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Showing results for tags 'defender'.
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From Brickcatch: Official Name: Land Rover Classic Defender SKU : 10317 Pieces: 2336 Theme: LEGO Icons Age: 18+ Years Price: $239.99 Release Date: 1st April 2023 Hopefully it should be of the same scale as the Mustang/Camaro. It should also include the following: Opening passenger doors Steering mechanism Opening rear door/hood
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The Lunar Year of Tiger! The Land Rover Defender 90 and 110 are coming as Electric Vehicle. Don't miss the Footage! Click to Watch With Camellia Mini Controller to control 2 DC motors and 2 Servo Motors. www.camellia.xin Copyright © Camellia Café 2016-2021 Camellia Café and its LOGO are registered trademarks. -
Good day, everyone! This project has started as an idea of creating better a bodywork for 42099, but after some time in development it turned into undependent rc modification of Defender 42110. I took inspiration from Bowler WildCat and Bowler Nemesis which are extreme buggy-like offroaders based on Land Rover cars. So I pondered the question, What if... new Defender would be made into Bowler? In result - original defender has become lower, has got lower roof profile, bigger tires, front and rear pushbars, snorkel pipe, stronger footrests, two sets of additional lights and fog lights, antennas, front and rear mudguards, some chains ('cause chains are cool!). Engine was swapped from 6-inline to V8-supercharged! (After I made this model in spring, LR has announced that they will actually make a V8 Defender. Sadly, not supercharged :) Engine and cooling fan are connected to the front axle via chain links. (Yes, chains ARE cool. I had to buy whole Ducati set for this) And the most important - Control+ components. As this Bow-fender shares control profile with 42099, set of electrics is the same. One XL+ for each axle One L+ for steering SmartHub for SmartThings And then I found out that I am... well... not really good in making offroad chassis. At least it was my first try. So I tuned it as much as possible and made a note for future to learn more about lego offroading. (I think, I'll start with Zetros). Video of how this Bow-fender drives on everything it can is of course here: Watch till the very end! And Thanks for watching. Subscribe. P.S. This cat was walking nearby, while I was making video, so I asked him to participate. So there is A cat in the video now, instead of THE Cat - erpillar :) -
This is my MOD chassis for the LEGO Technic Land Rover Defender 42110 with motorization using PF motors. Features: - fully RC for driving, steering and gear selection - working V8 fake engine - driving by 2 PF L-motors - steering by PF servo motor - 2-speed gearbox (LO/HI), controlled by PF M-motor - AWD with a centre differential, including differential lock - the centre differential lock is auto engaged by the LO gear I hope you enjoy the video :-.)
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Hi Guys! I'm happy to present you my (first) alternate model of the Mercedes G500 (set 42177) into a classic Defender 90! A classic Defender has been on my todo list for a long time, I have tried it with set 42110 as well, but certain details just did not work out (oversized fender pieces relative to wheels), but with the G500 set I finally went for it as the parts are quite okay for making the iconic details of this model. Due to the orange color, the model was heavily inspired by modern variants in classic shape, such as the Heritage version, which does exist in almost exactly this color. Let me take you through the design process as well, but to start off, here's a video to showcase all the features! Features 4-link live axle suspension on both axles all wheel drive with central and rear differential lock 3+R gearbox in an H pattern working inline 4 piston engine working steering wheel and HoG openable doors with functional locks, including the rear clean interior with seats and classic benches in the rear section numerous accessories such as roof rack, reflectors, toolbox, cans, ladder, spare wheel, snorkel, spade and axe Design process Bodywork As already usual for me with these kind of models, the design started with the bodywork to see whether it is possible to make a good looking model using the parts of the source set. This was done in Studio to be able to easily build in the air. Certain parts were key, such as the trapezoid panels to be able to make the hood (actually I already suspected this possibility when I heard about the G-class as it has a similar hood shape). Then I tried the front face / lights / grille. Luckily the source set has an unusually high number of 1x2 grille tiles, just enough to make the entire large grille (which had to become even width because of the 1x2 part). Also, enough clear parts to make the light cluster, even the luxury of choosing from 2x2 and 3x3 dishes, somehow the smaller ones looked better for me, but they are actually exchangeable. Next was the fenders. This was critical, since the Defender has a distinct shape of fenders, with angles / curved shape that are different from the 4x6 angled beam used in the G500, so using those parts was out of the question. Also, the set did not have enough 112.5 degree angled connectors, which