dr_spock

I didn't break any internal gears but something must have worn down internally after prolonged use. I took the M-motor apart and the motor ran quieter without the internal gears attached.

Very nice update to your previous motorized CTT. It seems like CTTs are popular now. LEGO is coming out with one and I'm almost finished with mine. Good luck with the contest.

They could be hoping you would follow them in return so that they can get a bigger follower number.

With old electrical systems, you should look out for corrosion and wire insulation rot. If buying used, then inspect wear and tear on the moving parts and the motor brushes.

I have no problems fitting AA Eneloop into the AA battery box. The LEGO brick separator can be used to get them out of the battery box.

Maybe someone filed an IP complaint in Germany against CB. Anything coming in from CB would be flagged by customs. Or it could be the paperwork. Maybe CB included some extra goodies not documented.

I think there are problems driving two or more M-motors off the same channel on the V2 IR Receiver. But it is fine for the other motor types.

Good job. Turntable for train roundhouse, large amusement park carousel, etc. Many good uses for stud constructions outside of Technics.

Our LUG runs PF trains outdoor at picnic events. We haven't noticed problems with sunlight. You do have to aim the remote at the IR receiver as it is line of sight and there are no walls or ceiling to reflect the IR signals outdoors. I suppose sunlight in the 960nm infrared light can run interference just like a microwave oven can cause RF interference for Bluetooth or Wifi devices in the 2.4GHz band. I do notice PF can get sluggish when playing TechBall. You are competing with 3 other contestants each with a PF remote, all sending commands at the same time. Not sure if Sbricks are allowed under official TechBall rules. I found speed controllers worked better for controlling the 42030 Volvo loader than the bang-bang remotes. Particularily for steering with the servo motor. Pressing the stop button automatically centers the steering and the knob provides 14 steps of proportional steering. You can also control the speed of the loader and bucket.

Welcome aboard, Furry.

I would like to participate. I think my ship is licensed.

LEGO may also hire ad agencies on a per project basis to do the marketing campaign and materials. Good idea to double proof read and spell check before sending your C.V. and cover letter to LEGO.

If you're getting an IR remote or speed controllers, don't forget to add a IR receiver to your shop list. Depending on what you're doing, an M motor and battery box is all is required. You can build a gear box to change the speed of motor output.

Haha, clever. I like how you are using a Disney potty. Congrats on your win.

This could be a case of un-intended reverse psychology. Tell people you don't want something done and they do the opposite. Like running for election, you get or convince people to do the promo work for you. It is a lot of work for one person to hit every place where there might be voters for your project.

I guess the spammers came back from Christmas holiday vacation. Just hit the old "report" button and Peppermint-M will take care of the rest when she's available.

Nothing wrong having some sets to display and admire. It's your hobby, you do what bring you joy. Are you wanting to learn to MOC in Technics or regular System bricks or a combination? If you don't want to take apart your current sets, you could buy some sets that you don't need to stay built. It could be sets of the type of MOCs you want to build. It's a quick way to get a collection of parts to play and experiment instead of figuring out what you need from BrickLink, Pick A Brick, etc. When I started, I bought sets on sales just to build up a supply of pieces. You can learn from LEGO set building instructions. They are available online for download from LEGO.com. I used them for reference and techniques in some of my MOCs. You can learn from studying other people's MOCs. Depending on your learning style, best could probably be, grab what you have and start trying to make something. Trial and error. Some times, I don't have to exact parts instead of a quick order from BrickLink, I try to make something similar with parts I have on hand. It forces one to be creative and find alternative solutions. If that doesn't work, then BL order or get help from your LUG members.

Rendering your LDD MOC with LDD2POV or BlueRender before posting would make your presentation look much nicer. You can also put LDD in your thread title.

That's a mighty fine intro and photography.

It is 2mm in diameter. It is very loose, enough that it will fall out. You can find length of metal rods in the diameter similiar to the bar element at any hobby shop or online and cut them to size.

Clever. I think you made a "chibi" ship.

Great build. Looks fun to shoot.

There appears to be a BoBS ship index... http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=119648

The Intercity 125 trains arrived in the time frame of late 1970s and early 1980s if I recall. I think it is a fitting style for HST. (HST is Harmonized Sales Tax in Canada, boo.) Love that old school train look.

Nice work. You have the overhang feature in the bow and stern of an Xebec. Interesting choice of color and your ship and captain are color co-ordinated.