Appie

I think a few contests ago it got a little out of hand with how fancy people made these pictures in picture or video's. Photoshopped real set boxarts and/or cool effects in the video's, leaving the people who weren't so good with image/video software feeling left behind/not entering the contest. I think I was one of those people back then My opinion hasn't changed much. The model should be the most important, not how fancy you can make images, but I am not entering, so my opinion doesn't matter on the subject.

You're right, it isn't bending. This honestly surprised me, since the current version of the floor only has some reinforcements in certain spots until I get to work on the bottom of the floor. The triangles at the A and C-pillar seem to handle the weight very well. I think the perception of the nose "aiming towards the sky" is simply because the rear suspension is more compressed than the front in that pic. Which is funny, because the front has 2 hard springs and the rear 3. While the rear axle has more weight to handle, it does usually stand higher than the front. Normally the stance is 2 studs from the ground at the front and stays at that number towards the rear wheels which are at 2studs+1mm. One time compressing the suspension makes it 2 studs at the rear and 1-2mm below 2 studs at the front. My aim is to have it leveled, so if the front drops more I will re-adjust the suspension at the front. A Rolls isn't a sportscar, so they don't really have rake

Weird, just loaded this page on my phone and they seem to work fine. Edit: Changed host of pictures, hope they show for you now.

I am still looking to tweak a few spots (the panel at the rear window is included in this), but mostly it is finished: 20190827_134133 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_134604 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_135244 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_134945 by Appie NL, on Flickr I don't think I mentioned this before, but the "gas" and "break" pedal function as the forward/neutral/reverse for the gearbox. If I did the math right, then the reverse gear ratio is slightly above the ratio of the 2nd, perhaps not very realistic since afaik they are usually around the ratio of the 1st, I couldn't figure out a better ratio in the space I had left for this. 20190827_134741 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_135042 by Appie NL, on Flickr The white levers with silver knobs control the windows and the black one on the dash controls the airconditioning. The lever below the steering wheel is for the lights. My aim was to have the positions for these controls as close to what they would be in a real car. Despite the roof being open, the front window levers are a little hard to reach for my big hands (especially with my left as you will see in the video below). 20190827_153707 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_135520 by Appie NL, on Flickr My attempt to recreate the "star filled heaven" roof lining of the real Phantom. These are "glitter bricks". They only come in weird colours like dark pink until a set of Harry Potter brought these light blues. I considered adding PF lights to this for extra effect, but it didn't have the desired result in terms of lightning and I didn't want to use 3rd party stuff on this build. 20190827_134306 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_134407 by Appie NL, on Flickr 20190827_135313 by Appie NL, on Flickr Behind the back of the trunk is the gearshifter from Attika and some wires. 20190827_140703 by Appie NL, on Flickr Perhaps looks a little bright in this picture, but there's only 2 PF leds per headlight on these. 20190827_140547 by Appie NL, on Flickr And the taillights, 1 PF led each. 20190827_140944 by Appie NL, on Flickr @Attika Here's your desired belly shot I don't have the new wire holders yet from Control+ sets and not sure of these can even hold 2-3 wires in 1, so I made something myself to hold/tunnel/guide the wires. At first I wanted to completely cover up the floor and "hide" the Technic like I mostly did on the rest of the car, but decided to keep it open. And some might notice that I updated the front suspension. When I nearly finished the build it needed an upgrade to 3 hard springs, same number as the rear, since the front suspension was pretty much dead in the old configuration. And a little video to showcase the windows and airconditioning Original opening post below this point: With all the great sportcars on this forum, I felt I had to try a different approach to the "1:8 Lego supercar". Choosing this car also gave me a good excuse to add different kind of functions usually not in these kind of cars. First of all I want to say thanks to a few people on this forum for information, techniques or mechanisms they provided: @Didumos69 and @jb70 for their work on the Chiron gearbox. This model uses their efficiently build Chiron gearbox, I only tweaked it slightly further to make it shorter. Also thanks Didumos and @Erik Leppen for their information on suspension, made it easier to look for how to fix stuff. @Attika for his compact servo based gearbox stepper which I used in this model. @Jeroen Ottens for all sorts of neat techniques and tricks in his DB11. The front mounting of the suspension is very similar to his to get the engine very low like in his DB11. I am sure I forgot a few people, my apologies. So here's the current progress: WIP3Frontside by Appie NL, on Flickr WIP3RearSide by Appie NL, on Flickr WIP3Side by Appie NL, on Flickr The current features are: - 8 speed gearbox - V12 fake engine - Suspension - Electric windows - "Airco" - Lights I think, despite the outer shell being about 70% system bricks and 30% technic, the base of the car is all Technic and that it should belong in this forum and not the scale forum. This is how the car looked in the early stages: WIPRollsPhantomFront2 by Appie NL, on Flickr But if Jim or Milan thinks it should still be in the other forum, I am sure he will move it. The reason for the mostly system outer shell is because I had a hard time making all the little curves with Technic (panels) and I felt those little curves made the difference to try and capture this car. Especially at the front, after that I tried to minimize Technic panel use because it would be a breach of style at that point. Overall I am happy how it turned out so far, some parts I don't like. The windscreen being the biggest offender with how square and flat it looks, but the A-pillars being part of the structural integrity of the model made it hard to come up with something else. Stuff left to do: - Dashboard and midconsole - Front seats - Roof - Mirrors - The bottom 2 studs of the model (under the doors, bottom of front grill and the second layer of the floor to hide wires and provide more rigidity to the model)

