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Showing results for tags 'offroad'.
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It's not a scale model of a real life model, though @nico71 mentioned it looked like a Kraz in the comments of Mahjqa's video and I do see the resemblance. It features the following functions: Drive with a L-motor to the rear axles (no AWD). Steered front axle with a L-motor. M-motor for dumping the load with a LA. All axles have pendular suspension with the front axles using actual springs and and at the rear the 2L rubber liftarms to "dampen" the pendular axles a little bit (idea stolen from this MOC/WIP from Jundis). Movement of these rubbers is limited to prevent tyres rubbing the chassis when an axle is tilted. Working headlights Self locking tailgate from @ludov (I don't know if he came up with it, but I did steal it from him ) (center axle also has a thin white liftarm under the tyre at the rear) The self locking mechanism from Ludov works like this: LBG is the bed, yellow is the chassis and white is the lock. The bed is connected to the chassis at the end of the yellow connector and the lock can tilt 1 stud ahead of that which means that it drops further down than the bed would. Thanks for watching and reading. Hope you like it -
Hey everyone, I just wanted to share my upgraded MOC from TC27 (yes, it's been a while) and show a recent photo day that I felt like taking. I decided to remove the canopy for this shoot and showcase the semi-upgraded version from the base that I had designed. This model utilises a flatbed and a trundle drawer in the back. It is straightforward, and I guess it could fit into traffic if it were big enough for Aussie roads. Let me know if there's room for an Aussie ute in your hearts. I do understand that this is a very international LEGO space, but I love seeing everyone's reactions to how we like our vehicles down under! -
Here's my next MOC: I-Beam Suspension Trophy Truck Size: 36L, 16W, 16H, cm Weight: 702g Parts: 843 Features: - Independent front I-Beam suspension - Live axle rear suspension - Opening doors with locks - Opening bonnet with holder - HOG-steering - Fake engine - Modular construction Video: More pictures: Instruction available on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-102687/paave/i-beam-suspension-trophy-truck/ -
Hey everyone, I stripped down my Dodge Demon MOC to the chassis and I want to modify it in a way that will make it look more rugged and potentially even have some RC components added! Do you all have any suggestions that you could please give to support the build?????? Here is a before and after of the chassis as of today: The Changes I have made are the following: - Improved central ground clearance - Components of the chassis have been removed to allow the fitment of bigger tyres - Larger Tires - Some reinforcement of the suspension struts and how they connect to the chassis I have a workbench post on rebrickable with a video! https://rebrickable.com/users/CrazyKreations/workbench/6109/ What should I add or change next?????
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This is a model I've been working on for a few months for the BuWizz gathering and now it's finally time to showcase it. The rules required a 1:10 scale model built after a real vehicle with a working gearbox, steering wheel and fake engine powered by a maximum of 2 BuWizz motors. I also managed to squeeze additional functions and features as following: 2x BuWizz drive motors 1x BuWizz 3.0 for control Working steering wheel actuated by a PU L motor 2 Speed motorized gearbox controlled by a PU m motor All Wheel Drive using planetary hubs Independent double wishbone suspension on all wheels with around 2 cm travel Working fake V12 coupled directly to the drive motors Detailed interiror with tilting rear seats to access the BuWizz Detailed exterior with opning doors, bonnet and tailgate Built out of around 2850 pieces 47 x 21 x 18 cm Weighs around 3 kg As usual with my representations of the real vehicles, I first started with sourcing, editing and importing a 3D reference into LDD. Here's how the digital model looks compared to the LEGO version: And here's the LEGO version without the reference: I hid the doors, bonnet and the tailgate in order to show the detailed interior: The driveline is very compact and efficient. Two BuWizz drive motors are placed right behind the rear seats and power the 2 speed gearbox and an (oversized) V12 engine directly. As with the real vehcile, suspension system is independent at all 4 corners. Steering system is actuated by the steering rack directly and geared up. Gearbox is activated by a PU M motor via a linear clutch and a wave selector: So that was the theory... After a few small fixes and corrections, this is how the finished model looks like in real life (oops, I lost my license plate): Rear view showing the spare tyre, detailed lights, guardrails and exhausts: Doors, bonnet and the tailgate can open up to reveal the massive V12 engine and front shock absorbers: Interior features an adjustable and working steering wheel, 4 fully detailed seats, console and a transmission tunnel. Rear seats can be tilted individually to access the BuWizz 3.0 for charging; Here's a view of the back with the opened tailgate. Thanks to the central motor placement, there's a lot of free space: One of the design goals was to protect all the gears and drive axles from dirt and to keep the bottom as flat as possible. I think I did very well, it's smooter than the real vehicle in that regard: And finally here's a video where among other details you can see how well it performed at the competiton: If you want to have an even more detailed look, you can download the LDD file here: https://bricksafe.com/files/Zblj/lamborgini-lm002/Lamborghini LM002.lxf To summarize I'm really proud of this model. It looks, performs and just feels good and hits all the right spots. One thing's for sure, I'm keeping this one assembled, as I trully believe it's one of the best models I ever designed. -
Hello again, Back in March 2023 I started my YouTube channel with my Raid Buggy. Granted, it look somewhat crude and it was quite slow, but it was my first model with BuWizz motors and bricks so it has a special place my heart. Recently it was the 1 year anniversary of it, and I decided to make a remake of it to prove some how much my LEGO building skills have changed and to honor the original model and channel. So enough with the backstory, let's get to the details: Features 4 Wheel drive with a 2-speed gearbox steering with double steering racks Soft double-wishbone suspension Working gear stick Bodywork built to resemble the original model One of the things that I wanted to show with this model was that you don't necessarily need 4+ BuWizz motors in order to make a good fast off-roader. For this, I decided to make use of a 2-speed gearbox, which has a low gear with the same gearing as the Raid Buggy V1 and the high gear which is some 67% faster (6.2 km/h). The gearbox design was heavily based off @Zerobricks's excellent Simple Off Roader but modified to fit my needs. Another benefit of this is that it has a neutral gear, which is very useful for downhills. From then, I finished it off with the axles of my Monstermog and the chassis was done! from there, I had to build the bodywork, the part that I had been dreading the most For me the body was a very important part, as I wanted to make it reminiscent of the original yet it would have a more sporty look and a stronger construction. Just like the first model, it uses many connectors in @Attika's characteristic style. In the end, the bodywork suffered many changes but I consider them for the better, as it now has a more imposing look and a much more sturdy connection so it can be rolled over without having to fear of breaking it. And now a few more images: The model ended-up being a very good off-roader, with a somewhat high speed (6.2 km/h) yet with some torque left for harder off-road. I pretty much had no issues with it, except the front open differential which sometimes got in the way when off-roading in the low gear. It's otherwise a model more focused on high-speed on uneven terrain so I'm happy with it If you would like to build this model, you can download the .io file at rebrickable here. And as always, here's a YouTube video containing some off-road footage, functions showcase, and some nice Punk Rock music Feel free to post a comment about what are your thoughts about it, and see you in the next one! -
After my rusty train, I was wondering if I can give the same treatment to a car. I wanted to build a beetle for so long, but I don't wanna copy other's work, and also wanted to make some weird stuff, it's a kinda trademark that I have :P After Several hours of designing, I came out with this Baja Rat Rod based on a Beetle The suspension and steering are fully articulated and posable, but they won't work as real suspension/steering, considered this more like an action figure that you can do some dynamic poses to take some cool photos. Even though most of the car is gone, I tried to keep the recognizable beetle profile.
