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PKW

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Everything posted by PKW

  1. PKW
    awesome creation, love how compact it is, just a few questions: how are you controlling the buwizz? i know it has only tablet/smartphone controls and touch controls don't help while driftng are you able to separately control front and rear motors? acquiring some skill you should be able to drift really well in that dusty place also i don't own a buwizz but i have a sbrick and lego lipo BB, is the buwwiz heavier than the original lipo BB? i remeeber i wa a ble to dift a little bit on super smooth floor with a RWB light car (1 xl geared up 1:5 for drive and a super fast/high angle steering with m motor) so i'm curious to try your design with the pieces i have (actually using ps4 controller for the sbrick so i can adjust front/rear traction)
  2. PKW
    I've built it 100% like the digital file,but i'll be driving it with a ps4 remote, so actually 100% speed control and 4 buttons for full forward full backward and a couple of sequences For what I tried it is really fun to drive, but yes it have some "slamming" problem, but still scares my dog even if he is one room away ahahahha Also due to the numerous fights on Christmas i'll be recording it will also fight some smashable (old technic beams and panels) bot so I think it will shows its true power Hope for some teasers next days
  3. PKW
    Sorry for bumping this topic but.... I can' t wait to fill blacksmith out of the arena! (I'm not sure about image size, i'll check it when i'll be back at home) Jokes aside, i'll be able to film fights this Christmas, and I can'tell fill you out of my new arena because wheeled scorpion will be driven by my cousin and i'll be driving blacksmith (I don't want the advantage of knowing how the bot should be driven) other than this I want to know if you run the bot on 9V or 7.2V, because i'm having some issues of the bot slamming its maces only when full breaking and not always....
  4. PKW
    hi all, it has been a long time since my last post but i'm back into building! i'm currently showcasing all my old builds in this topic, feel free to ask any question here! DAY #4 CARBIDE S-replica name: CARBIDE description: replica of uk robot wars competitor carbide, grand finalist of series 8 and champion of series 9 signature move: horizontal spinner weight class: 1kg new technic motor used: 2x M for drive, 1x 9V motor (745699) for weapon drive: 2WD and can drive even if upside down! notes: the side armor is really tough but can be detached from th main body, also the bar has a quite good punch but luckily not enough to break lego pieces, it can remove armor and exposed wheels. also it is driven by an sbrick receiver so it has the advantage of PWM motor controls and no line of sight needed, may also join 3-robot matches due to not providing interferences with IR PHOTOS: LXF FILE FOR LDD: carbide.lxf
  5. PKW
    i think the best way is the old and good "press a button to rebind" function, so whle editing control profiles we can both add channel to an input source that rebind it (like if i press "..." near right trigger a greyed out screen with a writing "press a button on the controller to bind it to this input method" appears and if i press my right trigger now i'll be sure that it is linked correctly) here are the values i found in a gamepad controller program: button | number R1 | 101 R2 | 103 R3 | 108 L1 | 100 L2 | 102 L3 |109 X |97 square |96 triangle |99 O |98 touchpad press |106
  6. PKW
    that's really cool! if i'm right my bot is currently fighting lancelot and its white friend right? i hope the ability of the srimech and the edge-shaped body work good against them, also it is really difficult to compete against so big and powerful robot, glad that is performing well, if you run a small tournament don't forget to create a topic about that!
  7. PKW
    Hi! I finally own a ps4 and was curious to test the controller with my android (and It works) but I can't figure out how to properly set up the controller profile, first of all the triggers seems to be swapped (trigger (R2) activates the trigger button imput(R1) ) and the real trigger button doesn't work, this also happens in a game pad tester app, also it is really difficult to understand which one of the "button 1...2...3..." correspond to the triggers Is there any way to have a live control profile setting? Like if I press a button/trigger the profile will mark that section so I can individuate where I need to put the link to the sbrick channel Example: I open the app and start editing a profile, then I press a random button (I.e the one that correspond to button 7 on the app) and scrolling al button list I can see the "button 7" highlighted Thanks for your attention and for the time you are investing in this useful app!
  8. PKW
    really proud someone is building my bots! you may find some other smaller and simplier bot here unforunately i stopped building lego bots for quite a while but i'm starting again since a new robot wars series began and i had some new inspirations,but wheeled scorpion was too good to be modified! currently is sleeping near the other chassis without any electronics, and i really hope i can film some fights during christmas (i have witch doctor vs cardiac II, wheeled scorpion vs The Blacksmith and hopefully 2 new robots wll join my collection to fight together). about the arena yes, i built a new one that is almost finished and will be used for future battles here it is
  9. PKW
    sorry if i missed it, from safari?
  10. PKW
    At this point using nxt and ultrasonic sensor why shouldn't be accurate? Also in place of a torch, that diffuse a lot of light, there can be a laser maybe with the help of some nebulizer there will be also a nice effect
  11. PKW
    Waiting for a video too! Looks really cool and with great offroad capabilities If you click on the images they redirect to the page. But yes stricekfido maybe adding a link could be the right thing ;)
  12. PKW
    thanks for sharing! it is a good think lego implemented a difference like it did for v2 receiver having cable bending protection on connectors
  13. PKW
    i love the idea of the race and a sort of fast like competition like the indoor car race or the lego technic rally, what about allowing cabled cars with 3rd part wires? also, how can i recognize if a battery pack is "new" or not without stressing it?
  14. PKW
    i agre with what is there, and yes my mechanism lead to a permanent differential "work" but the results is that torque is not distributed equally to both axles and so you have "kind of more torque" to the front one, this is why it slips and the other stall because the dill gives more torque to that one. and off course the effect has to do with friction, how can we easily measure torque if not putting it agains an equal friction and see what "win it" more easily? also i don't know where that mechanism would be used, but i have to agree that is is not suitable for high speeds but for a supercar model or some small rc veichle it should be ok, even for a torque distribution on a drifting car
  15. PKW
    wonderful, i really like the only half stud offset from the two sides, generally i don't like that offset but is almost impossible to have other efficient solution at that scale, also you've made a really good work with the steering!
  16. PKW
    the point is that the differential is there to avoid different speed, also, we won't have more toque than the input at front but just more torque than the rear axle, in this cases the "limited slip" is the friction of the non geared axle to the ground (trough wheels), because as long as it doesn't slips the mechanism tend to give torque to the other wheel, this would give more speed to it but the differential and the fact that both wheels are mounted to the same chassis (so inserting a difference in speed will increase toque required for the faster wheel) prevent this. i hope i can make a super small video to convince you here is it, you can notice that only the geared down wheel slip (more torque) but the car move in a straight line that is the average of the speed of the two wheels (so actually a 1.5:1 ratio is applied to the output of the diff)
  17. PKW
    Sorry for the late reply, there are two options to compare our solutions: if with your solution both motors will be connected together, the we will have a sort of electronic differential, so current may flow more in one motor than in the other (this is not correct but it is a easy-way explanation) so the speed of the two motor will "more or less" balance to the same, and will be helped by the gear ratio. however if the two motors are, for example, powered by different receivers on different batteries then each motor will try to force the other to go at the same speed, with a significant loss of power in my suggestion (that was also the first idea of tomek) the central diff will always balance speed by acting on modifying the amount of torque on the rear axle, in the same way that does when you have a central diff and the front axle is on a slippy surface while the rear one no: it will give more speed to the front one and more torque to the rear one (but since the toque on the rear one is forced to be equal to the resistance on the front axle you car won't move). http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/PKW/MISC/schermata_2017-05-27_alle_13.27.01.png so let's examine the mechanism up here: the differential would give all the speed to the 3:1 geared axle, but doing that the axle would be braked by the other one, so it moves from having 1/3 of the fricion to have the same friction but requires 1/3 of the torque to balance it, at this point is t clear than the 2 axles will move on the same speed but with different relative torque, until the external friction will become too low to keep the geared down axle to slip, at this point we return to the start position where all the speed will be given to the geared down axle, more over it is important to say that with friction x to the ground you need to have less than 3 times the friction on the rear axle to make it slip, but only less than the rear axle friction to the front one to make it slips
  18. PKW
    yes: you need this setup: a differential chase moved by your main motor, and the two differential output A and B (not connected between them so they can rotate independently) one for front one for rear, what you'll get will be that you need same torque one the same output "of the differential" this means that if you gear down A by 1:3 ratio, the other will have 3 time less torque than the first, but mind that the sum of both toque will be equal to the main motor torque minus the amount taken by friction, and since it is a differential both output will tend to rotate at the same speed (when they have same friction, so like 4 wheel on the ground need to move 1/4 of car weight each) in a low friction condition the geared down part will slip "3 times easier than the other" because it actually have more torque. But remember this is not really torque vectoring but only torque distribution (if i'm correct)
  19. PKW
    i know it was me to suggest that, unfortunatelly i bought and return several economic joystick that didn't worked well, but what i noticed (with ps3 controller trough otg) is that "skid steering" is not proportional so while moving slowly even a small tilt of the joystick on the left/right result in a turn, there is no way to make it feel like a real controller? this is what i use on my arduino, note that left/right/front/back are pwm signals [0;255] each one corresponding to one direction of the joystick, i don't know if this can be useful, maybe you can add a toggle for joystick that say "skid steer" and then "select left track...select right track" and it set everything for the control by itself if(back < 0) //cottect the turning direction while go backward but not while pivot turning { sentData.speedmotorLeft = back -right + left; sentData.speedmotorRight = back + right - left; } else if(forward >= 0) // else could be called but else if prevent some strange moving if forward is negative due to wrong initialization { sentData.speedmotorLeft = forward + right -left; sentData.speedmotorRight = forward - right + left; } //recorrect the data not to have more than while 255PWM while non pivot-steering sentData.speedmotorLeft = constrain(sentData.speedmotorLeft,-PWMmax,PWMmax); sentData.speedmotorRight = constrain(sentData.speedmotorRight,-PWMmax,PWMmax); NB2: you don't need the else, that is there to make the tank turn like a car while going backwards
  20. PKW
    JOINTS all technic moccers knows that lego u-joints are fragile and sometimes difficult to use, are you planning something more robust or with more degrees of freedom? will see a new wheel hub with those or the actual form will be leading production for years? CONNECTORS we all love the 2 female cross hole connector but when we need non standard axle lengths (like 4,5 or 10,8 studs) for axles connecting each other in a diagonal way and not in a straight line is really difficult to achieve a good result, more over there is no "extensible axle" that will fit sliding mechanism that vary distances between axle and lego builders invented a lot of solution like this but we will ever see a TLG approved solution aka a new part? this could be an IDEA jim feel free to edit/rewrite my question, i'm not too got at explaining myself in english
  21. PKW
    Wow really cool, what will you use to "pick" objects? Some sort of pincers or a lego suction cup?
  22. PKW
    But remember you are 3rd of IR category! And more over you were first for the first 15-20 votes, planning on making a better graph that shows how votes evolved for the first 6 entries but quite difficult with my actual knowledge
  23. PKW
    thanks you all for the votes! but most important congratulation to all the other contestants for the great entries i've seen in this contest! i was running a program to calculate scores and i can confirm the results (but i was sure there will be no error here!) i made a couple of graphs that i hope you like: in this one you can find the name of the entry and (from the bottom to the top) how much 1s,2s,3s,4s,6s,10s they received on the contest with a dot that is larger more votes the entry has taken in the second there is a spimple graph with names and scores so you can understand better how is the point distribution, some names are overlapping but i think they are readable, sorry for the inconvenience
  24. PKW
    due to building lego combat robots i decided to vote by taste! and i think i found some of the best overall, also a mention to blackout for good srimech and look to thumper for look and to la grange 3001 for unique design! good luck to everyone 9:10 15:6 21:4 30:3 18:2 7:1 10 to bison due to packing 4 functions in a invertible chassis with only 2 motors 6 to maximum impact due to the effective internal compactness and chassis strength of the best of "big bots" 4 to the blacksmith for compactness and strength, one of the most difficult bot to defeat! PS have to admit that i would've placed my bot 2nd in this scoreboard but i think the lack of a proper srimech from other good bot can make it able to take the lead (in my mind)
  25. PKW
    1) right! 2) right! 3) WARING: false assumption! Big (aka destructive) spinner are robots that have a really heavy spinner but not in module, it is all about what % of total weight has got the spinner, let me explain: Uk Heavyweight, a big spinner has a 20-30kg spinning mass UK featherweight, a big spinner has a 4-5kg spinning mass ... ... UK amtweights, a big spinner has a 10g spinning mass! Opponents doesn't depend on weight (if you have to (4) imagine battles) so you should mentally test "how this bot will handle a spinner on the same class? How a flipper? And so on" instead if you want to image fights between contestants (but there should be no real battle as you said so this is not the right way maybe) then it is right that big spinner are in the big class
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