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Tommy Styrvoky

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Everything posted by Tommy Styrvoky

  1. Version 2.0 I completely revised the steering gear, removing the worm gear and the loosely supported steering for the differentials, and increased the gear ratio from 1:2 to 1:3. This made the base unit more compact as well as reinforcing it. As I had some major issues with the previous version in some of my larger models, it failed to function correctly, and resulted in slippage and loss of power. Lego Integrated Dual differential steering and two speed transmission V2 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Integrated Dual differential steering and two speed transmission V2 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Integrated Dual differential steering and two speed transmission V2 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Integrated Dual differential steering and two speed transmission V2 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr V2.0 LDD file I still need to sort out if the current option that I have for the gear selector will function correctly.
  2. They were a lot more common in WWII though this meant that most had a power shaft running from the engine bay in the rear directly through the center of the crew compartment to power the transmission and steering gear in the front. With modern vehicles, it's more common to have the drive sprocket located closer to the motor, as this allows for easy maintenance, and it helps lower the profile of the hull. Smaller AFVs like IFVs like the Bradley, Scimitar, and M113 usually have their drive sprocket in the front, as the motor is located in the front, and this allows for room for carrying equipment and troops in the back. One of the other applications in MBTs would be the Merkava series, as locating the powerpack (engine+transmission+steering gear) in the front provides additional material for crew protection from projectiles. Other wise with most other MBTs and larger vehicles, it is common to have a rear sprocket drive, as this allows for easy removal of the engine and transmission as a single unit, also the engine is much larger, so to have a frontally mounted system would mean that the turret would be shifted to the back of the hull more. Here's a similar powertrain layout to the E-100 in the Tiger II Also and having a frontally mounted transmission in a thick welded enclosure lead to interesting challenges to field maintenance see for example with the Panther, Tiger II, and planned for the E-100, where the transmission has to be fed through a small plate in the upper hull. Another case of of how impractical transmission installation on German vehicles are with the restoration of the Jagdpanther from the Weald Foundation. Or another example with the Tiger I where you needed to remove the turret to gain access to the transmission,
  3. It's just the nature of tracks are being pushed more from the front, rather than being pulled from the rear. This is dependent on where the track sag is, as on real vehicles, the track sag isn't as present, and the weight of the tracks has a greater effect, though with my model, It is because of tension, and the relative size of the track pitch being too large for the scale. There's not too much that can be done to solve this besides further tensioning them, and I didn't want to make them too tight, as that would also hinder performance. Here's some good footage of a German Panther's suspension in operation, this illustrates the similar setup as in the E-100, with the frontally mounted sprocket.
  4. It was the only way to fit the torsion bars, It was a creative solution, as I previously had tried to use some reductions, though It had issues with slipping, so I removed it, and used the angled solution.
  5. Blender with the ldraw importer tool, and the advanced shaders pack from Mecabricks. I didn't include the crane, as I was basing my model off of the one from the drawings from Hilary Doyles Panzer Tracts 6-3.
  6. Lego RC E-100 super heavy tank by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr I have been busy with my latest model, the WWII German prototype vehicle E-100. This one being my second rendition of it since 4 years ago, when I started building MOCs. This one is smaller and greatly improved scale accuracy. more information and photos on my blog. http://tommystyrvoky.blogspot.com/2018/02/e-100-super-heavy-tank.html instructions https://www.rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-13061/TommyStyrvoky/rc-e-100-super-heavy-tank/#comments The process of rendering all of the animations for this video took some time, as I rendered all of this on my laptop, the end result, each frame requiring about 5 minutes at only 720p , and well there are a few thousand frames rendered for the animations, and I also completely redid my channel outro with the new PBR shaders from Meccabricks. Lego RC E-100 super heavy tank by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr And after all of that time rendering I realized that I forgot to include the second turret hatch... This is probably one of my most accurate vehicles so far, given the constraints of lego, and the mechanical challenges. Though I am still striving to do better in the future. Lego RC E-100 super heavy tank by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr and a comparison with blueprints from the real one. E-100 Blueprint overlay by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr
  7. I am suggesting a better solution to that from the video, the one from the video is too tall, however it can be made smaller.
  8. This is an attempt at making the W16 with the current cylinder blocks, It still isn't 100% structurally sound, though just a proof of concept that it is possible to make it smaller than what is currently portrayed in their marketing for it. A true W16 with one crank shaft isn't possible with current lego parts, so I think It would require 4 or 2 seperate crank shafts. I think from the current layout from TLG, it uses 3 crank shafts.
  9. I think the engine will be even more oversized after adding all of the accessory components. As look how low the top of the block sits, now try adding proportionally accurate parts on top of that. As I believe the parts seen on the the top are components of the exhaust manifolds and catalytic converters. Then end result would amount to an engine that is probably 12-14 studs tall. I think one of the first modifications to make to this will be to replace the entire engine with a much smaller single stud wide cylinder bores, this would also allow one to achieve the offset between the top and bottom cylinder banks, by adding a 1/2 stud offset. Though my best guess is that lego will omit them, as it is "cooler" to see the moving pistons; as if this set is going to be pushed around the floor, it will just sit in someones display case.