would have been perfect for the job, so I had to resort to different technique to make the angle. Luckily, there were just enough black connectors in the set, which could be used with some tricky mounting points. Another key detail was the curved slope running through the sides; to see whether there's enough material for that and whether it can all be connected firmly to the rest of the body. Especially the door are was tricky, where I also had to pay attention to allow it to close easily. The new angled connectors also came in handy to add that small but important detail to the side windows, which is best seen on the rear view. So slowly the sides and front got together, and using the curved black panels, I just managed to put together a convincing roof shape too. Last I made the rear door/windows, where I also managed to model those little side windows while allowing the door to be openable. At first I did not want to bother with door locks, I did not find them very convincing on the A model, but then I saw that all alternate builds do it, so I thought I had to give it a try, and I am happy I did. I tried to make a more realistic and smooth mechanism than the A model, and I stumbled upon a simple way that opens by pushing the handle down. It works like a charm, and I managed to replicate it for the rear door too. Chassis, drivetrain, suspension Once the body was looking nice and the dimensions were known, I started thinking about the internals. First the suspension. The rear suspension was the part in the A model which was the most underwhelming for me. Even though there is a ton of space at this scale, the linkage geometry is just unrealistic; it even binds up if there is no weight on it because of too much constraints (triangulated upper links plus a Panhard rod constraining the axle at different heights is just physically impossible). The use of that new suspension arm feels out of place, a simple parallel 4-link with long 9L links and the Panhard rod could have been much simpler and realistic at the same time. Another thing I don't like there is the chassis rail geometry and the spring mounting. The chassis rails are unrealistically tall along with the springs which end up being in the middle of the trunk. Again, I was thinking, at this large scale, in a manual model, it should be possible to make something more realistic. So that's what I aimed for, if even with the part restrictions of the set. In a chassis with live axles squeezing in the 3x19 frame is a bit more difficult as longitudinal space is a luxury because the axles need more space, but it turned out to be just okay. So I aimed for a solid but slim / flat chassis railing that does not protrude into the bed area in the rear. As for the suspension linkage, I used the short ones on the front, and for the rear, I used longer ones to allow the lower ones to pass under the frame. I also moved the springs out to keep the bed clean. In this model I did not aim for long travel anyway, as I wanted to keep the body lowered on the wheels, to look more realistic, unlike the overly lifter G500. I mean it's nice to have that long travel, but when it comes at the cost of obscuring both the chassis / spring geometry and the fenders at the same time, then something does not feel right. I think the core of the problem is using these short springs all the time instead of bringing back longer softer ones. With these short ones it's not possible to build live axles with realistic geometry unless the spring ends up in the middle of the chassis / trunk, which is no good. Once the suspension geometry was sorted, I moved onto the drivetrain / gearbox. The most challenging part. To make something true to the real world model, I definitely wanted an H pattern gearbox with a reverse gear. On one hand the availability of the new 12T clutch gear in the set made this possible, as it allows to move one of the 4 gears out of the connected gear-train and reverse it without effecting the others. On the downside, the set is quite short on various gear sizes (no 24T and 8T gears typically used in 3+ speed gearboxes), so actually making the 3-speed part was more difficult, I had to use a longer train of gears which made things harder to route and brace, caused some weird friction issues as well, and also I used up most of the gears in the set. The inclusion of a central differential with lock also complicated things, so I just settled from a bottom operated lock, as in case of the rear axle anyways. Another difficulty with a 3+R gearbox in an H pattern is where to put the reverse gear. The problem with the more obvious / favorable 1-2-3-R positions is that the reverse gear gets opposite to the 3rd gear, which means it will naturally become similar speed as the 3rd gear, which is unrealistic. So I went with the R-1-2-3 pattern, which allows the reverse gear to be similar speed as the 1st gear which is realistic. On top of all, the HoG steering axle also had to pass through the chassis. Luckily, I could avoid routing it through the middle, colliding with the gearbox, rather on the side instead. This is because the steering is based on a linkage, as in case of real live axles, which is actuated from one side (where the steering wheel is) to the other. It turned out, that I had free space on the right side of the gearbox, which was lucky, because