Same here, really love this MOC. It looks great and with 2 buggy motors it has the power to back it up. Any chance for a video? I Should read the OP better, sorry

Yeah bothers me as well. Yeah, you can't control more than 2 stacked motors on an IR reciever, but for models where I want to put in 5 motorized functions of which I'd only control 1 or 2 at a time and only have space for 1 battery box it's a huge loss to me. Even worse when that second hub has to be that huge Control+ hub. I hope Lego comes up with a solution for this that doesn't take up too much space. I want to switch to Control+ completely, but for example on one of my current MOCs, I had to use PF instead of waiting for Control+, because of this limitation of 4 slots on 1 hub (I needed 6).

Thanks for extra video :)

That's a very nice way to do this. I couldn't figure out how to do this when I tried a L2 in this scale, but this should work for that too. Thanks for sharing. One thing I don't understand in the video is when you show the V6, the engine cover is open, yet when you drive the car it is closed which makes you see nothing moving in the enginebay...

For your fender problem: perhaps make that a different colour with cheap 14L soft axles and have that colour run from the front to back of the car (so the line under the door in that colour as well). I like it full white, but a little bit of a 2-colour scheme like this wouldn't look bad I think.

@bonox and @teos I think that's the joke desert752 was trying to make, hence his smiley ":)))))"

That's because the bags and boxes are weighted in the factory multiple times in the production line. Missing a entire bag in a box is a substantial weight difference that should trigger alarms, so I am not surprised Lego would find those claims unbelievable. I am not saying it can't happen, but I can't blame them for being skeptical.

After recently buying a Bugatti and building it, I'd like to thank everybody in this topic but especially @jb70 and @Didumos69 for all their work on tweaking this model. Now at least I got an efficient gearbox, front suspension that works and ackermann steering. Much appreciated!

When I got back into Lego I quickly noticed I took 1.5-2x as much time as Sariel's build time in reviews. To this day, that hasn't changed, because I have no desire to rush, during builds I can spend alot of time already "playing" with the model and making sure everything runs smooth (and all pins are ocd aligned).

Exactly, Lipko is being too modest. Much has already been said by the posters above me that I also agree with, so I wish you all the best Lipko and your (soon to be expanded) family.

I tested this type of connection a few days ago before you posted this idea and could rip the cord from the assembly easily. The difference being, I tested it without the fork and mast, you did it with. I like my individual connections strong without a mast and fork to share in the load and I suppose Lego does too, hence it not being in the model.

My guess would be because it isn't firmly locked in place. Applying a mediocre amount of force on the fork might make the rope break free from that half pin. Same goes for @Aventador2004's solution, that pin hole with pins on both ends could turn once force is applied on the fork. Would this happen with normal play? Of course not. Is it a major problem if it does happen? Of course not, easy to fix if it does. Does Lego consider it "legal"? Maybe not.

Not to derail this topic about a great looking start of a crane into something else, but: Actually, no argument here, totally agree. Big MOC's have alot more things that come into play than little ones (and you already mentioned quite a few).

I am willing to bet the 6x AA Powered Up battery box will have more than 2 inputs, most likely 4. To accomendate any current Technic set motor set up (since they never went beyond 2 IR recievers). MOCs that need more are in for a bad time, but perhaps Lego surprises us with 6 inputs or some sort of extension wire that allows multiple wires plugged in. We'll see.

I wish I saw this topic sooner @Cumulonimbus already did most of the work I spend a bit of time on to tinker on my own (funny to see the same solutions though). Big thanks to @M_longer for the LDD! The pieces on the left are what I removed and couldn't re-use. It's about 20 parts more than the original model. Internally these few things changed: - I also routed the steering to the light beacon on top and fixed the inverted steering issue. - Based on the review from Sariel I geared up the lifting of the fork and is now placed on the left side (right side is still tilt). - Also based on that review I added a friction axle pin to the tilt mechanism. I tried to keep most of the model as close to the original as possible while fixing these things. LDD originally made by M_Longer here (modified) Exactly why I felt compelled to mod it

Seriously! Great B-model and the A-model looks very nice too imo. Thanks for the video @kbalage

This looks very promising. Some very nice mechanics. I personally don't like the restraints per 3 seats, but understand the design choice. PF switches are 7 bucks @ Lego, bricklink probably won't be cheaper. I wouldn't do RC, but perhaps 2 motors or a gearbox switching between your 3 arms functions and the restraints/entrance-exit mechanism with 1 motor? Have the arms follow a fixed routine of motions and then the ride ends. I think that's how they work in real life? One press of a button and the operator goes afk Queue the restraints/entrance mechanism at that point and done?

You're welcome, enjoy

So here is the LDD For some reason the rear left corner got misaligned somewhere which caused parts to "not fit" while it should perfectly fit and isn't anything out of the ordinary while building with Lego. I colour coded these parts to dark azure, the way they are supposed to be placed is easy to figure out I think based on photo's in this topic. The 24T gear in front of the LDD model goes on the axle of the camshaft parts towards the 8T gear. The 3x11 curved panels won't all fit in LDD for some weird reason that I don't want to waste time on since it's pretty easy to figure out how to mount those anyway. The rubber band in front of the model in the LDD is to be mounted here: In order to get proper movement, aligning the gears to this starting position should make for a smooth operation: As you can see: keep a little more than 1 stud free on the axle in the red box and angle the face of the banana all the way to the left. In the bottom it will look like this: The red arrow shows the position of the gearrack if you aligned the axle in the red box of the previous picture properly. The yellow arrow indicates the angle required of the camshaft pieces for the movement. If you got any more questions, feel free to ask, if not: happy building maybe?

No, making the LDD is already time I don't have, not making a video for a mod I don't like.

Sure, there's one speed up left with minimal effort in the same space: 2x24T gear where there's 12T and 36T now visible in the bottom shot. I personally don't like it that fast since this is already as fast as I like it. Faster and it would be barely visible in the arm movement (it's close to this now already). And I don't think it is out of sync with the tune, it just isn't as hyper on the highspeed beat like the original, but flows fine with the tune overall imo. Version 1.0 had a 8T and 40T at first that felt way too slow and out of tune, so quickly went to 12-36. Then I also speed up some gears inside in version 2 for up and down movement from 20-12 to 24-8 (though this was more a happy side effect of wanting the banana to dip deeper with the new lever setup). So not much to be gained there in the available space anymore either. Edit: Just gave it a whirl with 2x24T in place of the 12-36. It's alot faster, but not really in a good way imo. The arm movement is severly limited, due to the mechanism already being on the way back before your eyes notice (or perhaps even the mechanism itself can get to) a full extention. Also the M-motor seems to be pushing its limit with this in terms of torgue. Once the LDD is finished, feel free to try it yourself. The 24T have plenty of room to be placed, but the liftarm I got in place across the 12T-36T in the bottom shot will need to be moved so the gears don't run from their respective axles (mainly an issue for the 36T one).