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Paperinik77pk

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  1. Paperinik77pk
    Great work!!! Love the E444, it is a real masterpiece ?
  2. Paperinik77pk
    Ok, time for some updates. Yesterday (well actually today, it was 1 o clock ) I posted some news. Today I had some time to modify again the little locomotive. I completely rebuilt the chassis, changed again the brake system, updated the body, inserted some details inside the cabin. And I changed the key with a more solid one. More important thing, I tried to insert a flywheel. Ok it is half Lego and half...metal. Basically a flexible pipe with a bolt on it. no more than 10 grams, but I can tell it works better than nothing. I kept the 5:1 gear ratio after a test with 7.5:1, too long for one motor (but could be appropriate on the twin motor). Some testing was performed on straight track, so here are the results: V1.0 - 3 gears - old chassis - front wheel drive - 4/5 meters depending on initial wheelspin V1.5 - 3 gears - old chassis - coupling rods - four wheel drive - 4 meters 1/2 V 2.0 - 2 gears - old chassis reversed - front wheel drive - 5/6 meters depending on initial wheelspin V 3.0 - 2 gears - new chassis - flywheel - coupling rods - four wheel drive - more than 7 meters (then my house has a wall ) And here I can say the V 3.0 is a great improvement. But only on straight track. Standard Lego curved track gives some hard time to the locomotive. Closed testing track is 3 straights - 8 curves - 3 straights - 8 curves. Here the locomotive hardly gets 3 whole laps. On a mixed track with large radius corners (straight - one flexible element - straight - one flexible element... and so on...) the travel distance is about 7 meters. Sorry for picture quality, my cell phone insists on using the flash feature even if I remove it from settings... A little note: removing the key helps a bit!
  3. Paperinik77pk
    I wrote a wrong thing before...I've always overdriven the output of the pullback motor Since now I've tried (on small motor): 5:1 - is the current gear ratio 9:1 - good for straight track only 15:1 - does not move if not after a big push...and then dies after a few centimeters I would like to try 7.5:1...it sounds promising. In the meantime I modified both the small motor and locomotive. Now I use two gears instead of three, which means less energy lost in moving gears. But it also means the locomotive started to work only backwards ... so I had to turn the motor by 180 degrees ...and to modify a bit the body. After removing the third gear I gained some space on the side of the motor, so I redesigned the brake lever, which now can be actuated from inside the cabin. The locomotive still is front wheel drive. I tried rubber bands, but they kill the motor on curves. I think I'll go for coupling rods and all wheel drive to avoid wheelspin. Tomorrow I'll post some photos of the new version.
  4. Paperinik77pk
    Thanks @Hod Carrier for your support. The governor is missing on some trains, Hornby for example is using heavy wheels as flywheels. However, tthe spring is extremely long and large, so torque and travelling distance are not a problem. I would like to try the fan and a flywheel of some kind. The real problem is the external size of the train, whe have very large gears and the motor is already 3 studs large. The very first idea was to have an 8-wide locomotive, but I feared the resulting weight. I tried higher gearing on the small one, but it resulted in a bit more travel and no remaining torque for pulling. Maybe the bigger motor is the one to work on for the moment. I would like to set an experimental track, like you did for testing the castering effect, in order to understand how modifications affect the locomotive performances. Let's try and see what happens
  5. Paperinik77pk
    Great work!!! I've also tried to investigate a bit how to manage long wheelbase two axle. At first I used a 6x24 train base with fixed axles. Nice on long cuves and terrible on standard curves and switches. Then I began to experiment some kind of pivoting, basically creating a normal 4 axle car and removing the outer pair of wheels. Same problem...good if pulled and placed in the middle of the train, awful if pushed or at the end of the train. I began some testing with rubber bands which kept the axles a bit more under control, and it worked better, but was not perfect at all. Your cars are waaay bigger so forces and dynamics and angulations are very different. Really interesting discussion , makes me wanting to rebuld that two axles car
  6. Paperinik77pk
    Spectacular!!!
  7. Paperinik77pk
    Thanks! No problem, here you can find some photos It is a simple mechanism, based on overdriving the output of the pull-back motor. For this first version I focused more on reducing drag (for this reason back axles are independent). Performances are poor, lots of wheelspin, all power is released immediately. It needs a so-called "governor" which was present in 50s tin toys locomotives in order to gradually release spring power. No Idea on how to recreate that, but this thread was opened on purpose to improve the idea. I also went further, and created a more powerful locomotive, using two pull-back motors, in order to increase travel distance and pulling power. This one is based on UBILDA toy train of the fifties and made in Basic bricks too. Don't look too much at the body, it was put together to have something to cover the big motor All 4 BBB wheels are driven, the front bogie is helping to balance the weight, while the rear one is purely cosmetic. It is faster than the green one, actually too fast to manage tight corners, especially for the first meter after the brake is released. Basically I doubled the torque, keeping the same gearing. The travelling distance is increased by one meter (5 in total)...it is a kind of dragster in the first half of the journey, then it is all about inertia.
  8. Paperinik77pk
    Therefore I tried to create something based on existing offer of pull-back motors, and I created this little locomotive. Body is very simple, built with bricks from Lego Basic Sets. Wheels are from BBB. Motor is based on pull-back motor which can be easily found on some sets. It is detachable from body and is inspired by Hornby and Marx clockwork motors. I included a small brake, which helps in windup operations. The driven axle is the front one, but with the help of connecting rods, all wheels can be driven (this increases traction but also reduces the travelling distance).
