Zerobricks

It seems lower, yes. Can you post a photo of steering mechanism and hubs?

Here's the maximum steering angle:

Why do you even have to reverse the driveline's direction?

My previous model uesd Corvette's front wheels with the steering point being just next to the wheel edge. But the problem wasn't in the steering pivot point, it was in too much power to only rear wheels.

What angle do you get? By the way I updated the LDD file few days ago, while rebuilding the model.

I think 18+ content is demonitized by deafult.

For an exhibition I made a small Corvette-scaled car with an RC motor powering rear wheels. Powered by Buwizz, that model turned to be totally uncontrollable, with epic amount of oversteer at low speed and underster at high speed. So I got an idea. Why not make a 4x4 version of a miniature car? My worries were that the added complexity needed to power the front wheels will increase the complexity, weight and reduce the performance... But I decided to give it a shot anyway. The first version used a chain drive to front the front wheels from the rear axle, but that was soon scrapped due to the poor strength of the chain. So after replacing the chain drive with an axial driveline, I came up with this little, yet powerful model. The front wheels are an older 49,6 x 28VR type which use softer rubber than the rear ones. This way the car tends to oversteer less: In the rear DUAL 49,5 X 20 are used to give it as much traction area as possible: The bodywork can easily be removed to expose a torque-tube sytled chassis and a simple interrior: A servo motor steers the front wheels via a rack. Maximum steering angle is around 22,5 degrees: 3x11 panels are used as the main chassis, giving the model very high rigidity, while keeping the weight low: According to LDD the model is made of less than 400 bricks, less than to the upcoming 42109: The front wheels are powered directly by the rear axle via 20:12----12:20 gear sequence. There are no differentials, since the model reaches high enough speeds for wheels to understeer and slip in the corners anyway. Technical specs: Length: 25 cm Width: 14 cm Height: 10 cm Weight: 575 g Theoretical top speed: ~18 km/h Even with 4x4 drive, the racer still powerslides all 4 wheels even in just the normal mode, as you can see in the quick and drity slo-mo gif I made: I was pleasantly suprised by the amount of control you get with the added FWD. No longer am I at the mercy of the rear wheels to stop the car from crashing into a wall. Accelreation is of course much better, making this one of the fastest accelerating models I made. Oversteer has been reduced, but there is still plenty of power left to powerslide the model with all 4 wheels spinning. Stay tuned for a proper video showing off the performance soon.

I have the same issue, building models and abusing them outside in the dirt takes a heavy toll on the parts and I usually barely manage to cover the pieces. Buying new sets just from Youtube revenue for me is out of the question, especially with the current inflated prices. Hope there will be a third category - general audiences added to the option, as the law seems to support it, at least according to the Youtube lawyer guy.

What an interesting project! I like the idea behind powering up the legs and relasing them instead of powering them directly. What if you used an articulated joint in the center for steering?

Android supports up to 7 Bluetooth devices at once, and IOS supports more, at least 8 on my Iphone 5.

The simple battery box will be same shape, so you can interchange it for the hub. I suspect it will be able to power 2 motors independently.

I suggest you try old app and see if that works.

Looking at the diff again, it seems to have ridges, so you can engage a gearbox catch inside. That would mean it can be locked and that it's probably a normal open diff and not a Torzen.

It's available at Lego shop: https://www.lego.com/en-si/product/app-controlled-top-gear-rally-car-42109

I got plenty of flat ones too, but I will need some angular ones for sides too.

I need to get me some grey panels! getting the shape right should be easy enough though.

Pontoons in 42105 have a hole inside, allowing the 13L rack to pass through and lower the underwater wing thingies.

It's not so much bigger than the current gear, 28 vs 24 teeth. And it can be meshed in 2 directions, so it's a universal diff.

I think everything will be sealed like 42099's hubs. Basically you stick the red gear on it and insert the axles. That's all.

Funny enough, I built a same scaled car using for an exhibition last week which used 1 RC motor, directly driving same sized wheels from the faster output. To top things off, I used a BuWizz and a servo for steering, which left me with space for one seat in the interrior. The thing was impossible to control, anything over 30% of power would cause wheelspin and instant spinouts. And of course it crashed A LOT, damaging the front panels. What I'm saying is while fast, powerfull models are fun and all, the bricks take the toll, either from crashing or due to the increased wear and tear of the drivegear parts. I think every Technic builder is faimilliar with grey dust forming... Well the dust forms faster, the more power you are sending through a drivetrain. There's only so much speed or torque a Lego part can handle before it breaks, or starts melting. And from this perspective I understand why TLG is keeping the motors as powerful as they are. Anything more powerful can damage bricks, or kids.

I imagine it will be lubricated the the 42099 hubs. KEEP IT AWAY FROM MUD

I just noticed it has 3 seats. I think that's a first for technic?

While it's a nice crane, I doubt it was an inspiration, since it was posted only a year ago. AFAIK designers need a bit more time to design, test and optimize the sets.

Not to sound harsh, but if assembling diffs is too hard, than maybe you have an issue... And if a 9 year old that can't assemble a differential is a reason behind a new design, than Idiocracy indeed is a documentary.

Must be a 80's or 90's designer But I actually like they made it as small as possible. Well...making it 3 studs wide would be even more impressive, but you get my catch.