Zerobricks

The PF battery boxes do not provide the power BuWizz motors require for maximum performance, same issue as with using RC buggy motors with PF. The PF battery boxes have some 800 mA current limit, while BuWizz has 4.0 amp limit for 2.0 and 7.0 amp limit for 3.0. And with BuWizz you don't need the PF receiver.

Also I suggest you use the biscuit piece instead of the 5L beam. This will keep the gear from slipping out sideways.

Brilliant discovery! I think some smooth, slik fillament should work even better.

I'm usually responding to support with technical issues and I try to respond within a day. BUT certain specific things I can't answer like function implementation dates and such are transfered to other members.

Interesting, though I have a question. Why are you gearing up the motors with planetary hubs, only to gear them down again in the axles? Why not just use direct drive , or better still just place the motors inside the axles, thereby removing lots of complexity?

Looks good, though I would love to see more photos of the driveline and such.

Currently I have some 5,5 studs under the axles and 6,5 studs under the gearbox. I'm also thinking of raising the egarbox by a stud and using red differentials as a high gear.

Thanks. It's slightly front heavy, that's why it has 6 shock absorbers in the front. The only drawback of the new transmission is that's all exposed. I'm thinking of adding some panels to protect the transmission, raising the suspension and making the rear axle also pendular.

That should be an official B model, it just seems to fit together so perfectly. Well done! P.S. nice idea using the extra hose as a railing and the valve as a panel.

So to continue testing, I upgraded the light 4x4 with 2 more motors, stronger differentials and a reinforced driveline: The front axle is still free to sway, though i did install some limiters to keep the suspension going too far up and knocking out the steering links: No space for a bed in the back, due to the motors which are placed in a V shape, exactly as in my Acura NXT: Another detail shared with Acura NXT is the gearbox, though this one has a higher gear ratio and fits perfectly with the motors inside a 11x15 frame: And how does it perform? Compared to the light, this medium heavy model gained some 200 additional parts and around 250 grams, so it weighs around 1 kilogram. So, the power went up by a factor of 2x, while the weight increased "only" 25 %, further proving that the more motors, the higher the power to weight ratio. Speaking about that, it increased from 400 grams/motor to some 250 grams/motor, which is nearing the Wildcat 6x6's 208 grams/motor. Outside performance is quite good, it has no issues running in high gear (unlike the light version) and is capable of doing jumps with ease, though not quite at the same level (literally) as Wildcat 6x6. Here's a comparison gif of both models on the same jump: You can see the medium offroader managed to get the front wheels off the ground slightly, but not the rear ones. That might be due to a longer suspension travel compared to the Wildcat 6x6. Also another thing to remember is that Wildcat 6x6 is much longer, so it had more room to push itself up the hill. I think I will do a video on this topic, where I can go more into the details of the models and what I've learned from actually building and comparing the various models.

Thanks for the support, my friend. I actually feel like rebuilding that model just to compare the progress over all the years side by side!

If you want a smooth and reliable perpendicular drive/gerabox, I suggest you use 28 tooth bevel gears, preferably inside a 7x11 frame. They can't slip anywhere. I'm using same combination with a 28 bevel gear and differential in a 3 kg heavy model, has never slipped and it runs really smooth even when going up 45 degree slopes.

Sounds like your motor is in a short, instantly turning off the battery box when plugged in.

Was browsing old folders and found lots of unused footage of my first successful offroader which used brick-built portal hubs. So i decided to edit it together and to creake a From The Archives kind of a video:

Here's what's happening in my opinion. A while ago LEGO started introducing a softer material hence many connector's pinholes were reinforced along with parts like ball joint, etc... I think they now have an issue with bevel gears because they are softer and easier to skip than before. That is why they are redesigning all the gears to fit into 2 categories: straight gears which use proper sized teeth for best optimal mesh new bevel gears like the ones in Ferrari's differential - I believe we will see many more of such types pop-up in the future Also new turntable using 6 clips instead of 4 can be explained by a softer material used and usage case like slewing in the upcoming crane.

Don't forget female CV counterparts.

Here's an idea for an ungeared, yet strong axle I just came up with: Basically it uses the new, strong CV joints inside the normal hubs for a direct transfer of power from the differential to the wheels. I think Ferrari's new differential would be the most suitable here. The axle can fit almost all wheels with exception of the Defender's rims. For that the steering arms have to be moved by a stud away.

Since this model was built in 2021, those gears were not yet available. I think it may be worth a try, they should run a but smoother.

Exactly. And I used the same technique in Spano GTA and in the Speedbreakers. Bigger gears are simply, smoother, more efficient and they can carry much higher loads.

