Appie

Ah Horace T, that one, don't really see mounting options on that unless I want to mount the tiles on their side, but that is under consideration. I see what you mean. I am not sure how to fix it at the moment, but I will try again at some point.

Thanks, which sloped brick do you exactly mean though? The 2x8's going towards the tail lights? Good point, easily fixed by adding another plate on the top and making the arch ends 1 stud closer to each other. Just tried it, looks better, so thanks. Thanks, but which do you mean? There's only 2 panels left and with neither I see a real problem or I can't think of a better solution at the moment.

Thanks I changed some stuff at the rear section. The rear wheelarch in brick form. 20190808_184503 by Appie NL, on Flickr I quite like it like this. As you can see I also adjusted the rear window behind the backseat door,, so it's less "boxed in" the bodywork. I want to order this part to get some curve in that last silver lining of the window. The whole rear is a little sleeker now due to the new style rear window and the Technic panel behind it being 1 stud inwards on the model. 20190808_184527 by Appie NL, on Flickr I tried removing that Technic panel btw, but the the ideas I had for it (curved slopes gradually dropping 1 or half a stud or just using plates and or tiles wasn't really working for me). So until I get an idea or hear of one, it is staying. One thing I still need to fix, is the sudden 1 stud drop from the doorframe to the rear wheelarch. This is supposed to be one smooth dropped line towards the tail lights. I won't be able to that, but I could try to mount some plate/tiles to get a decent way there if I can get them mounted properly.

I guess you mean the tile edge below the silver flex axle on the hood especially? Yeah, I'd have to rework that to make it work better. On the real car the hood colour is present under the silver lining, but thinner, it blended in blue, but like this it is too pronounced. Thanks, I'll see what I can do about the windscreen to add some curve once I finish the dashboard.

The old 90's Technic motor has 4100 rpm at 9V according to Philo's testing. So maybe? Perhaps like the 90's motor it isn't downgeared internally like modern PF/Control+

Thanks Attika. Another thing I was thinking of was wether I should try to build this in the typical Rolls two-tone or keep it one colour. I couldn't figure out a colour that would work well with dark blue and had the parts available in the right colours, I only considered white an option for the parts available and since the interior would be mostly white and I didn't want to change that, I didn't think that would be a good idea. Then somebody pointed out black to me and I think that could work, what do you guys think of this quick mockup? Go for this or stay with full dark blue? BlueAndBlackMaybe by Appie NL, on Flickr

Thanks (also MxWinters) I am personally not a fan of making WIP topics either, but I do find them refreshing to look at a model differently through the feedback of other people or revisit ideas I dismissed earlier. After building for X months I tend to get tunnel vision and get lost in that. Having a fresh look at stuff people point out helps to break that. In the end I will still do what I feel is best for the model or what I want out of the model and this might go directly against the feedback provided, but if that happens I will have tried to make that feedback work, so don't think any of your feedback is for nothing, I greatly appreciate it. Lego is always about finding that compromise you can live with when building a MOC imo. Take the feedback for the windows for example. The electric windows are a key feature, removal is not an option. This not only affects how the windows look, but also how I make the doorhinges work. Windows have to work while the door is opened and closed, because one or the other would be silly imo. Yes, these are self-imposed rules, but that's my vision. This creates problems, like the gap at the wheelarch, the wheelarch at the rear as a whole. Then how the windows look. I can't have actual windows on the side and not on the windscreen, that would be silly imo (again self-imposed). I am trying to figure out a "window frame" now that doesn't look out of place. Do I move the silver lining of the window (which technically doesn't move in real life) or do I make a window frame below this. If I make it below it and it isn't some type of transparant I think it will look out of place and if I make it transparant, why isn't it a full window then? So actually the windscreen being as it is atm is the compromise for the feature. On the other hand, if I manage windowless, I could also tweak the little window at the backseat door that is fixed to the body and would help with the getting the gap clean in that area. So there is something to gain as well from moving away from windows. Which compromise to settle on? Or the stuff for the rear wheelarch I am now looking at again: I am technically already cheating a stud on the scale that I am allowed to use in that space (door is supertight on the the rear wheel arch in real life), how will I brace another design of the rear wheelarch in the same amount of space, especially if brickbuild? Then there's the doorhinge in that area. In order to have a somewhat smooth sideline, the Technic wheelarch panel actually flexes a wee bit when opening the door the first bit of it (omg illegal? ). So all sorts of stuff to look at again on the model provided by this topic. The stepper works great, I actually adjusted it slightly so the servo always makes a full turn (I sorta broke one once in a little RC car that couldn't make full 90 degrees turns on the servo, made me cautious). As for the belly shot, it will have to wait. I'd rather show it once I have properly placed the structure for that instead of a few beams here and there As for the weight, I actually want to buy a scale for it to see how much, but for a 1:8 Lego car it's heavy. It houses 5 M-motors, 1 servo, 1 Lipo BB, 6 PF switches and 3 PF lights. The brickbuild body adds a good chunk of weight as well, not to mention how dense I tend to build normally with Technic and this chassis is no exception.

