Tommy Styrvoky

I think the red brick/blue looks a little too desaturated, did you accidentally convert the color scheme from RGB to CYMK, as when I have used photoshop, I had that issue occasionally with it desaturating the colors. Otherwise it looks great and simple design.

If you want to work in smaller spaces, I suggest getting a AAA or rechargeable battery, as that helps a lot with conserving space for other components. Maybe also use L motors for the drive sprockets, as XL may be a little too powerful for the size of the model, and you could have potentially better performance/reduced size with L motors (the model doesn't have to be 13 studs wide to accommodate the XL motors.) I guess we all have to start somewhere, and I can say some of my first vehicles weren't the prettiest. Skill comes with trial and error, So build a few more renditions, and you will eventually become more familiar with solutions, and refine your design.

no, they are practically the same in every way, except for minor name differences, the box art is basically the same too, with same font and layout.

Impressive amount of details, I love all of the hidden belts/details that are hidden behind the side panels.

I think this could only be the tip of the iceberg, as this could have been brought on by all of the people in the US buying knockoff copies of the Porsche. I think the best way to stop this could be potentially be because of people in the technic community comparing the sets, and giving publicity/revenue. I think it is important to compare the manufacturers, but is it really necessary for everyone to do a review of the Porsches together, as I think we may have created our own problems with advertising them, buy creating reviews of the sets. As I didn't know about the knockoffs until the Porsche set came around. This whole problem may have been spread by us, our viewers see the alternative to the expensive lego set, and purchase that over the lego set. I know there was a big issue with 3rd party models being purchased and shown in the Lego Technic group (A large portion of the posts are just of people's new technic sets, and I would assume most people look up to some of the technic builders here on Eurobricks). To solve this problem, I think we should try limit the reviews of 3rd party copies, and I think it would be defiantly helpful to have a library of parts comparisons, to determine 3rd party copies vs official parts, to help educate people with potential Bricklink issues involving 3rd party copies that are circulating. Also the 3rd party part's aren't just technic, nearly every large Lego line has 3rd party knockoffs, Star Wars for example. It's going to be difficult to approach this, as if you create awareness, you may also potentially create an interest. One way of doing this could be by making it very clear that these products will not be acceptable in the Lego community, as it's harmful to the Lego company. Though it could lead to awareness increasing the publicity for the company. I guess it would probably best to go through with educating people by not buying copies of existing parts. Maybe some of the major technic channels could release a video about the content, if they wanted to, as this will have to be a group effort. I don't think there is anything legal we can do about it, though I know I saw an brickset article about Lego confronting the issue in Chinese courts.

And I thought it was bad enough when a person is selling your MOC and claiming it as their own, but a company doing that... I think thats a first. I think this is only the beginning of lepin copying MOCs, and selling them as their own. What next, them copying Sbricks, and Efferman's 3D printed parts? I wonder if this influx of decent 3rd party copies of existing parts will infiltrate Bricklink. Though hopefully most stores have the decency to sell lego parts only.

you could use two 60z turntables connected to the wheels, and drive them with a worm gear. That would have not as much backlash, and have a 1/60 reduction, for fine adjustments.

I guess If you wanted to see lego fly, a glider would work, just use an RC plane to taxi the glider and release the glider in the air, so technically lego could fly, though not powered flight. As micro motors or m motors could be used to power control surfaces. I feel the same functionality could have been in a much better design that doesn't require cutting pieces.

Yeah, I guess we could always ask Jim and see what he thinks about it.

I built it in physical parts, but then I fixed the issues with it digitally.

I don't mean a new topic for every time someone spots stolen content, I would suggest a single topic that is limited to just information on the channel, not everyone's speculation on the stolen content, just strictly for reporting found content. It could also be used for suspicious activities.

I wonder if there should be a pinned topic on this forum that links to stolen content. As it would be a good idea for people to have it ina single location see if their content has been stolen, and reported.

I guess to put it into context, the if both the drive motors are L motors. Here's a chart of the outputs at different speeds, this may help to put it into perspective, as a L motor has an output of 272 rpm at 9V according to Sariel's site. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1tia58woCgtb_IcP23C_HnrMuya34GbS6_L_fACKX1rI/edit?usp=sharing I think I did the math correctly for this, as the values seem reasonable.

Interesting use of torsion bars.

It could be fast enough, unfortunately I just returned to college, so I don't have the pieces on hand, though I could make an animation. Basically if the final drives were removed, the outputs would be 1:1.25, and 1:3.75 in low gear, so you could just multiply that by the rpm of the motor of choice. Though the steering motor may be sort of slow.

I implemented the fixes, and made it one stud shorter, I also reinforced the worm gear casing, and added supports to it. V1.1 V1.1 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr V1.1 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr V1.1 LDD file

that could be an issue, I guess you could always rotate the assembly 90°, so it doesn't interfere with it, that would make a lot of sense why the steering mechanism is having issues, it could be stalling out the mechanism when the differentials rotate.