then I could put the steering wheel and the HoG routing to the right side, which is just a good match for the Defender being an English brand (interestingly, mirroring the gearbox would not work because then the H pattern would also get mirrored which would be unrealistic for the gear sequence). In the end I ran out of gears, so I had to use some tricky linkages to get the steering wheel move. I even had to resort to using the 20T clutch gear on a friction pin, which works okay when using the HoG and it moves the steering wheel in the cabin, but the steering wheel could not be used to steer the model (though can be fixed by swapping that green gear to a proper 20T one). An interesting thing about the build is that the actual gearbox submodule turned out the be a single piece dropped in between the chassis frames. Interior and accessories The final touches were the interior, and some extra accessories to make the model more interesting, less plain. As for the interior, besides the usual front seats, I definitely wanted to make sideways benches in the rear section. Luckily enough, there was enough DBG material to make these happen. As for the extras, an obvious one was the spare wheel and the roof rack, but I also added a ladder on the side, making sure that it (and the spare wheel) still allows the rear door to open. I also took some inspiration from the Icons Defender to mount some tools (spade and axe) to the hood, and add a toolbox and some cans on the top. Also a simple snorkel mountable to the A pillar. Here are some photos to showcase it in real life. More images are available on Bricksafe. Building instructions are available on Rebrickable. Let me know how you like it! Cheers, Viktor -
Hey everyone, As soon as I saw the defender set and heard about its ambitious gearbox I knew I was gonna get it! Loved the set but felt that it didn't show off its engineering enough so I set off on building a B model for it. It has two speed gearboxes for each arm and a four speed gearbox for the turntable. Still has a few tweaks needed but for the most part all major mechanisms are in place. It's based off the design of my V2 spirograph which makes use of the sets differentials. I was worried about the stability of it as it is hand cranked, however I was pleasantly surprised with the results. The finished prints almost hide imperfections when viewed as a whole. I love this set, looking forward to see what others come up with. Once I am happy with everything I will make some intsructions and a full video of it, just wanted to share it with you all. Peace:) -
Hi Everybody, This is my first post on EB. It's a modified 42110 to make a Defender Pickup. It is not a B-model, it includes several extra parts. The chassis and mechanics are the original from 42110, thus making a small pickup. Main changes: All the rear body (obviously ) Doors were reduced by 2L. HoG moved forward by 2L. Rear axle rebuild using the Steering Wheel Hub Holder with 2 Pin Holes, which allowed lowering the shock absorbers by 3L. Bonnet reshaped to hold the spare wheel. It became heavier and with no friction hinges, so it includes a support to stay open and a magnet to stay closed. These resulted in a weight redistribution, which required replacing the front soft shock absorbers by hard ones. Probably the soft shock absorbers would now be fit the back but I didn't do it. Rear lights lowered 1L. Seats horizontally adjustable. Extra center foldable seat. To do this I had to remove the gear selector, but it really is not necessary since the mechanism is accessible in the back. Some pictures: It includes some extras. A back cover: A soft cover structure: ... a spoiler ... More pictures in https://bricksafe.com/pages/vascolp/201912defenderpickup Thats all, I hope you like it. Wish you all a happy new year! VascoLP -
I thought for some bit about getting 42110. As a car enthusiast and MOC builder, I have always loved the Technic manufacturer cars, owning the Arocs, Porsche, Bugatti, and even the Corvette. All those sets wielded me some very useful pieces to make future MOCs with. However, the Land Rover set doesn't seem like a good buy for me... I have a lot of Lego already. It's expensive. I'm not into Land Rover, even though I think the new Defender is cool. The pieces. The lockable differential and the new wheels are the only pieces that I can find use with, and there's not many good ideas I have for green MOCs. I thought about getting the Porsche 911 RSR instead because of its white pieces, but the fenders have prints. So I guess I'll take a pass on both cars, what is your opinion on the new Defender set? -
Dimensions: 29.5 x 49 x 30 studsWeight: 1524 g Instruction: download here To see all my ongoing projects follow me on instagram @anton.kablash Functions: 0. In the model i kept original chassis with improvements and adjustments HoG 4-speed sequential gearbox All wheel drive with 3 differentials Independent suspension on both axles Working detailed in-line 6-cylinder engine Working steering wheel in the cab Openable doors, hood The driver's cab can be tilted for access to a detailed V6 engine Working doors locks Detailed exterior and interior -
