are on my desk. (They are hard to keep from rotating without the middle letters to hold the others in place, so they are not on the model yet.) The center axles on these six-wheel bogies slide left and right to allow for tight turns on switches and flex-track. I took Anthony Sava's original design and beefed it up, making it a lot stronger and a little taller. Here is the picture (not mine) I found that matched my model. I also believe this is the last ALCO RSD-12 left. (I could be wrong, though.) The photo is originally from here. Here is the LDD file for the diesel loco as shown above. Comments, Questions, Suggestions, and Complaints are always welcome!
  11. Well, here it is! My first train MOC that I've ever made, the Orient Express! Including a large Pacific class style locomotive similar to the Emerald Night, a tender, and a passenger car, I cobbled this together from several Bricklink orders and the LEGO Constitution Train Chase. ( I was very sad to take it apart, but it was for the greater good!) The passenger coach features opening doors, and I was able to put two lights into the roof, so it can light up at night! Here's the official story on this MOC: -Oh no! There's a Mummy on the Orient Express! Join dashing, adventurous Arthur Rutledge as he travels across Europe with several priceless artifacts to be delivered to the Louvre Museum in Paris. But be careful, his evil nemesis Cad Goldwater is also aboard, and will stop at nothing to acquire the relics. Will Rutledge be successful, or will the Orient Express be stopped by the nefarious plans of Cad? It's up to you! You can also see more photos of this MOC on the Orient Express Thriller page on Flickr: This project is also on LEGO Ideas to support! We would really appreciate the support! Thank you. :) A couple extra pictures!
  12. Hi, i was looking for the set in the lego online shop in Italy but it can't be found. Is it being retired?
  13. This tube stock model is based on the 1996 stock that currently runs on the Jubilee and Northern lines. My goal was to keep them 6- wide, and worked to fit the proportions that came from that. As a result, the model uses small tram wheels, which introduces an obvious problem if i wish to motorize it. If anyone has any suggestions on how to do so i'm happy to hear them! The model roof isn't high enough to fit minifigures inside unfortunately, but removing their legs and clipping them to the inside can produce a nice effect. I'll possibly post some more photos in the near future, as well as a showcase video on my youtube channel.
  14. In a previous thread, I proposed a collaborative Nostalgia Train Layout for this Summer's Brickworld Chicago: This is a new thread is to determine participation so this is your chance to sign up :-) We hope that this collaboration will attract many participants by recreating the nostalgic look and feel of the older train layouts featured in Lego catalogs and the train idea book. Unfortunately Brickworld won't permit us enough floorspace to do the large "L E G O" layout I first proposed. Therefor we are moving forward with the alternative shown here: a moderately sized "50" nostalgia layout to celebrate 50 Years of Lego Trains! Here is a description: - The overall size is 16'x13' - Only official Lego sets will be featured: track, trains, stations and other sets. We have limited space so priority will be given to train specific sets first, then to general town sets as needed. Upgrades and part substitutions are fine as long as the trains still look original (for example replacing 12v traction tires, re-gearing an Emerald Night, etc). - This is a floor layout. The green and tan areas are created with colored roll paper taped to the floor. Tracks will be laid down over the colored paper. - Scenery will consist of loose trees, vehicles and figures placed on the paper between the sets (just like in the catalog pictures :-) Open areas will remain so people can step around for access. - Security will be addressed by having special stanchions up all show days (not just the weekend public days). These stanchions will feature a additional lower horizontal pipe to prevent young ones from entering the layout area. There should be about 30" between the stanchions and the outermost tracks. - Once we know what everyone is bringing, we will develop an operating schedule with hours when who's trains will run. The signup sheet is here: Please list what you can bring and then Please signup by May 15.
  15. The last years, we have used a NXT brick for controlling the train. For Lego World 2017, we want to use EV3 bricks only. Since the RFID sensor is not supported anymore, we needed another way to determine the train location. I have build a proof of concept of a loco: Wheels are directly connected to a EV3 medium motor Location detection based on a color sensor (the combination of yellow, red and green makes a unique pattern) And it works fine! A video of this proof of concept: Of course, the train needs a bit (... ) of restyling ;-) Enjoy, Hans
  16. This was an experiment of automation of a tramway line with an old LEGO RCX brick: All sensors and cables are 100% LEGO. There are 8 light sensor, 4 (two couples, one couple for station and one for switch zone) on input 1 and 4 on input 2. 3 output, output A (station 1 - switch), output B (station 2 - switch) and output C (switch zone). Everything is handled by NQC program
  17. Hello Guys! I am trying to find grease in America that would be safe to use on Lego 12v motors (from the 80s) without paying horrendous prices. I am wondering if anyone has found suitable grease in the U.S. I have had a few people tell e about ROCO 10905 but that would be $20 to have it shipped over here from Europe. Thanks -RailCo
  18. Hi I present you my latest solution for opening train doors The mechanism is operated by a gear and the current setup is suited for 8 wide trains. However, this can be applied to 7 wide too and im working on a solution to place the operating gear on top.
  19. IF THIS IS THE WRONG THEME PLS MOVE IT TO TOWN Hello AFOLs! I´m new to Lego Trains... I mean, i already had a few Train sets (7898,10194,7897) but I never built Train Moc´s or challenging Layouts. But i think this would be a cool Hobby. So i´ll build my own Layout, some Trains and a City. To build: 2 Trains with a few wagons. I thought about a cargotrain (like minecars) and a passengertransport. Buildings: Mine, Tenements, Rail Station and maybe some other Things if I get some more Ideas Layout: Actually i dont have a layout yet. But a idea. I have 68 of those: 37 of those: 1 of this: and 6 of those: I will Need some help at my layout. I dont have that much space but i would like to make a long track. I saw some Layouts, which had 2 Levels. I want do it aswell but which slope may it have? Thanks for Reading!
  20. "The Crash at Crater Canyon (part 1)" is a thrilling two-part episode of the 1950s / 60s TV series Woody's Roundup. In this episode, Jessie the yodeling cow-girl is knocked out by Prospector Stinky Pete, as she had discovered Pete's plans for Sheriff Woody and the town he protects via the mine tunnels under the town filled with dynamite and nitroglycerin, set to blow up high noon the next day to destroy the town in a giant sinkhole. Jessie is then placed unconscious on a steam loco which is uncoupled from it's train and sent hurtling uncontrollably through the wilderness to Crater Canyon, where it will meet the Cannonball passenger train on the bridge. (Thus destroying the only fast way to town and keeping Jessie out of the way for the town to explode with Woody saving Jessie and not in town to stop Pete's plan.) Naturally, Woody rides out on his horse (Bullseye) to save Jessie,who has at this point woken up and discovered the throttle lever missing and steam loco's brakes disconnected. This episode ends with this scene above: Jessie reaching for Bullseye and Woody while both trains are barreling towards each other and certain destruction, while the timer on the clock in town square ticks ever closer to noon. What happens in the next episode will never be known, as the show was pulled from the airways as the film office where the future episodes and unfinished scripts were kept burned to the ground, destroying all the un-aired episodes. It is assumed, though, that Woody rescues Jessie, stops the town from exploding, and jails Pete all before the credits roll. The real scene takes place on my Eads bridge with engines 2 and 3, plus the passenger train for the latter loco. The yellow steamer is not even finished: the side not shown is missing one wheel and moving piston and was carefully staged to hide this fact! The story behind the picture is 100% fake, as the Woody's Roundup only exists in Disney / Pixar "Toy Story" films. (specifically the second one) I tried using every to make the story sound believable for that era of TV it was set in, such at the middle 1950's to early 60s when Howdy Doody and Westerns in general were very popular. What do you guys think?
  21. Howdy! This is an update of a post I made earlier this year of a Durango & Silverton K-36 narrow gauge locomotive. I recently decided to submit this MOC to the Lego Ideas website as an effort to get Lego to produce more quality train sets. I shared my project with the good people at the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, and I have been blessed to receive their full support and endorsement of my efforts. I consider the D&SNGR to be the finest railroad experience in the country, if not the world. If you haven't had the good fortune to ride with them, do yourself a favor and make plans to go as soon as possible. You will not be disappointed. Check out their Facebook page for information about the railroad and a look at their endorsement of this MOC. If you are passionate about Lego trains, as I am, please visit the Lego Ideas website and show your support for this MOC. Help me convince Lego to make this dream a reality and immortalize the great D&SNGR with the world's greatest toy! Back to the MOC. Let's start with the engine. I am not a fan of Lego Digital Designer, so all of my MOCs are built through a trial and error evolutionary process. This is the first picture I stopped to take of the locomotive. By this point, I had nailed down the frame, wheels, and the driving mechanism. I opted for including all the power functions elements in the locomotive rather than the tender. Working on hiding the power functions. Taking shape Experimenting with the stack and the headlight. Finalizing front end. On to the cab. Getting close. Power functions access from the top. The motor makes a nice firebox. A glimpse of how the wheels are powered. Done! Now for a look at the evolution of the passenger car. Finally settling on the SNOT technique for duplicating the look of wood panels and windows with depth. Placing a horizontal stripe in the middle of vertically striped plates was a fun challenge. I eventually found a way to suspend the upper non window portions from the ceiling. I really enjoyed building this car. All done! I didn't really take any pictures of the caboose process. I essentially used the same techniques from the passenger car. The inside is pretty ugly though, as I only had so many pieces available in this color of red. Now for a few shots of the train all together! How about a little scenery? From the good folks at the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad! I took the train to Brickfair in Birmingham, Alabama, and it won staff favorite! Kids loved the bear in the cave. Brickfair is a blast. I highly recommend it to anyone interested in Lego or anyone with kids.
  22. I finally took the plunge and bought my first PF train set. And I'm not ashamed to say I'm now addicted to making train things in LDD and Here's my first completed train car. A passenger car to match the colors of the Cargo Train set engine. As always (well most of the time), the build guide is available at
  23. I just unboxed by first SBrick this weekend and this note provides a review of my experience thus far. First let me start with the background. I was fascinated by the development and release of the SBrick last year. It looked REALLY great, but I thought to myself, "while I'd love bluetooth controller, it looks great, but I don't think I could justify $60+ to replace IR if I only need one output." Of course there are a lot of people on this forum building their own homebrew bluetooth receivers, while they look incredible, these self-build receivers are way beyond the reach of my time resources right now. Yet, from long before the SBrick came out, I have been struggling with power issues in my two long passenger trains. The first train is my Superliner train with 7x 52 stud long cars, a dummy F40 and a powered F40 with a pair of PF train motors. The second train is my North Cost Limited with 8x 42 stud long cars, and an A-B-A set of locomotives (one powered with 2 PF train motors, the other two dummies). Examples of both trains taking standard lego curves can be found in this thread about a now aborted project to build wide radius curves. I made a 90° R88 right before ME announced their Kickstarter (man, that would have saved me a lot of time if I had known it was coming, but I'm still a happy man for the ME curves). Both trains predate the ME curves and I now have R88 and R105 curves (which both trains love and can take at full speed), both my permanent layout and my club's layout are both 9v, so I also want to be able to operate with the legacy R44 curves. I have had no power problems with the IR receiver powering a pair of XL motors and pulling VERY HEAVY trains (50+ cars in some cases), however, the combination of the train motors and these too heavy passenger trains taking multiple curves is just too much for the IR receiver. The original IR receiver can handle one 90° R44 curve without complaints for either train. Sometimes my club layout is large enough that I can use the full consist, but other times I have to set cars out if the straightaways are not long enough. As soon as the train is long enough to be in two curves the drag overpowers the IR receiver and it trips out for a few seconds... only to come back abruptly at full power and pull the magnets apart (in spite of the additional rare earth magnets). [Of course at this point in the review it is premature of me to say that it was the IR receiver that was tripping out, it could have also been the battery or the motors... but based on what I've found with the SBrick, it was the IR receiver. Anyways, back to the original timeline...] So for an upcoming show one of the other club members was talking about bringing 8 pf trains and letting the kids run them with IR controls. That is way cool and I think will be a huge hit with the crowd and the venue... but not so good for my running pf myself. For this show I don't want to do 9v (we are doing this one "just trains" and it will be our first show "on the floor"). So what's a man to do? Then I got to wondering about alternatives for IR in general, and higher power in particular. That was when I discovered that the SBrick can deliver up to 3A while the standard IR provides about 1A and I think the v2 provides up to 1.5A. I needed no further convincing and got one to give a try. I unboxed it two days ago. The first think that is clear, you need an account on the sbrick servers to configure your receiver. The SBrick folks have videos on line showing how to configure the software, but you first have to sign up for an account. This part was one of the things I did not like. Rather than simply offering a receiver, they are offering a social networking site that you have to pass through before you can get to your receiver. Not a huge deal, I just found the social networking a minor annoyance. It only took 5 min to turn off 20+ "share this" options, an equal number of "notify me when" options, and switch my profile to private. I'm sure many will find it a nice bonus, but for me I don't plan on spending much time on the SBrick site. I just want a plain vanilla train controller. This point could also be an issue in 5-10 years if they stop supporting the SBrick, but if it works it is worth the small risk for me. Once you have your account and the SBrick app you can go to the profile market... but none of the controls looked like the met my needs and what little documentation there was did not clarify things for me. So sooner than I had expected, I was off to design my own graphical user interface (GUI) on the Beta version of the designer site. First drawback is that it appears the site only works with Chrome or Safari browsers (not a problem if you already use one of those, but another minor nuisance if you don't... and here too, once I get my GUI working, I don't plan to spend much time on this site either). I was not able to find much documentation on the GUI design, so here's what I discovered: (1) I think you need an "exit" button to quit your control, at least the default GUI has one, it is a special object class and since it seems like a generally desirable feature I did not feel like exploring whether you can do away with it. (2) As I recall, there were three other types of objects- a 2D slider control, a 3D joystick control, and a push-botton. (3) While it was not apparent to this newbe, you do not define which specific output each control is set to (the SBrick has 4 outputs). Instead, you come up with a name for the particular output. I wound up using a single 2D slider and named it "throttle". (4) There are a lot of control settings you specify (or accept the defaults): min power, max power, default start position and power, "snap back to default start position when control released (like the non-train PF controller)" or "hold the last setting when released (like the PF train controller)". It takes some trial and error to get all of these settings to your liking. Each time you want to make a change you need to tweak the GUI layout in your browser, then download them to your device, then tweak the settings on your phone/tablet (more on that in a moment). It is nice that you can scale and position the various control elements where you like on the GUI layout. I think you can include multiple SBricks in the layout too, so a single controller could easily have room for 4+ trains on a tablet and 2+ on a phone. (5) It looks like the GUI is infinitely customizable, they offer 6-12 options for button styles, slider styles, background styles, etc. or you can upload your own artwork. (6) Unfortunately it looks like each GUI design is aspect ratio dependent, presumably to preserve custom artwork. So the GUI I designed for my phone was not available on my tablet and I had to redo it for the tablet at its aspect ratio. Here too, not a big deal given the simplicity of my controller. It's a bit like programming your microwave for the first time. It would be nice if they also had a "universal layout" option that could be used on many different platforms, by shrinking it to the most constrained dimension... maybe in the future. In the mean time, it would have been REALLY nice if they had an option to copy an existing GUI so that you could adjust it (if that option is there I couldn't find it). None of this is a deal breaker for me, just be prepared for a small learning curve as you get up to speed with their system. It took me an hour or two to get to a point that I was satisfied with. With your GUI designed or redesigned in your browser, you then go to an option on the SBrick app to go to the profile market to download a profile. Once downloaded the profiles are stored locally, so you could design a single throttle control in the GUI and then in the SBrick app make variants for several different locomotives, each with their own SBrick. Or as noted above, you probably could also make a single controller that controls multiple SBricks. One minor annoyance to me was that every time you went to the profile market it first insisted on loading all of the standard GUI options (none that I wanted) before it allowed you to get to your own GUI designs. Once the profile you want has been downloaded to your device, you then go to "my creations" to actually associate a GUI with an SBrick. I think you have to have the given SBrick(s) on initially so that your device can sync with the SBrick. Then you go to the configure page for the creation and this is where you tell it to associate the "throttle" in the GUI design controls with one or more specific output(s). I decided to use the Superliners as my test case since this train has more drag (heavier and longer cars). Since I have two motors I decided to put each on a different output from the SBrick. They were previously on a single output from the IR receiver. Not sure if this makes a difference on the SBrick, but it was easy enough to set the throttle to control two or more outputs. There are also virtual pole reverser switches similar to the little switch on the IR controller. Then you are ready to run your model... well... as they recommend, try it first to make sure you have the pole reversers set to the direction that you want. In my initial design I wanted a "kill switch" like the IR train controller in addition to the throttle. I could not see a way to associate two control elements to a single SBrick output, so away went the kill switch. Usually hitting the exit button will kill all motors, but not always (here too, more on emergency stop in a moment). I started with letting the throttle range from full reverse to full forward, but I found that getting it to stop at no power was very difficult. There was no "snapping" to zero. Since the Superliner and North Cost Limited are effectively one way trains, I made a second controller that is limited between zero and full power (no reverse beyond "hand of god"). So I can easily flick it to zero without worry. There might be away to fix this, but I haven't found it yet (remember, I'm a newbe at the SBrick). So I first had the model running with all of the PF innards exposed and it ran great. No problems pulling the entire train through two 90° curves and a small S-jog all at once. It ran for at least an hour with now power drops. So that's how I knew it was the IR receiver that was limiting me before, the IR receiver would not survive when the train was in the two 90° curves (R44). So at this point I stuffed all the PF wires inside the model and put the roof back on. Of course now it started misbehaving. !