Paperinik77pk

Thanks! I did not know about that tutorial ...weĺl at least the solution seems correct! I think also axles 3l and 4l with stop can be used (they only must be cut the right lenght and painted black)

Nice work!!! it seems very flexible!

Lovely monorail with a vintage touch!!! Nice job!!!

Hi all, after literally months from the first post, I finally got the chance to make some progress on the creation of the 12v wheels. I finally bought (as a birthday gift) a 3D printer. It is an economical, entry point version, just what I needed to learn the basics There's a website (www.thingiverse.com) were a lot of custom models are created by people. And there are a lot of interesting Lego parts (including modified tracks and bricks). There's also a model of a Lego train wheel with Technic axle hole, but it is not so precise - and the technic hole seems to be a bit narrow. I printed it but it was not good to me. I therefore proceeded with my original design made on Tinkercad, simplified a bit to speed up the printing time. Here below, the printing in process of my model (these 3d printers are amazing!). The wheel is printed in PLA material, but the printer can also manage ABS. The above picture shows how the wheels came out with an intermediate level opf print quality (14 minutes per wheel). As you can see, there are no decorations and the 12v coupling rod hole is missing. Here below, the test with original rubber bands in place: It seems the wheel borders are a bit too small, for this reason I'll probably make them a bit bigger. The locomotive works fine and the PF motor is as fast as the 12v one (just a bit more silent without the typical 12v noise of electric contacts on the electrified third rail) - I will post a video made running the 7740 in 1980 configuration (7740+7820) on my 12v test track The central wheel is now mounted in another way, which I think better and more solid than the first one I show in the first posts. It can work with RC/PF original wheels too. In order to mount the wheels we've to open the motor, put the modified parts in the two central holes, and close the motor housing. First, we've to modify this half axle with pin. use a sharp cutter, it will be easier and faster. Cut away the pin part, you have to keep the axle part and that plastic ring, which is too wide and must be narrowed a bit to allow the wheel to spin freely. The modified part must be inserted on the bottom part of the motor housing (do not modify the motor housing, it is not needed). As you can see, the gray part is touching a small black plate in the motor housing. In this moment it is crucial to perform some adjustments to the gray ring - slice it (or sandpaper it) until it allows a smooth movement. It is a 2-minutes work - nothing difficult. Create another modified axle/pin, put it on the other side of the motor housing and reassemble the motor. Insert the wheels, and job is done !!! And now, to the next step - holes for 12V coupling rods!!! Bye!!! Davide

Thanks!!! It was inspired from some information I found in internet about custom wagons in G-Scale - allowing tight radius cornering. It is completely unreal , but I have to adapt (improvise, adapt, overcome! ) the behaviour of rolling stock to the worst track case possible. I made no photo but in standard curves the side edges of the locomotive and wagon are veeeeeery near. Basically I'm trying to make what looks like a metric gauge train to run on a Decauville track radius. The locomotive is still in 2wd mode with rubber bands on traction wheels - I have the new chains, but I did not install them yet Bye! Davide

Hi @zephyr1934 , thank you! - After a week without working on the big train, I prepared a prototype wagon to test the new couplings and the axle-steering system - I can confirm the simple coupling works fine, and it is a decent way to keep rolling stock together. It also has a bit of flexibility, which is not bad. So, let's see how it works: First case - switch with straight line track (also valid for switch with one straight and one curve) - this is the optimal track solution to help the axles and the couplings in doing their work. Second case - original Lego track geometry with counter-curve after the switch (harder to manage, but very realistic in this big scale - two trains can cross each other without touching, and they are very close. Now, let's take a look to the steering system on the wagon: It is the same used on my yellow wagon - I used big wheels, but also BBB medium wheels can be used without problems. The steering pivot of the coupling is quite far from the coupling itself, but it allows a good, decentralized movement of the coupling from side to side. The steering system works as you can see in the pictures, the coupling actually steers a bit more than the axle. The fake suspension used for locomotive is replicated also on wagon and covers quite fine the wheels. The first picture shows wheels spaced to work on standard Lego gauge , in the second one you can see the wheels positioned to work on 45mm G-Gauge. Probably I'll rework the fake suspension to look like a leaf-spring type instead of a double-spring type. And this is how the wagon manages the second type of track geometry: Locomotive is travelling on the switch - this is the most critical moment: locomotive coupling is quite at its maximum articulation and brings the wagon steering to move a bit in the opposite direction. This is a problem of the locomotive coupling pivot, which is too near to the chassis end. But I cannot move it, there are batteries and motor on the other side - so I have to accept this. ...at least the unwanted turning movement is mitigated by the linked steering (so wagon wheels are not steered too much to touch the rail with borders. Step two - the wagon is managing the switch, axle is turned according to curve. Step Three - the locomotive is now on the straight part of the track and pulls the wagon in the right way - axle is steered to follow the curve (maybe a bit too much). It seems to work both pulling and pushing - I'm not satisfied 100% by that unwanted steering - I'll try to move the axles inwards by one stud and to make the steering links a bit longer (4 studs instead of 3). I tried also to put the locomotive red body (the "prototype") on the wagon chassis - it is quite heavy, but it is pulled without problems. Wagons will surely be lighter than the locomotive, since the bodies will be 1-stud wide instead of 2-wide. Last but not least...an S-Brick arrived as a gift...now I can drive a blue....tooth locomotive . Bye! Davide

