Paperinik77pk

Thanks!!! More or less it is the noise is the same as the M-Motor - I changed the phone to record the video - maybe the microphone is better!!! Ooooh Lemmings!!! I love and hate them at the same time (I destroyed my Amiga mouse on that game) Thank you sir! Yes he's the Mushroom! All these things were used to decorate my daughter's room - she actually built all of these. All figures have a hole so they can be nailed to the wall. There were also Peach and MCPixel, but we re-used the bricks to make something else

Very nice creation! It really has a British feeling!!! I especially like the way you made the boiler.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/138174786@N04/48474777597/in/dateposted-public/ Hi @Roadmonkeytj, I copied here a link of a short video I prepared to show some programmable functions that can be implemented using the PuP Application. I do not know if the standard PuP train motor will react as the M-Motor I'm using on the big locomotive in the video, it's a bit of trial and error approach

Hi all, I've updated a bit the Toy Train locomotive, converting it from Power Functions to Powered Up solution. I had to wait for the lights and the PuP Medium motor , which arrived a week ago. Today I had some time to take some photos and a video to show some possibilities of the new system. First thing - the PuP Medium motor and the standard train controller work together, buth there's no progressive speed control - this means 100% of speed only. Second thing - on the Android App the predefined sliders for train do not work with M-Motor. Somethinng can be achieved with the Batman control schema, but I found out the programming interface is more fun. The PuP M-Motor fits perfectly where the PF M-Motor was before - same speed, same power. As you can see I geared up a bit the output. Cabin is now taller by half stud, trans-black glasses were used instead of clear ones, and the Bluetooth light now shines bright in the "cockpit". And here some stupid programs (Lights on, Lights off, go backwards at 50% for one second then stop, go forward at 30% for five seconds then stop, and the last one is a progressive stop). Here below, the link to the short video I made: https://www.flickr.com/photos/138174786@N04/48474777597/in/dateposted-public/ In the following picture, the locomotive is pushing an LGB original wagon, with studs on top. It was a great idea in my opinion, and was available both in a starter set and as an alone item. My 8-bit buddies seem to like it! Ciao! Davide

My fault, I explained it badly - plus I wrote a wrong workflow (I forgot a command). The "duration" is valid only for approach/coupling and decoupling. Setting a small amount of time will make the locomotive to move at desired speed only for a second, or two. - START>SPEED SET -10%>TIME LIMIT x>STOP - this will allow the locomotive to make a slow movement backwards and stop quite immediately. - START>SPEED SET 30%>TIME LIMIT x>STOP - this will allow the locomotive to make a fast movement forward and stop quite immediately. This should give enough power to un-couple. When the locomotive has to travel on free track, you can use the fixed speed controls START>HORN>SPEED 40% or START>HORN>SPEED -40% - but obviously you'll have to stop the locomotive manually. The programming is nice since you can emulate gradual acceleration and stopping, which adds realism.

Hi @Roadmonkeytj, you are creating something really special , I'm following this thread from its beginning, looking at all your great solutions!!! The App has the possibility to create some "programs" that can be executed without using the standard sliders. I tried a bit the application in order to solve a problem with my big G scale toy train (the Medium motor does not allow adjustable speed with the standard controller, and I do not like the way sliders work on the APP). I therefore created some small programs to achieve different speeds, to stop, to turn on lights and so on). So for example , you can create a program for each activity you need: One to allow slow coupling (START>SPEED SET 10%>TIME LIMIT 3), another one to allow fast decoupling (START>SPEED SET 30%>TIME LIMIT 3), one for moving forward at a fixed speed (START>HORN>SPEED 40%) or backwards (same as forward with speed -40%), one for stopping the engine (START>SPEED 0%>BRAKE SOUND). Problem is...you also need to create a tablet/smartphone holder

That's a cute little train, I love the "all-in-one" solution for locomotive and tender together, it reminds me of old wooden and tin Toy Trains! Small wagons are amazing, especially the roof is spectacular! Only two things: - it seems that the rear bogie is as big as the PF Motor in the front, I'd try to put the motor under the battery and make the front bogie smaller and swinging. - It is the perfect train for Powered Up system - so you won't need any receiver. Plus, the battery box is white and is color-matching A zillion of thumbs up!

Very Nice Road&Rail Truck!!! the thin tires are like the real thing!!!

Thanks Thorsten!!! All the best to you too!

Thanks Emanuele!!! That motor has a lot of potential...Pity it is so rare!

Ciao Thorsten! Thank you! The Micro Motor is quite good for this kind of applications - the problem is its high price. I have two of them and I use them from time to time. I usually keep the direct drive 1:1 gear ratio (the train wheels overdrive the final gear ratio a bit). On the Badoni "Sogliola" (Breuer Type IV) I used old Technic wheels with slick tires from the 70s, and the gear ratio is a bit lower than using train wheels (due to the bigger diameter). It pulls two 12v cars from a a 7740 without problems. It is slow, but the speed matches the real thing and is correct for the shunting work. This is the other Moc using the 9v MicroMotor - it is a bit slower than the Badoni. I'm wondering if a more powerful small motor can be squeezed inside a modified brick (or a specific 3d printed case with studs). It's nice to create small things!

Hi all, since in these days I'm working on the 112 XXL , I thought it could be an idea to have the old glorious 112 also in a smaller scale. So I began to design this little thing around the 9V Micromotor: The front and top part are really similar to the 112 version inside the "50 years on track" set. In my opinion that version is very well done, but has some strange solutions (like the cabin glass going on the top of the boiler). Even this one has the boiler setting higher than it should be, but the big gear required a bit of room. Being so narrow and tall, it immediately resembled me a Decauville steamer, so I decided to go all the way and I adapted the buffers/couplers accordingly. This is the internal mechanism with the fake 9V Micromotor. The locomotive can be driven from an external battery box, but inside the boiler there's the possibility to accomodate three CR2025 batteries for a short, independent journey. I did not try a 9v battery box since in blue it is very rare stuff (plus, experimening a bit with alternative batteries will be useful also for my other models based on the 9V Micromotor (like the Badoni "Sogliola", for example). The locomotive is FWD only, since I needed some chassis to support the whole thing The size is quite right for a standard Lego Minifig. I can't wait to see the big one, the original and the small sister all together! Ciao! Davide

One word - ASTONISHING. It's a beauty, it is complex, it is an uncommon locomotive... fantastic. Can't wait to see it working on your layout!!! P.S. The Chevy in the background looks great!!!

Great work, all these cars look stunning - I especially like the two axles tank one. Also the locomotive is beautiful, and the whole train is simply amazing to see.

Thanks!!!

@Tenderlok This is my proposal for the bogies with vertical motor: In this case, motor is all-in one with the bogie. I have to try it in real life, but it should work (maybe also in smaller scales) Ciao! Davide

Nice solution!!! I prepared a similar thing using the modern version of that connector - the one without studs - I'll try this one for sure!!! Regarding bogies: yes, the drawback of the turntables solution is the one you mentioned, transmission affects free bogies turning. Your solution is neat - I tried the vertical mounting too (directly on vertical axle) , but then...the problem was to attach the bogie to the chassis (but LGB cars gave me an idea). The LXD2 has a narrow hood, plus the SNOT mounting of the sides requires some internal support structure, so I abandoned the vertical mounting solution. A good thing would be to integrate the motors inside the bogie, but I only could achieve this goal with the M Motor for the moment. L Motors are bigger and it's quite a mess to fit them all under the chassis and have all wheels driven at the same time. One solution I tried without particular success is cardanic transmission (like railcars with diesel motors mounted under the chassis), but it's not so solid, especially on heavy models like these.

Thanks!!! Actually I have the real LGB "Stainz" Locomotive, and I can say it's pretty correct regarding dimensions. As a result, my locomotive has the same dimensions of the LGB model, more or less (wheels are a bit smaller). The first yellow Toy Train I made has the same dimensions as the LGB Stainz, since It is completely freelance. It was really a model of a model! Thanks, Sven! The bogies are attached to the main chassis using turntables, the vertical transmission axle is using the turntable's hole to reach the bogie. In this way I avoided using transmission axle both for turning bogies and moving wheels. The two motors are one inside the cabin and the other one inside the hood. This evening I'll make you some renderings of the open locomotive! I received today the two L-Motors and a PuP Medium motor. Wheels will arrive in the next days, so the mockup of the LXD2 will be created! Thanks for your offer on alligator crosshead!!! I will surely study it - My solution is too weak, and sincerely I do not like the cylinders at all!

Hi all, Id' like to show some projects I'm working on, just to understand what do you think about them. The first one is the second Toy Train Locomotive, called "Stainz". It is the locomotive LGB uses for its starter sets. But it seems that LGB loco is not a reproduction of the real Stainz, but a very similar locomotive. The two locomotives have very limited differences, but I wanted to use the real one as model. The Stainz "2" locomotive has one main difference against the LGB Locomotive...the two laterel reservoirs (one for the water and one for the coal), are longer, plus the coal one is higher than the one used for water. It still needs a lot of work, especially on coupling rods and cabin. Boiler is heavily inspired to @Tenderlok locomotives, it is only thinner. The other one is a FAUR LXD2 Diesel locomotive from Poland. This is a big amount of work and it's my first trial to create an heavier locomotive. There's a bit of SNOT in this one, to reproduce the original shape of the doors on nose and tail. Even if the Polish locomotive runs on 760mm track, FAUR produced also the metric gauge version. This one is based on two PF L-Motors and a standard AA PF battery . Both are built in 1:22,5 scale, starting from technical designs and photos. Hope you like it! Ciao! Davide