@#$% did I drain my battery so quickly with the heavy load? The IR would run for a few hours. Nope, that wasn't it. After some trouble shooting I realized that I had inadvertently knocked one of the connectors off when reinstalling the unit after testing. So only one motor was getting powered. As a result, the locomotive would stall once the train was in two curves. Apparenlt without intending to do so I discovered that the SBrick has a much nicer overload response than the IR receiver. The train sat there and the engine did not jet off at full speed, it did not move at all until I rezeroed the controller. In fact the single powered motor was strong enough to pull the train in a single curve with wheels spinning while pushing against the dead motor. Once fixed, I didn't even have problems starting in the most twisted part of my layout. That was when I decided to see how far I could push it. At the moment I have two single crossovers in my layout (I've been playing with the PF trains). So the train effectively went across two switches, through a 90° curve, then through two more switches back to the original track. It was as the locomotive was returning to the main track when it overpowered the rare earth magnets. So more than enough pull and something else failed before the SBrick was pushed to its limits. Now here's where I learned another important feature of the SBrick. Once I set the train running, I could go to blank screen on my device and the train would still run. Nice, you don't have to run down the batteries on your device to keep the trains running. My trains are in the basement and I went to get something upstairs. At one point in this trip there were two concrete walls between me and the train. When I returned the train was stopped. Did that stinking battery finally run out? Nope, it started right back up when I hit the SBrick controller. Okay, what happens when I turn off bluetooth on my device? Train stops. Cool. Lose contact with the controller and the SBrick stops. Turn bluetooth back on and the SBrick responds immediately to the next command. So there is a potential emergency stop if the exit button does not do it for you. So needless to say, I will be buying a second SBrick here in the near future for the North Coast Limited (hum... maybe I can build some of those other cars that I was forced to leave out for the IR receiver). For now I'm going to stop at two SBricks. It is nice to be able to completely hide the receiver, but probably not worth the extra $45 for me given the number of PF trains that I have. The extra power, however, is definitely worth it if you need it.
  24. Stations and depot (inspired by real ones of my city) for my tramway line:
  25. Here is my final design of the St. Louis bridge, commonly known as the Eads bridge because of it's designer, James B. Eads. It uses Indiana Jones roller-coaster ramps for the arches, which looks pretty cool. The bridge is nine tracks total in length and 10 bricks high from base to track. (this means about seven brick of clearance between arch top and floor, so some ships could pass through!) First, a little background info from Wikipedia (which is also where this picture came from): "The Eads Bridge is a combined road and railway bridge over the Mississippi River at St. Louis, connecting St. Louis and East St. Louis, Illinois. The bridge is named for its designer and builder, James B. Eads. When completed in 1874, the Eads Bridge was the longest arch bridge in the world, with an overall length of 6,442 feet (1,964 m). The ribbed steel arch spans were considered daring, as was the use of steel as a primary structural material: it was the first such use of true steel in a major bridge project. The Eads Bridge, which became an iconic image of the city of St. Louis, from the time of its erection until 1965 when the Gateway Arch was constructed, is still in use. The bridge crosses the St. Louis riverfront between Laclede's Landing, to the north, and the grounds of the Gateway Arch, to the south. Today the road deck has been restored, allowing vehicular and pedestrian traffic to cross the river. The St. Louis MetroLink light rail line has used the rail deck since 1993." This is a rough representation, as it is missing a lot, (I.E. no car deck, single track instead of double, and a bunch of parts missing to make the tunnel under downtown and the East St Louis ramp approach.) Here is the modular component, of which I would put three of the big sections together to make the whole bridge. The railings are not quite finished yet... I need to order 31 more 1 x 8 tiles dark bluish gray. These four Technic pins connect each section together. To makes the blue base of the bridge I had a friend cut up a 48 x 48 stud base-plate into eight 8 x 24 stud chunks. Six were used on the bridge, and two are left over in case of future additions. The (Updated) LDD file is available in this link here. As usual, comments, questions, and complaints are always welcome!