Tommy Styrvoky

The now change $50 per year. Probably will end up archiving all of my photos, then reupload them to imgur, though that will take like 40 hours to do with the 50 imagine s per hour cap.

Well RIP Flickr, I guess they did some changes, and made the free accounts only able to host 1K photos, time to find another hosting site to migrate 2k of my photos to.

Part 44728 fixes the top issue, though not sure what to do yet for the bottom of the sponson.

Use 1x1 brick with headlight to inset the slopes by 1/2 a plate. Also for your choice of control, I would suggest getting a Sbrick, as it is cheaper, and it is more flexible with the ability to program via the profile designer. The only major advantage for the Buwizz is it offers a higher voltage output, and an integrated battery assembly. As with your model you will need at least 2 of whatever you choose to control your model with. Also the 8z gear you are using to drive the traverse gear won't work, you need a 12z and 20z both in half bevel and this part to brace them.

It is probably possible to do, but you would need to almost have it shaped like an arch to anticipate the flex in the chassis, or use lots of stacked technic bricks, though I am not sure how well such a chassis would hold up when taking turns, as there could be too much flex side to side, leading to a failure. I think with such a project, it's better to be on the conservative side, as if this were to fail, it would be a waste of resources. Now time to have both cars race and see which performs better.

It's interesting that they are running the motors on 12v, also I wonder how efficient the array of motors are in this.

For me, being an avid scale scale modeler as another one of my hobbies, obtaining external dimensions is the first main goal for my MOCs, second would be functionality, depending on the significance of the functionality to the unique identity to the subject I am building can influence the importance of that versus the exterior. I believe there are many cases where the medium limits the functionality and external appearance, so some compromises must be made to accommodate those flaws. As of more recent years, I prefer to mitigate this effect, as this has been improved by having more funding to explore other options. As I currently would view a tolerance within a couple studs for good renditions of a subject, given with smaller scales, this isn't always avoidable due to the internals of the model and the fixed/bulky constraints we have for the power functions system.

Maybe it's the fact that some builders strictly adhere to references and documentation to ensure accuracy of their models, claiming something that clearly doesn't resemble the subject tarnishes the reputability of the model and others like it. Maybe that's why many individuals aren't so impressed with some of Lego's renditions of the Porsche or Bugatti, as they know it can be done better, Yet the masses of non-Lego individuals flocked to those models, as if those were the ultimate rendition of their respective vehicle. Those models are deemed close enough to be considered acceptable, but if you look the disappointment of the Austin Martin released for the James Bond creator set, it vaguely resembles the DB5, failing to capture the curvature and elegance of the real world vehicle, but it does replicate the functions... is that justified? That depends on your rationale for purchasing a set. Basically you can call your model whatever you want but thats only an opinion. As for some functionality, I can see this being a compromise, if you want to justify making a very specific function that compromises the external appearance of the subject, though if one truly attempts to replicate something they will mitigate this, or find a different solution.

If it looks like a duck, quacks like a duck, then it must be a duck... Such fallacy logic.

You first upload it, then go to your pages, next find the file you want, and right click on the download icon, and there should be an option for copy link address. Finally paste that to your post to share with others.

This may work, though the elevation mechanism needs some work, but a novel solution with the traverse axle behaving as the elevation actuator. https://www.bricksafe.com/files/Tommy_styrvoky/Mk V sponson gun traverse.lxf

I use a bunch of different software, LDD is nice for quick simple designs, though I use Stud.io for doing quick renders and more difficult connections, and sometimes Ldraw based programs for exporting into instructions or Blender for making photorealistic renders. For mounting the M motors, I think you could position one below the sponson with a worm gear reduction to traverse it, and mount another one directly behind the sponson for the elevation. I have a couple thoughts for the elevation, though I am not sure at the moment. It appears you are hitting enter after each sentence. like this.

It still appears to be too weak of a construct, it will collapse when you apply any downwards load on the sprocket, this is a better solution, though it still needs to be tied in more to to the tan part. I would suggest using a 7l half beam and using that to connect both sides as this will help provide a rigid connection to the idler, and also use this to tie into the tan portion. Also the top and bottom pieces still need to be connected. https://www.bricksafe.com/files/Tommy_styrvoky/MK V track tensioner.lxf

I may suggest looking into the Power Functions system, they offer more powerful and compact motors, for this project you will probably need 2 XL's to drive it, and 4 M motors to power the sponson guns, maybe one extra M motor if you want to have a fake engine. For controlling it, you have several options, you could use Lego's solution, and have 3 IR receivers, or use a 3rd party solution, and have much greater distance of control via 2 S bricks. Both systems have a similar cost for controlling 4 outputs, though the Sbrick offers a greater range, but it requires you to have a phone or tablet to control the model via bluetooth. Then for powering the model, one AA or rechargeable battery box would work, for the Sbricks you will need to get two extension cables to power them. Looking at the photo I posted above, you could hide the drive motors where the fuel tanks are in the rear, and all of the M motors could be hidden between the supporting walls for the suspension. The control system could be hidden in the rear of the fighting compartment, though In my design, I would utilize the Sbrick, as with the IR system, the top of the receiver needs to be exposed for the remote, this can make it more difficult, with the Sbrick you could hide it in the middle of the model. As for my project, with most things have planned are currently put on hold because of college. Basically from what I have said about the design of this model was my intentions for the project.

The sponson gun housing looks undersized, maybe something along the size of this would work better, though if you are mostly basing it off of @Sariel's model, I think that would help improve it more, as that appears to be under-scaled. Also with motorizing it, it shouldn't be too difficult, though I think it is possible to hide most of the electric stuff in the sponsons, As both m motors for operating the sponson guns could be fitted there, and maybe 3/5 of the XL motor too. If you want, I could look into that. As this would allow for a mostly full interior, minus the space needed for the Sbrick, IR, and LIPO. As you can see there would be plenty of space for more details in the interior. https://www.bricksafe.com/files/Tommy_styrvoky/Mk V sponson gun.lxf

Glad to hear it works, if it is cheap enough, I could increase the axle size by a 1/10th of a mm, as that's an easy fix. Also depending on the material, I think some polyamides can be dyed, so you could make it red if you want.

From what I have inferred, the new sugar cane derived plastics are polyethylene based, thus being more flexible than ABS, also someone mentioned that axles are a nylon resin, thus I don't think they will replace the traditional abs parts with this. Though I think they are moving to a more sustainable means of producing abs or similar material.

Stl file for it here. https://www.bricksafe.com/files/Tommy_styrvoky/Boost motor spindle.stl

I will upload the file tomorrow,( 8 hours from now) and you can find a local place to do it for you, though depending on what method you decide to print it could determine if some changes may need to be done for the axle hole or splines.

Here's an updated drawing, I just want to make sure that the diameter of the edges of the splines are 1mm and the depth of the axle well is 7.8mm, as everything else is corrected now. From some of my previous prints the tolerances were within ±.05mm so it should work just fine if all of the measurements are correct. I used @efferman's dimensions for the axle hole, as those are slightly different from yours. replacement spindle for Lego boost motor Drawing by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr If everything checks out, then here's the link for the part on Shapeways. https://www.shapeways.com/product/ZS3TT7SKG/boost-motor-spindle-replacement?optionId=67504149&li=shop-inventory

Another thought is for many outputs is a multiplexer, like for EV-3's, as there are 6 pins in the connectors, this could work to power multiple motors individually.

I installed the older style valves and that made a big difference. I changed out the valve switching design and greatly reduced the form of the entire engine,It now operates at 1000 rpm at 80 psi. The older valves are more difficult to open up and managed to snap 2 light duty #17 chisel blades in half opening them. I am not sure why the older valves are smoother, but It could be something with the rubber component that seals the ports. The torque is rather decent when being geared down, it seems to perform similarly to the torque of an XL motor. I will be releasing instructions for it later, as this is a small enough model, I should be able to do PDF instructions. video of it running LPE I4 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr I am thinking of installing it in this vehicle, the Czech Panzer 38T, this vehicle uses a 6 cylinder, though my design fits and allows for better scale of 1/10th. There are still a bunch of mechanical decisions I need to make. I want to stay mostly purist, however I really want to replicate the operation of the transmission and regenerative steering mechanism. To do this it would require several 3D printed planetary gear rings that would compose the transmission and steering housings, otherwise I could go for a standard 3+R speed transmission, and still replicate the steering system using differentials instead of planetary gears. Other parts that will need to be designed and printed are the sprockets, as to make the geometry correct and provide a good interface for powering the model. The only major issue with the purist solutions is the available space, I would like to replicate the interior too, but I only have about a 6X6 area for the transmission design. It could still work with regular driving rings, if I were to run all of the connections in the transmission at a high rpm, low torque and greatly reduce speed and increase torque prior to powering the steering system, to greatly reduce strain on weak components.

I hope they will keep both the powered up line and the power functions lines, as if they decide to phase out power functions, that would be really irritating to do anything with more than 2 motors, not to mention these components are probably more expensive. I wonder if this is there way of preventing 3rd party controllers from being used. it also seems that the PU hub is worse than the Sbrick Buwizz in terms of range. The ironic thing is I have seen several posts on Lego's FB with models involving Sbricks and Buwizzes. As if they kept the two lines seperate, one could be better tailored to coding and education, the other for more simple general purpose motorization.

Done with the basic shapes, just need correct dimensions of the spline, collar and axle connector.

Stls suck for modifying, as nothing is ever square or parallel. And I already looked in the ldraw library it would only take like 15min to model it up.