  9. Paperinik77pk
    Hi all, since I like a lot old tin trains (Marx, Hornby) and in particular the clockwork ones, I always wanted to try to create my own clockwork toy train. The first idea was to use the yellow old clockwork motor from the Basic sets of the 80s. Unfortunately, its wheels were designed to accept tires, so double side border and no capability to go through rail switches. From this forum ("Moc Clockwork Steam Locomotive" from RSB04 user) I understood the possibility to change the standard wheels with train wheels and so I did, adding two rubber bands. I can say it works fine, with all its limitations. I ended up creating a "reloaded" 115 set with parts of the 70s I had around. All cars are very light, and I greased the axles with tamiya Mini4WD grease in order to eliminate noises and to reduce drag. On a circle track, it makes 1 and 3/4 turns. On straight track, it travels more or less 4 meters. It is a toy train, no more no less, but I wanted something more modern.
  10. Paperinik77pk
    Thanks! :)
  11. Paperinik77pk
    I have one without the little whistle...but clapping your hands works too I love this little train, it has a good "old toy fashion"!
  12. Paperinik77pk
    No holes in cones!
  13. Paperinik77pk
    I also agree - Lego must sell big volumes - probably no one would buy the remake if not people knowing the original model. What is really missing today in Lego trains is...a good range of train products. This is probably what brings older fans to remember old sets and to ask for a reloaded version. I know is a well known and repeated topic, but Lego trains of the past were way more interesting. They offered "unlimited possibilities" and they sold well, becoming sort of icons. One of the most valuable selling points of City series is the continuity. You always have cars, police station, fire station, other buildings...always the same things renewed, repeated in new recipes. Same should be done , again, for trains. The example made above for the Super-Chief and related cars is perfect - both sets were too "standalone". A basic set, complete and playable - and then compatible addons - is the right solution in my opinion. I got the point - no reloaded sets with only some parts changed - they would not sell. Let's change the idea of "reloading" a set. A 7740 - completely new - but only elder Lego fans would understand it is a 7740. For all other people it would be at least a DB 103 looking locomotive or a big red-yellow german whatevernationitis train. Let's imagine a 7939 locomotive,a bit longer, modified in red-yellow, with all details (gray side venting grills, two pantographs, third central headlight, 6 wheels bogies). Two nice cars in the same two-tone colors. This is a set, recalling a real iconic locomotive. new parts, new way of building. Same stuff in new disguise. Supported by additional cars like a mail wagon, a restaurant car, another copy of a normal passenger car and a wagon-lit car. Same offer, 30 years later. it works with the VW Golf, it should work also for Lego trains :)
  14. Paperinik77pk
    You can copy the solution from some 70s lego sets (e.g. set 119) which used the black battery box, with some bricks on top of the battery box cover to emulate a tender. The only problem is that the small steam locomotives of the 80s were intended as locotenders, so a tender is not too appropriate (but who cares...if it works!) :) I personally use a modified red battery wagon from 7722. I simply changed the wheels from black to red (these were taken from a broken blue battery wagon) to match the color of train's wheels (all red). In order to reduce weight, I use C to AA battery adapters bought somewhere in China :)
  15. Paperinik77pk
    Nice thread!!! Sincerely I think the current train offer from Lego is quite limited. One Passenger train - one freight train. No steam locomotives, no additional cars. Old trains had a more detailed offer (diesels, steamers, cars, more expensive, less expensive...) and this variety is lacking in today's catalogs. The Emerald Night and the Horizon Express were really nice trains - and now have become expensive rarities. So a good "re- release" could be nice. But the re-release must be a bit different from the original set, in order to: preserve the good value of old collecting items give to the new set a specific identity - making it a collectible too I always thought to recreate some older glories in PF version, so the same thinking could be applied to official re-releases: For instance, what is making PF trains similar to older sets is: A good, solid, fast motor, with the same form factor of 12v and 9V motors. Plus, the PF motors do have a central hole for third wheel - maybe something to lock the central wheel like in 12V motors could be useful. Battery box. It is smaller and lighter than older battery boxes. No problem fitting it in bigger locomotives. For smaller ones...well a sort of battery wagon should be used. Old pieces are quite standard, and still available. Some parts (like small 2x1 shutters) can be replaced with other solutions. PF/RC track is very simple and solid - similar to 9v track but good also for 4,5v/12v - like trains. 9V and PF motors can be completed with the same or very similar "suspension" side parts what is lacking is: Train Wheels - 12V and 4,5V wheels are not difficult to recreate with a cross Technic axle hole. Train Wheels - standard RC/PF wheels do not have a little pinhole for rods Train Wheels - in different colors and sizes - what BBB offers MUST exist in Lego A more aggressive advertising - people playing with Lego trains, official pictures and videos of scenery (having only two trains I find it difficult at the moment) So for example - 7720 train can be re-released without too many problems, in my opinion.
  16. Paperinik77pk
    Interesting thread! I bought three 7730 sets (only one currently built and running, other ones were used to build or complete other "red motor" sets). I never noticed the axlehole in the instructions...I will check this evening and tell you!
  17. Paperinik77pk
    Hi to everyone, my name is Davide,I'm 40 years old and I live in Milan (Italy). My great passion for Lego (my other two Hobbies are vintage cars, trains and retrocomputing) started in 1980, with the small Fire Chief car - set 602 (which at the time remembered me a Fiat 126 - actually it should be a VW Beetle). I had the lucky chance to play with Gray Era trains, and to be supported by my parents. I had the even more lucky chance to have an older cousin with some Lego trains from the mid-seventies, so also the Blue Era was highly fascinating me. Technic sets were also a great fun to build and to run. What I liked most was to mix Technic and Trains. New Lego sets are awesome, but I prefer focusing on MOCs, since now is not a problem designing and retrieve parts to build what I like. I build in a simple, old way, and I'm trying to implement my SNOT techniques. I particularly like to build in 60s/70s/80s style, since I collected a lot of special parts of those times. See you on the forum! Davide
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