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Appie

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by Appie

  1. So, going by @Didumos69 gearbox images and how it works, it's basically a 4-speed gearbox with a low/high selector added to that, just like the DB11. Perhaps it is possible to remove 1 driving ring on the high/low side if it's possible to make a 180 degree turn instead of 90 on that axle? Less gears, less friction, happier drivetrain? Added bonus could be like in the DB11: can't switch over from 8 to 1 (at least according to brickset review that's also a thing on the Chiron). Or more simple: just keep the 2 driving rings, but remove half of the gears so that one of each output remains and with this added free space add a gearblock 2L liftarm with axle and pinhole like the mod for the Porsche (assuming there's space around that now free space on the Chiron) so you can't go 8>1. Could that work?
  2. As the DB11 from Jeroen Ottens also has 2 clutches always engaged and a DNR stick, the only difference is a V12 and this W16. The DB11 runs smooth, so mainly fixing the friction issue in the W16 (from 3 to 1 crankshaft?) and perhaps a few gearbox tweaks (is this free from idler gears on axles turning the other way?) might be enough to make it smooth?
  3. Ok, but like I said I will wait for more reviews, because I searched YouTube earlier and found this video which seems to have normal travel at the front (while being slightly compressed in default position). It starts at the 10:15secs mark in the video: Bad angle on the camera I know, but it does spring back every time and doesn't stay on the floor like in Sariel's video. And while Sariel is great builder that does things far beyond me, I have seen reviews of him where he had issues that I didn't have during my build of the same sets.
  4. So that's where they put the 24T white clutch gear eh? Just between the fake engine and the DNR? I am glad it isn't in the gearbox, but this still feels kind of weird.
  5. Ok, just tested with mine as well which has been on the shelf for over a year, just sitting there and the suspension is still working fine. Perhaps I got a lucky few good springs in my Porsche or maybe it is because I didn't heavily mod my Porsche (basically most things from the basic errata). So I got no HOGs or other cool "pimped features" adding weight on the model/front. Ok setlle down, as I mentioned above this is one of the few problems I didn't have with the Porsche and didn't like the modded solution one bit (too much ground clearance for a race car and iirc, different rake). However after seeing the full video from Sariel, I agree that it is a problem for the Chiron, but even Sariel points out it might be a building error. So until I see more reviews mentioning the same issue I want to reserve judgement on this point.
  6. The suspension in the video still has some travel left after being compressed and not returning to its first resting height. Still nothing major imo. It's a problem to me when the scenario happens from @Meatman where his suspension drags on the ground, resulting in zero travel.
  7. Unless it is left with zero suspension travel after the sagging, then it is exactly how normal real suspension works, so I don't see the problem. This is one of the things I didn't "fix" on my Porsche either.
  8. I think this will become true or something close to this. Perhaps the new Technic motors come with their own port to plug in another motor. The reason I think they might do this, is because the 90's 9V system ran on 2 wires. So perhaps those 2 extra wires are for hooking up 2 motors with only one connector going towards the BB.
  9. Looks like it will be for a 90 degree limiter. The #2 connector there from one of the early leaks was already a big hint I think that your system would be used here in some form, because they use that white 3L axle connector also used in gearboxes if they "just" want to bridge 3L nowadays. As for the blue gear diff brace only at the rear: perhaps it's for the lack of central diff and this is how they compensate for that perhaps combined with the 24T white clutch at the front axle? Room for a 1L "fake diff" better to manage than 3-4L real diff could be their logic? I don't believe in the free part option. Somebody leak an image already where that white clutch is in the model Seriously though, if this is in the gearbox/main drive line (where I don't consider the front wheel drive as main if it is used as fake central diff) it will lose alot of points for me, just like the Porsche and the first thing to get fixed.
  10. Come to think of it, this has to have speed control. If it's full power or off as only options, then it is very easy to throw a train off the track in a normal Lego trackcorner with a normal Lego set train (speaking from experience ). Would be weird I think for a train set's remote.
  11. Thanks for the info. A pity the turning of the dials isn't the incremental speed control. That's what I expected when I first saw the remote.
  12. Ok, but why only brace the one in the rear? (for your first option)
  13. Looking at one of the images of the front axle, a blue clutch gear can't be mounted there (diff locked into a "fits only 1-way" position in 5x7 frame by a 1L white liftarm). So on the rear it might actually serve a purpose?
  14. Nah, went behind the wheel in the removed video.
  15. Related to your gearbox reliability question is the most important question to me: do all the functions work out of the box? The 24T white clutch gear in the part list has me scared.
  16. I don't know if this has been mentioned yet in this topic, but Edit: (cut, @Bublehead already mentioned it)
  17. Like I said, I am not expecting mind blowing functions, so I am not sure why you quoted me or what your post adds in general. My expectations are superlow for this set. I expect nothing more than a gearbox wrapped in Bugatti. However, what I do expect is that, unlike the Porsche, this gearbox works out of the box. Anything else it does will have me pleasantly surprised (like the new gearbox parts).
  18. After the Porsche, I'd be happy if the functions that are there at least work "out of the box" But I agree, it should be more than that, but I am not counting on it to be more than that. Even the rear spoiler that is up in 1 image and down in the next might work like the one on the Porsche, which I wouldn't consider a "function". If it is linked to the gearbox like @Jeroen Ottens DB11 spoiler, then cool.
  19. I have edited my post before you posted this, but yes it would. At the front brakedisc you can see a system part going behind it. Something similar will probably be used at the rear.
  20. Yeah, we know it is the front wheel, which is why it will be exactly mounted the same way. There appaer to be 2-4 studs on the brakedisc part there for system bricks as can be seen on the front wheel image. Edit: If there are studs on the brakedisc that would mean they would spin with the wheels (brainfart XD), so ya looking closer the front one is clicked into a system part that is behind the hub and placed over the brakedisc.
  21. Yes there is, see the rear side of the box image.
  22. Isn't the compatibility issues with M-motors only when you put more than 1 on a channel? Meanwhile I notice a difference in performance from M (using 1) to XL between using a V1 reciever or a V2 as mentioned before by me and others in this topic. So the difference doesn't only show on 2x L motor. So the question is more: how many times do you use 2 M-motors on 1 channel? For every other instance the V2 is the better choice imo.
  23. Weird choice of words. Personally having a V1 as only option would be my bad dream. 8 out of 10 cases the V2 is simply better to use for the stuff I want to use an IR receiver for.
  24. My 8043 was made by TLG in 2012 (checked via LA's to see if the set I just bought didn't have the old version LA's) and also has 2 V2 IR recievers out of the box. They worked fine with the 4 motors. As for the mention that a V1 can handle 2L's and 1 servo, I remember testing this about 5 years ago and while it did work perfectly fine you could notice a difference in rpm and torgue. I also noticed such a difference when building Sheepo's Wrangler and swapped the IR reciever V1 for the XL and M with a V2 and the drive (XL) became alot better/faster.
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