Tommy Styrvoky

I added the structure of the supports below the cylinders, it was somewhat of a challenge to get the geometry to work correctly, but this is a rough setup, and I would like to make them thinner, as they are too thick for the scale, but this is due to the technic structure below them, I may have to transition to stepped tiles as opposed to the slopes that are currently being used. the model is already over 1000 parts, I suspect the finished model will approach 2000-3000 parts. Here's a revised version with thinner support structure.

Great work, lots of interesting features in a compact package, the gear indicator on the roof is a rather good idea, as it is an easy way to determine what gear the vehicle is in. Also how well does the fourth gear work in the differential case, as it is floating, what benefit does it provide besides preventing the collapsing between the two outermost gears inward, and causing them to slip off of the axle? I may have to try using a 1x1 technic beam to replace the two half bushes in my differentials in the future, as I think that was one of the reasons why my last moc had issues with gear skipping in differentials inside the dual differential steering mechanism.

Here's the current progress in designing the valve/cylinder bodies. For some of the parts I think all of the cylinders except the medium pressure cylinder will be round. Otherwise I will first tackle the exterior, and plan some of the internal structure along the process. The current scale for the model is 1/33, and it is 59 studs long.

I have been a bit busy with college over the past few days, though now that I have a break from college, I can think about this a little more. It turns out I used the wrong blueprint, and based off of the diameters of the cylinders (97",84",and 54") I think it would work if built in 1/34 scale, as the diameter in studs would be (9,8, and 5) studs. Is this scale correct, as I would like to know what scale you are building in? As I don't want to start this project in an incorrect scale.

So based on the fact that the low pressure cylinders would be 10 studs in diameter, that means that you would be working at a scale of 1/25 correct? not minifigure scale(1/35-1/45). If so, then yes I see it being possible, though I would still prefer to use an electric motor to power it over vacuum, as this will run quieter, and you would have more chances to preserve the external structure of the engine, rather than compromise with the functionality for ducting air. Though I think it would be enough of a challenge just to get all of the valves and pistons to function correctly and maintain the external appearance, let alone making it robust enough to drive itself under load.

Building a functional pneumatic version of the engine would be impossible, as with a quick look at the scale of the engine, and some of the sizes for the pistons are rather difficult to make an external structure for. I could see a dummy version of this engine being operational with either an electric or external pneumatic engine driving it. potentially the engine could be pnuematcially controlled, though the only way I see that being possible is with some custom 3D printed parts for the cylinders, valves, and cylinder block. As lego parts aren't airtight. I could see about doing a rough layout of the engine in LDD, though I see it may be difficult to make the bores for the cylinders correct, as some parts may be too thick for scale, and will result in undersized parts as a sacrifice to the external structure. Given if you want to use 1/45th scale these would be the challenges, though If the engines were built in 1/35th scale, it would be somewhat easier to do, as the low pressure cylinders would be about 6 studs in diameter. Measurements below are in 1/50th scale, as for rounding the size of the low pressure cylinders.

Between the liftarm and the road wheels is a 4L axle with a stop. https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?id=90241#T=C

You may want to try this solution, it better fits the scale, as the distance between road wheels should be around half of a stud. If it is larger than this, it will make the model too long for its scale. I think this solution is better than the rubber bands, as it's more compact, and it doesn't utilize more of the space along the sides of the hull, instead it uses up the space at the bottom of the hull. Also using tires with rubber on them will make the model look more realistic. I don't know if you have plans to motorize this model, though it will be a challenge to fit everything inside of the rather narrow hull of the T-90. You may need to double up the rubber parts if the model gets too heavy for the suspension. LDD file

Lego RC Strv.-103C by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr This model was quite a challenge to build, It had some mechanical issues with the drivetrain that I wasn't entirely able to sort out prior to college, though I am very pleased with the aesthetics of the exterior of the model. More information on my blog Lego RC Strv.-103C by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC Strv.-103C by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC Strv.-103C by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

Differentiating between the two models mentioned above in Milan's post would be like considering a 1/64th scale Hot Wheels car and a 1/12th scale model kit of the same vehicle. The 1/64th scale model captures the external features of the original vehicle. Though that is the limitations with the scale is all you can achieve is the external aesthetics of the body. While the 1/12th scale model captures the entirety of the original vehicle to the best capabilities of the medium used, it pushes the limits of the material, recreating the detail of every aspect to the original vehicle. This is how I would describe the differences between creator style sets and some of the super-detailed models that should be the main defining factor for what is considered a Lego scale model, not just a rendition that appears to be similar to its real world counterpart. The attention to details and the methodical design process for a large scale model is what defines the challenge and the painstakingly long process that it takes to go from a blueprint to a highly accurate scale model. These models can take weeks if not months to build. I really enjoy seeing the effort and skill that it takes to accurately build something and push the limitations of what is possible with Lego. This often doesn't just involve making the model look nice, at larger scales you encounter the limits of what Lego pieces are structurally capable of, not to mention the added challenge of making the model functional with motors. That adds an additional level of complexity and challenge to the design process. Another definitive factor for the scale modeling forum would be the time investment, If you look at the first model, to build something of that scale and detail is going to take monumentally more time to design and the time carefully planning and scaling the model and its various components will take more effort than the couple hours required to design and build the creator style models below. The time and effort is immense, the research process to replicate details is not something to be taken lightly, and I think placing such smaller models in this form degrades the overall quality for the appreciation to build a detailed scale model is not an easy task to do. Drawing the line between the two models as being scale models may be a little misconceiving, as by the definition of scale models, both would fit, though for a definition of Lego scale models would be the immense amount of effort and time that goes into conceiving a true scale replica of its real world counterpart. Setting a scale limitation isn't the best solution either as for architecture or say ship models, building a 1/25th or bigger is rather improbable to do considering the costs and pieces required. This forum should bring together the small community of the amazing scale modelers, to provide assistance, and direction to inspire others to build scale models of similar stature.

