Tommy Styrvoky

Found a better shot of the new parts. Couldn't find a part count for the clutch gears, though only 2 of the new rotary style change over catches and 20z clutches... I want those so badly, though they are going to cost a fortune unless Lego releases them in other sets. LEGO Technic 42083 Bugatti Chiron by Ryan Smith, on Flickr

Yup, there's also one behind the rear differential, and maybe a 3rd one located below in the transmission, that isn't visible.

I am almost tempted to get this set, just for those gears and the selector switches, though I guess I can just wait and see on bricklink, my guess is those parts will be $5-10 each.

The top/bottom selectors are opposite, so you could make something work, it may require a few driving rings extensions. Maybe cross routing power through the other sets of driving rings, otherwise this would have great applications for a distribution gearbox.

I can confirm there are at least 2 of the new 20z gears, I can see 5 of the gears in the selector are 16z, one is 20z, and I believe another one would be a 20z, as looking at the gearing coming off of it. There's another gear that I can't see, but It probably is another 16z because it is located 3 studs below and 3 studs across from the 20z above it.

I saw some more leaks on the technic fb group, it appears the transmission to have 8 speeds, it features new 20z clutch gears, and a new rotary style changeover selector for the transmission. It appears to have two of these parts, each acting on two driving rings. They appear to have 4 different states, on two of the sides they position the driving rings in the center, and on the other two sides it is to either respective side. This would allow for potentially building a transmission with 4 driving rings around the selector, for a very compact 8 speed transmission. I am really looking forward to the new parts. Also am not too fond about the color selection for the internal bits, lots of regular blue, orange and lime green bits along with black and gray.

For 3D printing I have had some experience with fdm printing, and I have had some success with printing Lego compatible parts. With PLA they feel similar in strength. With ABS I have had issues with warping and the overall appearance looks worse than PLA. It wouldn't be too expensive to get a decent fdm machine such as the lulzot mini, or Prusa Mk3. Also one of nice things is if your part breaks, it only takes 10-30 minutes to replace the part (depending on the size).

I built an I4 from the switching design I used on the V8, it works ok, though It isn't very powerful. I will get some of the large cylinders later this summer and experiment with them. It was probably around 500-800 rpm though I think the main issue is the stiffness in the switches gasket, The V2 switches are stiffer than the V1 ones. LPE I4 by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

I got it running on 4 cylinders, not too much power though. I will probably get the large cylinders for powering a large model. It had a lot of friciton, and I was running it at around 100psi. LPE V8 running on 4 cylinders. by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

I tried building a V8, from the current V12, and I think the issue is the valves are still too stiff, I will try and remove some material around the selector pivot in the valves. As I got that to turn over slowly, though it would still get hung up.

I am currently working on a V12 LPE for future models, the engine is only 50% plumbed with tubing, and I had an unfortunate issue with one of the cylinders getting damaged during the modification process. I have a replacement one coming, though I guess I learned my lesson to read the contents on silicone spray bottles, It turned out the one I got had some acetone in it, and I accidentally applied too much to the inside of the cylinder, that resulted in jamming the cylinder and marring the sidewalls. Even with 5 of the 11 cylinders plumbed, I am having issues with getting it to turn over, there seems to be a decent amount of friction, though this could be caused by a variety of issues, such as the remaining unpowered cylinders. At 4 bar I am getting some movement, and the timing is correct, though It struggles to travel more than 90 degrees without some assistance. I have modified the cylinders and the valves, to improve performance, though I think the main cause of the friction is in the sliders/camshaft. The 120° crankshaft added an interesting challenge, though I am debating if it is a better choice to redesign into a V8 with a more robust 90° crankshaft, as I think that would solve a lot of the issues with friction, or to reconfigure to 6 or 8 large cylinders, as I am not sure how powerful this will be, though If it struggles to turn over, it may not have much power at all. As this is being designed for a future model of mine, I would like to remain accurate by having 12 cylinders, though If it fails to provide enough power, I will compromise to use 6-8 large cylinders, as the net power output I am looking for would be the equivalent of 4 XL motors. Current progress, I will try to finish up plumbing the remaining cylinders sometime in the next week, though after that I won't be able to do anything else for another two months due to 3D printing research at my college over the summer. V12 LPE by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr V12 LPE by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

I wonder if when you rotate the switches to a certain angle, they would be removable like for a modular system with interchangeable inputs, that would make sense, as with the previously mentioned patient that would make sense. Maybe this would also allow for you to rotate them 90 degree and work, as that would be cool too for steering models

Speaking of model cars, I have been trying to get my hands on the Aoshima Interceptor from Mad max. A kit that retailed for $30 from 2013 is marked up everywhere for $150+... seems kind of ridiculous. I am thinking it would be possible with the all of the CAD work I have been doing recently, I could order 3D printed resin parts for a lot of the parts for a conversion of a $16 Revell 1970 Ford Torino GT, though It would require some bodywork on the front hood area, and I think the wheelbase would need to be shortened too. Just wondering if anyone would have good suggestions for other car models that would be closer to the bodywork, so it would require less work on my part. Also life has been rather busy with college finals, so yay only 4 exams then summer for me= more studying for entrance exams for dental school, and maybe research with 3D printing strength in relation to layer height/printing velocity at college over half of the summer. Also may get to print a 6.5 ft model of the Saturn V rocket over the summer/next year, as that will be one of my projects, as next year is 50th anniversary of Apollo 11. Also am planning to do a large scale model of the LEM and Columbia modules with an interior with cutaway.