Yes, it is possible, it is compatible with all Technic parts, you only have to deal with the specific voltage and with a bit of downgearing to achieve some more torque

I like it a lot!!! Small, very good use of internal space, realistic colors...thumbs up

It is a very nice realization!!! With time and patience you will also create it in real bricks and then you can add or modify details - and it truly is another level of satisfaction I simply can not leave unanswered one your nice signatures: "The way I see it, if you're gonna build a time machine into a car, why not do it with some style?" Ciao! Davide

Hi @Bartosz, sorry for delay, here it is the .lxf file: https://www.dropbox.com/s/w6ku042a9hx35lh/4564.lxf?dl=0 Good work on your 4564!!!

That "nose" is amazing - it perfectly imitates the shape of the original locomotive!!! Well done!!!

Wagon chassis will surely tested with a cocktail on it - I put this test on the list!!! maybe too fast - I tried other gear ratios - but until I'm not sure on how much the wagons weigh and stress the transmission I cannot tell which is the best one I love trains with nature background - it is somehow relaxing!

Thank you!!! I think the track, with a bit of "terrain preparation" (e.g. bricks and plates under the track to cover holes) can be manageable - let's see the weather during weekend! In the meantime, I'm studying how to manage couplings and the wagons behaviour on R40 track. This is the new buffer with coupling system I want to share with you - for comments and suggestions; The buffer can turn left and right - together with the coupling. The coupling can be folded up when not in use (the buffer must be removed and put again in place) Here above it is in extended position. Here below, the prototype of the two- axle wagon is ongoing - the buffer is turning like the locomotive one - but it will also turn the wheels (I found some solutions of G scale wagons with two axles adopting a similar steering system). The coupling is easy to perform - even if it is the most unreal thing on earth - turn one buffer right, turn the other left - connnect the two couplings with the 3L axle. Each wagon will have a place to store the two 3l axles (only one should be used, the other one is a spare part) I know it is an idiotic way of coupling , but it is simple to build and, for the moment, it seems to work (and keeps the two buffers attached). I'm planning to adopt a steering linkage like the one used in the below wagon (prepared some months ago for the castering effect study) which is very similar to the G gauge solutions I saw around. Since there is some overhang from buffer to wheels, I think the wheels and buffers of these big wagons cannot be turned by the same angle - since you could have an axle which is turning too much, even if in the right direction. Doubling the size of rolling stock creates a double amount of problems when it comes to manage a track radius which already is narrow (now it is narrower by two times). I found especially difficult to manage narrow S curves (left track + right track o 2 left track + 2 right track). This evening I will prepare some photos to show you how the buffers are "stressed" during an "S" curve. I do not want to think about specific track geometries accepted by this rolling stock until I try all the technical possibilities to manage the R40 radius properly Ciao! Davide

Nooooo problem - not disappointed at all - I'll try to search them here on EB !!!

And here's the (short) video ...

Thanks!!! You're right, they are quite unaccessible - I think I'll attach a bar on them - I want to experiment a coupling like H0 ones, but I still don't know I'm just building a wagon to test the behaviour of rolling stock during curves and switches

Hi all! Parts arrived - and yesterday I had the chance to build the big blue locomotive. Since today was a really nice day, I prepared some track in our common garden and took some shots. I prepared also a video - pity it's only from outside , since I pressed the wrong button on the "driver's view" microcamera - so basically I turned it off instead of starting the recording . At least we spent a good afternoon with other neighbours and childrens!!! The pictures you see are only for show purpose since the track, simply placed over grass, is hard to manage for such an heavy locomotive - it wobbles left and right and in some cases it falls on its side. Now I understand the importance to prepare a properly plain garden railway track. Pity I do not have my own garden...but who knows... Creating some kind of track base (using wood for example) could help to solve the stability problem. As you can see, there are some differences from the red prototype and LDD projects: I kept the chain drive, but I used normal gears instead of yellow knob-gears. It drives more smoothly now. I increased the gear ratio a bit after some testing. No problems from chain drive for the moment. One of the bonnets was modified to accept IR receiver - which works quite fine. An S-Brick would be better, but for the moment I'll keep the IR solution. Side door handles were reinforced - they falled off easily - and this is not good in the garden "environment" There are no glasses on front and rear windows - the ones I received were basically no more transparent. It still is 2wd, I did not receive the chain parts yet. With two (old) red rubber traction bands things get better. In this photo the bands are not pictured since I put them on after a while. Now it is time to figure out how to make wagons work properly - the R40 radius is reeeeeeally tight and the locomotive has a significant overhang when going around a standard Lego curve. Hope you like it! Video coming soon! Ciao! Davide

Lovely real life Thomas!!! I like side decorations a lot!!!

Woooow!!! Nice, nice nice - the stickers, the wagon, the "electronics", the details...everything is spectacular . Even if it is a replica, you surely put a lot of added value. I like this "European Tour" initiative - I wonder what will come out for Italy! I'll patiently wait !!! Ciao! Davide

Great idea!!! simple but effective

And this probably will be the finest solution to keep everything in its good, old,right place . Talking about the 9v battery - an old, yellow Lego 9v battery box (quite cheap and readily available on Ebay) could solve a lot problems. It can be placed in the front, where the original "windows with shutters" were - it will need a custom made adapter cable to PF, but it will save the bonnet design , keeping it 4-studs wide. This will allow also to put again the PF motor on the front and to recreate the correct rear unpowered bogie. At this point, there will be no need for a custom base anymore. I have to try this design but it should work! And they are right!!! Time to build a Lego garden railway!!! (I cannot find a better excuse to combine "Lego" and "outside")

Hi there @Bartosz, this evening I redraw the whole thing ...since the battery detachment was not a good thing. I changed all the chassis using LDD, and made the whole locomotive more similar to the 4564. I gave up with shutters for this reason: when it comes to attach cables - there's no problem on battery side but there are a lot on receiver side (PF cables are AWFUL). Therefore, I used some common semi-tiled plates on the side - pretending the nose of the locomotive becomes slightly bigger moving towards the cabin. Same with the rear bonnet. I know, it is not an original solution AT ALL . Battery was turned by 180 degrees, so I could accomodate the connector inside the cabin (the connector is fake , but proporsions are correct. The muffler is the switch,and it is blocked in place by the roof. Receiver was moved way forward, since fitting cables will be quite a mess. I kept your nice idea of handrails and I added a "door" on the cabin. If you look at the connector on PF receiver you will notice the cable will not leave room for the shutter holder - I tried with plates with clips - but an empty space will remain, since the cable connector is just in the middle. The chassis leaves room for cable to go towards the rear motor (I put two motors for simplicity). Looking at the parts, I think this one should cost less than the one with all gray details I drew before (personally I like this more). If you like to see it in detaiI I can share the .lxf file, no problem at all. This is however one way to "reload" the original model, not necessarily the only one - some proposals in this thread (inverting battery and receiver position for example) are absolutely to be tried. @Selander green loco introduces a good way to mask the gray part of the receiver with a black sticker or tape. Instead of hiding the battery and the controller - you could try to show them where black lines are. I'd love to see how your prototype goes on. Ciao! Davide

The perfect space - saving solution ! And seems a lot of fun

Very nice!!! the use of the 9v battery really helps. It would be perfect for the remake of 4564! ...and many other engines not PF-native

1) it is there to keep together the muffler and the glass, I'd have to see it in reality if it fits - otherwise I've to find another solution based on cable plug (I never remember how it's done) 2) Aw...you're right! But The battery is flat underneath - I think it could work aswell. 3) Maybe it can be done without , but the grey upper part will be visible on top of rear bonnet Let me say, you had a nice idea to "reload" this locomotive - I liked it a lot when I bought it.