  10. I presume this will also mean that there will be another contest for Bugatti, just like after the Porsche was released.
  11. I hope so aesthetically, but I thought it was a lot of fun seeing this community reverse engineering parts of the Porsche from just a few clips of video.
  12. I did some color corrections to it, and increased the luminosity of the image. They appear yellow from the original footage.
  13. I'm entirely sure about the design for the W16, it looks too tall for the scale. Also it appears that the individual is holding part of the transmission. And the rear axle seems to use the same hubs as before, also you can see some components of the rear axle's driveline including the differential, maybe the W16 is driven off the back of the differential?
  14. I know it supports one gamepad, though I think there may be an issue with the phone being controlled by 2 gamepads simultaneously, then the app would need to differentiate between the inputs from the controllers. The app supports multiple Sbricks, though from my experience, it can lead to the app only sending signals to one of the bricks at a time. It would just be easier to have one controller per phone per Sbrick. You may have better luck getting a more direct answer from their forums. https://social.sbrick.com/forums
  15. My stance is that I would like a good mixture of functionality and aesthetics. As if one attempts to fit too much complexity into a model, It can compromise the aesthetics greatly. However, it all depends on the goals of the original builder, were they wanting to model an actual vehicle, or did they want to replicate a function in a vehicle? As this will determine one's mindset for building. I feel that the lack of responses on some posts could be due to the commonality of topics found on this form, as one can see from the HOF, a large portion of models are cars, thus one may not see as many responses on those topics, due to them saturating this forum. As with these vehicles, the functionality is limited to what the real car can do. Then during these cases, differentiation between models will depend on their aesthetics, rather than the functionality, as if the functionality is identical, the aesthetics sets one apart from the other. I understand that everyone has their own niche of building subjects, however, more unique vehicles will receive more attention. If builders want to stand out, the functionality should be the main focus when presenting the model, though some viewers will just see the aesthetics at a glance, and that will sway their view.
  16. I would have liked to use pneumatics in my model, or linear actuators, though what I am suggesting is to use the gearing between the torsion bars from my model and the pneumatics attached to a linkage directly on the gears, to make it more like the real vehicle's suspension setup, as with the OP's configuration, all of the swing arms will move the same amount, due to the same amount of travel per cylinder.
  17. The L motor appears to be for a pneumatic pump, and the servo would be for the valve. As with this vehicle uses a hydropneumatic suspension. The suspension arms would have small pneumatic cylinders. as I wondered why the suspension swing arms are facing backwards instead of their correct orientation. I would suggest with this model that it will be underpowered due to the L motors, it would be easier to just easier to mount XL motors directly to the rear idlers, or use a 3:1 ratio, as it appears to be enough space for that between the sides of the hull. If the suspension arms were located as they should be on the real vehicle, this would solve the issues with space for the motors. And you could interlink the arms with a 3:1 gearing between the two, and only use one pneumatic cylinder per 2 suspension arms, however this would require a large cylinder instead. See the layout from the internals of my STRV. 103C below. Here's the progress that I got to on the file of it prior to giving up on it, as I wasn't impressed enough with the performance of the transmission, it resulted in lots of slipping, and the suspension was burdened too much by the weight. I have more photos of the rest of the model if you want, showing all of the internal and external assemblies, which I had intended to use for making the rest of the instructions with. https://www.bricksafe.com/files/Tommy_styrvoky/Strv-103C.lxf Lego RC Strv.-103C by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr
  18. I have the Strv. S1, I can say it is rather unique to play with the siege mode, It requires some planning as to where to set up, and when to flee, though the speed is nice.
  19. Maybe a modular chassis design would work, as that would give people more flexibility on choice of suspension,transmission, and steering.
  20. I wonder if this would work as a solution, there is some part clipping in the digital build, though I think this could work.
  21. Thanks, that works, I also works just to delete the LS.dat files from below show lsynth. I am also getting an error message when trying to hide the parts from the parts list, as I am substituting a part. Error 0 !LPUB PLI PART BEGIN IGN The substation line works, though I wish I wouldn't get this error, as every time I have to manually click it to proceed.
  22. I am working on instructions for a model that uses some LSynth constraints for power functions cables, and the constraints are visible in Ldview. How can I hide the constraints from the instructions in lpub?
  23. I have one of these motors, for some reason the circuit board split in half, and I had to bypass the resistor. It sounds just like my motor, they are kinda noisy with the gearing inside of them.
  24. I was just including the hub structure, it is missing the belt wheel and pins for both, though I thought this was a more compact design, and it would fit nicely in the hub.
  25. I was wondering with the hub design, isn't there issues with part collisions inside of the hub, as LDD won't allow that part to be placed inside. Maybe an alternative design like this would work the same function, but fit better? Maybe for gearing it you could use the turntable itself for getting some reduction. Another thought would be if you plan to use a sbrick or buzwizz, I think it would be possible to decrease the maximum power to the front motors if they are on seperate channels, thus the max speed being the same as the rear motors with the reduction.
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