I see what you mean. Thanks for the feedback. Due to the function of the electric windows I thought it be cool to have actual windows, but perhaps I should just use a window frame and remove the rest. The "gap filling" I personally don't like as well, especially between the rear wheelarch and the door. I will try to improve that. Not filling it looks worse imo, because you'd look straight into the window mechanism, which I think looks weird when the rest has been closed a little better than that section. I couldn't figure out a system where the doorhinge moved outwards while still keeping a 1 stud wide driveshaft going for the window function in the space I had. Edit: made a picture for you without the filler for yourself to judge. Gap by Appie NL, on Flickr (hmmm, dusty Lego...) I see, the wheelarch at the back felt weird to me too, I kept it because the real thing has that curve inwards as well above the wheel. The front has this too, but less pronounced, which is why I just left it out there. I dismissed the idea of building it in bricks because I thought this was closest to the real car and added bonus of being in one piece, but I will try to work it out. @Good old Lego builder Thanks, the size of the tire is in scale, used Sariel's scale tool (one of the people I forgot to mention) for this, so I guess it's the wheel arches.

I personally don't like a few sections either, but what is it you don't like?

I think a few contests ago it got a little out of hand with how fancy people made these pictures in picture or video's. Photoshopped real set boxarts and/or cool effects in the video's, leaving the people who weren't so good with image/video software feeling left behind/not entering the contest. I think I was one of those people back then My opinion hasn't changed much. The model should be the most important, not how fancy you can make images, but I am not entering, so my opinion doesn't matter on the subject.

You're right, it isn't bending. This honestly surprised me, since the current version of the floor only has some reinforcements in certain spots until I get to work on the bottom of the floor. The triangles at the A and C-pillar seem to handle the weight very well. I think the perception of the nose "aiming towards the sky" is simply because the rear suspension is more compressed than the front in that pic. Which is funny, because the front has 2 hard springs and the rear 3. While the rear axle has more weight to handle, it does usually stand higher than the front. Normally the stance is 2 studs from the ground at the front and stays at that number towards the rear wheels which are at 2studs+1mm. One time compressing the suspension makes it 2 studs at the rear and 1-2mm below 2 studs at the front. My aim is to have it leveled, so if the front drops more I will re-adjust the suspension at the front. A Rolls isn't a sportscar, so they don't really have rake

Weird, just loaded this page on my phone and they seem to work fine. Edit: Changed host of pictures, hope they show for you now.

I am still looking to tweak a few spots (the panel at the rear window is included in this), but mostly it is finished: 20190827_134133 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_134604 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_135244 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_134945 by Appie NL, on Flickr I don't think I mentioned this before, but the "gas" and "break" pedal function as the forward/neutral/reverse for the gearbox. If I did the math right, then the reverse gear ratio is slightly above the ratio of the 2nd, perhaps not very realistic since afaik they are usually around the ratio of the 1st, I couldn't figure out a better ratio in the space I had left for this. 20190827_134741 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_135042 by Appie NL, on Flickr The white levers with silver knobs control the windows and the black one on the dash controls the airconditioning. The lever below the steering wheel is for the lights. My aim was to have the positions for these controls as close to what they would be in a real car. Despite the roof being open, the front window levers are a little hard to reach for my big hands (especially with my left as you will see in the video below). 20190827_153707 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_135520 by Appie NL, on Flickr My attempt to recreate the "star filled heaven" roof lining of the real Phantom. These are "glitter bricks". They only come in weird colours like dark pink until a set of Harry Potter brought these light blues. I considered adding PF lights to this for extra effect, but it didn't have the desired result in terms of lightning and I didn't want to use 3rd party stuff on this build. 20190827_134306 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_134407 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_135313 by Appie NL, on Flickr Behind the back of the trunk is the gearshifter from Attika and some wires. 20190827_140703 by Appie NL, on Flickr Perhaps looks a little bright in this picture, but there's only 2 PF leds per headlight on these. 20190827_140547 by Appie NL, on Flickr And the taillights, 1 PF led each. 20190827_140944 by Appie NL, on Flickr @Attika Here's your desired belly shot I don't have the new wire holders yet from Control+ sets and not sure of these can even hold 2-3 wires in 1, so I made something myself to hold/tunnel/guide the wires. At first I wanted to completely cover up the floor and "hide" the Technic like I mostly did on the rest of the car, but decided to keep it open. And some might notice that I updated the front suspension. When I nearly finished the build it needed an upgrade to 3 hard springs, same number as the rear, since the front suspension was pretty much dead in the old configuration. And a little video to showcase the windows and airconditioning Original opening post below this point: With all the great sportcars on this forum, I felt I had to try a different approach to the "1:8 Lego supercar". Choosing this car also gave me a good excuse to add different kind of functions usually not in these kind of cars. First of all I want to say thanks to a few people on this forum for information, techniques or mechanisms they provided: @Didumos69 and @jb70 for their work on the Chiron gearbox. This model uses their efficiently build Chiron gearbox, I only tweaked it slightly further to make it shorter. Also thanks Didumos and @Erik Leppen for their information on suspension, made it easier to look for how to fix stuff. @Attika for his compact servo based gearbox stepper which I used in this model. @Jeroen Ottens for all sorts of neat techniques and tricks in his DB11. The front mounting of the suspension is very similar to his to get the engine very low like in his DB11. I am sure I forgot a few people, my apologies. So here's the current progress: WIP3Frontside by Appie NL, on Flickr WIP3RearSide by Appie NL, on Flickr WIP3Side by Appie NL, on Flickr The current features are: - 8 speed gearbox - V12 fake engine - Suspension - Electric windows - "Airco" - Lights I think, despite the outer shell being about 70% system bricks and 30% technic, the base of the car is all Technic and that it should belong in this forum and not the scale forum. This is how the car looked in the early stages: WIPRollsPhantomFront2 by Appie NL, on Flickr But if Jim or Milan thinks it should still be in the other forum, I am sure he will move it. The reason for the mostly system outer shell is because I had a hard time making all the little curves with Technic (panels) and I felt those little curves made the difference to try and capture this car. Especially at the front, after that I tried to minimize Technic panel use because it would be a breach of style at that point. Overall I am happy how it turned out so far, some parts I don't like. The windscreen being the biggest offender with how square and flat it looks, but the A-pillars being part of the structural integrity of the model made it hard to come up with something else. Stuff left to do: - Dashboard and midconsole - Front seats - Roof - Mirrors - The bottom 2 studs of the model (under the doors, bottom of front grill and the second layer of the floor to hide wires and provide more rigidity to the model)