I found specs for the Mark VIII from R.P. Hunnicuitt's "Firepower" that that vehicle could climb an 84% grade. Maybe similar specs would hold true for the mark V, though the Mark VIII has a more powerful V12 engine. Great work on this model, I really like the SNOT work on the sides and the interior makes a good addition for detail. The traverse mechanisms for the sponson guns is a rather creative solution as well. I guess finding the balance between detail and functionality is always a compromise in most cases, though I think this model did an amazing job at obtaining both. I think it is also interesting to compare your first Mark I to this Mark V, and you can see how far you have changed in building style and attention to detail.

I have a question about rigid tubing, I recently got a bunch of longer pieces of rigid tubing, and they were all bent, any good methods to fully straighten out the tubing.

I really like the shape of the hood and the rest spoiler and trunk area. Really nice transitions in the shape of the body. I just watched the video, great work with the editing. I could make some minor suggestions for the 3D renders though I believe you are using Blender as your modeling/ rendering software. I would suggest in the future using a newer version of the Ldraw importer plugin for the Cycles rendering engine, as it appears through the current method you are using, the parts are not using smooth shading, this can be easily set to change the shading to smooth. The newer version will also include a PBR materials, with these you can use HDRI environmental images to create more realistic reflections. Otherwise the animations are great, as I know it can be very frustrating to do something that seems a very simple motion in real life can be a challenge to replicate in a 3D software. I am glad to see more people using Blender as a tool to create animations for Lego models, as the results can be helpful to explain complex parts under greater detail.

What about a "back to the basics" style contest, as most people build modern supercars, and newer construction equipment. Though the roots of automotive design were more mechanical and simple vehicles of the early 1900's era. I think this would make for an interesting challenge, as the bodywork of most vehicles of that time period is rather simple, though there is lots of innovative designs for vehicles and equipment, that I think have never been built in Lego form. I guess everything from size limits to part limits have been placed on contests, what about a timeframe from say 1850-1950, that would give lots freedom for vehicles, steam powered machines or equipment of any sort. Though I guess not everyone likes to build things specifically from real life, but I think the simplicity of the earlier vehicles would offer possibilities of replicating functions in Lego form.

Rebrickable for the steering mechanism/transmission is available. http://www.rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-8474/TommyStyrvoky/integrated-dual-differential-steering-mechanism-with-two-speed-transmission/#comments

This sort of holds true, but after some point there becomes issues with torque to weight ratio limitations.

Here's a GIF of the transmission/steering unit. I will be releasing the LDD on Rebrickable for it later this week.

But stronk tenk not care about gender. Barrel warp is something I have been fighting with almost every model, It has a 32 stud long axle running through it. I guess I could always try custom Aluminum or steel axles, that would work It appears TCLB misread the IS tank wiki... Lol some sort of alternative history where Stalin develops IS-7 in 1944 instead of 1948, and unleashes the massive 130mm armed beast against puny German Panther and King tiger tanks. I bet a couple dozen of these could have easily taken Berlin in 1944 as fast as Germany took Paris. https://thelegocarblog.com/2017/06/05/battle-of-berlin/

Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr After more than half of a year, it is complete. More info on my Blog. Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego RC IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Coming soon by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr 1/35th scale model also built by me for reference. 1/35 Trumpeter IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr 1/35 Trumpeter IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr 1/35 Trumpeter IS-7 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

Would anyome have any good suggestions for removing reflections when using a green screen? As removing the background is easy, though to remove the green reflections on the model, I had to duplicate the photo, and convert one of the images to black and white. then mask the original to add back color to the colored parts. I also used an overlay layer to add the model's base color. Is there an easier method for doing this? As with a more colorful model, this could be more challenging.

Interesting model, regarding the steering issues with the LA's, it may have helped a little if you used differentials instead of a solid axle between the sprockets. Also I have been looking into designing sprockets for the custom tracks, and it is rather difficult to do a conventional teeth outwards based sprocket. I think it would be possible to do something similar to what the T-34 uses, having the track guide horns acting on bars mounted inside of the sprocket. Maybe something like this would work, It protrudes a little beyond the wheel, though I think it would work.

Just a question regarding buggy motors, I know most builders use one lipo per buggy motor, but does the same hold true for AA battery packs, as I may get a couple buggy motors this summer, and I think I will have to get another lipo battery. As I think the issue with the batteries is the thermal sensor correct? As it overloads/overheats from the draw from the buggy motors, and it shuts down. Also this MOC will be quite nasty when complete, it would be interesting if you keep the chassis light, so it will have ridiculous amount of acceleration and potential for catching some air.

I know about Mecabricks, I have used it, and may experiment with it more, though it feels like the materials for it are way too shiny compared to real life bricks. here's a couple more renders. I tried to replicate some of Mustafar's texture for the planet, though It is rather difficult, as the atmosphere is rather weird when exposed to light. Lego Star Wars Interdictor Class Cruiser by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Star Wars Interdictor Class Cruiser by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

My guess is you ran out of space I suggest using a photo hosting site such as Flickr for uploading them, you can store up to 1 Terabyte of content for free.

compared to others I feel quite novice, though I can suggest a few for lighting and basic animation. Here's a couple videos on lighting, as this is one of the most important parts for making renders look more lifelike. Here's a tutorial I did a couple years ago, I should make a new one this summer, as a lot has changed in terms of quality of renders. Also I think this would be fun to experiment with, it uses photography to copy a real life object into a 3d modeling program, such as Blender.