Zerobricks

Like a 24 tooth internal? Problem with Lego planetary gears is they are very inefficient unless they are large like those drill bits from Power Miners.

I'd actually love such pieces, since purple happens to be one of my favourite colors But back to the topic, what else are we missing for our gearboxes and how can they possibly top Chiron and Defender's ones?

With every of the last 2 UCS supercars we got some new gearbox elements. I'm hoping for a 24 tooth clutch gear this time. And if it comes, it will probably be in a weird color like green, or such.

I decided to start a new supercar project and after lots of thinkign decided to make an ute just because nobody else made one yet AFAIK. For those who don't know what an ute is, it's when a pickup and a normal or sports car really like each other and end up having a child like this: For this project I set myself the following goals: Unibody construction - The model will have no chassis per-se, the body will be load carrying, something @nicjasno is really good at. Convertible - If you have a sports pickup, why not make it a convertible? This will also force me to make the unibody extremely solid, since there wont be any roof support. Motorized with gearbox - I am using a new high efficiency gearbox idea. Power will be delivered by 4 PF trains motors Realistic suspension - High-gearing solid axle in the back and McPherson suspnsnion in the front Here's the current progress: The gearbox has a total of 4 gears. Wave pieces are used to switch between them. Here's a more detailed view of the setup. As you can see, I used a tilted axle for the overdrive gear: Since the wave selector pieces can't cope with high torque, the gearbox is designed to work with high speed and low torque. That is why it will be powered by the fastest currently available motors - 4 PF train motors spinning at over 2000 RPM generating around 10Ncm of torque. The rear axle is an inverted portal design. It' made to be low as possible so that the bed can be placed nice and low. The axle has a total of 1:12 gear ratio in order to get useful torque from the fast spinning gearbox. Double 24 tooth gears are used in final drive because I expect the car to be quite heavy. So that's the basic idea for now. I will update the topic as I build.

I think having an app that allows you to see the build in 3D would simplify buiding process for technic. But nothing beats physical instructions. Why now have both to complement each other? If you have a problem with physical, you can just check digital and solve your issue.

Just leave it spinning with nothing connected to it. Or use a third party app.

Ah, right, my bad, forgot the motor doesn't drive the 36 directly.

It's called Pulse Width Modulation and it's perfectly normal with proportional control. Here's a link to the article on Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation I get lots of questions regarding motor whine on BuWizz support too, because users are not used to proportional control, since Lego only used bang-bang controllers until now.

Maybe TLG used a 12 and 36 tooth bevel gear combo because 12 on 12 was slipping due to poor support.

I'd say depends on what aspect you want to focus most. If it's functionality, start with axles, gearboxes, engine, etc. If it's realsitic bodywork, start with that first. I also suggest you adjust the scale to the wheels, since those are the hardest to modify.

I contacted Lego costumer support and included a link to my Bricksafe folder with all the photos. All I got was an automated reply that they are sending me a replacement actuator...

Of course you can, just duplicate front axle and use it on the rear. But old CV joints are very weak and have a low working angle. I'd use portal hubs and U joints, but with shorter suspension arms.

8081 uses a simillar suspension, but mine is also driven.

No, power curves can't be copied and pasted for now, sorry.

Yes, each driveline motorized independently.. If your buggy always tilts one side when accelerating, then yes, you have a lot of torque flex.

Yes, left and right wheels are independently driven. I used this setup in most of my new offroaders because it has following advantages: Front and rear wheels can help each other. By changing the speed of each side, I can make the model steer sharper or even rotate on spot - skid steering. Redundancy - if one drive train fails, the model can still move with the second one. Cancelled torque flex - because drivelines spin in opposite direction, there is no effect on suspension.

TLG... If it ain't broken don't fix it.. I understand they cahaged the crosshole shape to be stronger, but why change the teeth? And to think 42099 uses two pair of these on each axle... And 42100 uses 3 or 4 on each track... And nobody noticed? Doesn't any (element) designer test what they design/build?

Pretty sure you could program all the actuator control to self-center when the input is at zero. Just like servo in 42099, just more degrees/rotations.

On close examination the teeth on the 12 tooth gears have also been changed. The axlehole is also changed to a solid, full shaped + shape. The change on the 12 tooth gears doesn't seem to affect meshing - tested with new and old 20 tooth gear. I changed all my new 20 tooth gears for old ones in my tiger 6x6 and the driveline works much smoother now. Thanks for the great tip @legolijntje, I will use the new 20 tooth gears only as bewel gears and use old ones for normal meshing. EDIT: Clutch 20 tooth gears are of a new type and have friction, especially if meshed with a clutch 16 gear.

Looking from the side it seems the new 20 tooth gears have thicker, more angular and less rounded straight teeth.

I just compared the old open crosshole design with the new slit one and the older one do indeed run smoother.

With mines it sometimes seems like the edges of the teeth are trying to grind sideways into the beams.

I had same feeling with 42069. It feels like a MOC. Some techniques like a brick used to achieve the quarter gap in rear bumper and the use of studded add-ons really feel "unofficial".

How about this design I came up a week ago, but forgot to post it: I simply offset the driveshafts allowing for more gear combinations without need for new clutch gears. The pulley wheels with ball pins are there to transfer power over the slight offset. The 4 gear ratios achieved are: 20:12 = 1,67 20:16 = 1,25 16:16 = 1 16:20 = 0,8 (overdrive) Because you can switch the order of gears as much as you want to, you can easily use the wave selectors. I think you can even upgrade the gearbox to work with 6 gears.

Thank your for the praise. The color combiantion seems to be quite controversial, some love it, some hate it. I went to test the model outside today and managed to make it powerslide/drift on glass and asphalt: