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Aurorasaurus

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by Aurorasaurus

  1. This one isn't available- believe me I've tried pushing for it :) You can reverse engineer a chunk of the important mechanical parts from still parts in the videos. The front can be improved using audi hubs and cv joints. I made a model "borrowing" the rear axle concept/design, you can take a look at that on my rebrickable for free, maybe it can help you.
  2. It's a little hard to tell from the photo, are those LBG or white? Buwizz motors from the past are LBG... those ones look white. Very odd.
  3. This is the best option by far. More force than the other options, more precision, IMO better form factor, and cheaper. The only downside is wrapping your head around rc electronics is a little daunting at first.
  4. The original lego one is proportional when given a correct input, none of the other ones are. (unless a new one came out recently that does- but I doubt it)
  5. I use 95A TPU because it prints well and is common. Depending on what rim style you're hoping to use, you can probably get a decent amount of damping right down to no damping at all. If you designed the spokes of the rim in an arc maybe it would allow the outer circle of the rim to move around during landings... But really, I think softer tires will be a better solution. If you're using rc tires, I'd suggest just gluing them to the rim and forgetting about it. I'm curious to see what you come up with, keep me posted if you will.
  6. I have an in-between solution which you may prefer: the tape trick. Place a small square of tape over the 3 pinholes on the wheel you will use, then just push the wheel on like normal. It will take more force but will stay on very well, I used this on rc models jumping and drifting and it never failed me. Cheap semi transparent whiteish tape commonly used for paper and stuff is a little bit stretchy, so I find it works best to use this kind. Plain old clear stuff works okay but not so good.
  7. I have taken it apart now, but yes, I'm pretty sure it will work.
  8. I built a recreation of this model using friction pins and it worked very poorly. The frictionless ones are important to keep everything running smoothly.
  9. @Samolot Your first image is gigantic and loads very very slowly. It's way above the allowed size. The truck looks great, I'm looking forward to your video to see how it runs.
  10. If you think about the typical direction of force on that part, it will be holding it together. A pin would be fine. But also, you could just use an axle with stop and a few bushes and it would definitely not come off.
  11. This isn't the clean solution I'm assuming you're looking for- but you can add a real photo with arrows at the appropriate building stage to show where the cables go.
  12. Actually I found mine could go further than 90 degrees. If you can't get it I can make a video, perhaps mine are an older mould variant or something.
  13. I just tried on one of mine and found that rotating the two halves all the way to the end while trying to pull them apart gently worked and they came apart easily.
  14. Off topic, sorry, it was too perfect.
  15. Actually- that is the real thing. I thought it was a render at first too but it isn't.
  16. I believe you can use partdesigner and import stl's into that, then generate a studio part from partdesigner. You can add connection points in partdesigner too.
  17. Ones from set 42160 with the larger cv design that was introduced in 42099.
  18. Muscle Car Ripsaw Functions: - drive - working v8 engine - front and rear winches - nothing else, this model is a lazy failure B)
  19. Not illegal- physically impossible! Off the physics jail with you!
  20. I have "finished" this thing- as in I'm no longer willing to do anything to it but take it apart. In the end, the v8 and winches worked, and nothing else.
  21. This might not be what you're looking for, but if you're up for a bit of DIY you can probably make your own air tank. At least in my country the petrol stations have air pumps for your tires, so you could fill some tanks to a good pressure and maybe it would last long enough? It would be quieter than a compressor for sure, but probably too much work. As for fitting that to the lego system without having too much pressure and breaking things, I don't know...
  22. I like it a lot! It would be cool to see it integrated into a build, perhaps two linked treehouses? I suppose it wouldn't be technic then, but.. eh... Also- its nice to see someone else from auckland building with technic!
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