Torsion bar offers a lot of advantages, such as variable stiffness, and relatively compact arrangement in a hull though you may want to look into Horstmann suspension if you are looking for a compact externally mounted suspension. a vertical travel setup like yours makes it difficult to mount anything above the tracks due to the large travel distance. a long travel bell-crank suspension like on some of the later war Japanese vehicles offers a lot of travel. The MS-1 or T-18 utilizes a similar setup to your design, however it has bogies, another issue with the design you have is when the vehicle comes into contact with a step it will exert a lot of force horizontally on the suspension arm, that is why with the t-18 you see the first road wheel features another dampener angled to improve the way the force is transmitted in both the horizontal and vertical fashion.

If anyone wants to create their own parts, these are the parts I used in Autodesk Fusion 360 to cut the holes for the axles and the pins. Fusion 360 is free for students and makers, so basically anyone who won't be using it for a large business. The basic dimensions for a technic liftarm are 7.8mm tall*7.25 wide( when looking directly at the pin holes from the side, and spacing between holes is 8mm. https://www.bricksafe.com/pages/Tommy_styrvoky/cad3d-printed-parts

Yeah my intentions are for a drive sprocket, the horrible jerky performance is true of all of the sprockets, it's just because of the the nature of the position of the track pins, they are flush with the contract surface, thus when rotating the sprocket, it causes it to be displaced vertically,

The file is now public.

3D printed 8 tooth sprocket by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Something that I have long wanted to be a part is now a reality, as I have been doing a lot of 3D printing and modeling for my college's physics and chemistry departments. There have been so many models I have built where I had to compromise the scale due to having to size up the scale to accommodate the 10t sprocket. I have uploaded the model, for all who wish to 3D print it, the printer I used was a Lulzbot TAZ 6, as this resulted in some expansion in parts being printed in PLA, so I am unsure how well the tolerences will be if someone was to print from shapeways, as this model is intended for a cheaper FDM printer. 3D printed 8 tooth sprocket by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr 3D printed 8 tooth sprocket by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr 3D printed 8 tooth sprocket by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Thingiverse link https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2859595 I have a couple other useful ideas for parts, though I want to stay more purist with my models.

It's fine, I kind of expected this to be nearly impossible, though I will see if I can swap out the turntables, and that will solve the steering issue. worst case, I could just have the 1st and 4th axles just steered and suspended. This is only one of the first challenges with this model, the next one will be to fit the motors into the compact hull of this vehicle. This is the rough dimensions of the model, it may be a little large, as the suspension is wider.

The only reason I used the turntables is that they allowed me to place u-joints on either side of the axle, then there is only one stud of space between the u-joints, thus supporting them and making the axle rigid would be easier to do with the turntable. I will see if the solutions you suggested will work. I am only going to need 3-4 studs of travel in the suspension. reference image of the chassis.

I could swap the CV joints out for u-joints, and I think I will try to space the hubs 1/2 a stud from the steering arms. I am trying to keep the suspension around 15 studs wide, otherwise it will be too wide for scale. I have been doing a lot of digital building, as I am currently at college, also I don't have a set of the steering arms. As I want to keep the axles around 3 studs tall, otherwise, it will be too bulky for this vehicle.

I am currently working on an independent, steered, and all wheel drive chassis for a Sd.kfz. 234, an 8x8 armored car. Though I have run into an issue with the steering linkages, due to the method I had to utilize to make the chassis more compact, there are issues with travel in the steering links. Anyone have a good suggestion to solving this problem? current progress on LDD https://www.bricksafe.com/files/Tommy_styrvoky/Sdkfz 234.lxf Lego Sd.kfz. 234 chassis WIP by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Sd.kfz. 234 chassis WIP by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

LDD file for the compact version. https://www.bricksafe.com/files/Tommy_styrvoky/compact dual differential steering.lxf

Yeah your version it should work, I have a smaller design if you just want the steering portion of the mechanism. The design is system based, though it would be easy to convert to studless. Lego Adder/ Subtractor by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Adder/ Subtractor by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Adder/ Subtractor by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

Nice job replicating the sharp angles, of the vehicle it seems to perform rather well with just 4 L motors. maybe for changes, if possible maybe see if you could add the shallow sloping of the rear windows. Also maybe for the grill protector I think it would work better with the 1x4 curved slopes, for the side and middle parts, as it appears from the photo you posted of the original vehicle, the radiator is completely vertical.