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Hi All, Although I have posted a few pictures previously, I wanted to make a proper writeup of my Trial Unimog alternate of the Zetros set (42129), because I think sharing the design process is valuable for people around here. Also, I am going to share my thoughts about the set itself as a parts pack. But for the curious ones, here's an action video of the end result and a short summary of the features: Features: - good actual outdoor performance :) - permanent AWD, no differentials - 2-speed gearbox, faster gearing than Zetros - relatively large increase in ground clearance - 4-link suspension on the back, large articulation, soft suspension - 3-link suspension with Panhard rod on the front, slightly larger and softer articulation than the Zetros - opening (and lockable) doors and trunk bed When building alternate models, I always try to build something different from the A model, both functionally and in its looks. So when considering what to build out of the Zetros, keeping the Mercedes brand but going for a different form factor, my first idea was a G-Wagon - quickly taken by Grohl himself. Then I though, let's fall back to a Jeep - also taken quickly by Tim.. Unimog was on my list of potential alternates, but I wasn't sure about it yet. But one thing was sure: I wanted to improve the actual off-road performance over the Zetros. So putting the form factor aside a bit, I started experimenting with chassis and suspension designs. One option I had in mind was to keep the live axle setup, but improve it to make it actually useful for off-roading: increase suspension travel, ground clearance and responsiveness. Furthermore, I wanted to see how lightweight the axles could be built, because the Zetros's axles are pretty bulky. I was okay with doing away with the diff-lock, since I wanted to use the M motor for a 2-speed gearbox anyway (just like others). During experimentation with axle designs and suspension travel, I have realized that the 3-link live axle setup of the Zetros is not only limited by the springs' short travel, but also by the 3rd link on the top. That link cannot rotate sideways on the chassis side and is mounted very high on the axles, and as the axle tilts, its top can move sideways significantly, and as the link cannot follow it sideways, it limits the axle's tilting movement; hence very limited articulation. The setup only works for a short range of movement as on the Zetros, which is limited anyway by the springs, but cannot work for a setup that aims for more articulation. One way out of this is to allow the 3rd link to rotate and follow the side movement of the tilting axle, but then the axle needs fixing sideways. There are two ways to fix that. Either a 4-link triangulated setup, or a 3-link setup with a Panhard rod. Although the Zetros does use a Panhard rod at the front, it is unrealistically mounted and too short, that would cause kind of bump-'steer' for larger axle articulation (not exactly bump steer, but more like shifting the whole axle sideways). So after taking the limited number of suspension parts into account (only 6 towball sockets left out of 10 since 4 must be used for mounting the front wheel hubs, and only 1 6L link available in the set), I opted for the following design: on the rear axle, I used 4 towball sockets for a 4-link triangulated setup with long links, allowing the upper links to rotate sideways and follow the movement of the axle. The springs are attached to the middle of the lower links. This allows for long upwards movement of the axle at the end of the links, and makes the suspension much softer even with the hard springs. Pretty solid and allows for large articulation, just what I wanted. Furthermore, the axle itself is quite slim and rigid, and has good ground clearance, especially in the middle where it's most needed (as proven by my off-road tests). The front axle was more challenging. First off, increasing the ground clearance is only possible with one trick: the towball socket liftarms must be built at an angle, going upwards in the middle, and that limits possibilities. Second, the steering motor and its mounting takes space on the axle, and is in the way for the suspension mounting points. I have experimented with two other options: steering through a driveshaft coming from the chassis, but the placement of the motor in the chassis was problematic do to space required by all other motors and the battery, along with the largely articulated suspension design; second I tried to put the steering motor above the front axle, actuating steering through a linkage system. Although, this worked quite well mechanically (verified with the Powered Up app), unfortunately, the Control+ app itself killed this direction: the app limits the steering motor angle to about a 25 degrees less than the calibrated range, which is normally 90 degrees or motor rotation, resulting in about 65 degrees in case of the Zetros (that's why it's steering is so bad by the way). Now in my alternative steering design, the max calibrated angle would have been 45 degrees, and the 25 degrees minus by the app resulted in about 20 degrees of movement, resulting in almost no actual steering at the axle. Pretty sad that you can build something mechanically sound and then not able to control it with the app :( So I fell back to mounting the motor on the axle, and used the remaining 2 towball sockets for two lower links, which again, I built longer to allow for a bit more articulation. Luckily, I was able to mount the motor in a way that it