Paperinik77pk
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I like it!!! the colors are very "modern"! It gives the idea of an older locomotive repainted in a new color scheme! Nice!
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MOC (to be restored) - BR Class 55 - Deltic - 4,5v
Paperinik77pk replied to Paperinik77pk's topic in LEGO Train Tech
Never bought a 9v train until 2008 when I bough the Santa Fe and Metroliner! I hated the 9v trains - that's why I began building Technic and starting to repair and restore old computers I will remake it in LDD - I do not remember at all the bogies!!! Thanks!!! I'll try with my vintage parts - but I do not have a lot of old grey parts - maybe on Bricklink... -
Hi all, after a specific request of @LEGO Train 12 Volts, and seeing the last posts on various BR locomotives, I retrieved from the basement an old MOC I built a lot of years ago - it literally comes from the 80's. It is a gray era, and it was made copying the style of the 722 set: It has a troubled story - it was never finished. It started as a multicolor prototype which ran a few times with custom 4,5v wheels adapted on 6 studs Technic axles. Then it was destroyed for something else, then I rebuilt a blue cabin...then it survived until the 90's as a cabin only, then I rebuilt it with a newer Technic chassis and custom wheels, then it was destroyed and re-built again in its actual shape. This last version was prepared in 2001 if I remember well. I put it away to keep it intact, while I was focusing on my current 4.5v / 12v collection. Be prepared, it was made with reeeeeeally basic parts, starting from a few photos I had at the time of the Deltic prototype. I loved it. The small 4,5v motor was put on the "front" and had a cardanic shaft to the gear reduction part on the "rear" of locomotive. I remember I had a big plate, modified with a hole,both to connect and transfer power to bogie trough a vertical axle. All cables are gone (used for more important tasks). The battery holder was REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEALLY heavy. It was faster than a 4.5v normal train and pulled nicely the 7740 wagons due to its good traction. Another thing I remeber: it was extremely noisy, but - all in all - it was an unwanted tribute to the real one (thanks Youtube for making me hear the real DELTIC power) Am I planning to end it? I do not know. I'm tempted - I have my 3D printed wheels now , and I can make her run again - Let's see - for the moment I'm after by big scale trains I hope you like it, even in this disastered status! Ciao! Davide
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Very good attempt!!! It is nice and well proportioned - starting from these two sets it was quite impossible to do better than this!
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Great stuff! Nice Garden railroad!!!
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Another great model @LEGO Train 12 Volts, I simply love Deltic-engined locomotives!!! Pairing it with @Hod Carrier VGA wagons was a great, great idea You made me nostalgic about my 4,5v class 55!!!
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This is great!!! I like the idea of moving the bogies' pivot point over the articulated joint - this is a perfect transmission. Now that you moved the boiler aside, it is a perfect shay!!!
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Sweet!!! A pleasure to watch!
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Unauthorized selling of instructions for MOCs
Paperinik77pk replied to Sven J's topic in LEGO Train Tech
Hi @Tenderlok - I'm afraid of this bad situation. I know, someone can tell "well, it's only Lego" but it is more then that. It could be wood, metal, plastiline, every material we can think about...but a creation is a creation and must be respected. There's always a spark of genius in everything we all do. Small or great, it is there. It is nice to get inspiration, to build, to study and understand - even to modify another one's MOC. But selling it and even show it on youtube...well it seems not smart at all to me - and shows: A bad behaviour in general towards you, his "customers" and the whole community A bad attitude towards this kind of hobby (is this person a real AFOL? At this point - no) Very, very, very poor idea of business - I mean - how many instructions did this man sell??? Surely he's not much rich than before. It is a bad thing and I'm sorry this happened to you. I always think there's a limit to all. Promptly someone demonstrates me I'm wrong -
Hi! Your version is far better than the original one with that 7725-ish cabin (which I frankly find horrible, loving 12v trains) - it looks more refined and solid! Good job!
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@jamesed_1971 oh yes - now I remember this model!!! Actually it was one of the Mocs that inspired me to try the "Big Scale" - I remembered only the locomotive - not the wagon - it really is impressive!!!
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Hi! Thank you! I'd love to see some pictures of your rendition of the Lady Anne (and carriages too)!
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Thanks!!! I think this is what will happen - for the moment I did not pull very heavy loads - I'm curious to see how much a passenger car like the 7710 will weight when "doubled"
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Yes - same solution - and it seems to me...also the same size
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Thanks Sven! I came by trial and error to a similar solution, but you anticipated the problem...the radius is very tight and the couplings swivel in a very unrealistic way. I'll try your solution to see how it works on small radius (BTW your bogie is spectacular). Apart the bogie wagon trial, I analyzed different sizes of 2 axle wagons, according to a calculation I made starting from wagon lenghts reported on LGB catalogs. Fixed width: 12 studs - Buffers: approximately 2 studs on each side. 26cm (28 studs base - interaxle 17 studs - coupling bar lenght from axle to buffer 8 studs) - 94063 "Lego car" 30cm (34 studs base - interaxle 17 studs - coupling bar lenght from axle to buffer 10 studs) - 40032 "Gondola" 34cm (38 studs base - interaxle 21 studs - coupling bar lenght from axle to buffer 10 studs) - 43356 "Refrigerator Car" 45cm (52 studs base - interaxle 25 studs - coupling bar lenght from axle to buffer 13 studs) - 33551 "RHb Passenger car" For two axles cars I prepared a very simple chassis which can be extended to desired size. For the first three sizes 26cm, 30 cm and 34cm - the test was successful, even on standard Lego curves. For the 45cm one (52 studs)...well...you can judge by yourself - it's really too much for the R40 radius...and 48 studs is not better with two axles - but can be the good size for bogies By the way, the 52 studs-two axle could really be a nice wagon to build and run on larger track. So, I think that doubling also the lenght of standard lego wagons could help - so 32+ studs for the two axles and 48 studs for the bogie - based wagons. It seems a good compromise. Adjusting a bit the coupler lenght I managed also S curves without straights, but it's ridiculous to see it going around the track! Back to LDD - I need to focus a bit on carriages style Bye! Davide
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You are right - I explained badly - the band is not needed on bogie wagons. My doubt is related to the coupling system between loco and wagon , which was tried only on the 7720 and on some two axle cars. I wonder if it will be good also an a bogie wagon, I hope it is not too rigid, otherwise I'll have to adapt it somehow - my concern is that it could steer too much the bogie, forcing it to derail. Tomorrow I'll try to to put together a bogie wagon - now I'm curious Ciao! Davide
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Hi Sven, thank you for your always kind and helpful feedback...you were right at the beginning of this thread...the chain drive is not so good for this purpose. Or, better, the chain drive works fine only if it is well tensioned - but in this way you must add something to add tension - which I did it - but it made the solution too complex and increased the friction. This problem did not occur on when the chain was driving only one axle (the chain was self-tensioning), but when I extended the chain, problems began to show up. Gears work way better for a locomotive of this kind. Plus, the possibility to choose a wider range of gear ratio is a good point of the new drivetrain. Great suggestion on the lubricant - I was thinking what to use (no WD40 for sure - maybe Tamiya Grease) - but the teflon spray can be the real solution (also on old 12v trains? let's try!) The unwanted tilting (what was identified as "spaghetti effect" in the castering thread) is something I was wondering looking at the LGB coupling - which seems to leave the hook to move sideways. To be honest it seemed not too much "precise" at a first glance, especially in pushing mode. I never saw one in action - in fact I was tempted to buy the LGB "Lego" wagon only to study it). The multilink system shown some threads ago limits this behaviour and accepts a more standard track geometry. But for such a small wagon...it seems not worthy. The coupling I'm using now is quite rigid and the rubber band helps to limit the excessive turning of the axles - but it is always a solution to manage a tight curve radius - a compromise by any means . To be sincere, I'm quite afraid to try it on a bogie-based wagon - but I'll do it one day!
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In addition to the new drivetrain of the Diesel Chassis, I also had some time to get a better picture of what G-Scale trains offer today. I threrefore dowloaded the LGB catalogue in .pdf format and found a nice surprise: It is a small wagon with a Lego-compatible bed full of studs...it's veeeeeery niiiiice (It costs around 30 Euros - pity I do not have G-gauge tracks ready to be used). The bed is 12 studs wide and 28 studs long . Quite amazingly it matches the 7720XXL size (a bit smaller in lenght) - I did not bother to use any specific scale apart doubling the original Lego locomotive size. It was a lucky shot! The LGB wagon has two axles which can steer independently and do not use any particular or complicated steering system. The coupling pivots together with the axle. So I tried to recreate it in Lego with the parts I had around...it has no undercarriage details, but I'll re-design it in LDD after some tests, so I can make it prettier. Same exact dimensions as the LGB original. It is very simple,cost effective and a good base for building also longer wagons. But it has a flaw - you have to use some "tricks" when building the track (so a piece of straight track before/after points and between S-shaped curves). I think its simplicity can make me accept this limit. I still don't know if I'll use this steering solution for the gondola wagon I designed in LDD. I hope you like it! Comments and suggestions are welcome as usual ! Ciao, Davide
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Hi all, today I had the opportunity to work a bit on the garden train, especially on the transmission, which was completely changed. Here's the result: The chain system was removed (I will keep the idea for lighter locomotives or other uses), and a new geartrain was installed. currently the gear ratio is 1:1 and it's achieved using two Z16 gears. It can be changed to: 1:1.667 1:3 3:1 (overdrive) 1.667:1 (overdrive) In this way I can manage different speeds and torque according to the weight or purpose of the locomotive. The PF motor now is centrally mounted, I rearranged a bit the cables and found a new way to lock the S-Brick inside the hood. It works smoothly, and traction now is very good I thougt Lego gears were less strong, luckily I was wrong!
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Good work on the Emerald Night, it now seems a different engine! I like a lot those wagons too
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That Bernina layout is amazing...fantastic tunnels, beautiful landscape...it is a dream. Also the ABe 4/4 is awesome!!!
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Hi all, a little update on this topic - which was stopped a bit by some experiments with the new 3D printer. I finally had the time to design something to put on the wagon base - trying to keep it simple and cost-effective (and able to transport a cocktail in pure G-Gauge style ). It is a simple gondola car in gray/or reddish brown - based on LGB 41031 gondola car. As you can see the wagon base is still the old one without pivoting couplings (which maybe will be changed for a simpler version than the ones shown some posts ago). Having some spare time, I began to build the third type of locomotive chassis (steamer) and to experiment a bit. Unlike the diesel chassis, it has less internal space (especially in its central part), so the battery, transmission (gear-based this time) and motor are arranged in a different way. It keeps the double-gauge feature so it still is compatible both with G and L-gauge. Tomorrow I will order the parts on Bricklink, so I can have something to pull with the 7720. Here you can see the Steamer chassis with a well-known body on it. Regarding the diesel-chassis, the chain solution for powering both axles has some flaws. It needs to be tensioned, and it jumps (only in one direction - strange behaviour ). I will probably keep the chain drive on one axle only and transfer the power to the other axle in another way. That's all for the moment! Bye! Davide
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This is simply art !!! I love every single detail, the smoothness of that beauty. A trillion of thumbs up
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Very nice building! Changing a bit the colors really was a good choice! Now you need a new brand for all those nice little cars
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Hi all, after a bit of work on Tinkercad I finally managed to achieve a better design of the 12v wheel - It is not 100% faithful to the original, but dimensions are now correct (I confirm that the border was too small by 2mm) I recolored the two objects in black and red just to give an idea. The coupling rod hole was a bit difficult to do (for my limited skills with the CAD software), but at the end I managed to find a solution to replicate it. It is hard to explain - it is composed by two cylindrical holes: the smaller one is the one we can see on top of wheel . Coupling rod pin goes in there. But the Lego coupling rod pin has a sort of clip, so I needed to create a larger cylinder under the first one to allow the clip to expand and to keep the coupling rod in place. This is the final product: And now some testing - this time I got my old faithful 7715. After the removal of the 4,5v motor (gray cables can still be seen in the pictures), I installed the PF motor, put an original 12v central wheel and two 12v 3D printed wheels. Coupling rods fit nicely and work even at high speed. For the moment wheels work fine, but design can be vastly improved. The important thing for me was to keep the 12v style - not only on modern trains like the 7740 but also on steamers. I'm quite happy - it is something I want to do since years. Hope you like it! Bye, Davide P.S. Since I had to open again the motor to align the axles (coupling holes must be in the same position), I tried the axle with stop solution to keep in place the third wheel - it works better than modified pins (less friction), but the bad part is that you always need to open the motor. The only effort in this case is to cut the axle with stop part.