Hi Sven! Yes it is a lot different approach! I love your work on G-Scale trains, and It's a constant inspiration to me (I have to admit - one if my works in progress has been heavily influenced by your solution for the round boiler ). What I like to create are basically toys. I like old tin toys, the whole 60s and 70's Lego production, wooden trains and so on. This big scale is particularly satisfying since I want a train in a new garden, but I want it to be completely built by me (I'll try also to build something in wood and plasticard one day ). Simple and straight like the toys of the past, Even if my other experiments in G-Scale are getting more refined, they are keeping the same simple design. One thing I'm trying to implement is the use of standard and common parts, to reduce price of the models. They must be easy to build, affordable, sturdy and compatible. Figures are a nice idea - I was thinking about the Maxifigs or the Miniland figures, but I think they will be a bit too big. Nonetheless, these 60s trains were completely out of any possible scale - so it could work! Thanks again!!! Davide

Thank you for your supportive comments! Today I found out that the body of the locomotive was quite weak on some points, then I re-did it from scratch, starting from what I could try on the real thing Chassis is now different, the motor emulates the 4,5V original motor, lamps "windows" are now reversed to resemble the old 1x1 lamps, there's a fixed support for the smoke generator and I added an interior to the cabin to make it more "refined". The parts I used as buffers are really expensive and rare in red - I preferred to use curved plate parts (same function and more availability). I used the original parts of the PF motor set 8293 (the reversing switch goes immediatly in front of the red topped lever, but it is not in LDDs library, so it's not represented). The yellow lever is the main on/off switch and just sticks out in the cabin, like old Hornby trains. The locomotive is now the real big copy of the original 112. No digital features, only pure, analogic mechanics! In case, it is sufficient to add the Sbrick module to make it more "modern".

Thank you for the comment! Today I was working on the prototype, and I could see that the real locomotive can fit either two 4,5v light bricks, two 9v lights connected by 9v wires, or PF/PuP led lights. Motors I tried to fit include the 4,5v Technic Motor, the 9v Motor and Medium PF/PuP motors. The 4,5v and 9v require a bit of work on the gear ratio, but they fit inside the body. Battery boxes I tried are the original gray 4,5v battery box, the PF AA and the PF/PuP AAA battery boxes. It is quite fun to play with these options!!! I wonder how the 4,5v motor could perform under load (probably it would be too much for the little beast) Thanks to all!!!

Hi all, Two days ago I was wondering how many blind red train wheels I have around - since I do not use them very much, there's plenty of them around! Playing a bit with them - I made for pure coincidence a combination of an XL blind wheel with a regular XL train wheel...result is a very "fat" train wheel that was just what I needed for my XXL trains (normal 4,5v and 12v trains with all dimensions multiplied by 2 , and running on 45mm G gauge track). I don't know if anyone else tried this thing before - if it is someone else's original idea - it is equally fine for me! All my XXL trains resemble the real models, but wheels are too thin , and the overall look suffers from this problem. It could be an opportunity to have more original-looking XXL trains. So I decided to try this fat wheel on the model that started all the Lego Eisenbahn world, the iconic 112 - the first and the strongest of them all. It's only a design in LDD, but a prototype is quite ready (with wrong colors ) It's as simple as the original one - my goal was to keep it affordable (On BrickLink - without motor, wheels and shipping - shopping cart is around 35 Euros) and open to multiple options. Inside the fake battery box there's a lot of room. This means that nearly any real battery box (from 4,5v to PuP) can be fitted inside. The two white "dots" you see in the dark part are holes to fit headlights. Chassis is simple, easily adaptable to fit a large variety of motors and there's some room to implement a different gear ratio - currently is 1:1 - I thought this around an M-Motor with standard infrared remote. Unlike the motor chassis used on my G-Scale Toy train, all wheels are driven by gears and not using connecting rods, since the 112 did not have any. Want to put a smoke generator? it's ready to accept it - it is only needed to create an internal support and decide how to power the smoke generator. The open hole near the cabin is to fit the Infrared Remote - it can be covered if not needed. There's also the possibility to totally open the hole and use the standard switch from PF motor set 8293 (emulating the real 4,5v battery box lever). In that case there would be no remote control, but the original feeling of vintage "battery operated train" will increase at its maximum! So having created the design of the 112 locomotive...why do not go further and create a rendering of the 113 whole train? Coupling is quite the same as my G-Scale Toy train Moc, but a bit adapted (even the real 113 has specific hook couplers) . The red parts at the front and rear of locomotive and wagons try to replicate the real couplers of the early blue era, but work fine also as round buffers. Wagons roof can be removed, eventually some seats could be added. For sure lights in the passenger wagon would be a good feature. This train seems the right size for Early 70s Maxifigs!!! This train can run on 600mm Curve radius for 45mm track, but there could be the possibility to run it on standard Lego track too. For sure couplers will need some modifications, and it will require a specifically designed track with large use of flexible elements (like my early XXL trains). All in all, despite being an easy design on LDD, I'm pretty happy of the fat wheels - this is opening an entire world of models that can be rebuilt in XXL style (starting with the Motor Ideas book 242) I hope you like it!!! Ciao! Davide

It's awesome - even out of rails your level of detail is absolutely great!!! Let's hit the streets and have a chocolate milk shake at Wendy's

Great work! It really suggests me a station back in the 80s - I imagine it in a hot summer day!