Jump to content
Service Notice / Slow Site speed due a DDoS attack ×

gyenesvi

Eurobricks Dukes
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,396

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by gyenesvi

  1. gyenesvi
    It's not the same approach I believe. Only printing a diff (which could itself be an official lego part) still keeps the spirit of lego that you can combine stuff. Printing a whole axle looses some of the essence of lego.
  2. gyenesvi
    This is pretty nice, I have been experimenting in this direction as well, with some similarities (like new CV joints and omitting the regular differential), but quite results different overall. Have you built a complete chassis around it with motorization, and a body on it? Because that's where it gets tough :) There's not much longitudinal space in the middle left, furthermore the new CV joints cannot pass between two L motors. Also your axles are quite high built, the front springs are very high positioned, so if you'd put the motors in the front, that will also be sitting quite high, and the bonnet will also have to be high. So curious how this becomes a complete car! Well the good news is that @efferman's 2 module wide differentials perfectly fit these builds :) I have 3D printed 2 of them and I'm experimenting with incorporating into such axles. It has an accompanying 12T spur gear with a 2L axle printed together, and it's just the right length for the CV joint here on the incoming shaft side to fit nicely. There's one catch though. The axles that go out of the differential towards the wheels need to be on a half stud offset, because the tiny gears inside the diff are half stud inner than regularly. Because of this, it is hard to use with the new CV joints (2L axle is short, 2L is too long), but it works well with the old ones, because those have a 1.5 stud axle hole in them, so a 3L axle fits perfectly.
  3. gyenesvi
    Interesting, good to know the limits of these parts. Wonder when I get to this point with some of my hubs.. Not sure what you mean by that, those hubs are manufactured as a single enclosed piece, and they are the strongest lego wheel mounts in existence I believe. Not sure, maybe if you keep it you'll just continue destroying more hubs.. I like this direction, also, that would make it easier for us to reproduce your models :D
  4. gyenesvi
    Nice rebuild and demonstration, good old memories! Nicely working mechanisms, I don't remember how it was with the original, did it also have 2 motors, one with the gearbox? I only remember the usage of the micro motor. Great use of the spike motor as a modern replacement :) Also, I like the light bricks in the back instead of the fiber optics. Maybe one thing, the wing looks a bit messy where the panels overlap. Maybe just leaving out the top panels would result in a cleaner build, even if with more gaps. Great work!
  5. gyenesvi
    Thanks for the explanation, this is something I expected after reading up a bit on how PWM control works. Now I understand why lego chose this mode of control for its servo, because it needs to be able to control all motors the same way. Thanks @pow and @2GodBDGlory for the experiences, so I gather from the discussion that this might work for a single RC or XL motor or even probably 2L motors running from a 2S lipo or from a 9V battery even if controlled by an ESC. Those should not draw too much current, right? The main idea was actually to use the geekservo in smaller builds.
  6. gyenesvi
    Hmm, thanks guys for the warning, but there's something that I don't understand. Why would such a scenario put higher current to the PF connectors than they were designed for and than when they are used with a PF system or with a Buwizz for example? Is it that the ESC can control the motors in such a manner that they draw more current, while the Lego / Buwizz system does not? If yes why?
  7. gyenesvi
    Thanks for the info, so the Geekservo is connected directly to the receiver, but the Buggy motor needs the ESC to be inserted in between to properly control it if I get it right. I wonder why the servo does not need a separate controller. Anyway, it's great that the Buggy motor can be connected by changing the cable ending. I guess it would be possible to make a converter wire with one end as a lego connector, the other as a RC connector in order to alleviate the need to cut the wires of the Buggy motor. Would this also work with a PF M/L/XL motor?
  8. gyenesvi
    This looks better in red than in black :) Can you give some details about the electronics? I'd like to try Geekservo for steering, and I assume I need RC components for that, what I have yet to figure out is how to control the propulsion motor in that case? Is it just that you need to connect some output of the receiver to the motor by connecting some cables? Or is there some other component needed for converting signals? For example, I have been comparing the Geekservo and the Lego servo, and it seems to me that they are using different PWM methods, and hence they cannot be simply mixed and matched. Is it simpler for the plain DC motors?
  9. gyenesvi
    Thanks for the response, maybe if you could try to urge them a bit that might be more effective than us trying to do so by messaging.. It would also be nice to understand what the reason is for not communicating clearly. That would release some stress from the community members. Also, I guess many complaints could go away if the FW was fixed finally. Once that's in good shape, the community could build on it in 3rd party apps, not needing to wait for the Buwizz team to add features to their own app.
  10. gyenesvi
    It's been more than a month now and I didn't get any reply to my second message to the Buwizz team either. Not sure what's going on here, but support is pretty lacking..
  11. gyenesvi
    What I did with my springs after getting them pretty dirty by driving an RC car in dust for an hour is I took them out of the model, submerged them in lukewarm soapy water for 1-2 minutes while compressing and releasing them under water several times with my hands to let the water get on the inside and clean the dirt. Then I took them out and wiped the water carefully off with paper towels. I believe this way the springs won't corrode as they are not left in water for a long time. After drying them, I applied some silicone grease, again compressing them by hand to spread the grease. They are moving pretty smooth now. I guess this would not work with linear actuators though, as you cannot dry the inside with paper towels. But does it really get that dirty on the inside in the first place? Maybe it just enough to extend them fully and clean and dry the metal part that way?
  12. gyenesvi