I was preparing this for over a week and more is coming soon (outdoor reviews will be available on saturday 5.10.2019 and next wednesday 9.10.2019 ). The more i'm playing with LEGO, the more i'm getting addicted. I would appreciate if you could give me a subscribe! Build time of 42100: 9 hours ( 4108 parts ) Build time of 42110: 6 hours ( 2573 parts ) LEGO 42100 Liebherr R 9800 Excavator | Test Drive with Cat Food LEGO 42100 Liebherr R 9800 Excavator | Outdoor test - do not this at home! It hurts. LEGO 42110 Land Rover Defender Speed-Build & Functionality Showcase LEGO 42110 Land Rover Defender Outdoor Test LEGO 42100 Liebherr R 9800 Speed-Build LEGO Technic Control+ App Review | Easy tutorial how to use it First unboxing of 42100 & 42110 ( I was first on youtube :D )
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Hi everyone, I have finished my Willys Jeep alternate of the Land Rover set, so I'd like to summarize the final model here. Features: - Live axle suspension with imitated leaf springs on both axles. It uses one shock absorber per wheel, also positioned realistically. I also tried to construct the core frame as is in the real life car. - Manual 4-speed gearbox in a classic H-shape. Additionally, there is a Hi / Lo gear switch and an RWD / 4WD switch, just like in the real car, and the positioning of those switches is as realistic as I could get with the limited space. The whole gearbox is in the middle of the chassis. - Working inline 4-piston engine as in reality, I tried to add engine details modelled after the real engine. - Functional steering wheel and also HOG steering in the back (which had to pass through the gearbox). - Foldable windshield and opening hood with stander included. I managed to get the windshield folding joint similar to reality. - The interior is clean and I tried to get the shape of the seats as close to reality as I could, although the square and flat front seats were hard to reproduce with the available parts in that color. - Detachable roof, again, I tried to reproduce the shape of the tubing. - Extras: Jerry-can on the back, and of course the spare wheel. More details about the design process are given on Rebrickable. Here's a video showcasing the functions: And some renders and photos: Building instructions are available on Rebrickable. Feedback is welcome! Cheers!
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LL-947 Space Defender Built to replace the ageing fleet of LL-918 one-man spacecrafts, the LL-947 has 6 side mounted lasers on the wings to defend itself from the forces of Blacktron, which was a key problem with the old 918 class spacecrafts, who couldn't defend themselves if they ran into trouble. There are numerous reports that some of these have been modified by Blacktron to use against our forces, but so far there is no photographic evidence of these occurrences. Enjoy!
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Hi, If you have blue & red 3D glasses, have a look to this fabulous model. This is a cuusoo model of Cornwaille. If you like, support it! His Tie Bomber is also great... If some are interested, I could write a note concerning the stereo renders.
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I think the Swamp Police SUV in 60068 is one of the best out-of-the-box minifig scale offroad vehicles Lego has ever designed, looks-wise. It's a marriage of a Land Rover Defender and Dodge Ram with a lifted Jeep's proportions. I took the design and pushed it just a little more. I was inspired by the US Forest Service's and Border Patrol's paint schemes, as well as then open-sides look of the Jeep Wrangler Hardtop Concept: My mod is probably 95% similar to the original model. The front end has been played with, giving it a contemporary LED-style light bar in place of the original model's four round lights, and a winch in place of the original bumper's tow hook. The headlights and grille are more generic (or perhaps closer to classic Nissan/Suzuki shapes). Aside from the obvious replacement of the rear windows, the rear is identical to the original build. The roof rack was an interesting sketch that plays out beautifully. I will be making this for real at some point soon, I have near total confidence that all the dark green elements exist. I'm torn on which windshield to use though. Any thoughts?
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Hi everyone! This is my new MOC, a small scale version of my past Land Rover Defender 90, with which I got really frustrated. ( http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=101819&st=0 ) It's approximetely technic figures scale. It has hand of god steering and suspended rear axle. Also you can open doors, hood, and back. Hope you liked it! See ya soon! -
Here is my take on the motorization of the 42110. Basically the whole model was lifted to accomodate the bigger wheel, motors and BuWizzes. Model is powered by a total of 8 motors, 4L motors for RWD, 2L motors for FWD, one servo and one M motor. Total gear ratio is 1:3. It uses custom portal hubs in the front which have a pivot even closer than normal ones thanks to the new rims. Rear uses normal hubs and wheels, since they are sturdier. Axles use the original suspension's upper arms as mounting points along with a pair of 9L links for each axle. The original gearbox is connected to the rear drive, so it works normally. Steering is also connected to the original links, so steerign wheel and HOG also turn when steering Winch is motorized using an M motor. Video coming soon.
