Aurorasaurus

If you think about the typical direction of force on that part, it will be holding it together. A pin would be fine. But also, you could just use an axle with stop and a few bushes and it would definitely not come off.

This isn't the clean solution I'm assuming you're looking for- but you can add a real photo with arrows at the appropriate building stage to show where the cables go.

Pin with towball would be my suggestion.

Actually I found mine could go further than 90 degrees. If you can't get it I can make a video, perhaps mine are an older mould variant or something.

I just tried on one of mine and found that rotating the two halves all the way to the end while trying to pull them apart gently worked and they came apart easily.

Off topic, sorry, it was too perfect.

Actually- that is the real thing. I thought it was a render at first too but it isn't.

I believe you can use partdesigner and import stl's into that, then generate a studio part from partdesigner. You can add connection points in partdesigner too.

Ones from set 42160 with the larger cv design that was introduced in 42099.

Muscle Car Ripsaw Functions: - drive - working v8 engine - front and rear winches - nothing else, this model is a lazy failure B)

Not illegal- physically impossible! Off the physics jail with you!

I have "finished" this thing- as in I'm no longer willing to do anything to it but take it apart. In the end, the v8 and winches worked, and nothing else.

This might not be what you're looking for, but if you're up for a bit of DIY you can probably make your own air tank. At least in my country the petrol stations have air pumps for your tires, so you could fill some tanks to a good pressure and maybe it would last long enough? It would be quieter than a compressor for sure, but probably too much work. As for fitting that to the lego system without having too much pressure and breaking things, I don't know...

I like it a lot! It would be cool to see it integrated into a build, perhaps two linked treehouses? I suppose it wouldn't be technic then, but.. eh... Also- its nice to see someone else from auckland building with technic!

Those gears skip even when properly braced... I really hope that those gears won't be transmitting any load.

How are your skills with soldering/electronics? You could probably cut the wire that connects to the powered up hub and try re-attach a new power functions plug to it. Maybe you could also swap the plug end of the monster motor to a powered up plug. From my experience, lego or lego compatible motors use the middle two wires of the PF wire, so you should join those 2 to the motor leads on the PU plug. Good luck! Also, you could just buy a different exchange/adapter wire. I have bought 1 and made 2 myself, and one just doesn't work for no clear reason.

I've made some progress on my... whatever this thing is. I solved the issue of the buwizz motors having different speeds by using good old PF XL motors instead. The power from the XL motors goes into knob gears, then to the tracks. But between the motors is a differential, for driving the fake engine. I made a colorful recreation of it, since the actual one is obscured under panels and built in all black. Notice the bracing on the sides of the 5x7 frames connecting into the bodywork, which is acting as a structural element. Then, since this vehicle is already a bit stupid, I added a rear winch! Additionally, the entire underside of this vehicle is paneled up, meaning it could be good for offroading... if it didn't use tracks... oh well! Anyway, I'm just having a bit of fun building something wacky now. Next up: power for the front winch, fake engine install, working steering wheel?

I'm really curious what you come up with because I've been tinkering with the same problem. I tried using a diff between the tracks (with one tracks axle direction inverted) feeding a clutch and then the steering wheel with a self centering mechanism. But I got bored before getting anything reliable. I hope you can make something work!

Well I personally think that TLG is doing us an enormous favour by even allowing mere mortals like us to give them money! They're being so generous and all of you are being terribly rude to our benevolent corporate overlords.

No actually, all my other motors are tied up in two suspiciously identical trophy trucks...

Your tracked dumper models reminded me of this photo:

I think ferrari in particular are particularly stuck-up about protecting their brand, don't they sue youtubers? Hopefully other brands don't do the same.

I've been away from this for a little while, but here's an update on why. The left track always runs slower than the right track so it doesn't drive in a straight line. I checked everything moves freely and swapped the tracks around, but I think the problem is the planetary hubs or the buwizz motors. Has anyone got any ideas what to do? I'm thinking xl motors instead of buwizz ones...

I'm building this set from my collection and 3d printing the new parts I don't have. Here's some observations while building: The seat inside is TERRIBLE. It's the worst seat I've ever come across in a lego vehicle. It's not symmetrical, and its reclined so far back you could fall asleep in it, if it wasn't tilted in such a way that you would always fall out! Front suspension is pretty bad, the shocks are mounted in such a way that they want to buckle while compressing, not great! Also, a lot of half stud thick liftarms are used which I personally don't like, it feels kinda flimsy... The 3x3 liftarm block thing on the rear wing can easily be replaced by a (slightly weaker) smoother looking assembly. Personal gripe: this set uses many system parts, I hate it. Biig gap in the hood, its glaringly obvious from some angles. If you can look past the varying part textures due to 3d printed parts and missing headlights (I have ordered them but I'm impatient) I think it looks pretty decent. The bad: Terrible seat so bad I fixed it before moving on with the build. Disappointing reliance on system parts, too many gears in the steering system, rear suspension too soft, rear wing being "adjustable" is just lazy design not fixing it in place. Also, there were two weird gaps in the roof?? I filled them in with 1m beams, but it just seems lazy. I don't think the real car would have big holes in the roof... The good: Overall it looks pretty good, having a the drift function is nice. The 57585 part usage to get the angle of the rear wing is nice. The working steering wheel at this scale is good to include too. Front engine and AWD is nice to see, and all the new suspension parts are glorious. My verdict: 5/10. Overpriced, but a good set. It should be what we expect, not what we are surprised and happy to get.

Wow! I was surprised by the performance, it seemed get up really slippery surfaces with relative ease. I feel sorry for you having to clean it now, ouch...