I have always wanted a compact combined transmission + dual differential steering module for tracked vehicles. Though the biggest problem with linear setups is there is a seperate transmission and subtractor module, this is rather spacious and takes up a large space inside of a vehicle's hull. The main requisites for my current solution is that it needed to fit within a 12 stud wide space (walls included) as this is a very common width of the hull for armored vehicles. It also needed to have the option to mount several XL motors to power it. I know a Sbrick will easily solve the solution, though a complex mechanical solution is more intersting. I present a WIP solution, I have tested it, and it has some issues with the worm gear for neutral steering, and needs some reinforcement to some of the connections. It features a 1:1 ratio, and 3:1 ratio for the transmission. The biggest current issue is with the steering mechanism, the test chassis I was using was rather long, so neutral steering just resulted in lots of slippage in the worm gear's mounting. Though when the vehicle was driving and steering, it seemed to function correctly with little slippage. I believe there is also some slippage between the last clutch gear and 20z gear that drives the differentials, I have attempted to reinforce the structure, and it mitigated skipping of teeth, though it still encounters the issue when the mechanism is nearly stalled. Green is the drive motor input. Orange is the steering motor input. V1.0 Integrated dual differential steering with 2-speed transmission by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Integrated dual differential steering with 2-speed transmission by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Integrated dual differential steering with 2-speed transmission by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Integrated dual differential steering with 2-speed transmission by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr LDD file if someone wants to improve the model. I implemented the fixes, and made it one stud shorter, I also reinforced the worm gear casing, and added supports to it. V1.1 V1.1 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr V1.1 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr V1.1 LDD file Version 2.0 I completely revised the steering gear, removing the worm gear and the loosely supported steering for the differentials, and increased the gear ratio from 1:2 to 1:3. This made the base unit more compact as well as reinforcing it. As I had some major issues with the previous version in some of my larger models, it failed to function correctly, and resulted in slippage and loss of power. Lego Integrated Dual differential steering and two speed transmission V2 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Integrated Dual differential steering and two speed transmission V2 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Integrated Dual differential steering and two speed transmission V2 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Integrated Dual differential steering and two speed transmission V2 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr V2.0 LDD file

I wonder if it could be from heat warping, after the part was ejected from the mold. If there were mold issues, there would be say misaligned mold seams, or flash on the seams.

I think it depends on the amount used, say you use a single part of a model, like a transmission. I feel there should be some credit, depending on if it's a complex sequential transmission, though if it's just a simple 4-speed that has been used by lots of builders, credit isn't probably necessary; unless it has some special modification to it. Though If a builder takes an entire chassis, then if the builder has any common sense, then they should provide credit for that. I personally think that builders should search for their own solutions, as it adds to the fun of creating your own MOC. There are some cases where it is inevitable that a certain solution only works. I think builders should provide credit for a complex mechanism, or very unique one. Though if it's common, it would be appropriate to provide credit, though not necessary. I will say if someone is going to copy an entire MOC, and make minor modifications to it and claim it as their own; that is deliberately wrong.

It sort of helps if you use a spring to apply tension on the elevation mechanism, as that eliminates the lash in the LA/gears, though with the construct of pin joiners, you can put rigid hose or bars inside to limit bowing. The best non-purist solution would be to get a solid piece of brass/aluminum tubing, and place that inside instead of the lego rigid hose.

or any sort of Lucasfilm logo....Indiana Jones... Nazis....

Well the closest thing you will get to a tank would be the tracked racer with a mounted MG. There are plenty of people that want Lego to produce military models. Though I personally think It's good that they don't make them, as I feel they are limited in the design process, due to meeting requirements for production. A model of this scale can be upwards of 2000-3000 pieces, depending on the detail and complexity. Also Lego gets enough flak for including fictional "violent" sets... just Imagine the outrage of people seeing real vehicles. I think it's important for people to be educated on the history, and there's an impressive amount of innovation and engineering that occurred during WWII. As with the A39 tortoise, T28 Super heavy tank, or the Maus, countries were pushing the limits of what is practical, for a vehicle in terms of armor and weight. WWII basically defined what was practical, and effective in combat, eventually leading to the modern MBT's combination of less armor, higher mobility, and a powerful armament. Armored/military history isn't everyone's cup of tea, though the engineering feats are quite impressive.

Great job at such a small scale, I wonder if it would be possible to make the suspension operational with rubber axle connectors as the torsion bar mounting points, as the suspension is rather complex for the A39, and uses a parallel linkage system to raise the torsion bars above the swing arms. It would be fun to build a really large scale model of this, or any vehicle, as there are so many mechanisms that can be included at a larger scale, though you have to deal with the mechanical power to weight issues.

You could always use something like this for tensioning the tracks. Lego Panther Ausf. G 1/15 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr or this( look at the rear of the model) Lego STuG Ausf F 1/15 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr