Aurorasaurus

sailboat?

They have extra resistance when running because more surface is in contact with other parts. Also, at least on the 12t gear, the non bevel version actually has slightly longer teeth. So if you use it with a steering rack you ever so slightly reduce the slack because it has that little bit less space to move.

Inspired by the mad max ripsaw from fury road, I've been working on a muscle car with tracks. I haven't built anything with tracks for years, so I'm aiming for robustness and fun rather than realism and complexity. For that reason, I have no suspension on the tracks, just a tension system which can also adjust the stance of the vehicle, operated by linear actuators. Originally I was going to have suspension, but I found the tracks were coming off when not even driving.. I don't fully expect to finish this, but it's been fun to just play around with a silly concept so far. I'm thinking about a 2 speed gearbox, I want to try use the planetary hub in a gearbox with dual clutch rings so the hub doesn't cause extra resistance when not in use, not sure yet though... Also, I made a studio file for the bodywork if anyone wants it: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-222028/Aurorasaurus/offroad-muscle-car-body/#details Thanks for reading- I'm feeling a bit shakey about this build so some ideas/encouragement would be appreciated...

I have a project that could work for the competition, but I dont know if my motivation to finish it will last so i feel bad about making a post then not finishing it.

You will have much better results connecting via a wire. I would also recommend building something to attach your phone to the controller. My preference is for the phone below the controller so its easier to move around without the phone swinging around heaps. This will stop the phone screen from accidentally doing things in your pocket and the model going rogue.

I think its glow in the dark, not lime. Having glow in the dark cars is super realistic! Haven't you ever seen an entire car glowing at night before!?

I LOVE TPU, I've tried it for all sorts of things and its just a fantastic material. It's incredibly tough, and good for panels since it will bend back after taking a knock. It prints slowly and sorta messily, though. I would not recommend using TPU to make your own tires though, its slippery like normal plastic, not grippy like rubber. I tried making TPU steering links once, that didn't work... I've used it for wheel rims though, which works fairly well. Just be aware that the ridges caused by layer lines act like sandpaper on your wheel hubs. I think with TPU this effect is less, but its still worth considering. TPU liftarms for flexible roll cages seems like a good application, if you have the patience to print lots of beams.

Is your controller connected to the phone with a wire?

Yep. And be disconnected otherwise I think.

Has anyone got any ideas where I can find the instructions for this set? Or do we just have to wait for it to be on Lego's site.

Good luck with this. I recommend you to do instructions for a couple other models (maybe smaller ones) before you start on the instructions for this, if you dont intend to do multiple re-releases and updated versions of this model. I've made instructions a few times and theres no shortcut to getting it right. I recommend you to use lots and lots of submodels when you're building, and also convert small ones to callouts to keep the page length from getting out of hand. Also, 6 steps on one page is fine on a big screen, but less is better for people on a laptop, phone, ipad IMO. I guess what I'm trying to say is, if this will be a one off masterpiece, take the time to learn how to make good instructions first.

This made me smile, I never expected to see miku on this forum! Maybe you can mount the leek on some 2l rubber pieces with 2 axle holes so it has a less robotic feel to its movement.

Still no 4 long liftarm.... I also cant believe we dont have a 32t gear, its such a good size.

I think it doesn't fit because of the extra half stud of the pin hole, which collides with some of the bracing parts for the axle that holds the wheel.

I have the ultimate solution for you, but you might not like it... https://bambulab.com/en https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/personal Come to the dark side ;)

I like this, its super fun and looks great to play with. The part usage of the hockey spring for the grabbers is fantastic, I'm really impressed. And the video was a pleasure to watch, I'm glad you built a little scene around the crane. Fantastic work, it looks like a lot of fun!

I think it's better to keep it simple and sturdy than try make it accurate. Its a motorised set.

Maybe stacked tiles would give a more convincing illusion then, the lines where they join could be more convincing than a flat plate. Or if you get custom stickers that works too.

Looking good! Maybe you can use grill pieces instead of flat tiles though?

This part is an illegal build, its probably a different build. Nice work everywhere else, thanks! Edit: Actually- it can be built like that if the dbg pins are pushed out, then the lbg angle connector dropped in, then the dbg pins pushed in. but I don't think thats likely.

Impressive! I it a lot, especially the stripe on the body. Is there any reason you are using bevel gears instead of the new non bevel ones in the drivetrain? I think there could be some slight efficiency gains with the new non bevel ones. Nice trick with the steering and moving bevel gear too.

Awesome work @R0Sch! Can you share a photo of the underside/provide the file you have so far? I want to take a good look at this one...

I recall it being used for wing flapping in a bionicle set. Cool to see it used again.

Honestly, I don't get it either... Not having external wires to break is good. But having a presumably non replacable battery? Seriously not cool. How about a system with plugs like the 9v system so wires breaking is not an issue... Doesn't seem that hard to me. Maybe wireless motors is the next big thing though.