allowed to use the single 6L link as the 3rd link, allowing free sideways tilting movement of the axle, as it is attached to a towball pin on the chassis end as well. I also experimented with the spring mounting technique of the rear, but it was weak and wobbly on the front without the 4-link setup, so I went back to mounting the springs on the axle. However, I managed to move the springs closer to the center of the axle, resulting in both slightly larger articulation and softer suspension. Finally, the axle is fixed sideways by a long Panhard rod going from one end of the chassis to the other end of the axle, eliminating bump 'steer' quite well even at larger articulation. As a side note about parts, it would be really nice if the set had another 6L link somewhere, for example as a Panhard rod on the rear axle. It could be used to build another 4-link suspension to the front, and also as a steering link in an independent setup (which is problematic to build for other reasons as well). So after sorting out the two axles and the suspension, I though this could be used in a Unimog chassis. Though not too different in form from the Zetros, but at least it keeps the brand. Furthermore, I decided to make it different in its functions: the first step was focusing on a proper suspension. The second was the drivetrain. And that also caused some difficulties. Unimogs are short. You'd think that's not a big problem at this scale, as many RC Unimogs have been built before, but it is with the latest drivetrain parts. The new CV joint with a sliding axle hole is a whopping 8 studs long!! (Compare that to a 3L U-joint; sure, the CV joint has the axle built in on one side, but this construction limits builds quite a bit. Not sure why the new sliding variant needed to be 2 studs longer, I thought it would be just 1 longer, enough for the sliding, which is typically about half a stud, but 1 stud max). So two of those, plus, two non-sliding ones at 6 studs length, and your driveshaft is already 28 studs long. Add to that the amount of space required by the differentials (2 studs on each end until the axle center), and your axle distance cannot be less than 32 studs. Add one more to get a nice odd length middle section, and we are at 33 studs from axle to axle. It is quite long for a Unimog. (As a side note, I tried to split the driveshaft in two halves, shifted sideways in the opposite direction to let them overlap in length and hence make things shorter, but it did not work out due to the axle length limitation of the CV joint part and also space limitations from the motors). So because of this, and other considerations I decided to do away with the differentials altogether. It saves 2 studs in length. It allows for a slightly faster 12T / 20T gearing; the Zetros is just too slow. Furthermore, it allows for larger ground clearance, as the differential does not stick out from the axle. It even allows for a slimmer axle design, as there is more space in all directions, such as for mounting the steering motor. And last but not least: no differential - no need to lock them :) With unlocked differentials the off-road performance would be bad anyway. Once I settled for the length and the drivetrain, I needed to place the remaining motors and the gearbox. I was able to sandwich the gearbox between the drive motors, and put the gearbox's driveshaft motor on top, the flip-flop beams and the frames proved to be very useful for building a strong but lightweight chassis. The final challenge was the driveshaft from the gearbox motor. I am not sure why TLG used this motor here as it is super cumbersome to work with. It needs substantial down-gearing (and the right amount for your actual application, which is 180 degrees final turn for a gearbox, but 90 degrees for a diff-lock), a clutch mechanism for safety and physical end stops for calibration. These all take up space as they need to be routed somewhere. Things would have been much easier with another L motor.. (Maybe to make the set slightly cheaper? Or TLG is trying to get rid of these motors on stock? They don't seem to fit well into the PU system without positional control.) Anyway, finally the chassis of the Unimog was complete. I used the remaining CV joints to connect the drive to the spinning fan in the front :) The rest was just bodywork and placing that big hub somewhere. I opted for roughly the same position in the cab as the Zetros, but with the cables inside, to allow easy access to the batteries for replacement. For the design and styling, I took some inspiration from online sources like this one because of its color scheme, but I wanted to minimize the cab length as there weren't enough panels for a 4-door version. I built the cab with no opening hood to make it solid :) And also made the doors lockable to avoid them opening automatically when driving around.. Finally, the black panels were just the right size and amount to cleanly finish the bed, both the sides and the floor. The bed floor opens (but lockable) to see the gearbox, and to give room for accessing the batteries. I have also added fenders and the usual decoration like the rollbars, exhaust pipe, mirrors, ladders. Here are some renders of the whole build. As you can see, I did not use any green parts, as they would have only added clutter to the otherwise clean bodywork I think. Some more notes about the parts of the set apart from the ones mentioned above. The set has a good amount of paneling and beams and connectors, although the green parts are a bit less useful since they are limited in number and size. Another shortcoming of the set is the available gears. It has all sizes, but their number is lacking in some cases and hence high gearing ratios are hard to achieve. For example if you try to deviate from the default drivetrain, those gears will be missing for example for a simple down-gearing for the gearbox motor.. More images can be found on Bricksafe. Building instructions are available on Rebrickable. I did not know too much about Unimogs in the beginning, but during the research and designed process I actually came to like Unimogs quite a bit. I like that they are compact but seemingly efficient machines, and the trial versions actually look pretty cool. And I am actually quite happy with the end result. Let me know how you like it and your opinion on the set's parts! Cheers, Viktor -