I miss service packs... I think they would be a really great reintroduction to bring us specialized parts in neat corresponding packs of parts. For example like the above mentioned Ferrari's differential, 12 tooth bevel gears and the drive gears. Or gearbox elements with the 16, 20 clutch gears, wave selector, driving ring and a 3L long smooth axle joiners Or, the new CV joints pack , bigger CV joint pack which would have the female part, short male version, long male version and a geared planetary hub Why not also have a frame pack which includes all the frames Etc... One can dream, I guess, but it might be worth to propose to the LEGO group?

Thank you for the praise. Regarding CV joint, yes the front ones are one stud out of center, that is why the 5L levers holding the suspension are 2 studs apart in order to leave enough space for the drive axle to move sideway. The movement though is minimal, less than half a stud and does not affect the pulling out that much. To reduce the possiblity of axle pulling out, I even used a 3L axle with a stop, the additional length of the stop pushes it slightly further into the differential. The main reason why the 3L axle slips out of the differential is due to the white wedge I used to keep the differential from slipping. Since the differential is lightly pushed towards the bevel gear and in one direction, it leaves just enough space for the axle to slip out at that side at high loads, damaging the 12 tooth gear. I really wish the 12 tooth bevel gears would be redesigned to get rid of the inner cut, but I know it's required in order to fit in the bottom of a plate with a hole.

I have a smillar experience, i think it's simple down to how you drive it. If you're using a 28 tooth gear as mentioned before, it will of course have a smoother and more efficient transfter of power than a 12 tooth gear. Generally the bigger the gears you use in the driveline, the more efficient and smooth rolling they are. Yes, the 12 tooth gear has to carry the entire load, while spinning much faster than when using a bigger gear which needs to spin slower, therebye having lower fuction. The yellow diffs can be locked, the gray casing is still the same.

From my experience the 42109's differential works best when driven by a 28 tooth gear bevel gear inside the 7x11 frame (perpendicular). When using a 12 tooth bevel gear to drive it ((perpendicular)) it's more likely to skip than even the old 28 tooth differential.

Talk about plain hubs, I do hope and expect LEGO to release a version that can accept the new larger CV joint without any gearing. This would open up option to be used for faster models in conjunction with the new differential from the Ferrari. For now I make due with using new CV joints inside the normal hubs, though it's not a perfect solution and requires a second inner joint.

After building the 1:8 scale Spano GTA, I wanted to make something more compact, yet even more functional for the BuWizz camp 2021, which got postopned to 2022. The rules behind this model stated to build a 1:10 scale representation of a real existing car, which has to have a working gearbox, fake engine and working steering wheel. After researching different types of super and hypercars, I chose the Acura/Honda NSX since it had several good pros compared to the more famous brands like Ferrari or Lamborghini: The real car has a smaller profile, which means a lower weight It uses a hybrid AWD system, which would come in handy for the LEGO model for accelerating and braking on all wheels Engine powering is a V6, which doesn't take as much space as the typical V8, V10 or even V12 Since it's a less known supercar, my LEGO version could be the first one in such scale I used a simillar technique as with Spano GTA where I imported the 3D model into the Lego Digital Designer and used it as a 3D reference. Using this technique I ended up with a really close representation, and it really shows: As you can see in the gif above, not only does the model look very good, it's also full of functionality: 4x BuWizz motors for driving All wheel drive 2 Speed gearbox Working fake V6 coupled directly to the drive motors Working steering wheel 2x BuWizz 3.0 for control Double wishbone suspension on all wheels Dimensions and weight ended up as following: Length: 45 cm Width: 20 cm (without mirrors) Height: 12.5 cm Weight: cca 1,5 kg Here is how the model's underside looks like, drive motors are driving two independent gearboxes in order to evenly spread the mechanical load. This kind of a setup also cancels out any side forces on the central drive axle, thereby reducing friction and wear: In order to cram all the powertrain components in the rear the drive motors are placed in a V shape. This way there is just enough space between them for a functional V6 engine and a PU medium motor which switches the gearbox: Thanks to the compact powerline and driveline, the interrior is very spacious and both seats are almost 1:8 scale sized, measuring 6 studs wide. There are even stoppers and interrior details on the doors themselves: ž The end performance of the model is higher than what I expected, there is enough torque to freespin all 4 wheels, jump over ramps and top speed in high gear is almost 20 km/h! You can see how well it performs the video: To conclude, this is my first 1:10 scale supercar which also ended up extremely compact, functional, robust and good looking. I also think a 1:10 scale may be beneficial when it comes to reliability and robustness, since models tend to weight half the weight of their 1:8 counterparts while still incorporating a simillar level of functionality and details. Having said that, this will not be my last 1:10 supercar and I think for the next one I will ditch the gearbox and simply drive the wheels directly from the motors without any weak differentials.