Same here, really love this MOC. It looks great and with 2 buggy motors it has the power to back it up. Any chance for a video? I Should read the OP better, sorry

Yeah bothers me as well. Yeah, you can't control more than 2 stacked motors on an IR reciever, but for models where I want to put in 5 motorized functions of which I'd only control 1 or 2 at a time and only have space for 1 battery box it's a huge loss to me. Even worse when that second hub has to be that huge Control+ hub. I hope Lego comes up with a solution for this that doesn't take up too much space. I want to switch to Control+ completely, but for example on one of my current MOCs, I had to use PF instead of waiting for Control+, because of this limitation of 4 slots on 1 hub (I needed 6).

Thanks for extra video :)

That's a very nice way to do this. I couldn't figure out how to do this when I tried a L2 in this scale, but this should work for that too. Thanks for sharing. One thing I don't understand in the video is when you show the V6, the engine cover is open, yet when you drive the car it is closed which makes you see nothing moving in the enginebay...

For your fender problem: perhaps make that a different colour with cheap 14L soft axles and have that colour run from the front to back of the car (so the line under the door in that colour as well). I like it full white, but a little bit of a 2-colour scheme like this wouldn't look bad I think.

@bonox and @teos I think that's the joke desert752 was trying to make, hence his smiley ":)))))"

That's because the bags and boxes are weighted in the factory multiple times in the production line. Missing a entire bag in a box is a substantial weight difference that should trigger alarms, so I am not surprised Lego would find those claims unbelievable. I am not saying it can't happen, but I can't blame them for being skeptical.

After recently buying a Bugatti and building it, I'd like to thank everybody in this topic but especially @jb70 and @Didumos69 for all their work on tweaking this model. Now at least I got an efficient gearbox, front suspension that works and ackermann steering. Much appreciated!

When I got back into Lego I quickly noticed I took 1.5-2x as much time as Sariel's build time in reviews. To this day, that hasn't changed, because I have no desire to rush, during builds I can spend alot of time already "playing" with the model and making sure everything runs smooth (and all pins are ocd aligned).

Exactly, Lipko is being too modest. Much has already been said by the posters above me that I also agree with, so I wish you all the best Lipko and your (soon to be expanded) family.

I tested this type of connection a few days ago before you posted this idea and could rip the cord from the assembly easily. The difference being, I tested it without the fork and mast, you did it with. I like my individual connections strong without a mast and fork to share in the load and I suppose Lego does too, hence it not being in the model.

My guess would be because it isn't firmly locked in place. Applying a mediocre amount of force on the fork might make the rope break free from that half pin. Same goes for @Aventador2004's solution, that pin hole with pins on both ends could turn once force is applied on the fork. Would this happen with normal play? Of course not. Is it a major problem if it does happen? Of course not, easy to fix if it does. Does Lego consider it "legal"? Maybe not.