Good day, everyone! This project has started as an idea of creating better a bodywork for 42099, but after some time in development it turned into undependent rc modification of Defender 42110. I took inspiration from Bowler WildCat and Bowler Nemesis which are extreme buggy-like offroaders based on Land Rover cars. So I pondered the question, What if... new Defender would be made into Bowler? In result - original defender has become lower, has got lower roof profile, bigger tires, front and rear pushbars, snorkel pipe, stronger footrests, two sets of additional lights and fog lights, antennas, front and rear mudguards, some chains ('cause chains are cool!). Engine was swapped from 6-inline to V8-supercharged! (After I made this model in spring, LR has announced that they will actually make a V8 Defender. Sadly, not supercharged :) Engine and cooling fan are connected to the front axle via chain links. (Yes, chains ARE cool. I had to buy whole Ducati set for this) And the most important - Control+ components. As this Bow-fender shares control profile with 42099, set of electrics is the same. One XL+ for each axle One L+ for steering SmartHub for SmartThings And then I found out that I am... well... not really good in making offroad chassis. At least it was my first try. So I tuned it as much as possible and made a note for future to learn more about lego offroading. (I think, I'll start with Zetros). Video of how this Bow-fender drives on everything it can is of course here: Watch till the very end! And Thanks for watching. Subscribe. P.S. This cat was walking nearby, while I was making video, so I asked him to participate. So there is A cat in the video now, instead of THE Cat - erpillar :) -
Good day/night/whatever everyone! I want to share with you a little experiment of mine that got a bit out of control. I hope, you remember set 8284 and its really unique looking b-model. At least I do. Furthermore, it is one of my favourite b-models and I really wanted to pay tribute to it. Obviuos thought was, of course, to make it RC with the new Control+ elements. After half an hour I got something that could drive and steer. I even tested it in the local park, but... something was off. It just wasn't enough. However good looking this buggy is, its transmission wasn't created with electromotors and speedy driving in mind. Wheels tended to fall off. Gears in diff broke at least once. And offroading capabilities were...em... on the small side of expectations. And I got an idea! I decided not just to motorize this buggy, but completely redesign, reimagine it from technical point of view, keeping exterior close enough to what it was before. You know, like these like-oldtimer-outside-but-modern-inside tribute cars which car companies sometimes make. Also I wanted to make transformation function more interesting and useful. So, I started on the blueprints... And here it is! All modern all new Dune Buggy! With familiar face which got a facelift. Literally. New version of transformation not just shortens the car, but lifts all front section up While cockpit raises up, special levers make sure that headlights between wheels always stay horizontal. And not only that. Another special lever in the rear section locks the differential using new orange shifter. This way buggy becomes most offroad. And now - to the video! (With the new intro btw)
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Hey everyone, for a couple of months I've been working on a lego technic camper module that fits on Lego 42129 easily! After a lot of designing, I have come up with a design. I've made a video for all to see and please let me know what you think of this model. This model doesn't affect the Zetros's ability to move in any way (however just to be safe please consider reinforcing the rear axle). It has the following features: Awning Interior with dedicated seating area, bedding and kitchen (kitchen has to be built with bricks haha) rear compartment storage along with a lock Openable windows for ventilation Flexible but sturdy structure for offroading openable door Additional step ladder that can be used to enter the unit Additional storage on the door side of the unit that has a separate compartment to the rear storage space for jerry cans Space for extra wheel
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Among those 3 buggy`s/ truggy`s that I have to test-build them I just managed to add a 4th one. This one is the first 4x4 with 2 motors. As usual, it packs some buggy motors (2 of them, as I said), a servo, removable body (at least semi-detachable), positive caster-angle and full independent suspension. The weight is just under 900g; pretty decent, considering it is 4x4 and that has a pretty big body and some useless pieces to imitate the electric motor of the real RC buggy. Unfortunately, I think that this will only be available with normal RC batteries, because almost no existing hub for Lego is not fitting. -
Hi all! My new model - is realisation in Lego - off-road custom based on the legendary american SUV - Jeep Cherokee (XJ). Everything according to the canons - axles, a rear differential lock, winch, snorkel, fenders, footrests, thick-walled pipe bumpers, an expeditionary trunk, chandelier and big wheels. -
Some might still remember this offroader I started sometime ago in 2019 and showed earlier versions in the 8081 mods thread a while ago. Well, I finally "finished" it now and created digital models for it. I call it the COMMANDO and it is "sold" by MM (Mars Motors). People that follow my Turbo Racers series and my series of 42093 scale cars with swappable engines should already know MM. To show its capabilities I made a trip to a special location and examined what it can do there. Have a look into the video to see what it possible: The configuration in this video has all axles locked and uses the drivetrain variation #2 (see below). The COMMANDO started as the glorious 8081 A model and went through lots of modifications - especially to the front and rear axles and also to the outer hull - on the way to the final result. I created three versions so far: with 1 x PF AA battery box with 2 x PF AAA battery boxes with BuWizz 2.0 ...from which the BuWizz one was used during the video and also most of the time I drove it so far. Here are a few more detailed pictures showing it in that terrain: Here are two pictures showing the chassis construction (click to magnify): ...and here are the three drivetrain variations that can be used (click to magnify) More variations are possible and the gearing can be changed with relative ease, as the motors are not an integral part of the construction: #1 is used for the PF versions and #2 is used for the BuWizz version. #3 can be used to examine the effects of open differentials in offroad situations. The COMMANDO can use various tyres and clearance should be good enough for all of them: 45982 81.6 x 38 R Balloon tyres 18450 81.6 x 44 R (Tumbler) tyres 69912 81 x 35 Tractor (Zetros) tyres I have also already designed a few addons that will be released at a later time - need to create the digital models first - and I have even more ideas for it. So far I have available: front winch rear PTO exploration gear tracks So stay tuned for additions. I hope you like the COMMANDO and I hope it is a worthy successor to the 8081 A model. If you're interested, the - free of charge - digital models (Studio files with detailed steps and submodels) and more pictures are available on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-111591/johnnym/mm-commando/ -
Hello, fellow Eurobrickers! I designed this 6x6 truck today as I challenge and I didn't think much about it but It turned out to be a success (in my eyes). I hope you guys like it. The design was inspired by a mix of old offroad 6x6 military trucks. I say it just needs to do the job and it doesn't need to look pretty while doing it. Here is a list of its features: 6x6 drivetrain springless suspension Modular design Remote control Powered by 2L motors Steering by 1M motor Removable tray (all sides can be dropped. Openable bonnet Openable doors 2 speed gearbox Hi-Low gear For more photos please go to our Bricksafe Page here Please go easy on the look it was built in one day, I would love some feedback. Happy Mocking CrazyKreations
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Greetings, ladies and gentlemen! I'm glad to introduce you a modification of @Didumos69 Greyhound buggy Yeah, "Mad Max" inspired vehicle again First idea was just "increase durability and add some crawler abilities", but result exceed all my expectations. Adding planetary gear reduction 4:1 to all wheels increase offroad capabilities to sky high (keeping in mind perfectly working suspension of original) And final step - I decide to prepare for summer offroad Lego event in Moscow and for future festival, so I reworked exterior in postapocalyptic style. Other photos Here is LDD model of front hub with planetary gear reduction I used in my modification. Rear hub is done similarly, except for black connectors to suspension arms and without U-joint. Bonus: video from "King of the Hammers" race event in Moscow and photo from "Summer Brick" Lego festival in Taganrog, Russia Thanks to @Didumos69 for his amazing buggy and instructions, and also to @Shurik & @VerSen for cool photos! Hope you like this rusty piece of metal! -
Hello dear friends! Please let us (yes, today - we are both with ADCchannel are the authors) introduce the latest MOC - today this is Mercedes-Benz G-class 6X6 Trial edition. This truck (definitely it is!) is our common project. I was always dreaming of creating my own implementation of this greatest version of legendary Gelandewagen. I build the body with pleasure and know that ADCchannel riched senior skills in building chassis for truck trial, so I offered hiw some kind of collaboration. Luckily, he immediately agreed. The main difficulty was that we are living in different cities, but not far from. So, couple of month were spent truck is ready. To be honest body itself is absolutely new. From my previous G class Mansory edition I took only front view and side doors. Roof, interior, body frame is completely new. Mandatory point was to create easily removable body. So, you can split body from frame removing only six axles (easy to remove). Some description, though :) This monster is propelled by 3 XL motors - one per each axle. M motor for steering and we decide to power truck bu Buwizz. But it's ready to use regular Lego IR receivers. Suspension has 3 portal axles like original Mercedes. We use 7 Claas tires (actually 6 + 1 third party). Everything what can be opened - is openable - hood, doors, trunk. Unfortunately there were no room for any V8 engine due to front suspension construction. First purpose was to build truck suitable for trial. Here are the two different(!) videos. Feel free to watch and comment. Any critics would be highly appreciated. Dimensions: - Wide - 25 studs, - Lengh - 72 studs Here are some photos from bricksafe page: https://www.bricksafe.com/pages/Aleh/mercedes-benz-g-class-6x6 Pictures will be uploaded in a couple of hours. Some technical issues for now. -
Today I want to show you my newest and fastest ever car. Ariel Nomad British light weight car based on twin brother Ariel Atom - one of the fastest road cars. Nomad like buggy cars have only rear wheel drive. During construction I recived also BuWizz brick for review . I decided to put it in the vehicle and show the diffrence between Power Function and BuWizz when presenting new model. It allowed to increase its power and simultaneous weight loss. Technical data: -Lenght 29cm -Width 18cm -Height 13cm -Weight 810g (Buwizz) -2x XL motors -1x Servomotor -1x Extension cable -Buwizz or small BatteryBox + IR tower In my car, I tried to reproduce the best possible vehicle mechanical construction. It has a independent suspension which on the driven rear axle turned to be a quite a challange in medium size scale. In my model I dont use differential to bulid drivetrain. Power is transmitted directly with a ratio 3:1 from two XL motors. Despite small size of BuWizz I failed to put fake engine, but I am happy with weight of car because it was possible to have weight under one kilogram. For me, Buwizz is the most practical third party controling brick. It offers everything in one practical case. My only small objection is the inability to use gaming pad to steering but I think that it will be possible in the future. Some photos: Flickr for more: https://www.flickr.com/photos/142980798@N05/sets/72157673238594798/with/29638046247/ I am also invite you to see trailer: If you like this Subscribe me with notification. Enjoy! -
Hello everyone, here again with a new MOC. Nissan Patrol GR II (Y61). (Updated - body lowered by 1 stud and some panels replaced by plates to reduce weight. Fifth generation of patrols before restyling is my favorite. A lot of experienced offroaders love it too, not without a reason. Update - outdoor trials video: This is a 3-door version which is much less common than 5. All the dimensions are strictly scaled 1:10. Taking into consideration that the real 42 inch tractor wheels definitely require suspension lift and are 106cm long. Also it is 3 doors and not 5 just because of the scale I've chosen. 5-doors would be something around 80 studs long, considering paneling and other stuff - that would be too heavy for an offroad vehicle. Dimensions: 45cm long x 18.5cm wide x 22.5cm height. Weight on the video: 1750g. I wanted to build a working vehicle, not just a standing brick, so I had to sacrifice some things to get it into optimal weight condition. The front is the visiting card for Patrols (imho). Think I caught the main features. All photos: https://bricksafe.com/pages/gate/gate-lego-technic/nissan-patrol-y61-suv The most effecient gear reduction was this one (no reduction from XLs to the transmission): In my previous MOC Ural 4320 I used a similar reduction, but 1:3 slower in the gearbox. It was really slow and couldn't compensate the speed with torque. Resulting - it could go from an obstacle steadily, but not climb it - if it was a large hill. Not only this one is faster, but has a shorter transmission, which is always good for models. No strain axle - steering ball joints is at it max bent position, giving a nice clearance. Always a minimal height limitation when using 9.5l shocks. I could cut off a stud here and there, but this position I liked most of all. The body is fully modular - axles, engine part, chassis and panels: Took it for a hard outdoor drive and of course made some pictures: Think I have failed this MOC, because: - I wanted both front and rear axle diff lock, but just couldn't find space in the front with winch on top (Update - actually not a problem at all. If it doesn't sit on its axles, it moves out of almost every situation (with winch 100%)). - This model literally wouldn't drive with many other gear setups (originally tried 2PF L and 20 beavel gears locked differential, but may be because of the weight, may be something else - couldn't make it cross obstacles without gear crack). - The weight is not distributed evenly between axles, with an overweight on the back. As you can see in the video I've taken some parts from its back to more or less stabilize it. - Design has some holes and is not so smooth - result of purpose of this vehicle - which is offroad. Many small detalization parts were falling off. So with quite a few rebuilds was getting rid of them up to this point. With 41999 for scale: Summing it up, I like it a lot. Really enjoying using it for direct purpose. It rolls over, crashes, but is extremely satisfying. Feel free to criticize. -
So here's the idea: seeing as all large and complex Technic submissions have failed on LEGO Ideas so far, I set out to create a very small and simple, yet fully functional 4x4 crawler. This is the result, which can be considered the 9398 set on a budget ;) as it offers pretty much the same functionality in a considerably smaller package. If you're willing to give this project a shot at becoming a set (a Technic Ideas set would be nice, at long last), please support it here: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/ba4cebf3-1f80-497d-9ecb-faee2dbc1df3 Photos and description: http://sariel.pl/2018/11/4x4-jeep-wrangler-trailcat/ -
Current: Just scroll down, it's not that far! (Just kidding! This will be updated soon!) Hi! I have another WIP car that I am building! I am still not sure what to call it, but it kind of reminds me of the newer Toyota RAV-4. Here is the chassis and part of the front end! (Sorry for bad pic) I borrowed the shaping from my Supercar X for the front panels. It is powered by a buggy motor and a servo. The newer battery box with new batteries and V2 receiver work great with the buggy motor! Here is a shot of the rear suspension: Thanks for viewing! -TechnicRCRacer -
I' ve decided to make an alternative model for 42054 CLAAS XERION 5000 TRAC VC set. I' ve wanted to design something different from all those excellent c models already made, so I made a truck capable of off-road conditions, with crane and many other functions. The result: Functions: rear axle drive with 4 piston engine steering live axle suspension side outriggers cabin tilting rear PTO (power take off) crane arm rotation crane arm 1st stage elevation crane arm 2nd stage elevation grabber closing/opening Please watch the video to see this machine in action and for more details. This model is powered by one m motor with rotation direction selection. It powers main selector, crane selector. and PTO. Main selector switches between worm gear powered functions and arm rotation. When worm gear functions are selected, there is another switch to choose between outriggers and cabin tilting. The crane selector switches between 1st and 2nd stage elevation. I had to use some interesting (I think) solutions because of parts selection in 42054 set: Piston engine There are no piston engine parts in the set, so i made them from some connectors. You can see it working in the video. Suspension There are no shock absorbers or wishbones too. So I' ve made a suspension based on twisting axles: Every wishbone is suspended independly. 3 of those connected to axle make a well-working long travel soft off-road suspension: Grabber There was a grabber in original set, but when building the grabber I've already used the worm gear for more important functions, so I' ve designed a different locking mechanism: Turning the green axle makes the red grabber frame move up and down and becouse of engaging the blue knob gear with h-frame opening and closing blue grabber. Instructions Instructions are already available here on rebrickable! I hope you liked this model. -
LEGO Tatra trucks are dime a dozen, but whenever I see them, they are either very large, complex and sluggish, or they are small but don't really have the unique Tatra suspension, nor drivetrain, nor steering. So I set out with a simple goal: make the smallest Tatra model I can that has it all: the suspension, drivetrain and steering just like in the real Tatra truck. This is the result:
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I think anyone who ever used the portal hubs came to this issue. The hubs simply have the steering pivot point so far from the center of the wheel, that you need to either reduce the steering angle, or have a model with large fenders. Today I came up with this simple mechanism to compensate for that by simply turning the whole front axle in the opposite direction. The two tilted 6L links are usually used to keep the axle from moving forwards/backwards. In my case they are attached to the steering rack at a high angle. Moving the steering rack will cause the geometry of the axle to change - rotating it to (mostly) compensate for the large pivot point: Of course this is just an idea for now, but it should be easy to implement on a real model. The wider the axle, the better the compensation. Of course the axle has to be designed in such way, that suspension, drive and steering system will be able to work with this degree of movement.
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Hi, I've built a stupid simple truck. As you might have guessed already, it is largely inspired by iconic Soviet-Russian truck Ural. Driven by two L-motors and steered by a servo, it doesn't have any other motorized functions. The fifth wheel rotates in 2 dimensions and has a simple locking mechanism as seen in a recent 42078 set. However, I doubt it will function properly due to natural tendency to lean backwards under the towing force. Overall, this project is a failure. The initial goal was to built a 6x6 truck with differentials and none-ball-joints suspension. Although the goal was achieved, the front axle turned out to be a complete disaster. First, I had to swap a 6-link for a rather awkward system in order to make the front wheels steer for at least a bit . Second, this truck can't overcome even a tiny obstacle, cause the driving gear in the front begins crackle hysterically. This happens because I don't have the new 6145859 wheel bearing parts, so in order to fit the steering bar with the old ones I had to elevate the axle center 1 stud above the 5x7 frame. And the result simply do not sturdy enough to hold the affecting forces. However, I'm going to figure out a better design later in LDCad. Hopefully this MOC will mark my return to regular building, so I'm looking forward for your comments.