    That's understandable, but maybe others can work on the app side :) But for that the communication protocol is needed. Is that documented somewhere? I'd still be interested in your opinion about connecting Xbox Series Controllers. Given that they support BLE, is there a theoretical chance/obstacle that they could be connected directly to a hub with Pybricks?
  13. gyenesvi
    Yes, that was my question, thanks. Better than nothing, though it would be nicer if the perpendicular one was also usable; a bit more space under it would be appreciated. Maybe in the next softer version :) I guess this part is already finalized and produced.
  14. gyenesvi
    Yes, those are very good examples of things we need! And I have a bunch more in my head, things that would be quite general purpose. And I simply don't understand why they don't get at least some priority over aesthetic elements and such. I actually bought a bunch of 8L axles with stop to cut them to length 6/7 length. And a few new CV joint female parts to cut them to length 2..
  15. gyenesvi
    I couldn't figure out what that part does, but now I get it, nice mechanism, thanks for the explanation (though my model does not have space for it).
  16. gyenesvi
    Thanks for the great illustrative images! Indeed, that's simpler than I thought, at least for this case when there is no drivetrain (though I assume that a drive axle can run through the leaf springs in the middle). I like that the leaf spring is positioned quite low with this design, it would even leave room for a linkage based steering on the top! But I am more interested in the driven scenario in your second image. I imagined it exactly like that, my question is that when the axle articulates, it has to tilt relative to the leaf spring itself, which remains stationary in the chassis. Is there room for that tilt under the leaf spring? Or is it mostly just distorting a bit within the tolerances of the pieces? Although typically vehicles with leaf spring suspension don't need that much articulation, in some cases it would be handy :) In case of your design, only minimal tilt is possible because of the vertical pins, mostly a bit of distortion, right? Also, I wonder how your design would be incorporated into the second driven axle? I'm sure you tried that..
  17. gyenesvi
    Yes, that is a practical thing to have, I had the same problem in my latest MOC (which will be presented soon), not only does it generate some unnecessary friction, but also the engine is running so fast that it is actually generating plastic dust (2x Buwizz motors for drive). Anyway, I don't get how that's implemented with that simple pin, can you elaborate on that? In my model I had to remove an axle to disconnect the fake engine..
  18. gyenesvi
    These new panels are great, they surely will open up lots of new possibilities on smaller scales. Not into these kind of sets, but might buy one just for the parts. I am hoping that after seeing such a boom in new panels, TLG will also dedicate resources on new structural parts as well, like new connector types to facilitate denser small scale builds.
  19. gyenesvi
    Indeed, the design is pretty neat, and I love the adder mechanism for the drivetrain that allows the engine to run separately and speed up when the model is moving! Great detail! I like the front suspension too, and the door opening/locking mechanisms are also cool additions.
  20. gyenesvi
    This is pretty cool! Not only does it look fantastic, but it also seems interesting on the inside. I like the placement of the electronics, and the way you incorporated the ball joints into the suspension without a negative caster angle at the front! Is it only using a panhard rod to stabilize the axles for sideways movement (I see it at the back, but guessing there's one on the front too, furthermore I don't see any suspension links on the sides)? I also wonder how the steering is implemented, I guess it's the central L motor which is off the axle. Also, I like the way the mudguards are built, I might use that idea :)
  21. gyenesvi
    Thanks for the info. Yeah, it's not trivial how a leaf spring piece should be designed and incorporated into builds. I have been thinking much about that from a medium/small off-roader perspective, but it's not easy to mount them on an axle. Actually this cada piece makes sense to me, I never really understood how you'd want to incorporate yours :) Also, the axle mounting point does not seem to leave too much room for axle articulation. Or is there enough space for a cross beam to tilt under it?
  22. gyenesvi
    That's really cool, I already want some :) That seems quite stiff isn't it? It seems to be optimized for larger builds, like over 1-2 kg (because you need to put multiple of these). Not really for smaller off-roaders, but more for trucks, right?
  23. gyenesvi
    That little mower is so cool, I love that both the engine and the blades are working! Just been thinking about you a few moments ago, I when I saw a tractor alternate of the Zetros.. :)
  24. gyenesvi
    Beautiful model as always! Great details, I love the use of the creator style with the technic interior. Nowadays I like Broncos a lot, both old and the latest one. Also, I like the scale, those wheels are great size. Interesting construction for the front axle! I am also working on a 11-wide front axle for the same wheel size now, but I want to keep the servo off the axle and make it work through linkage.
  25. gyenesvi
    Interesting idea.. do you mean replacing the FW on an existing product just like for the lego hub, or team up with the providers to create the FW to be compatible from the start? Back to existing controllers. Wikipedia says that the latest Xbox Series controllers (since 2020) do support BLE: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xbox_Wireless_Controller#Third_revision_(2020) They seem to be fairly accessible out there, I have bought one second hand for $40 just for controlling lego models (through phone for now). The latest PlayStation 5 controllers also support Bluetooth 5.1, which includes BLE according to my understanding: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DualShock#DualSense Have you looked into these ones? If only these major ones were supported that would already be a big step forward. Would it be possible to build up a bluetooth connection to these using Pybricks FW on all hubs? I know that decoding their communication protocol is another thing.. Does that seem like a possible way (I really cannot judge), or would these also require replacing the firmware (if a BLE connection is possible)? Another thing I wanted to ask as it's not clear to me. Can Pybricks be controlled from a phone like the original lego FW can? Or is it just for running programs on it directly?
×
×
  • Create New...